My vehicle is a 2004 XG350L with 120,900. I've got a clicking sound at start-up, especially in the cold, coming from the cam cover. It goes away after the engine is running for a while. What could possibly be causing this? How do I fix it?
View 2 RepliesThis past winter I started having trouble with my '06 Santa Fe where I would turn the key to start my car and nothing would happen. No cranking, no clicking, no sound. My lights turn on fine, radio, everything else works just fine. Sometimes it won't start for 30+ minutes, and sometimes I'll just try a second time and it'll start up right away.
Last winter when this happened my check engine light came on and so I took it to the dealership and they said it was the crank position sensor that needed replaced. For whatever reason I didn't get it fixed and have been driving my car with no problems whatsoever for 10 months or so, until this weekend when my no start issues started again. The check engine light is on again and it's the same code for the crank position sensor.
I believe I will definitely get the crank sensor fixed this time, but could the issue possibly be anything else? Bad starter? Ignition switch? My mechanic can't give me a definite answer because every time I take it to the shop it starts up just fine for him.
I had the head gasket replaced along with all the other gaskets that come in the kit. new radiator, water pump, thermostat and thermostat gasket. blew head gasket at 78,000 miles. So now that has been taken care of, slowly everything else is going bad. recently, i pulled up in front of someones house and my suv turned off. When I tried to start it again it made a clanking sound and would not start. AAA'd it home and pulled the timing cover where the source of the sound was coming from. Seen the tensioner pulley loose and the belt loose. got it back on tdc and still does not start. the cranking over sound is lagging and sounds whiny. thought maybe was out of gas so i got gas and now when i try to start it it still is winding but it backfired and there was smoke behind the upper intake and still wont start. It wants to start, but doesn't.
View 11 RepliesI have a 2004 Santa Fe with about 85,000 miles. I went to go to work today and it would not start. Just clicking. So I jumped it and it started right up. On My way to work I noticed all the lights were dim. I turned on the turn signal and all the gages went dead and the transmission started to shift rough. Than the radio started to cut in and out and than the gauges on the dash started to turn on and off. I just replaced the taillight, but drove it for a few days with no problems. Just thought I would mention that.
When I arrived at work, parked it and turned the car off, it won't start back up.
I replaced blower switch last year a couple of years ago. I recently starting to get clicking noise from blower relay, and fan turns off then comes back on.
Question:
1- Problem more likely to be from the relay or the fan switch? Should I just replace the relay?
2- I can see and touch the fan relay, but how do I get to it to replace it? What dis-assembly is required?
I have a 2001 Santa Fe with around 140,000 miles on it. I've had my share of problems with it, but the last couple of years have been fine until this morning. I tried to start it and appeared to have full battery power, but it would not turn over. Instead of a clicking sound, it was more of a whining sound it made while it tried to start. I took the battery into AutoZone and they told me it was dead, so I bought a new one and replaced it after cleaning the connector cables. The same thing is still happening with the new battery. I've attempted to jump it as well.
View 3 RepliesTwo weeks ago my car would not start, so I had a friend try and jump the battery. This battery wouldn't hold a charge, I took it into O'Reilly Auto Parts and they said the battery was shot. I put the new battery they recommended, the car ran fine for about 5 days. I took the battery back to O'Reilly and had them test the battery, it was too low to start the car, so they charged it and sent me on my way. The car ran fine for the rest of the day. The next morning the car would not start again, so I called the auto parts store and they recommended switching out my alternator. We switched out the alternator and the car fired right up, it ran perfectly (lights, heater, radio, etc) until yesterday.
While driving down the street, I noticed the radio head unit flicker, then it shut off. The car kept driving for about 2-3 city blocks, then all the lights shut off (dash lights, headlights, tail lights, brake lights). I turned onto a side street and the car couldn't go above 10-15 mph, it seemed. The speedometer and other gauges started going berserk, followed by a ton of dash lights coming on. The car basically rolled to a stop. I put it in park, turned the key to off and had it towed to my house. When I turn the key to accessory, all the lights work, as well as the heater and radio. But when I turn the key to start the car, a rapid-clicking sound comes from under the hood.
My 2004 Santy 3.5L (I am the original owner) just turned 91.4K miles and all of a sudden a VERY LOUD Engine Knocking sound came from the top of the engine. I have been changing my own oil since new with synthetic Mobil 1 and a new filter every time, and I never had any issues. I changed it last week at 90K prior a Spring Break trip (1350 miles).
Then yesterday after I let her rest for 1 day, I took the kids to school and within 10 miles of my house the ticking HARD loud noise started happening. I pulled over near a shop (within 1 block of where the noise started) and they said...don't drive it it sounds like a lifter collapsed, or a rod bearing or something big...
I had her towed to the dealer and the first thing they told me is to gather all the oil change receipts and a "manifesto" and they asked me how often I change the oil... I said every 5K miles. I change my own oil and have done since day 1.
BTW, Timing Belt, Water Pump, tensioners, belts, coolant, spark plugs and coils were changed last year at 77K miles.
The car should still be covered under the 10year/100K Powertrain and I believe they are trying to build a case so Hyundai can cover this or not...
They still need to tell me what's wrong... I change my own oil so I don't have receipts for "oil changes" and I have a log of when oil was changed...
My mother has a '04 Santa Fe 3.5. Her automobile makes a rattling/grinding sound when around 1000rpms/idle. However, the sound disappears when accelerating and drives like a charm. The sound returns once again around 1000rmps at idle or stop. I have changed the oil pan, replaced oil and filter and even put in a new battery. I'm not an aficionado when it comes to Hyundais (Subaru driver here).Car also has 180k miles.
View 6 RepliesI have a 2004 Hyundai Santa Fe 2.4 L. Front wheel drive. Cranks over won't start, replaced crankshaft sensor & camshaft sensor, no spark. Where do I go from here?
View 1 RepliesI'm working at summer camp with limited access to my mechanic and information on what i can do. I went to move my car today and when I put the car into reverse the shift was very stiff it went, and moved in reverse the same happened when putting it into drive. The vehicle drove fine the few feet i needed to go but then was sticky shifting into park. I thought I had it in gear all the way but i couldn't turn the vehicle off. I finally got it to turn off (I'm honestly not sure how) and so i tried to start it again to see if it was just a fluke thing... it wasn't. my car would not start. the radio a/c and basic lights came on but the engine did not. there was no clicking noises of anything. a friend and i tried opening up the hood to see if anything looked out of place of did something wrong when trying to start it but we didn't see anything.
View 1 RepliesSanta fe 2.7litre 2004 240000km... My santa fe won't start, after check we found no power at the fuel pump. we change pump, we found a bad contact at the remote starter connection. we decide to cut the wires of remote starter. after the car start and ride 1 day, stop with check engine, towing
We take off the remote starter and disconnect all wire of this remote starter. The car start and stop. After that bizarre problem, the park light stay open, and the window can be up and don't with no key in the ignition!!!!
We check fuse relay etc, all wire of the old remote starter and we take off battery and rebuilt the ground. We still have the same problem; when we tried to start at acc, everything seam normal but the wipers run at off position and when we turn the key for starting , wiper stop , radio close.
Like we have a ground problem. We change the ignition little baril now we think the computer is maybe dead. I double check all remote starter wire and every thing seem ok !!!!!
2004 2.4L Hyundai Santa Fe here, died whilst travelling, lost all power and then wouldn't start. Sounds like its trying to turn over.
The fuel cut off seems to have been activated as it clicked when I pushed it but the car still wont start.
I do not have any engine management lights but when connecting the code reader I got P0320, however the code was stored but not present... and still the car will not start. I cleared the code and the code didn't re appear but the car will still not start.
As the code isn't immediately present does this mean the sensor is at fault or do I have other problems?
Just recently my 2004 Santa Fe 2.7 V6 started having problems when starting on cold days. I live In PA and it just started to dip below 40 degrees. When I go to start my vehicle it will crank over longer like its is not getting fuel or something else. It will eventually start and when I turn it off quickly it will start up fine or after it is warm it will start up normal. When the vehicle sits for some hours and its cold outside it will have trouble starting again. The battery is fine had it tested and cca are just below what the norm is for the battery. Today the temperature was 52 and the vehicle started up just fine with no hesitation or prolonged start.
Another thing that happens when its cold out is right after you put the vehicle in drive and give it gas to start moving it will chug a couple of times before it will have full power then its fine. This has only been happening in the winter. I didn't have any problems with the chugging in the summer.
My 2007 Hyundia Santa Fe has an erratic knocking/clicking sound when idling & has for about 6 months or so. Other than the clicking noise it drives just fine. I am wondering if this may be a result of a bad oil change experience I had in 2012. I'll explain ....
When driving home, once the car had warmed up, my oil pressure warning light came on whenever I came to a stop or idling. I thought this was strange but thought maybe it had to do with new oil fill & would go away.
All I knew was I didn't have the problem before the oil change - nor have I ever in all the time I have owned the car - seen the oil pressure light come on and stay on once the car is started. So I brought the car into Hyundai as soon as I could to explain the situation. They opened the oil filter compartment and quickly realized that whoever changed the filter neglected to put back a part that sits on top of the filter that regulates the oil pressure (only a $15 part without which the damage & cost of driving without is potentially huge).
There is more, but I think you get the drift. So, I am wondering if possible damage as a result of that faulty oil change might have something to do with my current problem or is it not possible given the time/km between when that happened and now? The car had just over 80,000 km at the time and currently has aprox 105,000. I have properly maintained the oil etc since that as well as prior to.
I found the one way valve at the filler neck that seems to be installed backwards and turn it around, now fuel flows much faster and no clicking mid fueling.
WP_20140921_005 by mpe-9, on Flickr
It was pointing in the opposite direction as it is now.
I want to change the glow-plugs on my 2004 Santa Fe CRDI to see if it cures its rough/smokey start up, but I am not sure of their location. I think they might be under the intercooler, but I don't want to strip it all down to find out they are not there.
View 8 RepliesI've got a 2004 Elantra, 4 Door Sedan. My wife drove it yesterday and parked it. She later attempted to start it, and it won't start. When she turns the key, the car makes whirring sound like it's about to start up and gets to the point just to where it should turn over, but never does. Lights come on, etc, so it appears it's not a battery issue. We're not super mechanically inclined, but sometimes things like this can be easy fixes.
On another quick note: her car had it's engine light come on a few weeks ago. Took it to the car parts store and read it as a catalytic convertor issue. It went away after she refilled up on gas, so we figured maybe it was some bad gas.
Drove my son's '01 Santa Fe and the AC is not cooling. The compressor seems to be working but there is a clicking sound coming from under the dash on the passengers side. The clicking is louder when you turn up the speed of the fan. The coolant does not need to be charged.
View 2 RepliesMy 3003 Santa Fe AWD has an issue with the blower fan. It stops, then starts working and clicking can be heard behind the dash when this happens. The clicking seems to increase when the climatization switch (the one that switches the air to the front vents, foot wells, windshield, etc) is turned off. When it clicks while the switch is on the off position, the blower blows for a split second every time the click is audible. It kind of turns itself on/off. Before I start replacing parts, I suspect the fan relay to be the culprit, but I'm not sure.
View 2 RepliesI have a 2004 Hyundai Santa Fe 3.5. I just changed the spark plugs and wires and now I hear a clicking coming from the middle coil pack. At first I could see it arcing on the bottom to the metal part that holds the plug wire. I removed it and added some dielectric grease and the arcing seemed to stop, but the clicking noise is still happening. Does this indicate a bad ignition coil or do I just need to add more dielectric grease? The idle is still a little rougher than I would like, but I don't want to just throw parts at it.
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