Santa FE SM (2001-06) :: 2003 - Won't Move And Front Right Smoking
Apr 5, 2014
I have a 2003 Santa Fe and it's been running fine except I just replaced my oil pan from damage from ice and just did front brake pads 2 days ago.( oil went onto the pads and caused a weird grinding sound) ...
After the brake pads were done it drove fine. I came home and the next morning I go to reverse and the truck will not move at all. I can go to any gear but it just will not move. I thought it could be the brakes were frozen because the front right was smoking after the pads were installed and had the guy who did them check it out. he figured it was a caliper on the driver's side and replaced it, but it will still not move. I am praying this is not a trans problem.
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When I turn on the defrost in my 02 santa fe, the engine smokes. when i'm parked and turn on the defrost, the car stalls out.
What I think is the timing belt seems to be making a funny noise, and my wife thinks she saw the smoke coming from there. it looks to be in good shape, though.
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My truck is a 1998 F-150 4X4 set up for towing etc. The left front started smoking and the front end just started bouncing around very badly. Of course I pulled off and let it cool down. My question is this; I've pulled the hub and the bearings seem smooth although maybe a bit tight. I've checked the caliper and it seems to be working properly.
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2003 Santa Fe 3.6 V6 with ABS
The car sat virtually driven for a year before it was given to me. After 2 weeks of normal driving this past December, the power brakes completely went out. Had to drive the pedal to the floor to stop at even slow speeds. Took the mechanic and they replaced the Master Cylinder and both brake lines.
Shortly thereafter had an unrelated issue with a coilpack gone bad. Replaced coilpack and at that time replaced both sets of brake pads on the rear.
In January, started noticing grinding metal on metal from both front brakes. Took the mechanic and they replaced both calipers, rotors, and pads.
2 weeks or so later, after 10 minutes of driving the front brakes started dragging. The pedal would become extremely hard, and I could notice thew smell of the pads burning. Would have to pull over, put the car in park and pump the brakes to get the calipers to release. This would occur intermittently every few days. Pumping the brakes would always solve the problem.
Over time, the issue became worse, ocurring far more frequently. Around this time I noticed leaving the engine on in park while pumping the brakes would no longer solve the issue. I would have to completely turn the car off and pump the brakes to get them to release.
Started noticing around this same time that the left rear started grinding. The brake pads completely wore down in 3 months time. Too to the mechanic. Replaced caliper, rotor and pads.
Still having the same issue with the brakes dragging. One mechanic thought it could be ABS related and advised me to pull the fuse and the two breakers to diagnose. Still had the same issue, so put the fuse and breakers back in.
No mechanic seems to know what is going on with it, and I'd hate to have to replace all the brakes again as the problem goes untreated. Is it possible that the master cylinder or brake booster could be the issue? It's a brand new master but that doesn't necessarily mean anything, I'm told. Again, I can only get the brakes to release the pressure by pumping the pedal with the engine off.
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The other day I was driving my Santa Fe. I noticed the RPMs went up and then the car started slowing down, so I pulled over. Since then the car won't drive. Engine starts up but the car won't move at all. When I push the gas pedal I hear the engine revving, but no movement in drive or reverse. No check engine light, and I checked the transmission fluid, looks and smells good. I checked and it has no transmission pressure. I verified by removing the transmission cooler lines and shifted the truck in all gears. Nada. Could it be the filter, a sensor or the torque converter? Or am I looking at having to replace the whole transmission?
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I have a 2002 Santa Fe V6. I'm getting the codes p1529, p0755, p0760, & p0765.
The car can start up & go, only for a short time. Engine will keep running, car won't move.
Kill the engine for 3 to 5 minutes, can start it up & go once again. Going 40mph increases the odds of the car not moving quicker.
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I just did a motor swap on a 2003 with 3.5 auto tranny and awd. engine runs great and every thing is running fine. Only problem is that the trans will not create any power. With no drive shafts on it still wont move the splines. With that said the trans was driving/running great b4 the swap.
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The bearing supporting the half shaft on the vehicle right side makes a noise. I don't hear the noise in the wheel bearings so I believe the noise is isolated to the support bearing.
The SF has 175k mi. The right side cv axle was replaced and it had some looseness in it but it did not eliminate the noise.
Additionally, I don't discount that some noise is generated by the tires as they are not new.
2003 Santa Fe 6cyl ....
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Picked up my 5th wheel this afternoon from being raised 3". Dropped over the 10 percent grade down the hill to normal driving. Had the trailer brake controller to boost #2 (Prodigy controller). Had to brake pretty continuously, (tried to stay off it a bit, but is is about 10 grade for about 3/4 mile. Put the auto trans in D2 to get brakes come to the red light at the bottom. Noticed a puff of smoke at the front. Driver side, didn't notice passenger side.
New pads and new slotted rotors new maybe 1,500 miles ago. Not liking that action, but need thoughts. Want to put a thousand or 2 miles towing this summer and accompanying mountainous terrain and back.
2000 F350 Lariat Super Duty 7.3 4x4 NOT a dually.
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I recently bought a 2001 Sante Fe 4X4, (my first Hyundai), that has transmission issues. It has about 135,000 miles on it. It will start easily, and go into Reverse just fine, but would not move in any forward gears. It would occasionally shudder a bit when put in 'drive', but only move forward a few inches. Recently, my mechanic backed it around, then decided to try it in forward again. This time it went forward a couple hundred feet, then quit moving forward. Do I need a new transmission, and if so, what vehicles use this same transmission? Or is there a sensor or valve that could be defective?
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This morning as I get in to drive my kid to school (2005 2.7 2 wd auto) as I go to put it in reverse I noticeably have to pull it with some force. I have never had to "force it" before, it had always switched gears with ease. This time it felt very stiff but had no issues going into gear. After I dropped my son off at school I went through the gears up and down and it felt very stiff (at this point i have no issues with starting it or P).
At lunch I go out to get something to eat and when I go to start it up it won't start. I try and try and nothing. All the lights came on, it's not a battery issue at all (brand new). But after 10 tries it starts, so I'm pretty happy. Then I go to put it in gear (reverse) I can not press in the button on the side of the gear shift. It will not go in. I press with all my might and it wont budge. But again, after about 10 good tries at it goes in and I can then select my gear but still feels very stiff.
After stopping again I didn't shut off the engine and dicked around with the shifter basically figured out that my car is not recognizing Park. On the instrument panel each gear lights up but not P. It gets very stiff when trying to put it in P but it doesn't actually go into P. If I put it in P (or really the further up it will go) and shut off the car, it won't start again. I can start it up in N and only N.
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I've got an 02 Santa Fe with the auto-dimming mirror. The tension that keeps the mirror in position has gotten loose, so the vibration from the road causes it to slowly move downward while driving.
Is there a way to tighten this up? Do I need to remove the mirror from the windshield to do this? (because, I can't even seem to figure out how to do that!)
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My right front window would barely move when I was opening it. Binding real bad on the way down. So I pulled the door panel, ( a two minute affair ) lubed all the tracks with silicone grease. Now the window goes down very easily.
I had all four doors done in an hour. To remove the door panels, remove the red reflector from the door, remove the screw underneath of it. Gently pry up on the window switch bezel at the front for the front door, and the side for the rear doors if so equipped. There will be another screw underneath. Unplug the switch, remove the screw. Remove the trip piece from above the hinge area. Push up on the panel and it comes off.
I used that real thick silicone grease that you can get a plumbers supply for lubing faucet o-rings. It looks like double thick vaseline. Windows work like a dream now.
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Just bought an 01 F250 7.3 but it will not move I think it has something to do with the fuses because it won't go in forward or reverse but I can't find an accurate diagram For fuse box I'm missing probably 8 fuses underneath the dash and I think one of them has to control the transmission module. What it could be if someone doesn't think the fuses...
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Started getting a knocking in the front end when you hit small pot holes. I was wondering would it be strut mounts or something else ?
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The best that I can describe what it feels like is at around 30 to 40 mph it shakes like your going over the side shoulder little pumps with both wheels. Only at those speeds... I all ready changed struts, tires, rack in pinion, upper and lower ball joints and tie rods. I have not change the tie rods that go up and down from struts to spindle its like 6" long or so can that be it? Or CV shaft?...
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'05 Santa Fe 2WD 3.5. Front end shimmy at about 70 mph. bad CV joint. I am replacing both left and right. Got everything out of the way to remove both CV's. Problem: The retaining ring at the end of the axle shaft will NOT release the axle. Pry bar not having any affect.
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I have a 2001 hyundai santa fe v6 all wheel drive the car is actually my wifes car and she likes it however I have recently noticed some significant rust on the front subframe where the the lower control arm attaches my question is is there or is there not a recall for this again 2001 v6 awd salt belt car ohio to be exact again.
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My front right caliper does not work. was changed ( both sides) also hose from right side because it still did not work. Found that fluid gets from reservoir to abs but does not come out to front right wheel. Place air pressure from hose to abs, and runs fine, from reservoir to abs and runs fine from abs to out from abs to front right and air does not go in.
But when pressure goes from out of abs to in abs from reservoir air flows fine also. What is going on...
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'05 Santa Fe 2WD 3.5. Front end shimmy at about 70 mph. bad CV joint. I am replacing both left and right. Got everything out of the way to remove both CV's. Problem: The retaining ring at the end of the axle shaft will NOT release the axle. Pry bar not having any affect.
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My 2005 Santa Fe, 2.7 liter, automatic, FWD. with 180K miles had a cracked radiator. The leak is in the front of the radiator about 6 inches right of the filler neck (as you stand looking at the front of the car).
I've found an OEM replacement radiator and looking to replace this weekend.
I can see I need to remove most of the front grill and support, drain the radiator, move some parts out of the way and disconnect to hoses and fan electrical leads. Is there anything else I'm missing? Is there a good write-up on a radiator change that I'm missing?
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