Santa FE SM (2001-06) :: 2004 Stays Running After Ignition Is Turned Off?
Nov 5, 2008
Ok, so I'm working on a 2004 Hyundai Santa Fe, 93,000 miles. The vehicle runs great! So great that you cant get it to stop running!! The problem is intermittent and generally happens after the vehicle has been running for at least 3 minutes. I turn the key off and she keeps on running (not dieseling, but running at 340-450 rpms!) I have already removed the aftermarket remote start that was installed on the vehicle thinking that was the problem, it was not. Then I went to the ignition switch and unplugged that, also to no avail! I plugged my scan tool in and can communicate with the computer and view pids while the key is on. When I turn the key off, I should loose communication. When everything acting normal and the car actually shuts off with the key, I loose communication with the computer upon turning the key off. When I turn the key off and the veh. keeps running, I do NOT loose communication with the pcm. The only way to shut the car off is to step on the gas pedal. Otherwise it'll run at 400 or so RPM for an hour or so!!
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I have a 2004 Hyundai Sante Fe 2.4L that keeps blowing the ECU fuse under the hood when the ignition is turned on. We have replace the fuel pump and the inertia switch. I have tested the relay, ignition failure sensor, both coils and O2 sensor wiring.
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I have a 2002 Santa fe that will not stop running. When the key is turned off the engine keeps running like normal. I changed the ignition switch yesterday. still have same problem.
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My 1999 GMC Sonoma has a occaisonal problem--the tail lights stay lit after the light switch and the ignition are turned off. The brake pedal does not appear to be sticking. The cure has been to remove both light bulbs, wait a few minutes, plug them back in, and all is well. This might happen an average of once a month, seems more common in hot weather.
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I have an 04 Hyundai Santa Fe 3.5L V6 AWD with climate control. All other trucks this year I've only seen with manual HVAC controls. My blower motor is constantly running anytime the key is turned on. It feels like it is blowing 3/4 strong all the time and I can turn it up, what feels like one setting higher. Even if the climate control is turned off it keeps blowing. I can control the temp and AC and defroster, I just cannot control the actual airflow pressure from the vents. On an older car this seems like a resistor issue. Is this a common issue? If so, what can I do to try to rectify this?
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This started today, when I turn off the ignition and remove the key the radio stays on and the steering column does not lock. The guy at the dealership suggested spraying wd 40 into the ignition. No go.
2008 sonata.
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I have a 2004 SF/2.4 I4. When the car warms up, the ignition coil sparks between the rubber boot and the coil itself, drawing the spark from the plug and resulting in a misfire. This is especially apparent when the A/C is running and the car is idle-ing, resulting in the A/C turning off and a rough jumping idle. Once the car is running this is not noticeable and the A/C turns on.
I have changed the spark plugs to new autolite plugs, and the situation disappeared for a day, but now it is back. I ordered OEM NGK Laser Iridium plugs, I hope they will fix the situation. Why would the A/C matter? Next on the list will be the ignition coil and wire change, but I hope to avoid that.
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Came out of my house and my 04 Sante Fe will not stay running. It worked fine on the way home form work won't stay started now. You can give it gas and everything but it just dies out after a few moments. I checked most of the basics...
-Fuel pump runs when key is on
-Added gas, over 1/4 tank
-Checked engine fuses
-removed air filters and hoses
-removed mass air intake unit
-down to throttle body and such,
-to keep running by spraying gas directly into engine?
-removed fuel pump under seat
-checked mesh filter and connections
-clean no build up no visual problems with pump or filter
-checked cut off switch, not activated
-removed gas line from injector rail getting good "squirting" from rail
I have asked everyone and most think it is some kind of sensor but I have no light on and I have put it on the OBII and no error codes are found unless I un plug one of the many sensors, which i have done to a few to check them (air mass intake).
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Son has a 2004 Hyundai Santa Fe 2.7 motor. The timing belt broke before we could replace it. Long story short, 24 valves, gaskets, timing belt, water pump, new belt tensioner and new pulleys. The motor is back together. The only problem is when you turn the ignition switch on, it blows the CPU fuse. The only electrical part we replaced was the purge valve.
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2004 Santa fe. Having issues with RPM running high. When car is started, RPM sits at 1500 for a few mins, then drops to 500. Seems to be having issues either getting into gear or staying. At any mph, car seems to surge and not feel like it's getting either gas or power. While on cruise at 55+ mph, car will also surge with RPM dropping 500, then kicking back in. This goes on every few seconds up to random times.
Had it looked at this past weekend at a dealer, and of course it didn't do it one time, after doing it for a half hour prior on the interstate. Tech found no error codes when he checked it as well. Car was fine for an additional 300 miles, then it started again out of the blue. Pulled out at a red light and I though I was going to stall.
Just got laid off so I'm trying to eliminate before putting a lot of money into it if I don't have to. 132,000 miles.
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For about 3 years, our SF (about 125,000 miles) has experienced the whirring/whining upon acceleration whenever the AC was running. I didn't do anything about this as the AC still worked well.
Just a few days ago, while running the AC for a "recharge" during our recent cooler weather, I realized that the AC was not cooling below outside ambient temperature, nor was the whirring present any more. I assume that the compressor finally seized. (?)
To keep repair costs low, and based upon the description above, where should I begin to look to see where the problem lies? Is it most likely a seized compressor/clutch? I am unsure if this is the issue, since even when driving with the AC turned to "Max", I now notice NO detrimental effects upon the engine/power output, which makes me wonder if the compressor actually seized. Wouldn't a seized compressor actually be very hard for the belt to turn, or possibly burn the belt?
I know the compressors and AC systems on these cars are notorious for dying too soon...
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For about a year now my 04 santa fe whines after running for a long ride. We can never get it to do it to bring to dealership to have them look at since it only does it after long rides. We have had the power steering and transmission flushed and that worked a little while during the fall and winter but now that the weather is getting warmer it started again. What this could be?
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01 Elantra, once warmed up to running temp starts to run like a pig & wont idle, has new plugs/leads.
Funny thing is there is no engine check light, in fact it doesn't even come on for the 6 seconds when the ignition is first turned on at all.
Secondly I have OBD2/ELM327 with scanpro but it doesn't connect to the ECU.
We put it into a shop & they claim they were able to connect to ecu but gave no codes which I find a bit strange.
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I recently replaced timing belt and balance belt on my 2004 santa fe 2.4l and now the engine runs like crap and shakes badly. I went over all timing marks again and again and I am at a loss.
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I have a 2004 Elantra GT, and for the past year it sometimes makes no attempt to start when the ignition key is turned. All the dashboard lights, radio, bells and whistles are fine, but once the key is turned to start nothing happens. There are no clicks or anything. Some dashboard lights stay on and I can hear the initial whirring under the hood from the electrical system.
I've replaced the battery, ignition wires, and plugs. This will happen very erratically. Then all of a sudden it will fire up like nothing was wrong. This is always over a several minute time span of trying and retrying to start. I took it to a mechanic but we can never replicate the problem while there.
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I have a 2001 BMW 330i. The car has been a dream since the beggining but lately issues have risen to the surface. Today, when I turned off the ignition all the dashboard lights remained on. The keys in hand, lights off, nothing else on, but the dashboard was lit up light a christmas party. I recently recharged my battery, a problem, I think, caused by the cold temperatures. Other than that I have not noticed anything wrong ..
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We have a 2004 2.4L 4 cyl Santa Fe. Turn ignition key get a click and engine will not turn over. Push key in harder and engine may start fine. If it is the key ignition switch or something else. is there somewhere I can look to see how to remove the ignition switch?
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2004 Santa fe- air bag light stays on-
Any trouble shooting protocol to follow?
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2003 Santa Fe, 2.7L V6
When placed into Drive, the transaxle (and indicator lights) behave as though the gear selector was in the manual gate and at 1st gear. It seems that no matter what I do (wiggle the selector, disconnect the battery, etc) will bring it out of 1st gear while in D. This issue first occurred about a month ago and it somehow corrected itself. I had hoped that it was a fluke, but it is happening again. Initially, I suspected that it might be a switch or something within the gear selector lever housing in the console, but I've done a bit of searching the webs and it looks like it may be more of a sensor(s) issue.
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2001 Ford Taurus 3.0 DOHC. Starting Problem. When the door is opened the interior lights come on, door dings, etc. As soon as the ignition is turned everything goes black all power is lost. Disconnect battery cable and reconnect, the open door again and the interior lights come on, door dings, insert key and turn, everything goes black, the car does not start. This cycle repeats over and over again every time the battery is disconnected and reconnected. I have replaced the battery, ignition switch. The starter was replaced last year. Why does power blackout, and car not start when the key is turned?
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My wife's 2001 Gran Prix has a problem with the ignition switch, or related to the ignition switch. Intermittently (more frequently in warm weather or when the car's warm) the ignition switch can't be turned back to the 'off' position all the way, meaning the key can't be removed from the switch. We've heard from several mechanics that there are a couple problems that can cause this, and in fact had the ignition switch replaced which did not solve the problem. I understand there is a connection to the transmission or gear shift lever that may also be part of this problem in some way. There can only be so many solenoids, switches, connections, etc, related to this, I'd like to fix the problem and avoid spending money unnecessarily.
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