Santa FE SM (2001-06) :: 2004 - Front Driver Side Coil Spring Broken
Dec 30, 2015
The driver's side coil spring broke, but here's the story.
When I found out there was a recall on my 2004, I called the dealership. They told me that they were not replacing the coils springs, they were only going to attach a brace or bracket in case the coil springs would fail.
Well, last night the coil broke and it was in the parking lot and not at 50mph on the road.
What about bracket fix? It was told to me that it would only prevent the coil from cutting into the tire, not fix it.
I am going to call Hyundai HQ this morning, but what should I expect? Is it unreasonable to expect to get a set of springs and have someone local do the work?
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So I have had my FX4 for almost 10 years now. I have an xtra cab, bought new summer 2004 in Connecticut. Bought it had 5 miles on odometer, as of today has almost 117k miles. We just relocated this past weekend from CT to Manatee County, Florida, my wife followed me down in her 2010 Escape. Both trucks ran perfect..easy driving cruise control on 70 most of the way except for VA where there seemed to be a state trooper every 5 miles
anyway so overall I am satisfied with my truck since I've owned it. Changed oil every 4000-4500 miles without fail, 5-20 Motorcraft semi synthetic and FL-820 S filter is all it has ever seen. Engine doesnt burn/leak a drop of oil. As far as maintenace items and repairs, I looked through my records, here's what I've done:
1) rear axle rebuilt under warranty, clutch packs were shot at 60k.
2) brakes/rotors all around at about 50k, they still as of now have plenty of meat left
3) pinion seal went at about 90k
4) fly wheel had to be replaced at about 95k that was an expensive repair
5) replaced both front window regulators
6) replaced sliding rear window, under warranty, was leaking badly.
7) idler pulley replacement
8) exhaust rotted from just in front of muffler to tailpipe, replaced.
Also was told before we left CT that front coil spring was broken? I don't know about that truck suspension seems fine but will have it looked at.
Also normal maintenance did tranny flush 4x so far, fuel filter 4x so far, on 3rd set of tires, came with BFG rugged terrain, replaced at 62k with TOYO open country, they lasted 40k, now have Goodyear Wrangler LT's, so far excellent. Air filters, a light bulb here and there, and replaced battery after 6 years just to do it.
I have NOT changed the plugs yet truck does run great but I know what can and probably will happen, I feel comfortable with a dealer doing it, I'm not mechanically inclined enough to do it. I will have a little bit of a commute to work here, so I will probably get a ford Fiesta or a focus for the drive, but no way am I getting rid of this truck!
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Boston winter roads got the best of my 2009 Camry LE, and now I have a broken spring on the driver's side front tire. I have yet to find a trusted mechanic in the area. Do I need to go to a dealer, or is it basic enough to do?
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I found a broken spring hanging in my drivers side door latch.The power lock is now inoperatable, my question is can I buy just the spring or do I have to buy the whole latch-? I'm new here and can't find the answer,also will door need to be disassembled to install the spring.
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I have a 2004 Hyundia Santa Fe. The passenger front window will not roll down from driver side switch but will from passenger switch but then will not go up on passenger side switch. I found a broken wire on driver side and repaired it. I put a test light on the wires on the passenger side and used the driver switch and the test light lights when using the up button and down button! I have already put a new master switch in and tested all switches they all work!
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My front driver side brake line broke. It had a typical double flare fitting at the caliper but at the distribution block on the other end it had a flared fitting that would be used on a industrial hydraulic unit. I took it to the NAPA store and they told me to cut the nut off the old line and put it new line and double flare it. I did and it leaks. Do I need a special fitting on the end that goes the distribution block?
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Any success story on converting 2003 or 2004 f350 with leaf spring front end to the 2005-2007 f350 coil front end is it possible?
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I opened the door yesterday, got out of the car, then when I got back in the door wouldn't close. I did end up getting it closed but it took a lot of force and there was major resistance. When I got out, there was no resistance top open about a foot opening, just enough to squeeze out. Any more than that and I would have needed a lot of force to get it open.
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Conversion from the dana 50 to the newer dana 60 with coil spring? My Dana 50 has called it quits so while my front end is already off the vehicle already why not make improvements. Ford used the 50 for 1999 to 2002 then upgraded to the 60, I'm guessing it was for a reason!
I've read this article on a similar project but the dana 60 had leaf springs as well: Dana 60 Conversion for F250 years 1986-1996 .: Articles I'd prefer coil spring, nothing more then personal preference with a bit of better ride quality. The donor vehicle is a 06 SRW F250 This is not what I'll be getting but just as an example of the parts I would get.
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I just realized my driver's side front leaf spring on my 2002 F250 has snapped. I checked the weight sticker on my truck and it weighs 5200lbs in the front. My question is the heaviest springs I found only support 2630lbs a piece, so being a 7.3 is 5200lbs a correct weight for the front of this truck? also why would Ford make springs that support only 60lbs more than the front weight? Hell I weight more than 60lbs.... Did I snap the damn thing just by climbing into the cab?!?!
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I have a noise like a broken spring, changed strut insert, top mount, checked for loose brake shield and pads. Removed both sway bar links. [URL] .....
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I have punched a snowbank and cracked a front side marker light as well as toasted a hubcap. I looked up the parts and ordered them from an online parts place. The hubcap was an easy fit and that is done. Now on to installing that marker light into the driver side front bumper in my 2012 Prius V III! On initial investigation I see coming at it from the top (under the hood) is almost impossible. Looking up at the bottom of the car it appears there is a removable maintenance panel just under it.
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When I use the remote to lock/unlock the doors the drivers side door won't activate . . . .unless it's really cold outside. The other 3 doors work year round.
Sounds weird but as the weather gets colder the lock on the drivers door will start to work. As winter turns to summer here in Illinois it starts to act up again. When it does work, it seems that unlocking works more consistently than locking.
Asked the dealer to have a look at it. They said it was a "weak actuator motor" and suggested to replace it. Sounds bogus to me.
I've tried to have a look down there but I'm afraid to take it all apart for fear I won't be able to get it all back together. Are there adjustments that can be made to the linkage or are lubrication points that might get this thing back working again . . . . . . all year long?
I also noticed that manually working the passenger side lock will lock the rear doors but won't lock the drivers door so it's not the remote. I never paid attention to whether manually working the driver side lock would lock the other doors but I think not since the buttons are right there on the drivers door.
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Unfortunately I broke off one of the wheel studs on the front drivers side of my 2010 Prius. I got a new stud from Toyota but I'm not sure exactly how to put the new one on. Looking for any steps on how to replace a front wheel stud? Not even sure how to raise calipers/remove rotor (if that's necessary to replace stud)....
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I have a 2004 SF/2.4 I4. When the car warms up, the ignition coil sparks between the rubber boot and the coil itself, drawing the spark from the plug and resulting in a misfire. This is especially apparent when the A/C is running and the car is idle-ing, resulting in the A/C turning off and a rough jumping idle. Once the car is running this is not noticeable and the A/C turns on.
I have changed the spark plugs to new autolite plugs, and the situation disappeared for a day, but now it is back. I ordered OEM NGK Laser Iridium plugs, I hope they will fix the situation. Why would the A/C matter? Next on the list will be the ignition coil and wire change, but I hope to avoid that.
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Ok I have an f 150 04 fx4. 120k miles. I was checking a drip on the transmission cooler, and noticed my passenger side coil spring is broken 2nd coil from the bottom. Truck rides well, but obviously this needs to be addressed. Break looks old since it is rusted over, I probably relocated from new England to Florida driving this down 95 with this break, scary.
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What this might be? (see pic)....
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Last year, when the passenger's side CV boot ripped and all that grease few around, it started to make that familiar clicking sound when making turns. I had a heck of a time replacing it. Did not like to doing the work.
Now, the driver's side boot is ripped. Grease everywhere. The clicking sound is just starting to be noticeable. Can I just wash out the CV joint and repack it with grease and a new boot? Or, should I just replace the CV joint?
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My front passenger leaf spring just broke on my 2000 f-350. My front springs are T code, but I was wondering if a could replace the broken one with a code X spring as a temp fix until I get a leaf spring replacement delivered?
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So it seems as if either the switch in the driver's side seat belt indicator is sticking (off, indicating my seat belt is NOT fastened even though it is), or it's broken. Although, it doesn't do this EVERY time I fasten my seat belt, it's doing it more frequently. I have to refasten it (multiple times) to get it to see it's fastened.
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I have a 2007 Prius and recently both my driver side front door and driver side rear door lock actuator failed. I browsed and found part number to replace the driver side front door lock assembly. I wasn't very confident in my ability to replace the assembly, but I decided to give it a shot, so I ordered the part. The part arrived today and my wife and I just finished successfully replacing the assembly. It was a little challenging, but now that we know how to do it we could probably do it again in half the time.
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