Santa FE SM (2001-06) :: 2004 3.5LD Warning Lights Came On / Slight Shudder In Drive Line
Aug 14, 2010
I own a 2004 Santa Fe 3.5L AWD and recently when ever I drive at a highway speed 65mph or greater the ABS and Traction lights come on as well as the AWD indicator which lights up green and blinks. When this happens I feel a slight shudder in the drive line and I no longer have AWD, ABS or Traction control functioning. This condition continues until I stop and turn off and re-start the truck at which time everything is back to normal. It does not happen around town and I have had my local garage check for stored codes in the computer and there are none listed. We have also inspected the drive line on a lift and everything looks dry and fine. Other than that this truck runs and drives great.
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I started my car today and these lights came on and stayed on battery light parking brake / brake level warning light and the fuel warning light its a santa 2.0 fe 2004 ... What it could be
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I have an '02 Santa Fe GLS V6 2WD. I am having a strange problem and do not know what it could be. When car is cold, it starts up and runs with no problems. After about 15-20 mins, there is a slight hesitation or studder. RPM's drop slightly and shutters. When i accel, engine studders, then runs fine. This only happens when at idle in drive. At highway speeds there is no problem. What can this be?
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Ok here's the situation. 2004 Santa Fe 2.7 AWD 170,000 miles.
I recently had to replace the front passenger side Drive axle. That was a piece of cake. However, since then the car has developed a shudder when it comes to stop (felt like the shudder on acceleration that was fixed by the dealer with a reflash). Suddenly it got so bad that it stalls when put into gear with the brake on. It feels like it is not coming out of converter lockup.
When I drained the fluid I replaced it with Valvoline Import multi-vehicle full synthetic (it says it is spiII). I latter added another half quart of Castrol transmax import multi-vehicle (also spIII). Did I screw up my trans? Will a flush work? Or do I just need to replace the trans and torque converter?
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My fiancee has a 2005 base model and is out shopping today. She just called me and said that she is stuck in a parking lot.
She told me on the way off the highway today the "big and little" triangles came on, but the car drove fine. When she got back to her car to leave, the car would turn on presumably, but all the warning lights were on. She then said that the car would not go into drive and only into neutral.
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I have a 2005 Prius with 107K miles which I had taken off the road for about 2 months. Car ran fine previously. I just replaced the old 12v Battery with a new Optima replacement battery, changed the oil and filter, and have 1/3 tank of gas. Inserted the key into the slot, foot on brake, pressed the Power button, and, just about every warning indicator light is On (Brake, Red Triangle, Check Engine, (!), ABS, VSC, Traction Control) and the yellow exclamation mark with "Problem" message appears for a second on the Display, then a Red Car (!) appears in the upper left-hand corner of the display. Car will Not go into Drive or Reverse, and engine will not run, even when gas pedal depressed. Am I doing something wrong, or did I let the car sit too long?
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I purchased a 2000 F250 7.3 4x4 (auto transmission) about 8 months ago. I've noticed recently that when I accelerate there is a slight hesitation like there is slack in the drive line. This does not happen when the truck is moving and I accelerate. There is not audible clunk and the hesitation is not in the motor.
I checked the u-joints and they all feel tight. There is a little slack in transfer case that allows me to turn the drive line slightly back and forth. Is this normal? Should I be planning on a transmission or transfer case rebuild soon?
Update: I was researching the leaf spring isolator pads (mine are warn out or missing) and it sounds like these can cause something similar to what I am experiencing. I am planning on pulling a 28' travel trailer from Colorado to Wisconsin next month and would like to avoid any issues if possible...... Obviously, I know ....
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2004 Santa Fe, after starting car the brakes make a grinding noise, the nthe ABS, ESC and 4 wheel drive light come on. After the initial grinding the noise stops and the brakes work fine. Just the lights stay on.
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I just wanted to share my story here. Last week on a routine trip on I-5 warning lights started flashing indicating hybrid drive failure. The car automatically shifted into neutral and I was limping along down hill. Luckily I saw a downhill exit and had the foresight to turn off where to my horror I discovered that my brakes didn't work. So I had to coast to the bottom of the hill and again made a quick decision to turn into a slight uphill side street to force myself to a stop with the parking brake. At point the car completely died and I couldn't even shift into neutral to push it.
After towing it to AAA and avoiding a collision on I-5 (if I pulled into the shoulder without breaks I likely would have crashed into a retaining wall) and then not being smacked after I got it to a stop I was pretty shaken...I'm lucky to be alive.
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A couple of days ago, I was about to take a long road trip. Stopped to top off gas tank (yes, I squeezed the handle a few more times than I probably should have). Restarted and drove about 300 feet. Master Warning light, check engine light, brake light and pretty car with ! in the display all came on. Drove home - car ran fine but the hybrid battery seemed to stay full, switched cars, got home the next afternoon, started car again -- all lights still on. Checked gas cap (just in case), brake fluid is between full and low, coolant is probably a little low.
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This is probably always present but I hear it most at low speed if I am off the gas and brake. Slightly accelerating or lightly touching the brakes seems to reduce or stop the noise. It is a knocking noise coming from the right front and the rate is related to car speed. I am guessing CV joint. What is it?
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I recently bought a 2004 Hyundai santa fe 2.4l with 94k miles. when sitting at a idle it has a slight vibration in the cabin, feels like a slightly rough idle, when you drive the vibration is gone. I also had it throw misfire codes for cyl 2 and 4. I put in new plugs and changed the wires, coils are on the way. When the car is in drive and I put the parking brake on and walk up to the motor it sounds like it has a exhaust manifold leak, but I only hear it when in drive. I guess my question is, could this exhaust leak be causing the rough idle or will this be fixed once the new coils are on?
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I will occasionally get a misfire after a rain storm, lasts about ten minutes then goes away. there is also a slight miss (no CEL) at idle, that occurs all the time. I'm thinking spark plug wires.... the plugs were done last year, but nothing else. to my knowledge the wires and coil packs are all original. i'm at about 114K on a 2004 santa fe 3.5l.
Also, does the computer store misfire codes? I know I got them in the past and i checked it at the time, but didn't write down what cylinder it was. think it'll still be in memory?
Think it's ok to change just the wires and not the coil packs? kind of on a budget...
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I have a 2004 Hyundai Santa Fe with a 3.5L engine and 92,000 miles.
For the past week or so, I have noticed a very slight smell of antifreeze/radiator fluid every once in a while. I assumed that it is a radiator hose leak or possibly a leak in the heater core. But, the vehicle does not overheat, there is no steam or fog inside that would indicate a possible heater core leak, and the radiator fluid level seemed full or almost full (although the radiator overflow container was empty). I added a little water to the radiator and filled the overflow container to make sure there was plenty of radiator fluid in the system.
I haven't seen any radiator fluid on the ground around the vehicle at anytime. When I open the hood, I don't see any leaking hoses. I took off the engine cover to see better, and I don't see any leak around the water pump, or dripping from the pump, or dripping from any hoses, etc. But, BELOW the water pump is something made of cast metal that I am guessing is the automatic transmission(?) -- I really don't know what it is. And, sitting in some valleys or crevices in that part are small pools of green fluid that clearly looks and smells like radiator fluid with antifreeze.
I ran the vehicle for a long time while watching to see if I could create or see the leak or anything dripping etc. But I don't see anything other than
those pools of green liquid just sitting there. I tried moving or wiggling the hoses, and nothing changed. I also tried keeping it running with the heat on high, then later with the AC on high -- still no change. Then I tried using paper towels and sopping up what I could that was in these valleys/crevices, then I drove it again (but only for about 4 miles so far) and I don't see any new fluid in the crevices or anywhere else.
Here are 5 photos that I took with the engine cover off while the green fluid was still there. The photos go from a wider angle overall view down to a view of the green puddles from a slight angle and then down to a top view of the green puddles.
[URL] ....
Where you may see dark areas on the water hoses near the water pump, they are just shadows created by the flash or the sun or whatever. The hoses themselves are all one color and are not wet etc.
My questions:
Am I correct that where the small green puddles are is the automatic transmission?
Is it possible that there is some connection between that (the automatic transmission(?)) and the radiator cooling system?
Is it possible that the cooling system somehow also cools the automatic transmission (or whatever that is)?
If so, could the leak be right there -- maybe where that bolt or the other wire/connection piece is -- and the radiator fluid is coming UP from there? What this may be or where the leak is coming from?
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2004 Santa Fe, clunking noise in drive or reverse. checked brakes and cv joints, replaced drivers front and still making the noise. Transfer case was a little low on fluid but not much. Put up on stands and turn wheels with no noise. Put in drive or reverse while in the air and rear wheels sit still. It is a 4wd so I would think that all 4 tires would be turning. While in the air the front both turn and no noise is made.
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Recently my 2004 Santa Fe 2.7 AWD (~86k miles) has started to give a sort of hard thump when shifting from reverse into drive. It's fine going into any other gears and it shifts up and down normally. If I shift from reverse to neutral and then to drive it's fine.
I changed the transmission fluid when we first got the car at 40K miles with Hyundai Liquid Unobtanium SPiii fluid and again at 80k miles with Valvoline's SPiii offering. I just checked the transmission fluid level and it's within the normal range.
I can't tell if this is just drive-line slop or something else inside the tranny.
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I have a 2004 2.0 crtd gsi Santa fe 104k recently started cutting out whilst driving, no warning , no loss of power just cuts out, restarts after a few seconds, can do it 4 or 5 times within a couple of miles and then will go miles without any problem.
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I have a 2002 Santa Fe 6cyl automatic GLS w/ 170k on it - great car - never a problem until about 20k miles ago, I started experiencing a shudder (like driving over a washboarded road) at 38-42 mph. If I accelerate quickly through this mph range (from 3rd to 4th gear), I can avoid it. Similarly, if I downshift back into 3rd, accelerate through and then upshift to 4th again at about 45mph, I can avoid it. It happens at a much lesser extent around 55-60mph. It has been to a reputable transmission shop that doesn't think its a tranny issue. Its been 4 days at a good mechanic and they can't find the problem. Its not throwing any codes and no other part of the vehicle seems to be affected. It has new tires/alignment less than 5k ago. I have suggested several things (ignition coil, torque converter, throttle control sensors) and they have checked these and more and don't find the problem.
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My '04 Santa Fe (135K miles) has been doing this for a little while.
Between 65 - 75 MPH on the highway, under acceleration, I experience what I can only describe as a "shudder".
I don't believe it's a wheel balance issue, because if I'm coasting or maintaining that speed everything is stable.
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I have a 2003 Hyundai Sante Fe 2.7 v6. About 2 months ago I started the car and it was kind of a rough start. It usually starts right up. I was driving in the rain and when I would press the brakes the car would shudder like it wanted to turn off but the head lights and dash lights did not flicker. I had it towed to my mechanic. He found a broken vacum hose and replaced it. The car seemed fine.
Today it started up kinda rough and then would shudder and not accelerate no matter how hard I pressed on the gas pedal. It was also idling roughly.
I bought the car from a friend who was the first and only owner. She has ALL of the service records and took good care of it. It has about 120k miles on it. The spark plugs and battery are only about a year old. It has a half tank of gas. I checked all fluids, pulled a few plugs and they look fine too. Air filter is clean too.
I asked the previous owner if she had ever changed the fuel filter and she said she didn't think so. I reviewed the service records (assuming I have them all) and it doesn't look like it was ever done. I have run seafoam through it 3 times since I bought it last August. I change the oil regularly and rarely let the gas get below 1/4 tank.
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I am having a minor problem with my 05 F150 Lariat. Under light acceleration going up a slight grade the truck sometimes shudders (vibrates?). If I let off the gas or accelerate slightly it stops. At first I thought it was a feedback loop with the electronic throttle so I had the dealer reflash the computer but that didn't fix it. I've noticed that it happens right about the time the torque converter locks (looking at the tach) and I'm sure it has something to do with torque converter locking up and then disengaging continuously. Funny thing, it seems to happen frequently on the same hill at the same speed. What was done to fix it?
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