Son has a 2004 Hyundai Santa Fe 2.7 motor. The timing belt broke before we could replace it. Long story short, 24 valves, gaskets, timing belt, water pump, new belt tensioner and new pulleys. The motor is back together. The only problem is when you turn the ignition switch on, it blows the CPU fuse. The only electrical part we replaced was the purge valve.
View 3 RepliesLooks like my timing belt broke. I was taking my car out of the parking lot, and heard the warning chime. I tried to look at the warning light, I think it was the malfunction one. I heard a belt/ fan snap. The engine stalled and I dint try to resart the engine. I had it towed to the dealership and am waiting to hear from them. The engine dint make mucg of a noise but sorta just died. Does this sound like a timing belt? I am worried abt the damage. how much would it cost if it was a timing belt? my car only had 73k miles on it. It is a 2001.5 1.8t.
View 5 RepliesI recently replaced timing belt and balance belt on my 2004 santa fe 2.4l and now the engine runs like crap and shakes badly. I went over all timing marks again and again and I am at a loss.
View 9 RepliesI have a 2004 Hyundai Sante Fe 2.4L that keeps blowing the ECU fuse under the hood when the ignition is turned on. We have replace the fuel pump and the inertia switch. I have tested the relay, ignition failure sensor, both coils and O2 sensor wiring.
View 10 Replies1998 Mazda B2500. Timing belt broke while driving. How likely is it that my valves are warped & how do I fix it?
View 11 RepliesI just installed a new timing belt, balance belt, idler, and both tensioner pulleys but am getting a little whine. I adjusted the balance belt but the noise does not change. No other belts or items are hooked up yet this was a dry run. Car seems to run fine and idles well. The hydraulic unit seems to be working fine and it's a OEM Hyundai piece.
Anything common I can look for that should stand out? 2002 Santa Fe 2.4L
I have 130K miles on my Santa Fe. I just replaced the timing belt without the water pump being replaced. Picked it up from the mechanic and the check engine light was on and it was idling very rough. Left it there for him to recheck. He said maybe he didn't plug in the Cam Sensor all the way or at all. Next day he called me and said that the cam sensor was bad and he replaced it for free. Picked up the vehicle and the idle was a little rough but got worse on the ride home.
View 1 RepliesMy 2003 Sante Fe has developed a rattling sound in the engine. The oil level has been good. I took it to a dealer for diagnoses and they told me that the engine was gunked up and the timing "chain" tensioner couldn't move to keep it tight and it was rattling. They put some engine cleaner in and changed the oil and wanted me back in 500 to clean it again. I did that again, but the rattle is still there. It gets a little quieter after I have driven it for a while.
My question is doesn't the Sante Fe have a timing belt? If that is the case what do you think the rattle is?
I have a 2004 Lariat 4x4 with a no start condition. I had lights, but it wouldn't crank. I then discovered that it would not shift out of park. Turns out that it had a blown fuse. I did not have any of that type (the funky square 20a fuses) so I pulled the heated seats fuse (30a) and threw it in there, tried to start it and blew it right away. Is there a common short to look for on these? I believe that the guy that owned it before me had a satellite radio in it, and could it be a bare wire from that setup possibly blowing the fuse?Just trying to get a head start on tracking down the short.
View 14 RepliesIn the process of rebuilding a 2007 Accent where the timing belt broke while idling.
Pulled the head, ran a "water test" on the valves (put spark plug in, pour water on the valves and see if it comes out the exhaust/intake side) and found that only 2 intake valves were belt. Also shut off all the lights in a pitch black room, shined a flashlight in the intake/exhaust and didn't see any light leak from any of the cylinders except the one with the 2 bent valves.
Does this make sense? I would assume since 2 cylinders are always TDC at once, at least 4 valves would be bent.
Lastly, before rebuild I'll be replacing the 2 intake valves, all the valve stem seals, intake manifold gasket, exhaust manifold gasket, head gasket, head bolts and valve cover gasket. Anything else I should replace on the head? Trying to keep costs down as much as possible.
To add: Pistons have no damage on them, there are no marks of the valves hitting the pistons. The timing belt was replaced after it broke and the engine still ran however it ran rough. Compression test was done on only cylinder 1&2, 1 had 60 PSI and 2 had 0 PSI. Compression test was also done by just rotating the crank with a socket since I already had some of the engine disassembled.
I am working with Honda dealership management because I had my timing belt changed at 102,000 miles and 25,000 miles later The belt broke and frayed while driving in heavy traffic at night on freeway leaving me stranded in the median luckily instead of in the middle of the freeway. Honda dealership stating that the idle tension pulley caused the fraying of the belt not due to poor workmanship by their mechanics. I am asking dealership to consider assisting in payment because the day the belt went out, the car had been serviced for a oil change.
When I was called to be notified the job was complete I asked the service rep questions about the oil transmission and told him there was a noise in the engine could they check it or did they check it which she replied no that I would have to make another appointment for that. So even if I would've made appointment the next day the damage was already done because that night is when the belt broke Is this part of Hondas responsibility is it reasonable for them to take part responsibility. Also if the idol tension pulley had been changed at the same time of the belt, it would've saved my engine. So this is all my responsibility not theirs?
I've been having a "turn off" problem with my 03 santa fe. After driving it doesn't want to shut off. The switch will be in the off position and it just keeps running. When I put it in Reverse or drive and then turn the switch off it stops. But which should I look at first? The ignition cylinder/key replacement or maybe something in the ignition switch/electrical? The cylinder assembly is over a hundred $$ and the switch is only $25.
View 3 RepliesSo i just spent over $1700 at a vw service ctr having a sched 140k timing belt replaced with thermo and fuel filter. This was 3 days ago and when i picked it up it was slower to turn over then got worse and todsy it won't turn over at all even when jumped. It cranks and blows black smoke. Problem is i'm 160 miles from that svc center and it's sunday. There is a vw svc center 14 miles away but i feel like it needs to ho back to where the work was done because it ran great before taking it there.
View 5 RepliesI have a 92 st, all stock. It was given to me by a friend that moved. The car was in very good shape before sitting for about two months (I had to go pick it up an hr and a half away, then replace the battery and starter).
The only issue it's had is the heater fan control will blow the circuit when turned on, which will kill my gauges, not to mention no fan. I removed the blower fan and bench tested it, seems fine. And with the fan unplugged, I can turn the switch on without blowing the fuse (it's possible that this plug is the only wiring from that switch, not sure).
My question is, is it possible this switch is short circuited and that's what is causing the fuse to blow? And is it possible this switch could be the source of my battery drain?
I was thinking maybe this was an ongoing thing, because the switch hasn't worked in a year and a half, before I got it. Perhaps this was draining the battery, but wasn't showing up because the car was being driven daily. I'm not sure what to do next but don't want to guess and start buying parts.
97 F150 4.2 auto with Simple trans pan gasket change because it was leaking and now the ignition fuse blows every time I turn the key to the on position. Ran fine before now what? can't pull code with reader with key on or off.
View 4 RepliesWe have a IGN 50 amp Fusible link that keeps popping out!! If I pull it out and put it back in the car will start for about 5 seconds till the fusible link let's go then it dies!! Pull it back out and replace it, it will restart for 5 seconds again!! I unplugged about everything under the hood and still pops the fuse!! Replaced the CPU and does the same thing!! Can't hear the file pump running so I unplugged it and if you unplug the IGN 50 link, then replace I only get 4.7 volts to the pump but the link still let's go after about 5 seconds!!
View 28 RepliesA friends car broke down. He has a 1990 ford escort. It would turn over, but would not crank. I took a look at it and the timing belt was off. Replaced it today, and the car is still turning over but not cranking. The timing is set right, its getting gas, and its getting fire. What else could be causing it to turn over but not crank?
View 19 Replies2007 Santa Fe GLS 2.7 V6. T belt replaced by dealer at 62K. Noticed engine vibration when picked up vehicle. RPM is steady, engine runs smooth, no error codes, no strange noises. Mechanic who did the work confirmed vibration problem and recommended bringing it back - had no answer on the cause but mentioned lose motor mounts which I doubt - the car ran perfect until the dealer did the work.
View 3 RepliesI have a 2009 Sante Fe with 60,258 miles. I had the timing belt changed at 60,000 miles at the dealer. I now have a check engine light that shows the following two codes.
P0321
P0612
These codes are related to a timing belt change? Could a sensor have been removed for the work and not replaced correctly?
Got a 2001 F150 XLT 4x4,4.6L, When you start the vehicle it seems to run a little rough you can drive around with it OK. Soon as you put it in reverse,It starts to really run rough..touch the gas pedal and fuse position #30 blows.
This fuse is for : Passive Anti theft Transceiver, Cluster Ignition Coils, Powertrain Control Module, Relay Coil on Plugs, Radio noise Capacitor, ECC Diode.
I have checked cables and connections, all seem ok...Relays are fine. Nothing seems burnt on the cable running from the engine to the exhaust. I don't see any wire breakage in the tilt Column.
Cant find a short if it is one.. Even removed the aftermarket Remote starter from the circuit ... still blowing that darn fuse.... What to check now, or what it could be?
Ok, so I'm working on a 2004 Hyundai Santa Fe, 93,000 miles. The vehicle runs great! So great that you cant get it to stop running!! The problem is intermittent and generally happens after the vehicle has been running for at least 3 minutes. I turn the key off and she keeps on running (not dieseling, but running at 340-450 rpms!) I have already removed the aftermarket remote start that was installed on the vehicle thinking that was the problem, it was not. Then I went to the ignition switch and unplugged that, also to no avail! I plugged my scan tool in and can communicate with the computer and view pids while the key is on. When I turn the key off, I should loose communication. When everything acting normal and the car actually shuts off with the key, I loose communication with the computer upon turning the key off. When I turn the key off and the veh. keeps running, I do NOT loose communication with the pcm. The only way to shut the car off is to step on the gas pedal. Otherwise it'll run at 400 or so RPM for an hour or so!!
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