Santa FE SM (2001-06) :: 2004 - Speedometer Is Acting Erratic Most Of The Time
Mar 28, 2015
My 2004 Santa fe speedometer is acting erratic almost all of the time , sometimes it works right. I have replaced on sensor that is easy to get too, right below the air filter and the other is below the cable, but the hard part is that in order to remove the 2 bolts holding the cable in place part of the frame or steering apparatus is partially blocking the bolt where a socket will not fit over...
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I have a 2004 Hyundai Santa Fe with a 2.7 4wd. It has started fluctuating the rpm's and is shifting erratically. I have seen on here that it is possibly the TPS. Does the same in manual or auto.
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Daughter's 2001 Santa Fe Delta V-6 2.5 engine, needed lower ball joints. Replaced the entire lower arms as more cost effective & actually a bit less work, for me anyway.
So While under it, see oil dripping down back of engine. Decided to replace valve cover gaskets. So I start to disconnect all the involved connectors, brackets etc to pull the Upper air intake to get to the rear cover.
While moving around, find most of the hoses & vac lines baked brittle and dried out and loose even tho clamped, so I replace all of those, plus the PCV valve., & the upper & lower radiator hoses as well. I only removed the upper 1/2 of the intake. I change out the cover gaskets, reassemble every thing, reconnect all the connectors. I noticed that some of the connectors could apparently be switched to other sensors, but since all the lines seemed so backed solid, they actually retained their positions to go back onto the proper sensors.(at least I hoped so & it seemed that way).
Anyway, every thing back together & tightened up, so I start it up & the idle is at about 3000 to 3400 RPMs. WTF? So I pop the throttle a couple of times by hand and finally it drops down to normal, then just as suddenly, it begins SEARCHING for lack of a better word, and starts racing upto 2600 rpm then drops to 1200 then up again then down again.
No check engine light or other idiot lights on. So I shut it down & check all the connections and hoses, nothing disconnected or left off or loose. I start it again, and it immediately begins running high & low searching for the idle again.
I shut it down again, and put the MacPro scanner on it and NO codes either set or pending. I next check the Haynes Manual I have for it, & the closest thing I can find to my problem says: Engine Lopes while idling or idles erratically 1) Vac leak 2) Leaking EGR 3)Air filt clogged 4) Fuel pump not delivering enough fuel 5) Leaking head gasket 6) Timing belt/sprockets worn 7) Camshaft lobes worn
By process of elimination, not #'s 2) According to service manual, there is no EGR valve on the 2.7, and I couldn't find one either, #3) Air Filter is new & clean, #4) ran fine before I worked on it & with the engine revving up to 34 or 3600 rpms, getting plenty of fuel, #5) Have had many head gasket problems over the years on many vehicles, never anything like this, and again, it ran fine until I worked on it #6 & 7) Doesn't seem to me to be a belt sprocket or cam shaft problem, as none of that was touched & again, it ran fine until I worked on it. This kind of narrows it down to #1, for me, but this is not like any vacuum leak I have ever come across in 45 years of auto repair. I have found & fixed many stumbling idles due to minor leaks but never had anything like this.
I next called a friend who owned an automotive machine shop & who I used to do work for, and now runs a highway dept garage for a municipality who has been a certified mechanic for many years, told him all the above & the only thing he could come up with was a MAJOR vacuum leak, like possibly the upper plenum gasket rolled up or got torn some how when I replaced the plenum and he suggested that I try a smoke test.
Scratching my head, I go back to the car, & break out my home made smoke machine that I use to successfully pinpoint leaks in emissions systems. I ran it for quite awhile, and found some light smoke leaking from somewhere down around the head, but due to the construction of the engine & no way to get the light to shine under the plenum, could only guess that he may have been right & that there may be a large leak down at the lower intake manifold to head gasket. Needless to say, I removed the upper plenum again, & this time also the manifold to heads, and the gaskets looked like they may possibly have leaked slightly between the ports, & quite possibly somewhere around the number 6 cylinder. So I cleaned the surfaces & am putting on the new gaskets that came in the set with the upper plenum to manifold gasket set.
My questions after relating all of this:
1) The 2 gaskets between the manifold & the cylinder heads have a blue stripe around all 3 cylinder port holes (appears to be some kind of sealant or factory applied silicone bead) & there are no markings of any kind anywhere on the gaskets, so do the blue stripes face DOWN to the heads or UP to the bottom of the intake manifold ?
2) Regardless of which way these stripes face, should I use any kind of high temp sealant around the port holes in addition to the gaskets, or just install them dry ?
3) Can the Idle Air Control on the Throttle Body Fail & affect the idle like the problem I am having, but NOT set a computer code ?
4) Can the Throttle Position Sensor affect the idle like this and NOT set a computer code?
5) I also found an electronic valve between the Air Intake & firewall, it is labeled PCV and has an OEM part number after that, I believe this to be the Purge Control Valve, which connects the TB to a plastic line which I believe runs down to the emissions canister under the vehicles front seats. Am I correct in thinking that even if this part had failed, it would have NOTHING to do with my erratic Idle problem, but would throw an emissions computer code?
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2002 Santa fe 2.7l v6 trouble code p1529 p0121 p0129 p0740...
I'm having erratic shifting problems and poor gas millage. The issue began approx 2 weeks ago and is always present. The issue is hard shifting between all the gears, jerking, high tac revving , difficulty shifting from 3rd to 4th gear and throttle at times unresponsive, and like i stated earlier poor gas mileage.
This past weekend I replaced the TPS, but the TPS codes are still present. One concern I have with the replacement is that I din't detach the negative cable, which I've recently learned should be done. So I'm not sure if by neglecting to remove the battery cable I may have damaged the new TPS.
Is it true that the negative battery cable should be removed with TPS replacement?
I've also read that a faulty TCM can cause these types of symptoms as well and one resolution may be to reset the TCM by removing both battery cables.
Any information on resetting the TCM? Also, in case I decide to replace the TCM, where the module is located ?
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I will occasionally get a misfire after a rain storm, lasts about ten minutes then goes away. there is also a slight miss (no CEL) at idle, that occurs all the time. I'm thinking spark plug wires.... the plugs were done last year, but nothing else. to my knowledge the wires and coil packs are all original. i'm at about 114K on a 2004 santa fe 3.5l.
Also, does the computer store misfire codes? I know I got them in the past and i checked it at the time, but didn't write down what cylinder it was. think it'll still be in memory?
Think it's ok to change just the wires and not the coil packs? kind of on a budget...
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The headlight beam height can be adjusted from inside the car. But even when not fiddling with the dial, I hear an electric motor sounding noise from them time to time, just a short <1s whirring sound. I listen with the bonnet open and I'm pretty sure it's coming from the headlights. Is this normal? is there any way I can stop it?
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I have a Honda Civic EX 1993. The mechanic said that this is not due to a sensor and checked all the wires and said all of that is fine. And said only a new speedometer would fix it but I wonder if something else couldn't fix it. Quite expensive to get a new speedometer, especially if it doesn't work.
For about 2 years I have had a problem with the speedometer. It does not come on right away. In the summer it takes maybe 5-10 minutes to come on. In the winter it rarely comes on before I get where I am going (I live in a small town so about 20 minutes). Tapping on it does nothing. Once it comes on it works fine.
I rarely go on the highway unless going out of town. When I do go on the highway (high speeds) after anywhere from 10-30 minutes depending on the weather, it first flips over to about about 100 mph, and then if I hit the front of the face of the speedometer it goes to the correct speed and works fine from there on. If I only stop for a short time, it comes back on fine. If I am stopped for a long time it goes through the same thing.
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My speedometer is erratic, not reading correctly, and the trans is not shifting right. It gets up to 3000 RPM and I have to back off the throttle to make it shift to 2nd. Then after driving a while everything starts working right. Next time I drive the truck it does the same thing.
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I have a 98 Civic with 218,000 miles. It's my around town car (the bigger more expensive car sits in the garage most of the time). The speedometer whacked out about a month ago. The needle will sit and quiver on 20 mph when I start it, when I'm going 60, and at stop lights. Suddenly, with no apparent reason the needle will jump to to the correct speed, work correctly and then as suddenly drop back to 20. I replaced the speed sensor (an easy job) and that didn't fix it. What else might be going on? Wiring harness? What would I do with the wiring? I do a lot of low level maintenance myself; oil, plugs, brakes, struts, but I've never done wiring work.
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My 2003 santa fe has Issues w the speedometer. It works on and off, specially when going over 65mph.
What do I need to do to fix this problem? Is it a DIY fix?
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my 2003 santa fe speedometer stopped working it started to go up and down then quit...
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We have an intermittent (now more regular) issue on our 2005 SF of the instrument cluster (tachometer, speedometer, gas gauge, temp gauge) sitting at zero - no motion whatsoever. In the summer months, the gauges came on after a while of AC being on, which I thought odd. But it just happened here in October (and the temp is just around 5C/41F) so a temp issue is unlikely. No OBD codes that we know of, all the fuses are fine, and while we did have a PCSV issue earlier this year, it did not seem to affect this particular issue with the gauges.
Threads such as the one below seem to say that it is the speedometer that is wacky... 01 Santa Fe Speedometer Not Working! , and the general solution to the problem/issue is to replace the vehicle speed sensor (VSS) and associated gear mechanism. And on a different thread, Input Output Speed Sensors , it was suggested that the problem could be addressed by changing the input and output sensors.
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This morning my speedometer started behaving erratically. The needle would swing plus or minus 10 miles per hour. driving home from work eventually it would not respond at all. I also noticed when I attempted to use the cruise after that it was not working either. I'm thinking these issues are connected. Do i need to replace the speed sensor that is on top of the transmission?
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I have an 04 5.4L SCREW Erratic Speedometer.
Most of the time it works, some of the time it bounces or doesn't read at all.
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About a week ago my 2002 santa fe suddenly lacked performance and the check engine light came on . At the same time I noticed the speedometer stopped registering. I later discovered the poor performance was due to the fact that the vehicle was in 3rd gear "limp" mode. The code generated is 1602 "failure to communicate between the ecu and transmission control module". At this point I hoping its just a faulty speed sensor that's causing the problem and not the transmission control module.
Does it indeed sound like a bad speed sensor or does it sound like a faulty TCM or could it be a break in the wires between the ECU and TCM? Also, is it safe to drive the vehicle in limp mode until i replace the part later this week?
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My speedometer decided to quit working this morning. The odometer is lit up but its not adding miles as I drive.
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How to fix a speedometer reading fluctuation? When I am driving about 45 mph the speedometer will drop to zero (RPM does not change) and then will bounce. Some times the speedometer will remain at zero other times it will bounce back to indicating speed.
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I'm having an issue on my 2002 F350 7.3. Today I hop in it and drive off I notice my speedometer stopped working. My overdrive light on the shifter started flashing. The trans seems like its not shifting correctly. It will eventually shift into overdrive but not always. Also now when I start off my fuel gauge raises and when I come to a stop it drops all the way to E and causes the ding and fuel light to light up. I figured this was all due to the VSS being bad. So I drove over to Autozone bought another VSS and a cheap tool set and changed it in the parking lot. No dice. I do have a scanner to pull the trans code but its late and I just got home.
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On my '91 last week I was driving on the highway about 60-65 when all of a sudden the speedo dial started climbing to 70-75-80-85 and past. The odometer seems to be working ok? Still when I drive it still operates in the same manner. It never bounces around or falls back. The needle is sort of stable such if I maintain a speed the speedo will maintain even though it's incorrect. There is a slight wavering of the needle meaning it's not as stable as it use to be. With the odometer working I was wondering and don't know. Does the cable drive the needle or is it electrically controlled? I'm thinking of grabbing another instrument cluster it that is the problem, I'd like to know more about it and understand how it works so I don't just throw parts at it until it's fixed.
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Well, two years after I replaced the pump bearing and the power steering is acting up like the belt is slipping. Sometimes it works fine, sometimes the steering gets jerky and hard.
The fluid level was fine, but I changed out the old stuff anyway, the belt is fine and not loose. I also pulled the pump apart to inspect it and it still looks as good as new.
When it acts up at a stop, it will squeal, but like I said, the belt is not loose. It's almost as if the rack is bottoming out against the bump stop (it's not) or the valve that lets excess pressure is dumping pressure randomly.
I took the valve apart with the pump and it looks fine, no scratches. Do the rack or valve go bad? If so, what was that like and could my rack have a seal leaking inside?
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recently the remote locking buttons have been acting weird. The locking system itself may be to blame but let me elaborate. Lately I've been trying to lock the car with the remote, but sometimes it will beep once, lock the car, then immediately unlock it. This will repeat if I try it over again. If the car is locked, the remote at times will not unlock the car and twice I've had to manually unlock it.
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