Santa FE SM (2001-06) :: 2004 - ECU Fuse Under The Hood Keeps Blowing When Ignition Turned On
Jan 14, 2011
I have a 2004 Hyundai Sante Fe 2.4L that keeps blowing the ECU fuse under the hood when the ignition is turned on. We have replace the fuel pump and the inertia switch. I have tested the relay, ignition failure sensor, both coils and O2 sensor wiring.
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I have a 1996 geo metro that I have been working on for the last couple days. The problem that I have been running into is the ignition fuse keeps blowing the instant that the key is turned.
This kills the power to the fuel pump as well as the power to the ECM. (killing all the idiot lights). The engine still cranks over and all the accessories still work.
I have tried disconnecting the fuel pump wires as well as the ECM and the ignition module to try and narrow down the problem but the fuse still blows about 2 seconds after I turn the key.
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Ok, so I'm working on a 2004 Hyundai Santa Fe, 93,000 miles. The vehicle runs great! So great that you cant get it to stop running!! The problem is intermittent and generally happens after the vehicle has been running for at least 3 minutes. I turn the key off and she keeps on running (not dieseling, but running at 340-450 rpms!) I have already removed the aftermarket remote start that was installed on the vehicle thinking that was the problem, it was not. Then I went to the ignition switch and unplugged that, also to no avail! I plugged my scan tool in and can communicate with the computer and view pids while the key is on. When I turn the key off, I should loose communication. When everything acting normal and the car actually shuts off with the key, I loose communication with the computer upon turning the key off. When I turn the key off and the veh. keeps running, I do NOT loose communication with the pcm. The only way to shut the car off is to step on the gas pedal. Otherwise it'll run at 400 or so RPM for an hour or so!!
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Son has a 2004 Hyundai Santa Fe 2.7 motor. The timing belt broke before we could replace it. Long story short, 24 valves, gaskets, timing belt, water pump, new belt tensioner and new pulleys. The motor is back together. The only problem is when you turn the ignition switch on, it blows the CPU fuse. The only electrical part we replaced was the purge valve.
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I have a 2009 Corolla LE and the radio does not work. It keeps popping the fuse for the radio under the hood. Is this a common problem? If not any system wiring diagram? I am about to take the car on a big trip and if I cant get the radio to function....its gonna be a long ride...
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fuse #11 in the battery junction box under hood keeps blowing, the last time I put a fuse in it blew immediately, key was off and lights off. Fuse is for parking lights, dash light and I/P(whatever that is) and switch illumination lights. I have to start following all wires to find bad spot. May just put in piece of metal and watch for smoke...
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I have had this car for sum yrs never had any problem a couple months back while driving it would just shut off. Well come to find out my ign fuse would be blowing. I would replace it and it would start up and run just fine. Since then my daughter owns the car and it happened again and she replaced the fuse and it started up fine but while out of town it just shut off and now even if you replace the fuse it just blows. Just as you turn the key, it blows. So i did sum research and replaced the ignition switch. Tryed to start it and it still blows so im at my wits end. If I knew what every component that fuse ran , i could figure it out by process of elimination. I have the Chilton book but i still can't seem to find what all components that one ign fuse runs. It is a 94 grand am 3.1 v6....
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Need to diagnose this before I start ripping wires:
Truck started blowing the # 8 fuse under the hood tonight (15 amp #8 - trailer tow electronic brake illumination, park lamps, trailer tow park lamp relay coil fuse) which also controls the dash board lights (can't see gauges at night) and the tail light lights (brakes lights work) are out too. Figure I have a short somewhere.
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The dome light/under hood light keeps blowing the fuse. I can't tear the entire interior out to try and chase down the short. Just wondering if any common area this circuit shorts out!
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As the title states I have a 2001 f250 with the 5.4 4x4 and lately the auto headlight / overdrive fuse keeps blowing. Both seem to function just fine but a couple of days later the fuse will be blown. I am not functioning the OD button when it blows so I'm guessing its something with the headlights. What else does that fuse protect?
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I have a '96 Dodge Stratus that keeps blowing fuse #20, which is for the fuel pump and the ignition. How to isolate the problem? This happens as soon as the key is turned on. The car has 140,000 miles and runs excellent otherwise.
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Just noticed I have no more horn... I had car alarm issues for a while and the alarm would sound all day in the parking garage while I was at work (was keeping the car unlocked at home...) Finally fixed the hood pin.
Going back to the horn, the horn fuse was burned in the hood relay box, and when I replaced it and tried the horn again, it burned again... Where to start? Do I go for new relays, new horns, new wiring or all of the above...
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I have a 06 Mercury Mariner and this past week fuse #26 keeps blowing turning the HVAC blower motor off. I replaced the blower motor since i had one already in the garage and same thing is happening. The AC will run for awhile and in about 10/15 mins the fuse will blow. Fuse #26 is the Climate control system mode switch, are these known to go bad? Is this the part I should replace or look for other problems IE compressor?
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I have a 07' hyundai santa fe and recently I had a 10 amp fuse blow labeled A/CON and so I replaced it and it worked for about 2-3 weeks and it blew again, and so I'm getting more fuses Monday to see if it keeps working, but from what I read online it looks like the field coil is the culprit, I tried to read the ohms from the relay and got .5 kohms (which I see its supposed to be 3-4ohms) but i have a crappy multimeter and I'm not sure if that's right anyway.
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My 2010 Sante Fe started blowing the BCM 1 fuse.The vehicle will not even crank over. Its at the dealer for the 3rd time time this week. 1st time thought it was a faulty fuse, 2nd time replaced the drivers door lock actuator.
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I have 04 santa fe with the 3.5 l engine that just started blowing white smoke out the exhaust. I didn't see any smoke when I test drove it and all. but previous owner said that a/c compressor blown which i replaced etc (but found out it was the connector that was needing to be replaced so still have old comp when doing the a/c compressor i saw it has been leaking from valve cover gasket (front can't really see the rear).
I changed oil on it about a week after i got it looked good then. about 3 weeks after that it needed some oil about a qt low, then just last month i noticed a little bit of smoke nothing big and there was barely any oil in it. (oil light came on)... did another oil change and put 4 quarts of oil in it.. now it is smoking more and more smells like burning oil and something else (oil was real low again put 2 qts in to take it just over half). when i check the oil off the dip stick it does not appear to have any color change (not milky or anything).
I am thinking it could have a bad head gasket too (besides the valve cover). BTW it runs good except for the gas mileage kinda dropping a little bit. very strong doesn't not appear to have any pressure drop in cylinders or miss firing. NO codes showing up. So i am at a loss on what it is. (figure head gasket would case pressure loss). I did notice it was low on coolant but has not over heated (put in about 2 quarts of 50/50 coolant). What it is and why it appears to be going thru so much oil.
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It was blowing cold and stopped. Minutes later it started again and then stopped. This went on for a week and then stopped altogether. Car has 190,000 miles. Is it compressor, clutch or relay....
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I have a 2004 SF/2.4 I4. When the car warms up, the ignition coil sparks between the rubber boot and the coil itself, drawing the spark from the plug and resulting in a misfire. This is especially apparent when the A/C is running and the car is idle-ing, resulting in the A/C turning off and a rough jumping idle. Once the car is running this is not noticeable and the A/C turns on.
I have changed the spark plugs to new autolite plugs, and the situation disappeared for a day, but now it is back. I ordered OEM NGK Laser Iridium plugs, I hope they will fix the situation. Why would the A/C matter? Next on the list will be the ignition coil and wire change, but I hope to avoid that.
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Have 2 problems that are giving me major problems.....especially with 100 degree heat in Dallas.
1. Ac stopped blowing cold last night out of blue. Still blows just not cold. Replaced bad fuse and drove for 5 minutes. Blew again. Checked out the control/ circuit board but looks ok. Really cant afford dealer.
2. Check engine light problem for months. Gas gauge wasn't working. Replaced fuel sending units and it fixed that but still light. Code says p441. Dealer said need solenoid valve. Replaced both the solenoid valve and the purge control valve. Still check engine light.
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01 Elantra, once warmed up to running temp starts to run like a pig & wont idle, has new plugs/leads.
Funny thing is there is no engine check light, in fact it doesn't even come on for the 6 seconds when the ignition is first turned on at all.
Secondly I have OBD2/ELM327 with scanpro but it doesn't connect to the ECU.
We put it into a shop & they claim they were able to connect to ecu but gave no codes which I find a bit strange.
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This fuse controls the interior lights, power windows, and the brake pedal shifter release. I noticed the problem when the vehicle would not shift out of park.
I replaced #15 fuse (5amp) and everything worked fine however several hours later with the vehicle simply parked the fuse blew again.
Appears to be a "short" of some kind but it seems to take several hours for the fuse to blow.
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