Santa FE SM (2001-06) :: 2004 Hyundai 2.7L - Loss Of Throttle At Random Times
May 2, 2016
I've been having trouble diagnosing a loss of throttle at seemingly random times. Sometimes while driving, especially after driving for more than 20 minutes or so, I will experience a hesitation while on the gas pedal as if I have taken my foot off the gas. It makes it impossible to drive until I pull over and unplug my TPS and then I can drive fine in manual mode. Then the next day I can plug my TPS back in, drive around fine for a bit before the hesitation happens again and then I have to unplug the TPS again and drive in manual mode. It doesn't make sense to me why it takes a bit for this hesitation to begin and why unplugging the TPS and driving in manual mode seems to fix the problem.
I've recently replaced my crankshaft position sensor, idle air control valve, purge control valve solenoid and TPS. When I recently placed the TPS, the hesitation problem and another problem I've been having recently, a high idle in park, seemed to be fixed, but then the hesitation problem popped up again. When I unplug the TPS, the hesitation disappears and I can drive fine but the high idle in park problem is back! I'm suspecting some sort of wiring problem to the TPS. I just went on a 100 mile camping trip in manual mode no problem, but I can't be driving around forever with no TPS.
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I have a 2001 F350 7.3 the truck will at random times loose power and almost shut down. A while back I had an issue with the uvch plugs and changed that out. Truck ran fine till I got some dirty fuel from a diesel tank at my friends farm. I did the hutch mod cleaned the tank and now have a frame mounted screw on filter before the pump. I cleaned the fuel bowl and changed the filter. Fuel pressure stays at 59psi and drops to 56psi wot. The truck is tuned with an edge programmer. After these mods the truck ran awesome for over 2000 miles. Now it has the above stated problem. I have fuel and hpop guages along with egt and boost. During the problem egts will increase rapidly and it seems like it is starving for fuel.
Hpop gauge reads 3300psi or above during wot and shows good pressure during these mishaps. I have auto Enginuity and I get a different reading at wot of only 2600 psi. The hpop gauge is tapped into the icp sensor per instructions and has been installed this way for a while with no issues. The tune has been on the truck for over 40000 miles. The only thing that I can come up with is it will occasionally throw a p1211 under wot or pulling my Gooseneck Dump Trailer when loaded. However it acts up sometimes and doesn't throw the code. Sometimes you can shut it off and start it back up and it's fine other times it will last for the whole day. My only guess is low pressure from the hpop but I don't reflect this from my gauge only on AE at wot. Wouldn't a bad pump act up all the time? Am I correct to think it is just the ipr?
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I was driving down the road and the car was driving great. all of the sudden I heard a clunk and the car lost power and started shuddering. I made it home and cut the car off. When I start it now, the car runs rough and stalls out. I can't get it to a place to check the codes so I am trying to self diagnose. I was thinking it might be the MAF so I took it out and cleaned it well. there is still no change in the way the car runs. it seems like the fuel isn't getting to the engine as I put my foot on the gas pedal it stalls out. I'm not too excited about buying a throttle body if it's the MAF. It could possibly be something else.
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I have a very very strange thing happening in my 2004 vw jetta 1.8t. at random times the car will lose boost and throttle response. I am not sure what it could be I have replaced quite a few parts and it still happens.
No matter what speed or how much boost the car will just drop pressure and the throttle goes numb. For example I will be cruising on the highway around 80 on 0lbs of boost or a few and then the throttle just quits, at that point I can push the throttle to the floor and no response.
To fix it I have to lift my foot off the throttle completely and then go back on to rebuild boost or pressure. There is no pattern on when it happens, its happened from 10mph to 90mph and it happened ins 8lbs of boost or in vacuum. When I lose boost or pressure the boost gauge drops the needle to the bottom of vacuum at like 30.
Things I've replace:
- diverter valve
- n75
- throttle pedal
- checked throttle body sensors
- replacing maf this week
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I've been experiencing power loss at random times while driving, idling, With almost always flickering headlights on my mkiv 1.8t gti. Also on what always seems like the exact same spot on the freeway I'm losing all power to the wheels and it feels as if my plugs aren't firing for about 10 seconds Which causes me to bog down. At which point I down shift and play the throttle until my motor then begins running normally again.
I've semi recently replaced my battery and terminals, due to corroded terminals and worn out battery. Is is possible a ecu reset could solve this problem?
Also when the power surges during driving my traction control and hand-brake lights on the tachometer will flash and the car will beep three or four times (same as when the hand-brake on beep).
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I've got an '04 VW Golf that has recently taken to occasional bouts of no throttle response from the accelerator pedal. This has happened a handful of times during the past few months and until this morning occured only while driving on the highway at a constant rate of speed (~58-60mph). What happens is the engine will start to decelerate as though I've taken my foot off the gas but my foot hasn't moved off of the accelerator. The car's a manual transmission and for no good reason I usually shift into 4th gear (out of 5th) slap down the accelerator pedal a couple time to rev the engine while the cluth is depressed between gears and the accelerator will wake up and I'll get throttle response again and all's well. This morning it happened twice on the highway and once in first gear starting from a stop at an intersection. I'm worried I may not make it home... This is Minnesota and it's very cold -- could it have something to do with the temperature?
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I have a 2004 Hyundai Santa Fe 3.5L V6 when i was driving a couple of days ago the check engine light flashed and after a while it stayed on the codes are P0300 which is a random misfire as well as a misfire in cylinder 2, 4 and 6
I replaced all 6 spark plugs and the 3 spark plug wires still the same issue. The car hesitates when accelerating when i accelerate it looks like it wants to stop the rpm goes to almost zero and then it moves and so on. the rpm goes up and down like crazy.
Sometimes it won't move past 1000 rpm I'm moving 60mph and still on 1000rpm and sometimes it works just fine like there is no issue at all. When idle the car is fine and everything seems normal it stays on 900rpm. The car has 158K miles on it.
I uploaded a video to show you what's happening to the tachometer when I accelerate [URL] ....
I'm on a limited budget I'm thinking of changing the ignition coils but i want to make sure that's what is causing the problem first because i spent 200$ to change spark plugs and wires and the mechanic didn't fix the issue.
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I have a 2004 Hyundai Santa Fe 2.4 L. Front wheel drive. Cranks over won't start, replaced crankshaft sensor & camshaft sensor, no spark. Where do I go from here?
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I have a 2007 SF SE that seems to be having multiple electrical problems. In summary, the following are happening irregularly:
1) rear passenger door will not lock with the power lock button
2) front driver door will not lock with the power lock button
3) A/C turns on by itself at random times
4) Power gas latch release will not work
As I said before, these problems happen randomly and all the things listed above will work on occasions. I have not taken any steps to troubleshoot other than looked at the relays in the engine bay which seemed to be fine.
I know that some other posts mentioned the lock actuators for the lock problems. However, I think there might be an electrical problem since all the problems seem to be related. The car is not under warranty anymore.
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I have searched and have not found any information on replacing the throttle position sensor. My Santa Fe was running normal. I changed my tp sensor and how it limps along. When I loosened the old TPS, not even removed it, I heard a noise inside the TPS. When I replaced it I adjusted the TPS to read between 9 and 10% on my reader. But when I push on the gas pedal with the key on position the percentage doesn't move. Also when I drive it now it limps along and does not accelerate.
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Codes P0210 and P0733 for throttle sensor and third gear mismatch came in.
Dealer is going to replace throttle position sensor and said the Hangar Bearing is bad needing replacement.
I was just curious how long those jobs take to do roughly?
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It started sputtering at random times a few days ago and the check engine light came on. The two codes are p0401 (blocked egr system) and p0402 (egr valve stuck open). It seems to do it most when it's cold but some days it'll do it non stop.
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2004 2.4L Hyundai Santa Fe here, died whilst travelling, lost all power and then wouldn't start. Sounds like its trying to turn over.
The fuel cut off seems to have been activated as it clicked when I pushed it but the car still wont start.
I do not have any engine management lights but when connecting the code reader I got P0320, however the code was stored but not present... and still the car will not start. I cleared the code and the code didn't re appear but the car will still not start.
As the code isn't immediately present does this mean the sensor is at fault or do I have other problems?
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When I bought the car a few weeks ago, there was a p0507 code for a high idle in park, about 1300 RPM, but sometimes shooting up to 3000 when I shifted into park and then dying down. The code goes on and off intermittently. Not that big of a deal at first. Then I started noticing that if I revved it in park it would take forever to die down to 1300, and sometimes would fluctuate around 2000. I also noticed hesitation while accelerating around 1500 RPM and the transmission hunting for gears while accelerating, as well. I noticed my throttle cable was very slack so I tightened that, and bought myself a throttle position sensor, thinking that might be the problem, but didn't install it yet.
I was driving on the freeway yesterday in cruise control and then I started losing power while my foot was on the gas. With my foot on the gas, the throttle would cut out every second. I was basically one second of throttle, one second of no throttle, all the way down the highway. Almost impossible to drive. This continued even after I turned cruise control off. I limped my way to Home Depot and installed my TPS in the parking lot, and drove most of the way home with no issues, although I still noticed a slight hesitation while accelerating. Alas, I tested cruise control again and then the throttle on/off problem started again, then I could barely drive the thing, even after cruise control was off again. I'll be returning the new TPS to Autozone today, since apparently that's not the problem. What's my next move?
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I have a problem with my 2004 Santa Fe, 2l diesel. Will try to keep this short!
When driving it suddenly 'heaves' (not sure how else to describe it), then it cuts out. I wait about a minute and then it restarts.
At first there was no 'heave' but there would be a momentary loss of power (I thought it was the clutch). Then it progressed to the 'heave' and then cut out, this happened now and then. Very quickly it started to do it every time I drove it. My neighbor mechanic blew down the fuel line, said the fuel pump in tank sounded ok, seemed to do it more when below quarter of tank.
So I kept tank topped up, it seemed ok, then on one 11 mile journey it did it 3 times, the last time the engine management light came on, crawled it home, after which it would not start at all. The computer said it was either fuel rail or coolant sensor. Neighbor replaced coolant sensor, it started ok. Tried it next day - 6 miles and it heaved and cut out again. This time no light coming on.
I've read about cam sensor, crank shaft sensor, fuel pump at back of engine...
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I have a 2004 santa fe with a 2.7 v6. I have had a little misfire issue lately. I had a major power loss with a check engine light on it lasted for just a minute before it settled itself out. Had the code pulled at a local parts store. P0301 so I checked the plugs and they looked worn out. I pulled the upper intake and replaced the plugs and wires plus the upper intake gasket. I cleared the code and that seemed to correct the problem. Two days later, same thing happened. The engine seems to be running fine now. I wiggled the wiring harness to the injector and to the coil, no change in the way it runs. I was thinking it could be an injector or a coil pack.
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My 2004 Hyundai Santa Fe with 78K miles has never had any major problems until a month ago. I was doing errands and after my second errand the car would not start. AAA came jumped it, and I took it to a local shop where they replaced the battery. They said the rest of the car seemed just fine. The next week, after gassing up, the car again would not start. It made the same sound, like the engine was trying to turn over or it wasn't accessing the fuel. A bystander thought perhaps it was the oxygen sensor.
After resting for about 10 minutes, the car started and I drove it to a Hyundai dealership. They said the fuel pump needed to be replaced. It seemed fine after the replacement. A week later, the same thing happened. The car would not start. Not after 10 minutes, not after 30. AAA again was called and after I told them about the fuel pump they thought perhaps the relay was bad. They swapped the relay with one I wasn't using and the car started.
I, again, brought the car to the dealer. They inspected the whole car. There were no codes when they hooked it up to the computer and it drove just fine. They simply replaced the relay. Last night, the car made a funny sound upon starting, almost like a hissing or light clunking. This morning the car started fine. I drove for about 5 minutes and then the car stopped accelerating and the power steering seemed off. The car then died and would not start. I was in the middle of an intersection.
After about 15 minutes the cops came and pushed my car while I was in neutral. A few minutes later the car still would not start and it was towed back to the dealer. The car has been with the dealer for over 3 hours. They have driven it, tested it, driven it, tested it while driving. Everything. And they can't replicate the problem.
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My wife has a 08 F-150 LIMITED and at random times gets a raw fuel smell through the air conditioner ducts. It will happen after we fill it up and it will happen @ a 1/2 tank. No smell under the hood and no visible leaks from anywhere. Pretty important issue to me.
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I have a 2004 Suburu Outback with a throttle positioning sensor (TPS) instead of a cable. Intermittently, I lose my throttle. At the same time my check engine light goes on and my cruise control button has a flashing light and my cruise control does not function.. I coast off the road, place the transmission in park, turn "OFF" the engine, wait 15 seconds and restart the engine. The throttle control works and I go on my merry way. After a few hours of driving, the check engine light goes out and the cruise control functions again. This incident occurs about once a week. I have 145,000 on the engine.
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Just got the girlfriend a 2002 Santa Fe and the front passenger door locking is a bit random! Sometimes it unlocks and unlocks ok from the key in the drivers door or the lock/unlock buttons, other times it half locks / unlocks (the lock button on the door panel half moves!) and other times it just ignores me all together! The cabling and cable boot from the body to the door seems in good condition (my audi A4 had that problem and you really dont wanna know about the wiring nightmare i had to fix that!!! bloody Germans!!). My feeling is that its a worn actuator.
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I am the happy owner of a white 2005 Santa Fe 2.7l with 105,000 miles on her. Trying to figure out why the dashboard clock resets itself at random.It doesn't do it while I'm in it or driving. Only when I return to it when parked at a store or wherever, or mornings. The car seems to have plenty of juice when running. New alternator and battery were installed last November. Triple-checked those parts and cleaned some connections under the hood.
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