Santa FE SM (2001-06) :: 2004 - Power Loss With A Check Engine Light On / Intermittent Misfire
Dec 14, 2011
I have a 2004 santa fe with a 2.7 v6. I have had a little misfire issue lately. I had a major power loss with a check engine light on it lasted for just a minute before it settled itself out. Had the code pulled at a local parts store. P0301 so I checked the plugs and they looked worn out. I pulled the upper intake and replaced the plugs and wires plus the upper intake gasket. I cleared the code and that seemed to correct the problem. Two days later, same thing happened. The engine seems to be running fine now. I wiggled the wiring harness to the injector and to the coil, no change in the way it runs. I was thinking it could be an injector or a coil pack.
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I have a 2008 FX2 5.4L F150. Recently it began to lose power on a friend driving it out of town. He got a check engine light then it just progressively became unable to produce power. It ran but he got down to 10 mph before he could get to a firestone. I got it to a local Ford dealer and they say i need a new engine. They gave me codes for cam sensor and timing and #5 and #6 misfire. (344, 345)
No oil in radiator, no water in oil. The crazy thing is it runs like the day i bought it in Park. But once in gear it begins to cough and then eventually shudders and dies. I haven't changed plugs ever. I know... At about 75 miles it began to idle rough at times and in reverse. But once I revved up it went away.
I replaced both cam sensors but no luck. Today i put it on a tow truck to get a second opinion from a local engine shop. I actually backed it down my driveway, and pulled up to the tow truck with no issues. weird...
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I have a problem with my 2004 Santa Fe, 2l diesel. Will try to keep this short!
When driving it suddenly 'heaves' (not sure how else to describe it), then it cuts out. I wait about a minute and then it restarts.
At first there was no 'heave' but there would be a momentary loss of power (I thought it was the clutch). Then it progressed to the 'heave' and then cut out, this happened now and then. Very quickly it started to do it every time I drove it. My neighbor mechanic blew down the fuel line, said the fuel pump in tank sounded ok, seemed to do it more when below quarter of tank.
So I kept tank topped up, it seemed ok, then on one 11 mile journey it did it 3 times, the last time the engine management light came on, crawled it home, after which it would not start at all. The computer said it was either fuel rail or coolant sensor. Neighbor replaced coolant sensor, it started ok. Tried it next day - 6 miles and it heaved and cut out again. This time no light coming on.
I've read about cam sensor, crank shaft sensor, fuel pump at back of engine...
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Bought my Santa Fe GLS less than 2 months ago and ran fine. Last week, went to store no problems and then went out 5 minutes later, put it in reverse and it stalled. I go to the store, and it lacks MAJOR power.
Now, if I leave it alone for a while it will normally start right up. While idling, everything seems fine. Then my "ghost" takes over the vehicle making it less responsive to the gas pedal. Also, at 3000 rpm, it sounds like its skipping a cylinder. When reading the gauge, it skips between 3000rpm to abut 2800 rpm.
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We have a 2004 Saturn Vue that has been in the shop FOUR times for a loss of power issue. The check engine light will come on and almost simultaneously the loss of power light will come on and the car will pretty much come to a stop. So far they have replaced the computer, gas pedal, wiring to the computer, cat converter...it is still doing it!
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I have an 02 Dodge Caravan 3.3 L Flex . It had initially stalled and wouldn't start. Check engine light was on. Had it towed to a Cert Mech. He said it needed a "Major" tune-up. I let him do this. It included: New Coilpak, plugs, plug wires, cam-sensor, crank sensor. That's what was on 1st invoice.
It started, but was still running very rough. He then recommend a new PCM. After choking on his estimate, and paying the initial invoice, I decided to let someone else have at it. Mech # 2 installed a "Rebuilt" PCM, New Battery, and a PCV Valve.
It runs good now BUT, ...It has this weird idle Misfire. The only time it happens is at a stop light when at idle. And it doesnt do it all the time. This check engine light is not on... At this point, all I want to do is sell it.I have over 1K in repair costs and still can't get rid of this misfire.
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This is my friend's car and I have never looked under a Subaru hood before. She is getting an intermittent check engine light with codes for cylinder misfires on one and three. Today, I inspected the plugs and all four looked identical, a nice uniform tan color and good condition. No sign of deposits or oil. Did a compression test and found the driver's side bank at 155/150 and the passenger side bank at 185/190. My question at this point is which side is cylinders 1 and 3? The front-most cylinder is on the passenger side. Is this the number 1 and 3? If so, then the low compression on the other bank cannot account for the misfire.
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I have a 2004 Santa Fe 2.4L the check engine light is on and says about the evap canister solenoid. I am trying to located it but I can't find it. So, where would it be located at so I can take it apart and where is the Canister located as well...
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I own the 2014 Santa fe turbo 2.0 litre limited which has 4000 km on it. Within 210 km the engine light came on 3 times. I took it into the shop and they ran a code of P0303 which is a misfire, they changed the coils #2 and #3 and cleared the code. The second time it showed the same code but the shop said it was in the history so that is why the same code came up again. They ran an update ECM? and all was good. Now the 3rd time they tell me no code has come up and can't do anything about the engine (they cleared it) but it was like chasing ghosts. My vehicle runs great so not sure why I am constantly having this issue.
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I did STFA, but no love. Cruise quit, EPC light on, Intermittent power loss. I checked all the fluids (ok), cleared the codes and drove it. all the stuff came back. I have a 2004...
Vag says:
Thursday,04,May,2006,19:20:22
VAG-COM Version: Release 512.4-UD
Chassis Type: 7L - VW Touareg
Scan: 01 02 03 05 06 08 09 11 15 16 17 18 19 1C 22 29 32 34 36 37
39 46 47 55 56 57 64 65 68 69 6C 6E 75 76 77
[Code] ......
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I just bought a 2004 F350 6.0 cclb 6 speed with 260k on it. The previous owner seemed to have taken good care of the truck. It is basically stock with the exception of the blue spring mod, and a sinister diesel coolant filter. Anyways, I brought the truck home and it ran great. Now I have an issue that needs to be addressed.
The issue: I am experiencing a intermittent loss of power, stall, or stumble when engine is cold. After sitting all night the truck will start fine and idle fine. But when I try to accelerate and bring engine RPM up the engine will stumble and lose all throttle response, when this happens the WTS and WIF light flash. Sometimes it just stumbles, sometimes the truck will actually die and then restart. The issue seems to go away after the engine has reached operating temp.
I did some research on the issue and it seems there is actually a TSB out from ford for this issue. It explains that some 2003-2004 6.0's might have wiring harness chaffing issues. This is what the issue I am having seems like to me (shorting harness). I looked up codes on the truck and there is an active code (#8 glow plug circuit fault). I did a short visual inspection of harness and didn't see anything out of the ordinary. But i wonder if it would be worth changing both sides of the glow plug harness?
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As the title says I have plugged a code reader in and it says "cyclinder three misfire". So I pulled the plugs and good god they were nasty. Some having a gap of 80-90 thousandths of an inch. So I figured the plugs were the source of the problem, thus I replaced them but to my dimise the check engine light is still on, and still reading the same ol' "cyclinder three misfire". I have put 350 miles on it in 24 hours of changing it to allow for proper time of the circuit cycling for the light to change but not sure if it takes longer...?
I also went ahead and checked the plug wires resistance when I had the plugs pulled and they ranged from 1.5-2.5k ohms shortest to longest (cylinder 4-1). And if your curious the magic cylinder three was around 2k ohms for however long that wire is, my guess would be 18 inches. Would this be out of tolerance, I know the norm is 10k ohm for every 12 inches or so...?
My next guess would be replacing the power pack or I guess you car guys call it the "ignition coil"...? I will say that the car does run much smoother after replacing the plugs.
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I have a 2001 forester. it had a misfire which has been fixed but I can't get the "check engine" light to turn off.
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I have a 2001 Mercury Grand Marquis. The check engine light came on and AutoZone diagnosed it as a misfire on Cyl. #4. I changed all the plugs but I do not know how to turn off the light to see if I fixed the problem. How to turn the light off.
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2004 2.4L Hyundai Santa Fe here, died whilst travelling, lost all power and then wouldn't start. Sounds like its trying to turn over.
The fuel cut off seems to have been activated as it clicked when I pushed it but the car still wont start.
I do not have any engine management lights but when connecting the code reader I got P0320, however the code was stored but not present... and still the car will not start. I cleared the code and the code didn't re appear but the car will still not start.
As the code isn't immediately present does this mean the sensor is at fault or do I have other problems?
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When I bought the car a few weeks ago, there was a p0507 code for a high idle in park, about 1300 RPM, but sometimes shooting up to 3000 when I shifted into park and then dying down. The code goes on and off intermittently. Not that big of a deal at first. Then I started noticing that if I revved it in park it would take forever to die down to 1300, and sometimes would fluctuate around 2000. I also noticed hesitation while accelerating around 1500 RPM and the transmission hunting for gears while accelerating, as well. I noticed my throttle cable was very slack so I tightened that, and bought myself a throttle position sensor, thinking that might be the problem, but didn't install it yet.
I was driving on the freeway yesterday in cruise control and then I started losing power while my foot was on the gas. With my foot on the gas, the throttle would cut out every second. I was basically one second of throttle, one second of no throttle, all the way down the highway. Almost impossible to drive. This continued even after I turned cruise control off. I limped my way to Home Depot and installed my TPS in the parking lot, and drove most of the way home with no issues, although I still noticed a slight hesitation while accelerating. Alas, I tested cruise control again and then the throttle on/off problem started again, then I could barely drive the thing, even after cruise control was off again. I'll be returning the new TPS to Autozone today, since apparently that's not the problem. What's my next move?
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I have a 2005 Santa Fe with the 3.5 with 112000 miles on it. I had the engine light come on with the code P0302 cyl #2 misfire, I got spark plugs, plug wires to do a tune up on it. I changed all of it and got it back together, started it up and it still had a miss to it. I then took the front spark plugs out and did a compression test on it. #2 was at 85, #4 was at 120, and #6 was at 160. I couldn't check the back cyls because I had already put the intake back on. I then did a wet test, and all the cyls came up to 160. So this tell me that the piston rings are bad in #2 and going bad in #4. I have kept all the oil changes up and up to this point I haven't had any trouble with it. Having this problem with there 3.5?
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Our 2008 with 110,000 mi is intermittently displaying CEL. First appeared about 3 wks ago. I took gas cap off and then put it back on and let car sit overnight. Next day and for 10 days no CEL. Then one mornng, at first start, CEL reappeared. Repeated gas cap process that night. CEL disappeared for 6 days. Then CEL came on in middle of day after car had been started and stopped 3 times. Repeated gas cap process that evening with no success. Did the gas cap thing one more time, last night, and today the CEL is off. First time CEL came on was right after a fill-up. Subsequent CEL's have had no relationship to refueling. Car has been nearly flawless for 68 months. Engine coolant pump changed @ 75k. Aux batt changed 24 mo ago.
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I have a 2003 Elantra GLS. I am intermittently Check Engine light and error code is P0113 - Air Intake sensor issue. I can't locate where the sensor is. I don't see any wire coming of the tubing that connects the air filter to the engine.
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I changed plugs wires and car started drove 32 miles to work started loosing power fuel pump seems to b fine check engine came on then started flashing worked 10 hours and car won't start 98 Buick v6 3.8....
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So last Thursday I started my car up in the blistering cold and it ran fine for about a minute and started to misfire so I shut it off. It hasn't ran since. When that happened the check engine light was blinking because of the misfire. I didn't have a code reader at the time to read it. now that I got a code reader the damn thing isn't throwing any codes. it spits and sputters sometimes. I've had no previous problems with the car. Thinking It might be a weak fuel pump or bad coils and in not sure how to test them.
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