Santa FE SM (2001-06) :: 2003 - While Driving Buck And Stalls
Jan 14, 2015
My wife and I own an 2003 2.7L Santa Fe 2WD with ~176K miles, for the past couple months we have been having several problems with this car, the biggest problem being that it will buck and jump while driving, and is now beginning to stall out. The stalling issue happens while driving at low speeds, while stopped in traffic, or while idling. The engine will rev slightly higher then stall out but will usually start right up afterwards. Only once that I know of, my wife has told me that it would not start right away.
I have read that the cause could be the CPS or fuel pressure regulator. Is there anyway, other than just swapping parts, to narrow down the culprit to the correct fix? The other problem we are having is the hard start after fueling up. I tested the Purge Valve by blowing into the hose, and determined it to be bad and will replacing it soon.
A little history on the car: I replaced the fuel pump and strainer last year, and a couple years we had 2 of the 3 catalytic converters fall apart and clogged the exhaust, so I knocked them out and have been driving with only one intact converter (rear exhaust manifold) since then. I know that isn't good for the O2 sensors, but we cannot afford to replace them at $300+ a piece.
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I have a 2003 santa fe I just replaced the cat. in it because it was running so poorly. Now that I've replaced the cat it seems to be worse. The car idles real rough, and cant get it to go over 2000 rpms. No engine light. Had the codes checked and all came out fine. I pulled out the plugs and replaced with new. The car in park ran great until I put it in gear then went back to the same no power, rough idle and cant get more than 2000rpm with out a stall. Stalls but dose not die. Disconnected the pre o2 sensor no change.
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We are at 120K miles. The vehicle runs fine most of the time, but every once in 10-15 starts, it will rough idle or stall after a short warm up time when my wife stops at an intersection. Once she restarts it, it runs fine.
I have changed the spark plugs and wires, the fuel pump, the crankshaft position sensor (was fried) and after consulting this forum, I checked the fuel pressure regulator and the diaphragm is not leaking.
I was able to recreate the rough idle and the CEL on the dash, but my two OBDII readers said there were no codes And the bluetooth reader I am using is indicating that the following tests are not completing: Fuel System, Catalyst, Evaporative System and Oxygen Senors.
The dash CEL resets itself upon restart and does not light until the symptoms return.
After reading the Haynes Repair Manual, I am wondering about the Evaporative Emissions Control (EVAP) system? But I don't want to lead the troubleshooting.
We bought the vehicle at 60K miles and it has been mostly reliable.
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Got this truck used, it is a 2001 F150 4 door lariat 5.4, 4x4. It now has around 108k miles on it. The truck dies while driving down the road every couple weeks or so. It will restart after a minute or so and then seems to be fine. The ABS light is on, no codes or CE light.
The last couple months while your going down the road it revs up to 4k rpms or so while your driving like the OD is turning off. The other day it wouldn't start in the morning, I changed the fuel pump relay and it fired right up. I put the old relay back in and it still fired up!!!!
I decided to take it to the dealer today and on the way to town it shifted out of gear while driving at speed, the speedo turned off and the odometer turned off as well. I shifted to N and then back to D, nothing, I hit the OD button and it flashed but still no go so I coasted to a stop, truck was running at idle.
I turned it off, restarted and everything worked just fine again and went on my way to the dealer. Still no CE lights.
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New here. I have a 2001 F150 which i love but lately has been an issue. I started it up a few weeks ago after it set over night. i threw it in to reverse and notice it hesitating while reversing and it has small trouble accelerating but does buck and jerk while trying to maintain speed. So I took it to my well trusted mechanic and he ran compression test and ran the highly prolific OTC scanner on it and nothing. I have changed my mass flow sensor and I dont show any misfires or any codes pending. I did replace a busted catalytic convertor a couple months back. Im running out of places to turn.
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My daughter was driving our 3.5L Santa Fe on the highway when it decelerated. Stepping on gas and no acceleration. She said she got a CEL and oil light. She was able to pull over to the side of highway and turned ignition off and on and she was able to drive off the highway and called me. She was about 120 miles from home. She said the cel light and check oil light were now off and I had here check the oil and it was at full.
I had her drive in the right hand lane without going over 60 and she made it home no problem. I took it out for a drive and no issues. Do you think this is a crankshaft position sensor problem?
mileage is 170k - timing belt was replaced at 130k.
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2003 Santa Fe - Loss of power while driving on highway. Dropped from 60 to 15 MPH in matter of seconds. Feels like a couple of cylinders (3.5 liter) are not working.
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I have a 2003 Santa Fe, 2.4L. I think some snow got onto the power window switch panel, then melted and fried something. While driving, the driver side window will go down by itself. What's more, when I turn my headlights on, the window goes down as if the headlight switch is the switch for the window.
How I could fix this? Is there a way to disable the power window altogether? I'd rather do that in the meantime if it's going to require some expensive diagnosis and fix from the mechanic.
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Today, while driving on the highway, my heater just quit working. My car is equipped with the automatic climate controls and so I switched it to manual mode to see if the heat would come back. The heat does not seem to be mixing at all with the air.
One weird thing is that if I set the temperature to 90 degrees then the A/C mode will turn off and blow pure hot air. However, if I go to 89 degrees then the heat will stop and the A/C will turn on again. Turning off the A/C manually does not bring the heat back.
What could be wrong? I might just try unplugging and reconnecting the controls since I was messing with the radio a couple of days ago.
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My SO has a Hyundai Santa Fe - 03 2.4L with the 4 speed auto with 130500 miles.
While driving tonight, the interior lights started blinking. Which was kind of odd. Apparently when this happens, the tail lights (but not headlights) go out.
I did a quick bit of research on it and apparently there is a "bus" that goes bad and causes this. What is a "bus"? And how do I replace it? Is it something like a fuse that is getting corroded?
Also ... I think there may be something up with the a/c. When I turn on the A/C or defroster (any setting that activates the compressor), I smell a burning rubber smell in the dash. I'm not seeing the belt slip on the compressor and not hearing any slippage but there is a definite burning rubber smell. When the HVAC is on something that does not activate the AC Compressor (top vent) we do not get the smell.
Lastly, there are some transmission issues it seems. There is a shift flare between the 2-3 shift and the 3-OD shift sometimes is very firm/abrupt ... it appears to be locking the torque converter during a very hard shift.
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Have a problem with my Santa Fe. 2004 2.4l.
My wife drove the car when the problem first appeared. She had been driving for 30 min, roughly 30km, and the car looses power and stops. Won't start when she tries. It cranks but won't fire up. When she waits for a minute it fires up but stalls.
We took it to a workshop. No code. They changed the fuel filter, which hadn't been changed for a long time.
They took it for a drive and it worked fine. I picked it up and it was working. Then it died when I exited the highway. It had lost some power during a second while still on the highway. I had driven it for roughly 30km and the engine was hot. Again, was able to start it it up for a couple of seconds if I let it cool for a couple of minutes. Got a lift home and returned in the evening and it started on the first try.
Took it to work the next morning. Wouldn't start in the afternoon when it had been standing in the sun and was gazing hot. Opened the fuel cap to release any vacuum. No change. Again started when I returned this morning and it wasn't very hot.
The engine warning lamp hasn't light up. Will try to see if there is a fault code tomorrow. Will try to measure the fuel pressure eventually.
The valve position sensor and timing belt was changed a year ago.
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I have a 2001 Hyundai Santa Fe LX with 214,000 miles on it. In general, I am having two problems which are most likely related. I would like to get opinions on what is causing the problems, how to fix the problems, and what the cost might be for the fix. This is an older car and I don't want to bring it to a mechanic to just do searching.
1. RPMs fluctuate quickly at slower speeds in town stop and go traffic and while parking in Drive or Reverse. Fluctuation can be between 1000 to 2000 and 3000 RPMs back and forth.
2. Car stalls while sitting at stops when in Drive. When car stalls, RPMs have suddenly decreased to 0 (zero).
3. RPMs fluctuating and car stalling typically occur after I have made my first stop and have turned off the car.
There is also a Check Engine Light Code: P0304, Cylinder 4 Misfire Detected. I changed the vehicle speed sensor a few months ago.
Here are the details of what has been happening, when it happens, and what I have tried.
- When RPMs fluctuate, the car slowly accelerates and slows down and I can hear revving high and low. This happens when the RPMS fluctuate just a few RPMs around 1000 and when the RPMs are fluctuating up to higher RPMs.
- After the car has been driven for about 45 minutes and car is at slower speeds, RPMs will fall to zero while at stop and in Drive, and the RPM fluctuation will begin.
- RPMs jump to 2000 or 3000 and stay there but do not fluctuate when car is put in Park and Neutral.
- When car is in Park and at 2000 or 3000 RPMs, car takes a few extra seconds to turn off.
- Car accelerates without pressing gas pedal and will accelerate up to 40 mph.
- Car will sometimes lurch at slower speeds of 15, 25, and 35 mph when RPMs are fluctuating or when the gas pedal is pressed.
- When RPMs are fluctuating and at 1000 or higher and I am pressing the brake to slow down, the car fights in Drive and in Reverse.
- RPM fluctuation does not occur at interstate speeds.
- A couple days ago, when I was at interstate speeds of 60 to 75 mph and pressed the gas pedal, the car would stutter and jerk.
- RPM fluctuation and stalling primarily do not occur when the car is started at the beginning of the day or when the car has been off for several hours.
- Twice In the last week the RPM fluctuation and stalling occurred even after car was not started for several hours and after only about 5 to 10 minutes of driving in town stop and go traffic.
- Sometimes car stalls when I'm at a stop and slightly press the gas pedal to start driving.
- There are times in town traffic when the car is operating normally and is at 750 RPMs at stop, then the RPMs suddenly decreased from 750 to 0 (zero) and the car stalls.
- From Neutral, sometimes when I simultaneously put the car in Drive and press the gas pedal either by feathering or forcefully pressing pedal 3/4 to the floor, the car would have a delayed reaction to accelerate but would not shut off.
- After car has stalled, if I try to start it right away, the car cranks but does not start for about 5 minutes.
- The time between stalling and being able to get the car to turn back on has increased over time from starting up at first crank to not starting for 5 minutes.
- If I let the car sit for 3 to 5 minutes after it has stalled, the car starts up but takes a couple seconds to start while pumping the gas pedal.
- Issues have been happening since November but are getting more frequent.
- Stalling is happening more frequently and within minutes of each other.
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I have an issue of fuel pressure I believe on my 2003 3.5 Santa fe...It would start then stall...I'm at my wits end with this thing...I checked the relay and its good...checked all fuses and they are good...I don't hear the 2-3 second whine of the pump when I turn the ignition to the on position, so I suspected a bad pump...but before I bought a new pump I took out the back seat, removed the access cover and checked the connector to see if the pump is getting power...its not...I'm at a loss as to where to look next...
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I have a 2004 santa fe with the 2.7L v6. I was driving and then it started to sputter and then stalled. I tried to restart, but the the engine would crank but no start. I came back to it about half hour later it started up as if there was no problem, and then after a 10 minute ride it stalled and did the same thing.I got it home and scanned it, came up with a couple misfire codes, a crank sensor code, and improper segment timing code ( I never heard of improper segment timing ). Also after fuel fill ups it never wants to start or stay running. I researched the fill up problem and found the purge canister valve to be bad. I haven't changed the purge valve yet, would that have anything to do with the stalling? If the crank sensor was bad, would it start later if it sat for a while. With my experiences when a crank sensor goes bad, the vehicle wont restart at all.
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My 2001 Chev Silverado 1500, 5.3L, 260,000 K miles may finally be near the end - It has been running great until this week. I live in Portland - weather was down to about 10 deg F a few nights and when it warmed up again the trouble started. After starting cold and driving for about 15 minutes it starts stalling out.
Sometimes it will fire right up again and I'll hardly notice except for a momentary drop to 0 on the tach. Other times I'll have to pull off to the side to the road and restart it. However, 2 times now it would not restart and stay running. It would either fire up but then die within 10 seconds, or it would just crank. Both those times it did restart successfully after 40 minutes had passed total and it drove fine afterwards until I got where I finished my commute (about another 5-10 minutes of driving).
I took it to a mechanic who could see it stall but was not able to duplicate the 40 minutes out of commission thing. His fuel pressure gauge indicated that the pressure was fine during the stall outs. The mechanic ran the computer diagnostics but didn't see anything unusual. He wasn't really sure what the problem was. He recommended replacing the fuel pump and fuel filter anyways - but couldn't say if that would make any difference.
Should I start throwing money into new parts or move on and start looking for a new vehicle?
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The car starts well every time even though the revs go up then down for just two seconds before stabilizing at normal rev count. Sometimes while driving the car would just stall and loose power even though my foot will still be on the accelerator, if I pump the accelerator it will wake up and move on nicely like nothing ever happened. I've had this problem for the past two months now and it happens atleast 5 - 6 times a week randomly. the problems is beginning to get worse. The car has an automatic transmission. I've changed the fuel filter and air filter only in the last 20000kms. the MAF is ok because when i unplug it the car switches off and won't start again. every time i open the hood and rev the car a bit i can hear what sem to be huge suction of air somewhere next to the throttle body.
2011 Golf mk4, 1.8L...
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2002 Santa Fe has been misfiring for about a month...yesterday it got worse...When it's running hot and stopped at intersection it lurches forward.. It stalled when backing up after being parked. Mechanic did diagnostic test and it showed zero...He changed 2 wires to spark plugs..Spark plugs have only 20,000 miles and SUV has 68,000 miles.
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Ford Taurus 99 3.0 dohc. 122000 miles. No engine light.
When driving at 65 mph only while accelerating there is a jerk/buck almost like it tries to go faster but it gets stopped violently. I Checked spark plugs, wires, etc. The plugs were twice the gap so I just replaced them with wires and coil pack since they were original.
Still have the problem...and now I am testing several things. Tps seems OK. Voltage does not jump but it doesn't go higher than 4 volts even if its rated for almost five. I checked on a cheap scan tool voltage for o2 sensors. Both upstream seem to be normal. Down stream seem low and a bit jumpier than I would expect. And I am hoping its not the cat.
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This happened a year ago. We got it running after a few minutes, and had the fuel filter changed before continuing on the highway again. It ran fine for the remaining 2 hours of the trip. I looked online and saw this as an issue, but no one knows why. It was suggested to take a break after 2 hours, and that has worked until 2 days ago, when it stalled an hour after the break, then restarted after some time and made it the next 1 1/2 hours home no problem. Each time it stalled, the air temp had been in the high 90's.
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My 2001 Chevy Venture stalls after driving it approximately 15 minutes and won't start for about 20-30 minutes, then same problem occurs. I've had the following parts replaced to date, with no success.
AIR FILTER
ENGINE CONTROL SYSTEM
IGNITION MODULE
FUEL PUMP AND WIRING
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06 Elantra Limited, 96,xxx miles. When I'm idling at a light or something, the Rpms drop for a split second, almost to the point of stalling, but recovers. Happens in a split second. Does the same thing even when driving, but does it more frequently when idling. It even does that when I first put my foot on the throttle to accelerate from a red light.
I've cleaned the throttle body but it still does it. I've taken it to 3auto parts stores. One said that battery was bad. The other said the battery is fine but alternator is producing low. The last said both are fine.
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