I have a 2.4 Petrol, 16 valve engine in my Santa Fe which produces a rattle on startup when cold. When warm it starts normally. Oil and filter change makes no difference. Timing belt changed 40K ago. No other effects felt with regard to power or noise once initial noise/rattle has stopped after 2 to 4 seconds.
View 4 RepliesDrove the vehicle today (current at 156k miles) about 40 miles then came back home. Left again to run an errand. After coming out of the store and starting the car, a very pronounced 'whine' occurred. It kept whining for about 2 miles and with 3 blocks left to go, the whine suddenly stopped. No CEL appeared and the radiator temp was normal, oil level was fine and the pwr steering fluid in the reservoir was at the max level. I suspected it might be the p/s pump but, if so, why did the noise cease?
View 1 RepliesMy santa fe has been great but recently after putting fuel in, it does not seem to want to start.turns over and runs for a couple seconds then dies out. Have to keep accelerator pushed down for it to keep running. after that it seems to run and crank ok. Why it keeps dying out after fueling?
View 4 RepliesI've a 2004 Prius. Had it for 3 years. 40,000 miles. No problems what-so-ever. 55 to 60mpg without any effort.
During the winter I noticed that when the petrol engine switched off - there was a jolt. (It used to be totally imperceptible.) Nothing drastic - I have to be on smooth tarmac to notice.
My Toyota dealer said this sometimes happens in cold weather. However, the weather has warmed up - and I can still feel the jolt.
Don't know if it's connected, by the central display diagnostic check tells me...
EMV. Code: 01-DC. Sub-code: 1C6-F6-1
My car has three codes P0102 - MAF or VAF Low Circuit Input, P0030 & P0050 which are signaling O2 sensor issues.
Car symptoms are a hiccup type sputter when accelerating for the first few times after starting the vehicle. The RPMs will drop down under 1000rpm and it will come back without taking my foot off the gas. The power comes back faster if I flutter the pedal. The last few times it stalled while taking off.
After the car is warm, it runs better smoother. I'm also noticing slightly poor fuel economy. The exhaust smells rich to me.
I'm wondering if there is a fuse that could cause all three codes? Seems like a power problem? Where is the fuse for these sensors?
Should I replace MAF? Can I use the MAF from a 2004 2.4L engine that's at the junk yard? How to proceed.
I am pretty new to Toyota Prius. Today I went to test drive a jap import 2nd Gen 1.5 Prius with 50k miles. What I found weird with the car was that, on the startup the petrol engine also started and it was on for the duration I was driving. I then turned on the EV mode and the petrol engine turned off but looking at the battery capacity on the screen, the battery drained pretty quickly possibly (2-3 minutes) and the petrol engine kicked in. Is this normal for 2nd gen prius cars ?
View 3 RepliesSo my 04 FX4 with only 55000 miles is finally starting to rattle. I change the oil more often than necessary, use Motorcraft 5-20 syn blend and a Motorcraft oil filter. The big question is...
What happens if you let it tick away and don't fix it? Beside the noise, what can happen? Will they actually break? Freeze up in the wrong spot and shove a valve into a piston?
Engine will die randomly. After sitting for half hour it will restart. It has been to the dealer, it sets no codes but when it dies all lights on dash come on just like when you first start car. It has 75k on it timing belt replaced new plugs and wires. Dealer kept it 2 days and could not replicate the problem.
View 2 RepliesA few months ago maybe more my wife told me that her car (2004 Santa Fe 3.5L) seems like it is going to stall when sitting sill at idle, in gear with AC on. I finally got around to looking at it. Ran a diagnostics and no codes were found. Ran a little rough but not really bad. Had her run some fuel injector cleaner through a tank of gas. I hadn't heard anything more from her about it. We decide to drive one night to a concert with friends and I was driving. The surging was very evident and by the time we got home that evening I had an engine light.
The next morning I ran a diagnostics and had a code for a #1 plug misfire. Checked the plugs and sure enough the #1 plug was toast. I went ahead and changed all plug, checked all vacuum hoses. Even changed air filter. Took it for a long drive in the mountains for a couple hours. No codes and everything seemed to be working as advertised. That was last week. Today it started happening again just not as bad.
Again, the problem only occurs when in gear and AC on. If AC is on engine is fine no fluctuation. Steady RPM at about 780-795. So I figured hey she is probably due for some new belts so I will check the AC clutch thinking that if the clutch was seizing it could cause some issues. Not so lucky. Everything was fine. The belts did need to be changed so not a total loss. The idler to the power steering is a little off but not too bad (have one coming to replace any way). I put everything back together ran another diagnostics and again nothing.
So I was wondering could a faulty alternator cause this. I started the car put it in gear and loaded it with lights, high beams, rear defroster, radio, hazards etc.. everything accept AC and the problem started again. I turned everything off and left it in gear and the problem went away. I placed it in park loaded it up again, including AC and the problem came back.
Any other possibilities. While I loaded everything I had a meter hooked to the battery and voltage dropped from 13.97 to about 12.5. Once I turned everything off voltage went back up.
Recently acquired a 2004 santa fe 3.5l w 99K miles on it. at idle/low rpm i hear a slight gurgling type noise from the engine. I can try to get a video. I recently did an oil analysis and they found no trace metals to indicate engine failure (high trace metals indicating bearing failure etc). i was a few PPM high on iron (16 when universal avg is 10) but blackstone explained it may simply be the way this engine runs and not to be alarmed. they stated an overall good report with strong results. I can try to post the report if wanted. The engine feels pretty strong overall. I recently had timing belt, drive s belts, spark plugs done to bring it current on service.
View 5 RepliesWhen I fill the car with fuel, the check engine light will come on and stay on until I reach about 3/8 of a tank. Then it goes off until the next time I fuel. I have replaced the sending unit and gas cap to no avail. Any thoughts?
View 1 RepliesHyundai Accent 2001. Not long after I bought it (from a cowboy, obviously) I filled up my petrol tank to full and as I was pulling out of the petrol station the car stalled and wouldn't start.
This keeps happening every time I fill it up, I can just barely drive it as long as I keep my revs up, but if I start to slow down (when approaching traffic lights etc) the car just stalls.
My check engine light is on but a mechanic just said that was because of a sensor and I don't need to worry about it, I'm not very good with cars so didn't really think much of it.
I can also smell petrol sometimes and when I unscrew my cap on my tank it sometimes hisses (is this normal after driving 30 minutes?)
When I get gas in my '04 Sante fe it can be very hard to get it restarted. It acts as though its flooded.
View 9 RepliesI drive a 2004 Hyundai Santa Fe V6 2.7L with a whopping 274,3xx miles on it. I've had it for about 6 years and it has been a great car for the most part. The water pump was replaced a couple years ago and the battery was replaced a year ago.
It started having issues a few months ago. It started out having difficulty starting, and shortly after it would start it would rev up as if you were accelerating even if my foot was on the brake. I took it to the shop and they checked the head gaskets, battery, transmission, alternator (I think?). Came up with the idea that it may be the air intake valve. It's the thing that controls how much the blade opens when you press on the accelerator. Well they took it out and said it was the dirtiest one they had ever seen. They cleaned it, because no one in our area had a replacement, and my car seemed to be acting better. It would still rev occasionally and would have trouble starting but not nearly as often as before.
Fast forward to now (a month later) and my car is revving higher and for longer than it ever has and has started stalling, and not starting more frequently. It usually stalls after it has been revving when it cant release or go forward (ex. when applying the brake or while in park.)
What the heck is wrong with this thing?? No one seems to be able to figure it out and it it so frustrating, not to mention dangerous! It stalled in the middle of me making a turn today so I was literally sitting in the middle of oncoming traffic with a dead car.
2004 2.4l engine has high idle speed aprrox. 1000rpm.
View 2 RepliesI just got a used Hyundai Santa Fe (2004). I was so excited until about 50 miles of driving it. Here is what happened:
I was idling at about 20 mph when all of a sudden the engine jumped (a little bit) - the RPM went down to 0 and the check engine light came on. I pulled to the side of the road and put it in park - then the car went back to normal like nothing happened, it didnt stall all the way. I was concerned and took it back to the dealership and they did a diagnostic test on it and it came back negative, nothing was wrong with it.
My boyfriend was driving up north with it and it happened to him, this time, it stalled. He said that the engine jumps a bit- but all of the lights go on on the dash. I remember it smelling pretty hot when I opened the hood before with it happened the first time, so I asked him to open the hood. He said it did smell hot. He checked the coolant and it was empty. It looks like there is fluid in it from the outside, but that was just the line that previous fluids had. He put coolant in (not in the actual radiator, but in the place where coolant goes) and it still stalled. I didn't want him to drive it anymore for fear of something worse happening, so there it sits.
Is this something that happens with most cars, or this kind of car? I am kicking myself for not purchasing the extended warranty, but I didn't have the extra cash to add over 1k to the price. Could it be just the coolant needing to go into the radiator? Do Santa Fe's typically shut down before they overheat? I was doing some research and it seems that cars stall because of either the fuel system or electrical system.
I've got a 2004 Santa fe V6 2.7 with a strange problem (145k miles).
On Sunday I filled up the tank and the car would start but not stay running the engine would just peter out and die. Took me a few minutes and a little revving and feathering the gas to get it to where the engine would not die b/f I got it into gear. After driving a mile home I turned off the car and restarted it 3 times w/o incident.
There was a previous episode that was very similar a few months ago. However, this was an isolated incident. I did a little research on the fuel filter and discovered the necessity of pulling out the back seats and did not take any action beyond always buying good gas. I lied to myself that the first freeze and a very cold engine was somehow to blame.
Friday morning I left on a trip (w/o getting more gas) and in route I filled the tank twice and both times it did not want to start. The car stated like normal when I left for the return trip. I stopped for gas once on the way home with the intent of buying just enough gas to get home and leaving the engine running while I pumped. As soon as I removed the gas cap the engine died and was once again difficult to start (the engine seemingly becoming more stubborn with each incident).
Additionally the idle while in gear was not as smooth as it has been but not necessarily to the point where I would have noticed if I had not been watching closely. I spent about 10 minutes on idle and under 10 mph creeping through a construction zone and the rpm dropped sharply a few times. what this could be?
2004 2.4L Sante Fe Base model. Car stalled out the other night, engine cranks but wont turn over. I have it towed to mechanic who tells me that the ECU is fried and they cant get any diagnostic done, that only a hyundai service can do this. I have it towed to service. Service tells me that they cant get a diagnostic done without a working ECU and that for the ECU alone. Then they could figure out what was going on with the car. The service also told me that the ECU isn't something that you can just go get at a scrapyard because it is specific to the VIN on my car. It just didn't sound right to me but I might be wrong.
View 7 RepliesI have a 2004 Santa Fe (4 cyl 2.7 L FWD) with only 42,000 miles on it. Coming home from work I was stopped at a stop sign and after stepping on the gas (halfway thru the intersection) my engine stalled - coasting to a stop (while crossing a very busy intersection I might add). After putting it in park I try to restart it - the engine cranks over as usual and starts but roughly 4 to 7 seconds afterwards it stalls again. I did this 4 or 5 times again with the same results. I'm almost positive the check engine light is on. The next day I popped the hood to see if the belt broke but its fine so I tried to start it again (same results engine starts but after 4 to 7 sec. stalls again). Before this engine trouble I haven't had one ounce of trouble from my Santa Fe. Not to be funny but yes there is a half a tank of gas in it... with plenty of fluids in it. After some research I kind of think its the Crank-shaft sensor (seems to be a problem with them in the Santa Fe's).
View 14 RepliesMy 2005 Santa Fe needs a purge valve.
View 3 RepliesEarlier this week, noticed that my car was surging on its own; basically, if I came to a stop, I could still feel the engine, like it wanted to just take off. And if I would have taken my foot off the pedal, it would have done just that. Also, I knew the car had gas, but sometimes, when starting the car it would not start at all. I would have to wait about 5 minutes or so and add major gas to it with the pedal and then finally it would engage. And then the last thing was that when I would get to my destination and put it in Park, the RPMs would go up to about 1500 or so, maybe a bit higher and then stay there and go back down to about 1000, without me pressing on the gas pedal at all. So anyway, thought it was the throttle position sensor, so I had my Dad install a new one on the car. It was a pretty easy process and thought that took care of the problem.
The surging part basically stopped, so the new TPS took care of that, but then it still had problems with starting. Took it to a car repair place the next day and they changed out the spark plugs, said that they were causing a misfire in the engine. Also changed ignition wires and a new gasket. So after they were done, drove away and all seemed to be fine, but then went to the dentist and Parked and then the RPMs went up again. Tried to start it immediately afterwards and it wouldn't start again. Tried a few minutes later, added gas with the pedal and it did start. Took it back to the car repair place, they drove it around, inspected everything and everything checked out fine. (Yeah, of course!) Ok, so just thought maybe the repairs were taking a bit to take effect. But later in the day, wouldn't start again.
So next morning, took it to the Hyundai dealer. They looked at everything for about 2 hrs, and said that there was a vacuum hose that was leaking, so they put on a new clamp but everything else checked out okay. Ok, so now it starts fine every time, but today it did that high RPM thing again when I put it into Park. It doesn't do it every time, but the RPM will just go up randomly then go back down and go back to normal. Should I clean the IAC with some type of carb cleaner to get out any carbon deposits? Or could it be a bad MAF sensor? Not sure what the symptoms are of that. Everything else seems to be okay now except for the random high RPMs when in Park and sometimes at startup too.
It's a 2 WD, V6 engine.