Engine will die randomly. After sitting for half hour it will restart. It has been to the dealer, it sets no codes but when it dies all lights on dash come on just like when you first start car. It has 75k on it timing belt replaced new plugs and wires. Dealer kept it 2 days and could not replicate the problem.
View 2 RepliesI have a 2006 2.4l petrol (and an LPG gas system) model that is becoming impossible to drive due to the engine cutting out. I had all the plugs changed an injector thingy and some leads last week when it first started to cut.
At first we thought it was the gas system because it was running on gas the first few times it died. I've just taken it out to road test the petrol (with the gas turned off) and it did it again. It happens mostly when at idle (traffic lights) but has also cutout twice at speed on the main road. You can't restart it, it turns over for ever and doesn't fire up...but I did bump start it once. The next day it will start as if nothing was wrong. I haven't been able to access whether any lamps come on (mainly due to being in panic mode at some junction).
So my questions to the experts are based on the 3 main culprits mentioned elsewhere:
Alarm or immobiliser.- is there any way to disable the alarm/immobiliser so I can check if it is that?
Fuel and fuel pressure systems. - can I assume that because it does it on both fuel types that it isn't fuel filter/pressure pump like?
Cam sensor. - I have a mechanic friend who repairs everyone's car at work (600+ people and I think he's mended a good half of those)..is the fitting of a cam sensor only doable with some strange specialist tuning/timing equipment or is it a simple case of unscrew, replace and good is?
So my wife's santa fe will randomly get stuck in 3rd gear and not shift up or down (automatically or manually). It does not appear to be slipping as it speeds up slows down fine. The check engine light is on but have not read the codes yet.
View 5 Replies2.0 crdi santa fe stopped and engine management came on took it to dealer and they said no code to read ..got second opinion and the guy read the code and came up with 001 ..p1181 int.air var ctl.sol ..he also said that he thinks it an injector problem rather than this ...the car will start with a tow and drive a short distance and stop again.
View 2 RepliesA few months ago maybe more my wife told me that her car (2004 Santa Fe 3.5L) seems like it is going to stall when sitting sill at idle, in gear with AC on. I finally got around to looking at it. Ran a diagnostics and no codes were found. Ran a little rough but not really bad. Had her run some fuel injector cleaner through a tank of gas. I hadn't heard anything more from her about it. We decide to drive one night to a concert with friends and I was driving. The surging was very evident and by the time we got home that evening I had an engine light.
The next morning I ran a diagnostics and had a code for a #1 plug misfire. Checked the plugs and sure enough the #1 plug was toast. I went ahead and changed all plug, checked all vacuum hoses. Even changed air filter. Took it for a long drive in the mountains for a couple hours. No codes and everything seemed to be working as advertised. That was last week. Today it started happening again just not as bad.
Again, the problem only occurs when in gear and AC on. If AC is on engine is fine no fluctuation. Steady RPM at about 780-795. So I figured hey she is probably due for some new belts so I will check the AC clutch thinking that if the clutch was seizing it could cause some issues. Not so lucky. Everything was fine. The belts did need to be changed so not a total loss. The idler to the power steering is a little off but not too bad (have one coming to replace any way). I put everything back together ran another diagnostics and again nothing.
So I was wondering could a faulty alternator cause this. I started the car put it in gear and loaded it with lights, high beams, rear defroster, radio, hazards etc.. everything accept AC and the problem started again. I turned everything off and left it in gear and the problem went away. I placed it in park loaded it up again, including AC and the problem came back.
Any other possibilities. While I loaded everything I had a meter hooked to the battery and voltage dropped from 13.97 to about 12.5. Once I turned everything off voltage went back up.
Recently acquired a 2004 santa fe 3.5l w 99K miles on it. at idle/low rpm i hear a slight gurgling type noise from the engine. I can try to get a video. I recently did an oil analysis and they found no trace metals to indicate engine failure (high trace metals indicating bearing failure etc). i was a few PPM high on iron (16 when universal avg is 10) but blackstone explained it may simply be the way this engine runs and not to be alarmed. they stated an overall good report with strong results. I can try to post the report if wanted. The engine feels pretty strong overall. I recently had timing belt, drive s belts, spark plugs done to bring it current on service.
View 5 RepliesI have a 2.4 Petrol, 16 valve engine in my Santa Fe which produces a rattle on startup when cold. When warm it starts normally. Oil and filter change makes no difference. Timing belt changed 40K ago. No other effects felt with regard to power or noise once initial noise/rattle has stopped after 2 to 4 seconds.
View 4 Replies2004 2.4l engine has high idle speed aprrox. 1000rpm.
View 2 RepliesI just got a used Hyundai Santa Fe (2004). I was so excited until about 50 miles of driving it. Here is what happened:
I was idling at about 20 mph when all of a sudden the engine jumped (a little bit) - the RPM went down to 0 and the check engine light came on. I pulled to the side of the road and put it in park - then the car went back to normal like nothing happened, it didnt stall all the way. I was concerned and took it back to the dealership and they did a diagnostic test on it and it came back negative, nothing was wrong with it.
My boyfriend was driving up north with it and it happened to him, this time, it stalled. He said that the engine jumps a bit- but all of the lights go on on the dash. I remember it smelling pretty hot when I opened the hood before with it happened the first time, so I asked him to open the hood. He said it did smell hot. He checked the coolant and it was empty. It looks like there is fluid in it from the outside, but that was just the line that previous fluids had. He put coolant in (not in the actual radiator, but in the place where coolant goes) and it still stalled. I didn't want him to drive it anymore for fear of something worse happening, so there it sits.
Is this something that happens with most cars, or this kind of car? I am kicking myself for not purchasing the extended warranty, but I didn't have the extra cash to add over 1k to the price. Could it be just the coolant needing to go into the radiator? Do Santa Fe's typically shut down before they overheat? I was doing some research and it seems that cars stall because of either the fuel system or electrical system.
I've got a 2004 Santa fe V6 2.7 with a strange problem (145k miles).
On Sunday I filled up the tank and the car would start but not stay running the engine would just peter out and die. Took me a few minutes and a little revving and feathering the gas to get it to where the engine would not die b/f I got it into gear. After driving a mile home I turned off the car and restarted it 3 times w/o incident.
There was a previous episode that was very similar a few months ago. However, this was an isolated incident. I did a little research on the fuel filter and discovered the necessity of pulling out the back seats and did not take any action beyond always buying good gas. I lied to myself that the first freeze and a very cold engine was somehow to blame.
Friday morning I left on a trip (w/o getting more gas) and in route I filled the tank twice and both times it did not want to start. The car stated like normal when I left for the return trip. I stopped for gas once on the way home with the intent of buying just enough gas to get home and leaving the engine running while I pumped. As soon as I removed the gas cap the engine died and was once again difficult to start (the engine seemingly becoming more stubborn with each incident).
Additionally the idle while in gear was not as smooth as it has been but not necessarily to the point where I would have noticed if I had not been watching closely. I spent about 10 minutes on idle and under 10 mph creeping through a construction zone and the rpm dropped sharply a few times. what this could be?
2004 2.4L Sante Fe Base model. Car stalled out the other night, engine cranks but wont turn over. I have it towed to mechanic who tells me that the ECU is fried and they cant get any diagnostic done, that only a hyundai service can do this. I have it towed to service. Service tells me that they cant get a diagnostic done without a working ECU and that for the ECU alone. Then they could figure out what was going on with the car. The service also told me that the ECU isn't something that you can just go get at a scrapyard because it is specific to the VIN on my car. It just didn't sound right to me but I might be wrong.
View 7 RepliesI have a 2004 Santa Fe (4 cyl 2.7 L FWD) with only 42,000 miles on it. Coming home from work I was stopped at a stop sign and after stepping on the gas (halfway thru the intersection) my engine stalled - coasting to a stop (while crossing a very busy intersection I might add). After putting it in park I try to restart it - the engine cranks over as usual and starts but roughly 4 to 7 seconds afterwards it stalls again. I did this 4 or 5 times again with the same results. I'm almost positive the check engine light is on. The next day I popped the hood to see if the belt broke but its fine so I tried to start it again (same results engine starts but after 4 to 7 sec. stalls again). Before this engine trouble I haven't had one ounce of trouble from my Santa Fe. Not to be funny but yes there is a half a tank of gas in it... with plenty of fluids in it. After some research I kind of think its the Crank-shaft sensor (seems to be a problem with them in the Santa Fe's).
View 14 RepliesMy 2004 Santy 3.5L (I am the original owner) just turned 91.4K miles and all of a sudden a VERY LOUD Engine Knocking sound came from the top of the engine. I have been changing my own oil since new with synthetic Mobil 1 and a new filter every time, and I never had any issues. I changed it last week at 90K prior a Spring Break trip (1350 miles).
Then yesterday after I let her rest for 1 day, I took the kids to school and within 10 miles of my house the ticking HARD loud noise started happening. I pulled over near a shop (within 1 block of where the noise started) and they said...don't drive it it sounds like a lifter collapsed, or a rod bearing or something big...
I had her towed to the dealer and the first thing they told me is to gather all the oil change receipts and a "manifesto" and they asked me how often I change the oil... I said every 5K miles. I change my own oil and have done since day 1.
BTW, Timing Belt, Water Pump, tensioners, belts, coolant, spark plugs and coils were changed last year at 77K miles.
The car should still be covered under the 10year/100K Powertrain and I believe they are trying to build a case so Hyundai can cover this or not...
They still need to tell me what's wrong... I change my own oil so I don't have receipts for "oil changes" and I have a log of when oil was changed...
I've been having some trouble with engine hesitation after driving for 15-20 minutes and poor MPG on my 2004 Hyundai Santa Fe 2.7L. I've been slowly running through some tests as I learn how to diagnose car troubles. I just ran a voltage test on my 4 O2 sensors using a bluetooth scan tool and the Torque Pro app. I ran the tests at idle after warming up the engine. To me, the upstream sensors seem fine but downstream sensors are not behaving like they should. Aren't the downstream sensors supposed to be relatively flat around .45 volts while the upstream sensors fluctuate steadily between .1 and .9?
B1S1:
B1S2:
B2S1:
B2S2:
2004 3.5L Santa Fe ... My vehicle has about 156k and has a new problem. Occasionally, there is a howling / whining that seems to occur occasionally once the engine is warm. When this happens, the directional can light but will not blink. Same for the hazard light.
Replaced the alternator only about 2 months ago, Checked the p/s pump and it is good and no fluid loss from the reservoir. Been a great vehicle with only a minimal of issues since new. The first time this happened, the car had been on a 15 mile run. It sat for about 20 min afterward when I returned home. After re-starting it to run another errand, the whining / howling began. This lasted about a mile and went away about 2 blocks from my house on my return.
I have a problem with my 2004 Santa Fe, 2l diesel. Will try to keep this short!
When driving it suddenly 'heaves' (not sure how else to describe it), then it cuts out. I wait about a minute and then it restarts.
At first there was no 'heave' but there would be a momentary loss of power (I thought it was the clutch). Then it progressed to the 'heave' and then cut out, this happened now and then. Very quickly it started to do it every time I drove it. My neighbor mechanic blew down the fuel line, said the fuel pump in tank sounded ok, seemed to do it more when below quarter of tank.
So I kept tank topped up, it seemed ok, then on one 11 mile journey it did it 3 times, the last time the engine management light came on, crawled it home, after which it would not start at all. The computer said it was either fuel rail or coolant sensor. Neighbor replaced coolant sensor, it started ok. Tried it next day - 6 miles and it heaved and cut out again. This time no light coming on.
I've read about cam sensor, crank shaft sensor, fuel pump at back of engine...
I have a 2004 Santa Fe 2.4L the check engine light is on and says about the evap canister solenoid. I am trying to located it but I can't find it. So, where would it be located at so I can take it apart and where is the Canister located as well...
View 1 RepliesPrior to the most recent issue with our car the "service engine" light would randomly come on and off. Last week during a cold snap, my husband went into D&D and when he came out the car would not start. Triple A came, said it was the original battery and replaced it.
Then, the next day, he had a dead car after just having driven it, towed it, and the garage did a "hard reset" of electrical system. He drove it no prob for 1 day.
Then, it did not start after sitting in our driveway over night. The car would whirr when the key was turned, lights would go on, but would not start. The garage has done a electrical diag x2 with no leads. They are now going to replace the fuel pump. This seems like a huge leap. However, they said, when they "manually" tried to start the fuel pump it was dead...
I have a 2004 santa fe with a 2.7 v6. I have had a little misfire issue lately. I had a major power loss with a check engine light on it lasted for just a minute before it settled itself out. Had the code pulled at a local parts store. P0301 so I checked the plugs and they looked worn out. I pulled the upper intake and replaced the plugs and wires plus the upper intake gasket. I cleared the code and that seemed to correct the problem. Two days later, same thing happened. The engine seems to be running fine now. I wiggled the wiring harness to the injector and to the coil, no change in the way it runs. I was thinking it could be an injector or a coil pack.
View 6 RepliesI recently replaced timing belt and balance belt on my 2004 santa fe 2.4l and now the engine runs like crap and shakes badly. I went over all timing marks again and again and I am at a loss.
View 9 RepliesMy GF owns a 2001 Elantra 2.0l automatic.
We've had the problem with it not taking fuel like it should. It clicks off after a quarter gallon at a time - so it takes forever to fill up. I've cleaned some of the carbon pellets from the lines going to the charcoal canister but, I think there is a clog in the vent lines going to it. Haven't got around to trying to dislodge them with pressurized air -yet. Anyways, I don't know if that has anything to do with this but, I just wanted to bring that up.
What the problem is is that she was going 45-60mph down the road and she said the engine seemed to suddenly lose power and she was unable to go over 20mph. She had to pull over to let the cars behind her pass. She sat there for a minute or so (never turning off the engine) and then it seemed to gain power back and she made it home (about 2miles from where that happend). She said it happend again when she put it into reverse to park at the house.
I got in the car after it sat (off) for a few minutes and took it down the road but, couldn't replicate the issue. It ran fine for me -of course. She has told me she had a similar issue about a year ago but, nothing came up of it so I just shrugged it off. What should I be looking for? I checked all fluids and checked the intake hosing for obstructions and found none. The tank was on E but, the light wasn't on. She thought maybe she was running out of fuel.
I had her run to the parts store to get some SeaFoam and trans fluid (slight axle seal leak). She put half of the bottle in and filled it up. Didn't have any issue after that and made it to work this morning with no problems.