Santa FE SM (2001-06) :: 2004 - Ignition Coil Sparks / Rough Jumping Idle
Jun 3, 2014
I have a 2004 SF/2.4 I4. When the car warms up, the ignition coil sparks between the rubber boot and the coil itself, drawing the spark from the plug and resulting in a misfire. This is especially apparent when the A/C is running and the car is idle-ing, resulting in the A/C turning off and a rough jumping idle. Once the car is running this is not noticeable and the A/C turns on.
I have changed the spark plugs to new autolite plugs, and the situation disappeared for a day, but now it is back. I ordered OEM NGK Laser Iridium plugs, I hope they will fix the situation. Why would the A/C matter? Next on the list will be the ignition coil and wire change, but I hope to avoid that.
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completely stock 2006 4.6, 230,000 miles, I purchased and can vouch for everything after 106,000.
Two separate issues...have had a slight ticking noise growing for about the last two years. Seems to get slightly worse near an oil change but that could be my imagination. It has finally gotten loud enough that my wife (who drives with the delicacy and observational skills of a Sherman tank driver) actually mentioned it to me the other day. It is directly related to engine speed whether the truck is in gear or not. I kind of think it might be a manifold gasket going out but am not sure. Am not very worried about it but...felt like I needed to mention it because of my bigger problem....
Truck has gotten very "cranky" on startup in the last week. Has a rough time finding an idle speed but typically sorts itself out after about 5-10 seconds. This afternoon it started idling rough at a stoplight. It got steadily worse and noticeable even at speed. Four stoplights and nine miles later it threw a code and coincidentally, I was in front of an Advance Auto. They read it and said the #3 cylinder was not firing. I bought an ignition coil, drove 15 miles home and changed it. From everywhere I looked online, this is the second cylinder from the firewall on the passenger side.
Had a little trouble getting it in and am not entirely sure it is fully seated in the slot, but I can't get it to go any further. Seems as tight as a couple of the others. I disconnected the battery to clear the codes, cranked it up and it seems to run "better", but still has a rough idle. Just test drove it about 12 miles and no check engine light but the idle has not cleared up. I think coil must be working fine because I have no issues at highway speed. Earlier, when I backed off the gas you would feel the miss very badly, but not as much when under a load.
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A few days ago, I started my wife's Santa Fe (106k miles) to warm it up and it had a rough idle. I gave it a test drive and the engine light came on and off a few times as it sputtered down the road. I retrieved the codes with my scan tool and it showed - P0300, P0304 and P0306. After some researching, I decided to change the coils, plugs and wires (under upper manifold) this coming weekend.
I have seen the web page instructions for doing this on a 2.7L [URL] .... but it has less stuff around the manifold compared to our Santa Fe. These instructions doesn't include coils was well since the plugs in front use just wires.
My question is.. Is there a set of instructions for the 3.5L for removing the manifold?.. From a less intense standpoint, maybe some of the hoses and cables can stay intact just to move the upper manifold or lift it to the side?... Also, Cyl 2, 4, 6 are the three sparks plugs in the front? 2004 Santa Fe 3.5l ....
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Sunday my truck began to sputter at idol while at a light and continued when parked. My first assumption was another coil pack has gone out. Went to autoparts store to get a new one and run the codes to tell me which cylinder it was. Code P0357 came up referring to cylinder G which seemed odd to me as it usually gives me a number rather than a letter. Bought the coil pack and went home to swap it out. Replaced the coil and with no change in the idol I googled the code. I have now replaced the coil, inspected the plug and wires around the plug and now I am at a loss of what to do next.
There is only a rough idol, no hesitation when driving or accelerating. Along with that, I've notice that if I'm going between 30-50 and take my foot off the gas it doesn't slow down, it's as though the cruise control is on... After a few miles on the highway and come to a stop, the RPMs are around 1k for about 30 seconds then drops to almost stall before catching itself and begins to sputter.
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I have a 2001 elantra 2.0 gls. It is running rough with low power and flashing engine light. It may have a bad 02 sensor but when checked for spark only the 2 and 3 cylinders were sparking. I can confirm this because when I unplugged the 1 and 4 spark plugs it made no difference in the way it was running. Next I tested the resistance on the coil packs. Both were an even 1.5 ohms. How can it be that the coil packs are good yet the plugs aren't firing? I also have moved plug wires around and have had no success.
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The driver's side coil spring broke, but here's the story.
When I found out there was a recall on my 2004, I called the dealership. They told me that they were not replacing the coils springs, they were only going to attach a brace or bracket in case the coil springs would fail.
Well, last night the coil broke and it was in the parking lot and not at 50mph on the road.
What about bracket fix? It was told to me that it would only prevent the coil from cutting into the tire, not fix it.
I am going to call Hyundai HQ this morning, but what should I expect? Is it unreasonable to expect to get a set of springs and have someone local do the work?
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My 2001 Santa Fe is having some major issues with rough idling, and there is a fairly significant oil leak. The check engine light is not on. In the past year it has had a new fuel pump, fuel filter, valve gasket covers, spark plugs, spark plug cables, and transmission.
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At idle, (600 RPMs, might need to bring it up?) the motor is Real rough, but doesn't stall out, just very "wobbly" Once the car is brought up to the 900-1000 RPM range everything flattens out, and at driving speeds it drives great! Pulled up to 90 mph on the high way, and passed a few cars on some back roads and everything ran great, until I hit idle.
It threw a code for the Cam Position Sensor after I tried to restart the car, and the person who work on this car before me had zip tied the connector into the sensor because he had broken it. Low and behold, you cant buy just the replacement part of the harness.
I tried to get the wires all plugged back in, and the CEL went away, but the idle was still pretty rough. Also, at idle, the oil light flickers just a bit.
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2003 Sante Fe is suddenly having a problem at stop lights or anytime the car is stopped with brakes. It feels as if the car is going to stall - or back fire. Very evident since it pulls on the brake pedal - just had back brakes replaced.
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I have a 2003 Hyundai Santa Fe. Within the last 2 months or so I have changed my timing belt, spark plugs, and all belts that needed to be changed. I notice that when I am idle at a traffic light, the car is a little rough or bumpy. Is this normal for its age, or should I be looking at something specific.
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My coworker is giving me a clean 2001 Santa Fe with 151000 miles. It was running fine then all of the sudden it lost power but was able to stutter home. I went to check it out it started fine but idled a little rough. When I revved the engine it rose to about 2500rpm and stuttered then stalled. Kind of like it was rich and choking out. It then had difficulty restarting.
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I'm having this cold start issue with my 2001 SF, but it doesn't seem to be fuel related like as the car starts fine but after about literally 1-2seconds the RPMs drop below 1k and the car will stall if I don't put my foot on the accelerator and keep it around 1000-2000 RPMs. But if I happen to make the revs go too high and let them drop again it seems like it wants to stall even easier. After about 30 seconds it smoothens out and drives almost perfectly except for a slight lack of power than normal going uphill (A.T drops to 2nd gear, sometimes 1st depending on the incline). We have had the coolant temp sensor and the fuel pressure sensor replaced. Could it be the MAF? We did clean it one time but it didn't seem to work much at all. Recently out of curiosity, I disconnected the MAF sensor and started the car it being started for a few days. No issue with idling whatsoever!.. ??
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I have a 2003 santa fe I just replaced the cat. in it because it was running so poorly. Now that I've replaced the cat it seems to be worse. The car idles real rough, and cant get it to go over 2000 rpms. No engine light. Had the codes checked and all came out fine. I pulled out the plugs and replaced with new. The car in park ran great until I put it in gear then went back to the same no power, rough idle and cant get more than 2000rpm with out a stall. Stalls but dose not die. Disconnected the pre o2 sensor no change.
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what would cause a pulsating rough idle when in park with the defrost or a/c on? when I turn it off or to any other position it's fine even when I turn if off it's fine as well? there is no Check Engine Light showing at this point.
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i have just replaced the clutch in my 2002 santa fe all went well but on the test drive i noticed the revs jumping up and down while idling at a set off lights . it was not in gear and the clutch was out. Have checked all hoses and connections. problem still there.
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I have 130K miles on my Santa Fe. I just replaced the timing belt without the water pump being replaced. Picked it up from the mechanic and the check engine light was on and it was idling very rough. Left it there for him to recheck. He said maybe he didn't plug in the Cam Sensor all the way or at all. Next day he called me and said that the cam sensor was bad and he replaced it for free. Picked up the vehicle and the idle was a little rough but got worse on the ride home.
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We are at 120K miles. The vehicle runs fine most of the time, but every once in 10-15 starts, it will rough idle or stall after a short warm up time when my wife stops at an intersection. Once she restarts it, it runs fine.
I have changed the spark plugs and wires, the fuel pump, the crankshaft position sensor (was fried) and after consulting this forum, I checked the fuel pressure regulator and the diaphragm is not leaking.
I was able to recreate the rough idle and the CEL on the dash, but my two OBDII readers said there were no codes And the bluetooth reader I am using is indicating that the following tests are not completing: Fuel System, Catalyst, Evaporative System and Oxygen Senors.
The dash CEL resets itself upon restart and does not light until the symptoms return.
After reading the Haynes Repair Manual, I am wondering about the Evaporative Emissions Control (EVAP) system? But I don't want to lead the troubleshooting.
We bought the vehicle at 60K miles and it has been mostly reliable.
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Here's the run down:
-bought 6 months ago for cheap because it wouldn't pass smog test
-changed Purge Control Valve (PCV) and it passed
-filled with gas, heard popping noises like a backfire, and coded it read the same "Bank 1 and Bank 2 running lean, like it did before the PCV and then also "Cylinder 3 Misfire" appeared.
-At this point the car started running rough, at idle, and through acceleration...sputtering uphill, and when climbing through the gears.
-Changed the plugs & wires
-NOW, it's cylinder 5 misfiring, and not nearly as bad. It's idling and running rough, acceleration has somewhat come back, but it's definitely not 100%.
Should I start with the PCV again, since it's not starting after I fill the tank, and climbing gears slow? Is there anything else I should be checking?
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Recently replaced plugs/wires on soon-to-be 10 year old '04 SF 3.5L (157K mi.) for the first time.
Plugs were OE Champion Platinum and all 6 looked identical except for excessive gap of .010 +/- due to all the miles. Replaced plugs with same as OE. Old plug wires looked good, but replaced them with aftermarket wires ( fit was as good as OE). Also replaced plenum gasket.
Problem is: engine runs rough at idle and high rpm and appears to be mis-firing. CEL is off and code reader shows no Trouble Codes stored.
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Every time i stop for gas..my 01 santa fe is hard to start..it would take 4 to 5 start before she goes, then i have to keep the rpm up, bring her to idle..after that shes ok, till the next fill up.. the only way around this is to keep her running while gassing up..while filling up she run rough idle, some time engine shuts off..then its hard to start..
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Ok, so I'm working on a 2004 Hyundai Santa Fe, 93,000 miles. The vehicle runs great! So great that you cant get it to stop running!! The problem is intermittent and generally happens after the vehicle has been running for at least 3 minutes. I turn the key off and she keeps on running (not dieseling, but running at 340-450 rpms!) I have already removed the aftermarket remote start that was installed on the vehicle thinking that was the problem, it was not. Then I went to the ignition switch and unplugged that, also to no avail! I plugged my scan tool in and can communicate with the computer and view pids while the key is on. When I turn the key off, I should loose communication. When everything acting normal and the car actually shuts off with the key, I loose communication with the computer upon turning the key off. When I turn the key off and the veh. keeps running, I do NOT loose communication with the pcm. The only way to shut the car off is to step on the gas pedal. Otherwise it'll run at 400 or so RPM for an hour or so!!
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