Santa FE SM (2001-06) :: 2004 2.7L V6 Sputter And Stalls - Misfire Codes
Apr 12, 2012
I have a 2004 santa fe with the 2.7L v6. I was driving and then it started to sputter and then stalled. I tried to restart, but the the engine would crank but no start. I came back to it about half hour later it started up as if there was no problem, and then after a 10 minute ride it stalled and did the same thing.I got it home and scanned it, came up with a couple misfire codes, a crank sensor code, and improper segment timing code ( I never heard of improper segment timing ). Also after fuel fill ups it never wants to start or stay running. I researched the fill up problem and found the purge canister valve to be bad. I haven't changed the purge valve yet, would that have anything to do with the stalling? If the crank sensor was bad, would it start later if it sat for a while. With my experiences when a crank sensor goes bad, the vehicle wont restart at all.
View 2 Replies
Advertisement
Often, when starting it will run rough and throw different misfire codes. Most of the time it smooths out in short order (a minute or less). When it doesn't smooth out quickly, it smooths out when I clear the code. Also, rarely it will start very hard. I have to wimd out the starter pretty good to get it to start. All that I have done is cleaned the MAF sensor.
View 3 Replies
My car has three codes P0102 - MAF or VAF Low Circuit Input, P0030 & P0050 which are signaling O2 sensor issues.
Car symptoms are a hiccup type sputter when accelerating for the first few times after starting the vehicle. The RPMs will drop down under 1000rpm and it will come back without taking my foot off the gas. The power comes back faster if I flutter the pedal. The last few times it stalled while taking off.
After the car is warm, it runs better smoother. I'm also noticing slightly poor fuel economy. The exhaust smells rich to me.
I'm wondering if there is a fuse that could cause all three codes? Seems like a power problem? Where is the fuse for these sensors?
Should I replace MAF? Can I use the MAF from a 2004 2.4L engine that's at the junk yard? How to proceed.
View 1 Replies
I have a 2004 3.5L Santa Fe with about 170k miles on it.
Runs great. I am going to change the timing belt here in the next week or so.
I have started having an issue where going into second gear it will jerk, almost like sputter. Does not do it all the time. Seems like a sensor or computer issue because the rest of the gears shift smooth. And if was a problem with the internals of the transmission I would think it would always do it and never go away.
What the issue could be since I am already going to be digging deep into the vehicle might be worth replacing more parts, what it is.
View 7 Replies
I have a 2004 Hyundai Santa Fe 3.5L V6 when i was driving a couple of days ago the check engine light flashed and after a while it stayed on the codes are P0300 which is a random misfire as well as a misfire in cylinder 2, 4 and 6
I replaced all 6 spark plugs and the 3 spark plug wires still the same issue. The car hesitates when accelerating when i accelerate it looks like it wants to stop the rpm goes to almost zero and then it moves and so on. the rpm goes up and down like crazy.
Sometimes it won't move past 1000 rpm I'm moving 60mph and still on 1000rpm and sometimes it works just fine like there is no issue at all. When idle the car is fine and everything seems normal it stays on 900rpm. The car has 158K miles on it.
I uploaded a video to show you what's happening to the tachometer when I accelerate [URL] ....
I'm on a limited budget I'm thinking of changing the ignition coils but i want to make sure that's what is causing the problem first because i spent 200$ to change spark plugs and wires and the mechanic didn't fix the issue.
View 13 Replies
2004 Santa Fe 2.7L V6 2WD ... Car was running fine, filled it with gas, and upon starting, heard a backfire into the intake manifold. It coded for a Cylinder 3 misfire so I had plugs and wires changed.
Now...The car starts, idles rough, accelerates sluggishly, and running rough any time it was around 2000 RPM. After I changed the plugs, it started bucking a little and stalls when I take off in the morning.
Coded and it's reading 7 codes, but some are duplicates:
-P0274 Cylinder 5 Injector Control High
-P0305 Cylinder 5 Misfire
-P0102 MAF or VAF A Circuit Low Input
-P0050 H02S Bank 2 Sen 1 Heater Circuit
-P0030 HO2S Bank 1 Sen 1 Heater Circuit
-P0274 Cylinder 5 Injector Control High (Shows Twice)
-P0102 MAF or VAF A Circuit Low Input (Shows Twice)
After having a backfire and then cylinder misfire...replacing the plugs and wires.
View 2 Replies
I have a 2004 santa fe with a 2.7 v6. I have had a little misfire issue lately. I had a major power loss with a check engine light on it lasted for just a minute before it settled itself out. Had the code pulled at a local parts store. P0301 so I checked the plugs and they looked worn out. I pulled the upper intake and replaced the plugs and wires plus the upper intake gasket. I cleared the code and that seemed to correct the problem. Two days later, same thing happened. The engine seems to be running fine now. I wiggled the wiring harness to the injector and to the coil, no change in the way it runs. I was thinking it could be an injector or a coil pack.
View 6 Replies
My 07 3.3 SF is throwing P0154 and P0300 codes. Autozone said the P0154 is Bank 2 pre-cat O2 sensor. But exactly which one? The P0300 is random misfire. Could they be related?
View 7 Replies
2001 vw cabrio 2.0 .. The car starts and stalls BUT only if you give it gas. I replaced the throttle body and did the throttle body alignment using vas-pc , no problems at idle but as soon as i give i gas it dies, and it seems to die quicker at higher temperatures. When it dies i get codes P0121 and P1570 i clear the code , do the alignment , and same thing happens over again. I also replaced distributor , crank sensor, maf sensor , spark plugs, wires , rotor, tried different pcm reprogrammed, no vacuum leaks, the only thing i can think of now is the ecm relay? but its missing so is it using the fuel pump relay ?
View 3 Replies
Toyota read the codes wrong and told me that I need a new hybrid battery. That is incorrect info. Codes P0300 P0301 P0302P0303. The codes mean misfire in cylinders 1 , 2 and 3. I have had injector cleaned in the past new spark plugs. If I drive it it gets warmed up and shuts down. It will restart and run maybe 7 more miles the same. The brake light comes on and I have to restart it.
View 9 Replies
My 2001 Honda CR-V with 120,000 miles has been sending misfire codes for the past couple of weeks. I replaced the distributor rotor and cap, plugs (NGK's) and wires, and the light disappeared after a couple of driving cycles. Then, it came back on about a week later. I had it diagnosed at a shop for compression and everything was good. I had read about the valve issues so I had the valves adjusted.
The car seems to run without any hiccup at all, and its been over 150 miles since the valve adjustment but the engine light remains on with the misfire codes.
View 1 Replies
I bought a 2001 golf gls 1.8T (AWW) about a month ago and it was running pretty bad, was throwing some codes, cylinder 1 misfire and some o2 sensor codes, I replaced the coil packs and spark plugs and then cleaned the MAF. It was still running bad ,rough idle and power loss. I figured it had to be some kind of vacuum leak, I replaced the PCV valve, cleaned the intercooler and put on a silicon TIP. Still had some rough idle and power loss, checked for vacuum leaks, using the good ole starter fluid method and found my intake manifold was leaking so I replaced that gasket. STILL rough idle and power loss, now I'm pulling codes for o2 sensor and a misfire in cylinder 3. My question is, should I replace my pre-cat o2 sensor or replace my MAF sensor? Or are there other things that should also be checked/replace.
View 5 Replies
I would like to find out why my car is misfiring before throwing parts at it. I have a basic level of mechanics and have checked a few things before posting here, which may or may not have ruled out some possibilities.
The problem: I have been consistently getting P0301 and P0304 but only happens sometimes, while other times there is no check engine light. I first checked the ignition coil, right side of it, that controls cylinders 1 and 4. Did resistance test, measured for voltage, and checked the wires for continuity to the connector, with everything coming out good. I know a few must have had issues with the cheap pigtail connector like me so I went and changed that but still got the misfire codes. I then put in an older known to be good working coil but no change.
After that, I removed spark plugs 1 and 4 and put them where 2 and 3 go but still got the same codes P0301 and P0304.
A friend who is a mechanic for Nissan checked the spark and wires, saying they were fine. He then checked the injectors and noticed that injector 1 didn't increase in ticking sound when RPM increased. He said I should replace injectors 1 and 4 to see if that changes anything or switch injectors 1 and 4 with 2 and 3 to see if the codes at least change. I removed them all, got two of them from junkyard just in case, made my own tool where I pumped straight fuel injector cleaner through each of them with pumped air, and put the two from junkyard on cylinders 1 and 4. I still got the same codes so then I switched injectors 1 and 4 with 2 and 3, which didn't change the codes.
I was told by another local mechanic shop that it's definitely the coil but I knew it wasn't.
Other info: I am not sure it would matter when dealing with a misfire but I borrowed a code scanner and saw that the Long Term Fuel Trim was -7%. I researched that and it means that the car is running rich and the computer is being told that it needs to run lean. I am not sure that this would make only two of the cylinders misfire and the freeze data shows that same negative LTFT for when the P0301 happened. I also know that there is an air leak at the gasket where the front cat connects to the flex pipe/rear cat. I have also gotten a rear downstream 02 sensor code once within the past month but it hasn't come back.
Would the LTFT being lean have anything to do with the misfires? Would the gasket between the two cats cause the 02 sensor to get a faulty reading? If so, would the downstream 02 sensor be able to adjust to a lean fuel mix? What else should I check?
View 40 Replies
Trying to troubleshoot my 2001 Elantra (173k). I'm having intermittent trouble codes being set and I'm wondering if they may be related:
P0302
P0303
P0446
The cylinder 2 and 3 misfires are relatively recent. Plugs and wires are visually ok (and not that old). I swapped plugs 1 and 4 with 2 and 3 to see if the plugs are bad. It took 3-4 days, but the P0303 set again (and it's very intermittent - car will noticeably lose power for a few seconds, code set, then run fine for several days). I also sprayed carb cleaner on the intake manifold gasket with no change in engine idle, so the gasket appears to be intact.
I had read in a forum somewhere that the misfires could be related to a vacuum leak, which could also be setting the P0446 code. I removed the charcoal canister and inspected the lines - visually ok.
I bench-tested the canister control valve and it did operate, though I noticed some charcoal blocking the valve so it would not close all the way when energized. I used compressed air to blow the debris out of the valve and it appears to close properly now.
I went to hmaservice.com and noticed there are no instructions for the P0446 DTC. I've been using a Haynes manual instead. For quite some time now when refueling, the fuel nozzle shuts off every few seconds (I have to slowly put the fuel in to avoid).
Some questions:
- Can these codes be related?
- Based on my symptoms, should I replace the canister control valve? What about the charcoal canister and the charcoal air filter - should those be replaced as well?
- What else should I check?
View 9 Replies
So my girlfriends's 2001 2.0 Golf (engine code AVH, 153k miles) began throwing codes for misfire on cylinder 4 and for the o2 sensor (post-cat) recently. I went ahead and replaced the spark plugs, wireset, and the coil pack. They were way overdue. The CEL went away for like 30 miles, and then came back. Now it's reading misfire on cylinder 3 and the same thing for the o2 sensor. What else it could be? Search is coming up blank, most people replaced the coil pack and the CEL went away.
View 2 Replies
I'm getting consistent P0305 and P0307 misfire codes when my 4.2L engine is revved past 5,000 RPM. Have a done a bunch of diagnostics including a new timing belt to no avail.
Specifics:
I have 2001 Audi A6 with a 4.2L 40V engine (yes, I know it isn't a Touareg but the motor is the same!). Timing belt replaced about 1.5 years ago and it runs great. However, I'm getting some codes. 1) At high RPM (over 5,000 rpm) under load, I consistently get a P0300, P0305 and a P0307. Happens like clockwork. As soon as I hit 5,000 rpm, those three codes post. 2) After driving around for a bit, I get a P0340 (Cam position Sensor). Things I have done, all with no change: 1) Checked for Vacuum Leaks 2) Replaced all the spark plugs 3) Moved all the coil packs from one side to the other 4) Replaced the Cam position Sensors 5) Moved all the injectors from one side to the other 6) Inspected (as best I could) the variable cam timing system under the valve covers. Brown chain guides looked OK.
Finally, I changed the timing belt to no avail. When I disassembled, I found the motor was perfectly in time. My marks from the first change ~18 months ago were still in place and everything lined up. I was able to install the crankshaft lock and cam locking bar with the timing belt in place (it wasn't even off a fraction, the locking bar slid right in). I installed a new belt and all the rollers + tensioner. Didn't put in a new water pump but changed all the other pieces. The new install went great and I was able to get almost exactly the 5mm gap on the tensioner after spinning the motor a few times that Bentley talks about. Put it back together and took it for a spin. DARN!@ The same codes post at exactly 5,000 RPM: P0300, P0305, P0307.
View 6 Replies
2001 Prius (242,044 miles) with transaxle error code! Red triangle with exclamation mark, check engine light, PS error, Main battery error, and little red car with exclamation mark error. One week ago car gave random misfire codes with a burnt smell... could have been from my car or could have been a smell from the car next to me. Cleared codes and they never came back. This week I get the CODE OF TRANSMISSION DEATH the dreaded P3120 along with a 5 minute wait by the side of the road until I could restart it and drive the 5 miles back to the house. Cleared the code but it came back the next day with another total loss of power and another 5 minute wait on the side of the road.
After I turn off the car and wait a few minutes it will usually start back up and I can continue on my way... sometimes for a few miles and sometimes for 10 miles. My question is this... could this problem be something other than a bad transmission (transaxle) or should I be looking for a used transmission on ebay? I have also heard that it is possible that the MG2 might be bad and that it can be swapped out without pulling the motor so how can I test and confirm my real problem. I plan to repair myself one way or another... Other than all these warning codes and exclamation mark warnings symbols she drives great until she stops producing power and coasts to a total stop.
View 12 Replies
2001 f 150 5.4 liter with it being code pops up saying cylinder one misfire, I've charge coil and spark plug ran great for awhile now starting to act up again. Got coil check and says still good and look at spark plug and looks still in good shape being just replace two weeks ago. It's running fine but if it sits over night and I get in and start it and begins to shake when I but it in drive and don't even need to move the truck just place it in drive with foot on break. I drive it awhile and it stops and runs fine?
View 9 Replies
2004 Ford Escape 2WD 3.0L with about 81,000 miles.
Problem: 2 possibly related
1) If warm up (get to about 190+ degrees) and then cut off engine. Does not start. If I wait about 30 secs and play the gas pedal, then I can get it to start with high revs and after about 15 secs runs normally. Or, I can disconnect the air intake and it'll start fine. But if you stop and try to start again, no joy unless playing with gas pedal.
2) After driving about 20-25 mins, it seems to randomly stall-out while going about 40 mph. When it stalls out, it will restart again after about 30 secs.
Note: Neither of the above throw any codes.
Here's my problem chart after mining the other posts:
Thing to replace/do //// No Code /// Stall while driving /// Won't restart when hot
Fuel Pump //// Yes /// Yes /// Doubt it
Fuel Filter //// Yes /// Yes /// Don't think so
CKP Sensor //// Yes /// Yes /// Yes
CMP Sensor //// Unlikely /// ? /// Possibly
ECT //// Maybe? /// Yes (if too hot) /// Yes
IAC Valve //// Unlikely /// Yes /// No
Thermostat //// Yes /// Yes (if too hot) /// Yes
MAF sensor //// Unlikely /// No /// Yes
What I've done:
- Well, I started looking at the vacuum lines and they were crumbling so I replaced all those (to EGR and all that).
- There is a mystery line that appears to come up from the canister and go to nothing--is this some kind of atmospheric vent?
- My cheap scan tool also shows engine temps getting up to 216 degrees if I make it work (idle high at 2000+ rpm), so I'm suspicious of the cooling system and thinking maybe the ECU is shutting down to avoid overheating.
I'm going to start with flushing the coolant and replacing the ECT and thermostat while doing so. This is relatively inexpensive and ECT can do weird things. The restart problem is consistent, so I'll know if I fixed that right away.
View 2 Replies
Have a problem with my Santa Fe. 2004 2.4l.
My wife drove the car when the problem first appeared. She had been driving for 30 min, roughly 30km, and the car looses power and stops. Won't start when she tries. It cranks but won't fire up. When she waits for a minute it fires up but stalls.
We took it to a workshop. No code. They changed the fuel filter, which hadn't been changed for a long time.
They took it for a drive and it worked fine. I picked it up and it was working. Then it died when I exited the highway. It had lost some power during a second while still on the highway. I had driven it for roughly 30km and the engine was hot. Again, was able to start it it up for a couple of seconds if I let it cool for a couple of minutes. Got a lift home and returned in the evening and it started on the first try.
Took it to work the next morning. Wouldn't start in the afternoon when it had been standing in the sun and was gazing hot. Opened the fuel cap to release any vacuum. No change. Again started when I returned this morning and it wasn't very hot.
The engine warning lamp hasn't light up. Will try to see if there is a fault code tomorrow. Will try to measure the fuel pressure eventually.
The valve position sensor and timing belt was changed a year ago.
View 8 Replies
I am getting the dreaded emission workshop.
The codes i am getting are p0301-p0304 and p0171
Which are misfire on 4 cylinders and system to lean (bank 1).
Here is what I have done:
Got the 4 ignition coils replace, replaced the mass air flow, replaced the air filter, replace the plugs.
I just check the L wire and it doesn't have any cracks or holes
I don't know what to do next.
View 4 Replies
