My wifes 2004 Santa Fe has no heat. From what I have read, a common cause of this is the blend door. I pulled the glove box, but was unable to locate the blend door. On the parts diagram it appears to be on the bottom of the heater box. Every tutorial I have seen show it on the right side, and easily accessible.
View 16 RepliesMy 2003 mountaineer 4.6L has front and rear heat. The issue is the heat in the front is barely warm and the heat in the back is poor. I have replaced the blend doors front and back and I'm sure they work as I can go from cold to barely warm and back again when I change the temperature setting.
I can feel hot fluid going from the engine to the front heater core and also down under the vehicle to the rear when the vehicle is warm. The return on the front is almost cold - so heat is being given up by the heater core in front, but it seems to me that if the return is almost cold, there's not enough hot coolant delivery. The overall heat is very poor in the cabin.
The coolant temperature gauge is steady and just below 1/2 with no erratic movements. I flushed the front heater core a couple years ago. Coolant has also been flushed last year. I know that the heat is underpowered in this vehicle, but it's a far cry from when it was new.
I have a SAAB 2000 95, and the heat isn't working. I was told by a local shop that the blend door motor isn't opening to allow the system to switch from air to heat. He said that the heating system was working, but that the hot air can't exit the dash. He said it would have to be repaired at a dealership.
View 3 RepliesI have a 04 Silverado crew cab with automatic AC. After many dead battery problems, the AC blend doors quit working correctly. If I pull the fuse and then let them reprogram, it may take several tries but I can eventually get them to work correctly. The problem then is that it only lasts for a couple of days. How to program these correctly?
View 2 RepliesThis concerns a 2003 Hyundai Santa Fe 2.7L engine.
Bad rain, combined with a puddle splash caused a short (someplace). Vehicle ran poorly on way home and then eventually failed to start. Replaced the Cam Position Sensor and the Crankshaft Position Sensor. Checked all wiring and connections. Cleared codes and the vehicle started. Ran for about 15/20 minutes and a P0340 code popped with the engine light on. Car still runs fine. Researched code and learned that this code is a Camshaft Position Sensor A - Circuit Malfunction.
1. Bad ground in Circuit.
2. Open Circuit that fails to close.
3. PCM malfunction.
Questions:
1. Where in this vehicles is the PCM located? Is it within the main ECU in one of the other ECU fuses or an independent fuse?
2. Other than the 3 issues listed above, could I be overlooking anything else?
I have the 3.5 LX AWD 2004 Santa Fe 102,000 miles purchased new. My power steering fluid reservoir was leaking from the top a lot. I read here that the screen in it could be clogged. I went to the garage the manager never heard of such a thing he said, and never heard of a PS reservoir having a screen (I gave him the TS. He said if I got the part and wanted it changed they would change it. I did that. It was done 2 weeks ago and now it all dry under there. But, now.. there is a low whine on the passenger side under the hood toward the back, but when I put the A/C on or the heater on defrost (Not when heater is on, only in defrost) there is a loud rumble/hum from the same area. Shut A/C or defroster it goes back to a low buzz/hum again.
I had the power steering pump replaced at the dealer about 2 years ago, its not old. The noise is NOT any louder when I crank the steering wheel all the way to either side. The fluid since replacing the Power steering fluid reservoir is staying at the same level, full, no leaking. When I put everything on, lights heat only (No defroster), radio, lights the noise doesn't get any louder either, I tested that. The other night after driving about a half hour to and from a place I went to u-turn in a parking lot and that whine was louder for a minute and while driving forward slowly out of the parking lot getting up to speed.
When I asked about the PS fluid reservoir, I had also, asked the repair shop manager his opinion, of that loud hum/rumble when I put the A/C on (At the time I thought it only happened with the A/C when the compress popped on). He listened said "That's the A/C compressor it's going and its going and cost more to replace it then its worth on your 2004." So, that's the background.
Questions: 1. Just wondering if you think it is the A/C compressor that is the loud noise when on, would the A/C compressor even go on when the defroster is on, the A/C is off, and the heat on and there for still make that loud rumble??? Or does that defroster fact kind of mean its not the A/C compressor??
2. What is your opinion of the low buzz/whine noise now (When heat/AC off)? I can't pin point it totally in park when listening, its very low (Except that one point where it was loud for a few minutes driving out of the parking lot.) (The motor sounds a bit louder in it in front too just side observation)
I almost worried if the low buzz was the Transmission as its fluid hasn't been changed in a few years (Because the mechanic said sometimes changing the fluid when its been a lot of miles between can actually cause problems to the transmission) It was done at the dealer around 45,000 miles and now my Santa Fe has 102,000 miles.
Could the power steering pump be going bad in only 2 years from what I've described? Or could the PS fluid reservoir having been spitting PS fluid from the top for a couple of weeks have caused damage to the PS pump now?
The fluid never got lower then full when it was coming out of the top and only when driving, I kept checking it. The mechanic who put the PS fluid reservoir in said he had no idea if it leaked from the top due to the screen as he felt the screen had only minor debris that was not blocking a lot of the screen since its a big screen (He didn't look too hard though), and it was possible even a small crack in the reservoir could cause that same fluid coming out at the top. He said it could be either he didn't notice a crack either.
Or are these two noises possibly not related even though possibly from the same area on the passenger side under hood.
I have a 2004 Santa Fe, recently all the door locks stopped working at once. When I use the Key Fob The Blinkers flash like they are supposed to but it does not lock/unlock the doors. The panic button also works. When I use the key in the door it only unlocks that door, meaning when I double turn the other doors do not lock/unlock. Now that this happened all at once I do not believe all the actuators broke at once. Is there a fuse or a relay that might of broke or blown?
View 8 RepliesMy 04 Elantra GT hatch is my lifetime favorite car. Especially like the rear seats that fold flat. It has 104k miles, but I want to keep it going.
Day before yesterday the blower started making loud noises. I took car back to Pepboys who replaced the cabin air filter they put in a month ago. They had installed it incorrectly, and it shredded with a 6 inch hole in the middle, and paper everywhere. When I left, the fan was not making any unusual noises.
Yesterday I drove 20 minutes on freeway, stopped to shop, started driving, and turned on fan. Immediately the check light went on. Back to Pepboys, service manager said check was P0501 and was a transmission speed sensor that couldn't be related to the filter mess.
Last night I found the Hyundai forum and I read in a post that this is a wheel speed sensor that would be located in the right front wheel and well not far from the cabin filter. Is it possible that the debris from the fan/filter collision has affected this speed sensor? Or is this just a very untimely coincidence?
I know nothing about automobiles. What I should do next and thereafter? Is it safe to drive this car as usual until the problem is fixed?
I have a 2004 Santa Fe with 327,000+ miles on it (the speedometer doesn't work any longer - another problem).
Last July/Aug (2012) I had the driver window fixed (didn't go up or down) after it was fixed all the interior lights stopped working...dome light, map lights...they will not work automatically by opening a door nor manually. Even the rear hatch light will not turn on. Its not the fuse.
When I use the remote to lock/unlock the doors the drivers side door won't activate . . . .unless it's really cold outside. The other 3 doors work year round.
Sounds weird but as the weather gets colder the lock on the drivers door will start to work. As winter turns to summer here in Illinois it starts to act up again. When it does work, it seems that unlocking works more consistently than locking.
Asked the dealer to have a look at it. They said it was a "weak actuator motor" and suggested to replace it. Sounds bogus to me.
I've tried to have a look down there but I'm afraid to take it all apart for fear I won't be able to get it all back together. Are there adjustments that can be made to the linkage or are lubrication points that might get this thing back working again . . . . . . all year long?
I also noticed that manually working the passenger side lock will lock the rear doors but won't lock the drivers door so it's not the remote. I never paid attention to whether manually working the driver side lock would lock the other doors but I think not since the buttons are right there on the drivers door.
What is the difference between :
Part # XF2H-19E616-FA and
Part # YL5Z-19E616-AA?
The middle numbers are the same. And they look the same? the first one is mine. Blend door actuator out of a 2000 ford windstar. Will another part # work? If the connection is the same?
Recently when I adjust the temperature, there is a clicking from under the dash. It sounds like the Blend door is stuck.
View 7 RepliesWent into town earlier and the a/c was not blowing out the 2 passenger side vents. Could switch to defrost and it would blow correctly. The rear is working as well. The drivers side vents blow good and if you cover those with your hands to block them off its like it forces air to blow out the passenger vents. Could this be a blend door issue?
View 2 RepliesI have a 99 EB Expedition 5.4 with EATC climate control. I replaced the heater core that had been leaking severely. When I got the dash back on I adjusted the controls with the engine running while watching the blend door actuator under the dash. it moved but not as much as I thought it should. So I drilled an "inspection" hole behind the glove box and into the plenum cover. I watched the blend door open and close when the hot/cold buttons were adjusted, but the movement was intermittent.
I'd checked the blend door for cracks prior to installing the heater core and found none. I left things alone for a day while I drove as normal. When I had time to work on it again, the actuator quit working. I figured it was damaged from the coolant leaking into the cab so I decided to replace it. It was indeed full of coolant. I bought a Dorman actuator (part #604-216) and plugged it into the wiring harness to test it before installing it. I adjusted the controls with the ignition in the "run" position and nothing happened. I'm at a loss as to what could be the problem. I've searched for this problem, but the only threads I find are incomplete or deal with the "manual" controls. I checked all my fuses and they are all good.
My questions are:
Could I have bought the wrong actuator? Would the harness fit the "manual" actuator? The part number was identified as being for the main blend door for "automatic" controls. Is there a possibility the EATC head unit is bad? It still sends air to the panel, floor and defrost when adjusted.
How do I test the voltage at the connector? I just bought a multimeter but I'm not sure which wires in the harness deliver power to the actuator. I know there are a lot of people on this site who've gone through the heater core/blend door ordeal and have lived to tell about it. What I should do next.
Where is the Blend Door Actuator on the ford Aerostar?
View 14 RepliesTime for me to replace the actuator. I just have one. I've watched many videos on it but none say anything about re-calibration before using. A few posts say this is needed. Is it? if so how is it done?
View 6 RepliesI have an Explorer with automatic A/C. The blend door actuator broke (a gear inside) so I replace it with a Dorman part (could not find the Ford ones anywhere). Part #604-202, looks identical and fits. But... doesn't work.
If I do the EATC test (OFF+FLOOR, then AUTOMATIC), the display shows error coded 024, 025, 052. What is the meaning of those?
Dad has a 97 F150 with some heater issues. He put a new potentiometer in and it didn't work. We he turns the dial to cold, it still blows hot air. Defrost =hot, vent=hot, a/c=warm etc.....
The dealership told him that the blend door might be stuck. My question is, how hard is this to fix? Is it something that I can just stop by after work and quickly fix. What is involved in fixing this and where it is?
Whenever my A/C is turned on, it blows nice cold air. As long as the blower is on "1", "2", and sometimes ", it blows cold air. If I turn it to "4" I can hear a small "thud" behind the dash. It sounds like the blend door is shutting. All my functions work like they should. I think the actuator is goin out and isn't pushing the door all the way closed, and when I turn it to "4" it pushes it te other way.
View 5 RepliesCompressor clutch engages, lines are cold, when it works air is cold. A/C guy thinks the blend door isn't working right, is it vacuum operated or electric?
View 3 RepliesI purchased a 6.7 Diesel 2014 F250 Super Duty Crew Cab about 3 months ago. Yesterday I started my truck using the remote starter from inside my house. Seconds after I heard a loud noise. Looked outside, saw nothing and thought nothing of it till I went to open my door and realized that the driver door window shattered! I live in a quiet area, it wasn't a rock thrown at my truck or anything like that, it just Blew!!!!
I'm wondering if the truck might have some sort of pressure or torque if you wish on that window to make it just pop! My mirrors were folded in however I can't see that playing a role......