Santa FE SM (2001-06) :: 2004 - AC Noise Every 30 Seconds But Air Still Works
Jul 3, 2013
I have an Air Conditioning issue on my 2004 Santa Fe, 2.4L 5-speed manual with 208,000km on it. I've never had any work done on my AC since I bought it new. Never had a problem with it and even as I write this is works just fine and blows ice cold air.
The problem started a couple of weeks ago when I noticed this very brief "higher pitched burping sound" coming from under the hood that lasts for just a second, and only when the AC is on and only if the RPM's are above idle. It sounds like a "bloop" for lack of a better description. When it happens, the RPM's drop one mark on the RMP gauge for a moment and there is obvious strain on the compressor. Air remains ice cold, everything still works, but this occurs every 30 seconds or so while driving.
While stopped I can rev the motor to just above idle, say 2000rpm and engage one of the defrost settings and get the "bloop" sound to occur almost every time. The top thicker AC pipe leading into the firewall from under the hood (the one that gets cold to the touch) seems to be part of the problem. At least if I am touching this pipe when it makes this "blooop" sound I can feel the vibration from the "bloop" in this pipe.
I've already had a garage replace my AC belt which I just had replaced a month ago, and checked the pullies and tension and all is okay. So it's definitely coming from the AC system and I can feel a vibration during the "blooop" sound on that pipe that gets cold and goes through the firewall. The sound does not occur when the AC is not on.
Also, when I am driving and it occurs every 30 seconds I do feel a slight decrease in the smoothness of the ride and like I said when it does this the RPM's will drop one mark on the gauge, which I'm assuming is the strain on the motor trying to engage the compressor when it's probably already up to pressure.
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I've owned my 2003 Santa fe v4 for about a year and a half now. One thing that has always bothered me in the fact my air condition works on only two out of four levels. Level 2 and Level 3 work perfectly, but level 1 and level 4 dont work, and have never worked.
I've gotten a lot of things replaced, but never bothered with this as I barely use it anyways (windows down + high speed = just as good).
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I have 2005 Santa fe. I replaced the battery about 1000 km (about 600 miles) ago. Interior lights are bright. Now the car won't start, starter doesn't crank at all. At first I thought that it's an immobilizer problem, but not so sure now.
Could you tell me how Hyundai's immobilizer works. Some other cars starts but then turns off if immobilizer is on. Is it the same thing with Santa Fe?
I read from the manual that immobilizer-light should blink if immobilizer is on. I have not watched the dashboard lights so accurately before this. When I turn key to position "on", the immobilizer-light turns on (it doesn't blink). Is it supposed to do so and turn off when the car is running? Or is that a sign that immobilizer is on?
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2003 Santa afe 2.7 litre: So for some reason the key ignition cylinder light no longer works, but no issues with the ignition at all. What powers the light, is there a specific part of the cylinder I need to check or replace or do I have to replace the whole cylinder. Would a another cylinder I pick up from the junk yard work?
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I'm trying to troubleshoot an odd issue.
When the lever is in low beam mode I have no headlights or fog lights. (parking lights fine.)
When the lever is forward in high beam mode I have no headlights or fog lights. (parking lights fine.)
But if I hold the lever back in "fash the high beam" mode the high beams turn on. This got me home last night, but I don't know where to start looking for the issue?
Faulty relay? Faulty switch? Something else?
(2004 Santa Fe)
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My car has the same issue, its a 2001 santa 2.4 . Its starts and then shut off after 3 seconds. camshaft was replaced twice already. still same issue, die after 3 seconds. everything seems to be fine.
What about fuel pressure at the rails? If the pump runs for a moment when the key is turned to the on position then when cranking it stops. That would let the engine start and run for about three seconds. Could it be the ignition switch?
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I own a 2.7 L v6 Santa Fe, 2004 with almost 50k miles on it.
When I accelerate and hit approximately 1.9k RPM I can hear a light grinding noise underneath the car. This happens both in 2nd and 3rd gear. So as it's accelerating up I can hear it, and when the car shifts up and the RPMs drop it will make the noise again as it passes through the same RPM range.
The noise is always there at 1.9k to approx 2.1k RPMs.
Also of note is that the sound is either gone or significantly reduced after driving around for a while. I don't notice it after freeway driving, for example.
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My beloved Hyundai Santa Fe,2006 model's engine light came up. The engine starts and than about 10 seconds after cuts out straight away. What to do. I have always taken care of this car and being serviced well.
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Left my 2002 SF 2.4 with someone to replace clutch. Calls me after the job to say it doesn't run!
Codes P0100 and P0340.
Maf is new. I had a Cam sensor in stock. Nil fix.
Have changed out recently;
Fuel Pump
Coil packs
CPS
MAF
and just now, the Cam sensor.
It starts right up then shuts off, does not slowly sputter and die.
I asked him to go over the wires and connectors. He could have stressed a cable while pulling the tranny. I do have the old MAF that I could try, but doubtful it would fail at the same time as a clutch job. Now wishing I had done the clutch myself!
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I'm having this cold start issue with my 2001 SF, but it doesn't seem to be fuel related like as the car starts fine but after about literally 1-2seconds the RPMs drop below 1k and the car will stall if I don't put my foot on the accelerator and keep it around 1000-2000 RPMs. But if I happen to make the revs go too high and let them drop again it seems like it wants to stall even easier. After about 30 seconds it smoothens out and drives almost perfectly except for a slight lack of power than normal going uphill (A.T drops to 2nd gear, sometimes 1st depending on the incline). We have had the coolant temp sensor and the fuel pressure sensor replaced. Could it be the MAF? We did clean it one time but it didn't seem to work much at all. Recently out of curiosity, I disconnected the MAF sensor and started the car it being started for a few days. No issue with idling whatsoever!.. ??
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2002 Sante Fe, 2.7L Belt squeals for about 10 seconds when the vehicle is first started up (engine cold) in the morning. Doesn't do it any other time until next morning. I had this problem 6 months ago and replaced the belt (OEM) and Dayco Tensioner. Now I have same issue again! What gives?
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New here - 2004 Hyundai Santa Fe 2.4L Autostick//great car so far, but this is annoying me!
I can't feel any vibration, I just bought the vehicle and wondering where this noise might be coming from? If you rev the engine over 3k there is a strange vibrating/humming/rattling?? noise but you can't feel any vibration. I was thinking it might be the plastic cover on the engine or maybe something loose? I've already had the belt tensioners/belts checked out and that is not the issue.
It also sounds like a ricer when accelerating heavily (but from inside the cabin) there aren't any exhaust leaks at least I don't think so...
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2004 Santa Fe, clunking noise in drive or reverse. checked brakes and cv joints, replaced drivers front and still making the noise. Transfer case was a little low on fluid but not much. Put up on stands and turn wheels with no noise. Put in drive or reverse while in the air and rear wheels sit still. It is a 4wd so I would think that all 4 tires would be turning. While in the air the front both turn and no noise is made.
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New post for a better problem. It was a hot day today in vegas, but my santa fe was running at normal temp (I double checked with my analyzer), running great. When I got home I turned the key off and took it out of the ignition, all the electrics went out (lights, gauges, etc.) yet the car was still running. It took about 5 seconds or so for it to wind down and stop.
2001 Santa Fe, 2.7ltr, 120,000 mi., 2 wheel drive, great shape, no codes.
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For about a year now my 04 santa fe whines after running for a long ride. We can never get it to do it to bring to dealership to have them look at since it only does it after long rides. We have had the power steering and transmission flushed and that worked a little while during the fall and winter but now that the weather is getting warmer it started again. What this could be?
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I have a 04 santa fe , which slowly started whining which was diagnosed a power steering pump, when replaced the problem got worse and it became very hard to steer. Steering rack was the next diagnosis, replaced and another new pump. Now its so hard to steer and the whining has returned. Looking in the reservoir the fluid seems to be moving good with no bubbles??
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I replaced blower switch last year a couple of years ago. I recently starting to get clicking noise from blower relay, and fan turns off then comes back on.
Question:
1- Problem more likely to be from the relay or the fan switch? Should I just replace the relay?
2- I can see and touch the fan relay, but how do I get to it to replace it? What dis-assembly is required?
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I recently purchased a 2011 Santa Fe SE with the 3.5 V6 Engine. When I start it up for the first time in the morning or after its been sitting for a few hours, the engine sounds likes it's insides are rattling for about 10 seconds or so... I believe the lifters are probably pumping up and it's a valve train noise... but is this normal? I don't like this sound. the previous owner used Mobil 1 synthetic oil and that is what is in there now. Is this a good choice for this engine? Is there an oil filter with a check valve that can be used to hold pressure to the valve train on start up? Is this cartridge type oil filter all that is used on these engines?
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As the title says the 2004 Elantra only has a/c at idle and low speed. It started with the a/c stopping, and a mechanic gave me as story about the wiring going to the compressor being faulty. He jumped a wire from the drivers side fan to the compressor. It turned on the compressor and I had cold air again. or so i thought.
Now, it's cold at idle or slow around town stuff, but as soon as I get on the highway it stops working and blows outside temp air. Is it the compressor? If not, I wondered if the fan (drivers side) is turning at highway speeds and not back on till I stop.
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Winter is coming and I often leave the car running in the morning when stopping a few minutes to drop off the kids, etc. (otherwise it all fogs up and I need to wait a few minutes again before I can leave).
Issue is, when the santa fe engine is running, if I close the door, the car beeps for like 5 seconds, every time I close a door. (Close my door, beepppp, get the kid, beeeeeepppppp, get the bag, beeeepppppppppp) and then, I cant lock the doors so I have to leave the car unlocked after it has beeped 3x 5 seconds to alert anyone around that the doors are unlocked and that it's still running.
Hyundai is supposed to install my remote starter next week, which at least will fix the issue of being unable to leave the car running with the doors locked, but the beeping all the time is REALLY ANNOYING. I KNOW THAT MY CAR IS STILL RUNNING. Dealer is telling me they cant disable the beep.
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98 f150 4.2l imrc quits working after 30 secs or so. Valves are good,linkage is good, vacuum lines good, electric vacuum switch/valve on r/h side of intake good, power to that switch/valve is there, loosing ground from computer??? What tells the computer to operate these valves?
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