Santa FE SM (2001-06) :: 2004 FWD Blows 50 Amp Fusible Link
Oct 21, 2014
We have a IGN 50 amp Fusible link that keeps popping out!! If I pull it out and put it back in the car will start for about 5 seconds till the fusible link let's go then it dies!! Pull it back out and replace it, it will restart for 5 seconds again!! I unplugged about everything under the hood and still pops the fuse!! Replaced the CPU and does the same thing!! Can't hear the file pump running so I unplugged it and if you unplug the IGN 50 link, then replace I only get 4.7 volts to the pump but the link still let's go after about 5 seconds!!
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About 4 months I accidentally reversed the polarity when jumping my car and fried my 12V battery and blew the fusible link. I replaced it with an Optima yellow top but due to other issues I haven't driven the car since about that time.
Last week I got most of the other issues resolved and tried starting the car, nothing. It was reading less than a volt on the voltmeter. I used my portable jump starter and got the car started. I only drove it to the gas station (1 mile round trip) to fill my tires and back. I went to start it the next day and nothing again. I thought maybe I didn't charge the battery enough since I hadn't been driving it.
I charged it overnight using a wall charger and again the next day it wouldn't start. Yesterday I jumped it again and drove it about 20 minutes, about half at low speeds (<30 MPH) and half at higher speeds. I got home put the car in park, but still on, and checked the voltage again, about 13.8 V. Turned the car off and checked again and I could see the voltage dropping like a rock. Within about 30 seconds it was down to 6V and within another 30 seconds it was so low that I didn't have any interior lights or dash lights.
It seems to me like the battery is bad. However after I "fried" the original battery I had similar issues. In fact the reason I had to jump it in the first place is because the battery died a few times in the same day. Could something be killing the battery?
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I bought a 94 2.3 did a head job bought a rebuilt head and got it all back together hooked up the battery and blew the fusible link to the alternator. Did I screw something up? I have been rebuilding engines for a long time and never had this happen. Tested the alternator and the O'Reilly guy said that the Voltage regulator was shot putting out 17 amps and that is why the fusable link blew. I don't think that's right because the engine was not running I just hooked up the battery, and no I did not switch the pos and neg. I'm dumb but not that dumb. Any guesses?
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Son has a 2004 Hyundai Santa Fe 2.7 motor. The timing belt broke before we could replace it. Long story short, 24 valves, gaskets, timing belt, water pump, new belt tensioner and new pulleys. The motor is back together. The only problem is when you turn the ignition switch on, it blows the CPU fuse. The only electrical part we replaced was the purge valve.
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I just bought a 2004 Phaeton V8. So far, it's great.
But I'm having trouble with programming the Homelink garage door opener. The instructions in the manual are the same as other cars I've owned - hold down buttons 1 & 3 until the light blinks, then press the button you want to program while also using the remote you want the car to learn. But when I press 1 & 3, no light begins blinking - I can't even find the light on the panel!
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I've been reading up on SHM. It sounds like I need to be able to see IGN to make the most of this technique. I have the Engine Link app (can't afford SCII) loaded with the Gen 2 presets that came with the app. I can't seem to find anything to indicate that I have an option for IGN for my display screen.
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I got a SFS 2.0 Turbo 2014 about 20 days ago. The car is back with black interior and navigation package.
Since day 1 I had noticed that the fan always blows hot air, no matter what the outside temperature is. Air conditioner cools the car sufficiently, but low temperature setting on the thermostat is needed.I feel the fan is pulling hot air from the engine compartment.
I am due for a service in about 30 days.
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I drive a 2009 Santa Fe with 51000 miles on it. Recently the AC vents on the drivers side blow air that is considerably warmer than the air on the passenger side.
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I cannot get heat in the back seat area until the car has been used for an hour or so. The front vents are very hot...but the back blows cold air.
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I have a 2009 Santa Fe Limited. Dual climate control issue. The passenger side blows cold air regardless of the temperature setting or mode. How to remedy this?
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I have a 2004 F250 Lariat Crew Cab FX4 6-3/4' bed.
What is the procedure to remove the Driver's side Rear Sway Bar Link upper bolt? - the link attaches to the frame. The nut is on the inside of the frame with about 1/3" to 2/3" clearance between the frame and the fuel tank. Of course, the frame's "C" shape faces towards the inside.
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Engine will die randomly. After sitting for half hour it will restart. It has been to the dealer, it sets no codes but when it dies all lights on dash come on just like when you first start car. It has 75k on it timing belt replaced new plugs and wires. Dealer kept it 2 days and could not replicate the problem.
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My low beams won't work. High beams and fog lights work just fine. We just replaced both bulbs a few months ago so the chances are pretty slim that it's a blown bulb.
I've checked the fuses and relays. I switched the low beam and high beam relays with no luck. Still no low beams.
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Where cylinder 1 is located on my 3.5l v6 santa fe. I am replacing the heads and need to know.
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Replaced bulbs and checked fuses ... if u bump high beams they will flash ...
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Came out of my house and my 04 Sante Fe will not stay running. It worked fine on the way home form work won't stay started now. You can give it gas and everything but it just dies out after a few moments. I checked most of the basics...
-Fuel pump runs when key is on
-Added gas, over 1/4 tank
-Checked engine fuses
-removed air filters and hoses
-removed mass air intake unit
-down to throttle body and such,
-to keep running by spraying gas directly into engine?
-removed fuel pump under seat
-checked mesh filter and connections
-clean no build up no visual problems with pump or filter
-checked cut off switch, not activated
-removed gas line from injector rail getting good "squirting" from rail
I have asked everyone and most think it is some kind of sensor but I have no light on and I have put it on the OBII and no error codes are found unless I un plug one of the many sensors, which i have done to a few to check them (air mass intake).
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I have a 2004 Santa Fe v6 3.5 L engine. sometimes when I go to crank it I get nothing but clicks. We've tested the battery, starter and alternator and all 3 are fine. We replaced the solenoid but it still isn't working. My husband was able to get it started one time by beating on something (starter) under the car. This has been going on for about 3 weeks now. Now it's not starting at all.
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A few months ago maybe more my wife told me that her car (2004 Santa Fe 3.5L) seems like it is going to stall when sitting sill at idle, in gear with AC on. I finally got around to looking at it. Ran a diagnostics and no codes were found. Ran a little rough but not really bad. Had her run some fuel injector cleaner through a tank of gas. I hadn't heard anything more from her about it. We decide to drive one night to a concert with friends and I was driving. The surging was very evident and by the time we got home that evening I had an engine light.
The next morning I ran a diagnostics and had a code for a #1 plug misfire. Checked the plugs and sure enough the #1 plug was toast. I went ahead and changed all plug, checked all vacuum hoses. Even changed air filter. Took it for a long drive in the mountains for a couple hours. No codes and everything seemed to be working as advertised. That was last week. Today it started happening again just not as bad.
Again, the problem only occurs when in gear and AC on. If AC is on engine is fine no fluctuation. Steady RPM at about 780-795. So I figured hey she is probably due for some new belts so I will check the AC clutch thinking that if the clutch was seizing it could cause some issues. Not so lucky. Everything was fine. The belts did need to be changed so not a total loss. The idler to the power steering is a little off but not too bad (have one coming to replace any way). I put everything back together ran another diagnostics and again nothing.
So I was wondering could a faulty alternator cause this. I started the car put it in gear and loaded it with lights, high beams, rear defroster, radio, hazards etc.. everything accept AC and the problem started again. I turned everything off and left it in gear and the problem went away. I placed it in park loaded it up again, including AC and the problem came back.
Any other possibilities. While I loaded everything I had a meter hooked to the battery and voltage dropped from 13.97 to about 12.5. Once I turned everything off voltage went back up.
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I just picked up a 2004 Sante Fe with 150K for my daughter. "she loves it" I love to work on cars so didn't mind the mileage. I have shifting issues so I replaced the input/output sensors, when I started driving it it was back to what seemed normal with a little hesitation between shifts, now it's back to lunging while in 3 or 4th gear. Strangely to me the shiftronic works great without issues.
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Recently acquired a 2004 santa fe 3.5l w 99K miles on it. at idle/low rpm i hear a slight gurgling type noise from the engine. I can try to get a video. I recently did an oil analysis and they found no trace metals to indicate engine failure (high trace metals indicating bearing failure etc). i was a few PPM high on iron (16 when universal avg is 10) but blackstone explained it may simply be the way this engine runs and not to be alarmed. they stated an overall good report with strong results. I can try to post the report if wanted. The engine feels pretty strong overall. I recently had timing belt, drive s belts, spark plugs done to bring it current on service.
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My mother in law has a Santa Fe 2004 with a ~2.4. The AC compressor quit working over the winter. The AC compressor does not react to turning on the AC button.
I checked the fuses. I also tried changing out the AC relay with another one and it still didn't respond. The relay also didn't sound as though it was clicking over. The AC indiacator light is working.
Could it be the actual button has failed or is there a way to check if the button is functioning?
How does the compressor know to engage? Is there a place I can test 12v at the compressor?
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