Santa FE SM (2001-06) :: 2004 - Rattling Sound Around 1000 RPMs / Idle
Nov 22, 2015
My mother has a '04 Santa Fe 3.5. Her automobile makes a rattling/grinding sound when around 1000rpms/idle. However, the sound disappears when accelerating and drives like a charm. The sound returns once again around 1000rmps at idle or stop. I have changed the oil pan, replaced oil and filter and even put in a new battery. I'm not an aficionado when it comes to Hyundais (Subaru driver here).Car also has 180k miles.
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My car is a 2001 honda accord v6. It sat for 3 winter months. When I go to turn it on in the morning, the car will rev while idling. Jumping between 1000 and 3000 rpms. Why this might be happening?
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Usually happens after car is warmed up. Rattles only while stopped and transmission still in drive. If I shift into Neutral or Park, rattling stops.
Last time I had a problem similar to this, dealer said it was a heat shield making the noise and they said they removed the heat shield (didn't specify what the heat shield was for.
Now I'm wondering if the heat shield was removed, what else this could be now...planning on taking it in in a few days.
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I have a 2004 3.5 V6 that is making a rattling noise when the car is in idle and/or about 1rpm. Sometimes, for awhile now , it kind of screams when I first start it...but not all the time. I know this is a loaded question but what do you think it might be? The screaming noises don't happen all the time, like I said, and very rarely happen together but the rattling is happening a lot!
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2012 SEL... Experiencing High Idle (1000 rpms) when the AC is ON. When I power the AC system OFF... the idle comes down to 700-800rpms. Then I power the AC back ON and it stays for the rest of my trip. Restart the car, and it's back to 1000 rpms with the AC on.
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My 2001 BMW 325Ci has an occasional "surging" idle problem. When coming to a stop or at idle, the engine will rev between 500 and 1000 rpm's. Sometimes it will correct the problem and idle normally, or keeps surging until it eventually stalls. When restarted it works fine. Tried fuel injector treatment, fuel stabilizer treatment, and replaced thermostat. Still surges about 50% of the time. Had it to a dealer, and computer says its running fine.
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I have a pretty bad flex pipe leak on my 20th. Would this leak cause a very rough idle almost stalling when I come to a complete stop. The Idle fluctuates from almost stalling to 1000rpms.
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When I am driving my elantra (engine warm), say I pull up to a red light or I am in a 'drive thru' my RPM's will go to under 500 and normally go under 400 which causes the whole car to shake and sound like it will stall. The car also has the issue with the Air Conditioning on that makes the vehicle have a deep rattling sound along with the very low idle which follows with my lights dimming or lightly flickering.
Milage: 177,000
Current Codes:
P0422 (catalyst 2 efficiency below threshold bank 1)
U0D00 (What that is)
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I have a 05 gli I just put a k04 turbo on. It runs on stock ecu but I have been told that's not the problem. When I start the car the rpm's spike to around 3 grand then slowly drop to normal idle rpm's when it gets under 1000 rpms the car starts to shake and idle hard. Idk what it is Cel is on and read misfires in 3 of 4 cylinders but checked plugs and everything they r fine. I'm thinking maybe vacuum leak or something along those lines.
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I have a 2003 Ford Musang 3.8L v6 when I start my car for the first time of the day or after several hours of sitting the car idles high between 1000-1300 RPMs for approximately 15-20 seconds after that it idles down to 600-800 rpms. I changed the spark plugs wires air filter not sure what else it could be no Check engine light.
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I have a 2008 Ford Focus - 4 Door Sedan SE 60300 miles.
I've gone to 3 mechanics now and no one can seem to figure out whats wrong with my car. Here's whats happening:
About 1 1/2 years ago I took my car to get an oil change at Jiffy Lube (Yeah never again). When I left, my car was idling funny... Silly me didn't take it right back and have them tell me what was wrong.. so I let it go, well about a month later it started idling even weirder. Basically it feels like my car is shaking when it gets under 1000 RPM and I notice my RPM dial start falling and bouncing back, acting like its going to stall, but never does. I notice a loss of power when this is happening (on speed up and just accelerating in general). All of this is random, I can't seem to put a pattern to it as to when it happens. One day I'll start it up and everything is perfect... Then I'll shut it off and restart it later, and it starts vibrating and puttering again... No signals as to if its hot/cold or wet/dry, no environmental variables seem to cause it to happen anymore than others. And there is no check engine light on, everything "looks" normal.
What I've had done to it so far is:
Air filter changed / reseated
3 oil changes (keep getting told it will work)
Throttle cleaned
Computer reset for idle sensor data rebuilding
Now I'm told that I need new engine mounts, and that could be the reason for the vibration. I'm thinking that the vibration caused the mounts to wear out, more so than the mounts being the cause. Mainly because I don't see how bad mounts could cause loss in power/bad idling.
What could be wrong?!? Really bugging me and don't want to keep throwing money at it for phantom solutions. Seems like mechanics I go to can't figure it out unless there is a check engine light on with some diagnosis code to tell them exactly whats wrong.
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My 2003 Sante Fe has developed a rattling sound in the engine. The oil level has been good. I took it to a dealer for diagnoses and they told me that the engine was gunked up and the timing "chain" tensioner couldn't move to keep it tight and it was rattling. They put some engine cleaner in and changed the oil and wanted me back in 500 to clean it again. I did that again, but the rattle is still there. It gets a little quieter after I have driven it for a while.
My question is doesn't the Sante Fe have a timing belt? If that is the case what do you think the rattle is?
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Well, it's looking sort of depressing for my '06 Sonata! I had an oil change done yesterday and now I'm getting a Low Oil Pressure Light on idle under 1,000 rpm's. Today the check engine light came on and it's code P0021.
I also experience very noisy "bearing" type noise upon start-up which happens for about 10 seconds or so. This has been going on for a month or so.
During my online research it's appearing that I may be suffering from the dreaded Timing Chain Tensioner I've read a lot about.
I'm aware of the TSB (10-EM-006) and have a copy of it if needed.
My question is this...my Sonata has 151,000 miles on it, well beyond the 100k warranty period. Will Hyundai repair my issue as a warranty item under that TSB?
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I have several problems with my 06 FEH maybe some of you had same issues. I have imported this car from new york in my country 1 month ago, this is first Ford for me. Love this car but there is some issues and want to figure them out.
1. seat heating is turning on without clicking on the button, but not always it's random. Often on passenger seat some time on driver side to. I try to disable fuse but it also for 4x4 so it's not an option.
2. My engine idle RPMs is always higher that 1000. Maybe it is normal but want to be sure.
3. car cannot climb the hills here is the video.... car is just doing nothing to climb no rev up no trying just stall in middle. In my country there is some roads with hills like this and I want to visit that places.
4. Cruise control is working random to maybe it will start speed control in one click or after 20 -s try.
5.Is there any way to see soc? factory unis is replaced in my car with aftermarket radio. I have elm327 and tourque pro but can't find that option.
6. When monitoring with obd water temperature is always lower then it was on my other cars. its around 158-176F on other cars it was 200F.
YouTube......
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2004 Santa Fe .... 2.7 6 Cyl 4WD 150k miles
Recently I started experiencing RPMs surging upon startup and driving before my engine warms up. The problem has gotten worse to where I push on the accelerator the RPMs jump to 2700 and the transmission feels like it disengages. My initial thought was the tranny was going bad and slipping. I checked the fluid level in the T and found it was maybe a half Qt. low. I topped it off, but this had no impact on the problem. On a side note, I am able to use the manual shifting feature on the "His and Hers" Shifter and drive the vehicle without any issue. Transmission works fine in manual. The surging RPMs which only occur in Automatic mode, triggered the CEL and I got a code of P0123 which is high side voltage on the Throttle Position Sensor. I replaced the gray TPS with a new black one.
Upon startup the RPMS jumped to 3000 just sitting in Park. I disassembled and reinstalled figuring I had something bound in the throttle. After reassembly the idle went up to 2200, still no good! I reinstalled the original gray TPS and the RPMs, upon starting, RPMs were 1500 with the old sensor...still too high. I did reset the ECU twice during the process of putting in the new sensor and reinstalling the old sensor. Right now I found that when I disconnect the TPS electrical connector, the engine runs normal. It starts right up with the TPS totally disconnected and idles at 750 RPMs! It will not shift to 2nd gear though, when I try to drive it in Automatic Mode. I can however drive in Manual Mode and drive normal and shift right through the gears. Who needs automatic mode right?!!!
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My 2002 F-150 with the 5.4 has an issue with a high rev (1000 RPM for a few seconds) while at a stop sign, along with a clunking/banging sound coming from under the truck. This is when I have the brake mashed all the way, and this all happens at the same time, almost every time I come to a stop at a stop sign or light. I do have an intake manifold leak, which i have recently determined, but I do not know if the high rev at a stop sign has to do with the manifold leak or to do with the transmission sounding thump I hear. Could this be a torque converter not unlocking, and then suddenly unlocking? Because after the thump sound, the RPM's go down to around 650 from 1000 every time.
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2010 F150 ... So I have the tick noise at rpm's 800-1000 at drive through, stops, etc. So I did research on it a few months ago and saw that it might be VCT's but should be able to drive. so I drove it waiting to save money and have it go to a shop. well this past weekend while coming home from work my oil light came on the pressure dropped to zero, I was on the highway so I drove about another mile to get off highway and once I got off my truck died. I had it towed to my house and I thought I blew my motor. So I started doing research here and found that the VCT's AND cam Phaser could be bad. so I replaced my VCT on driver side put it all back together it started and loud knock was gone. then after 5 mins it was back very loud knock!
So I shut it down and took apart the passenger side once I got the valve cover off I found the problem.... The bolt that holds the cam phaser in place snapped off and was riding along the camshaft. So I took that out and extracted remaining part of bolt. inspected my camshaft and it was really messed up. so I bought new Phaser and Camshaft. the camshaft just came in today and I am trying to put it back in. but the hole for the pin in the phaser doesn't line up and I cant spin the shaft to make it line up. should I spin the cam phaser? I marked the chain and the phaser is where it should be on chain, but with that bolt snapping off could that have thrown the timing off so my mark is no good? when I lay the camshaft in place it sits perfect and if I just move the phase over 2-3 links it will all fit together. Should I do that?
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2004 Santa fe. Having issues with RPM running high. When car is started, RPM sits at 1500 for a few mins, then drops to 500. Seems to be having issues either getting into gear or staying. At any mph, car seems to surge and not feel like it's getting either gas or power. While on cruise at 55+ mph, car will also surge with RPM dropping 500, then kicking back in. This goes on every few seconds up to random times.
Had it looked at this past weekend at a dealer, and of course it didn't do it one time, after doing it for a half hour prior on the interstate. Tech found no error codes when he checked it as well. Car was fine for an additional 300 miles, then it started again out of the blue. Pulled out at a red light and I though I was going to stall.
Just got laid off so I'm trying to eliminate before putting a lot of money into it if I don't have to. 132,000 miles.
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I put a link below on the video that I made. But when I come across 1,000 RPMs weather I turn, go straight, left or right it makes this noise like a humming or rubbing noise. I took it to the dealership and they fed me crap saying when it gets worse or when it happens every time brig it back.
[URL] ....
I don't think this link is working I'm trying to figure out this iPhone. Search my YouTube channel Kill3rcr3w that's the channel I just uploaded it
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2003 Elantra gt 90,0000 miles manual transmission. Rough idle under 1000 rpm it smooths out completely above 1000 rpm.
Also the engine makes a ticking noise from a cold start up. It stops making the ticking noise after 1500rpm or when the engine warms up.
Occasionally the car has a sputtering backfire. This happens when I park the car after being on the highway.
Replaced the plugs, wires, and the pcv valve. Dropped the oil pan and it and the oil pump pick up screen were clean.
The only check engine light to come on was for the speed sensor. It has since gone out on it's own.
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Starts fine. Runs fine till warmed up. Then dies at idle and runs rough on gear till 1000 rpm. Has only coded iac when unplugged. But would idle with it unplugged. I replaced it. Also got crank can code once while checking it ...
2001 dodge ram 1500 318 engine ....
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