Santa FE SM (2001-06) :: 2003 - While Driving Power Window Goes Down By Itself - Way To Disable It?
Jan 8, 2016
I have a 2003 Santa Fe, 2.4L. I think some snow got onto the power window switch panel, then melted and fried something. While driving, the driver side window will go down by itself. What's more, when I turn my headlights on, the window goes down as if the headlight switch is the switch for the window.
How I could fix this? Is there a way to disable the power window altogether? I'd rather do that in the meantime if it's going to require some expensive diagnosis and fix from the mechanic.
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2003 Santa Fe - Loss of power while driving on highway. Dropped from 60 to 15 MPH in matter of seconds. Feels like a couple of cylinders (3.5 liter) are not working.
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My wife has a 2005 Santa Fe with the 4 button window contol, and as of the other day her driver's side window won't roll down. However all the other windows will roll up and down from the switch. Is it likely that her side has quit at the switch from being used the most, or would it be a problem with something else on the driver's side since all the other switches work?
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My daughter was driving our 3.5L Santa Fe on the highway when it decelerated. Stepping on gas and no acceleration. She said she got a CEL and oil light. She was able to pull over to the side of highway and turned ignition off and on and she was able to drive off the highway and called me. She was about 120 miles from home. She said the cel light and check oil light were now off and I had here check the oil and it was at full.
I had her drive in the right hand lane without going over 60 and she made it home no problem. I took it out for a drive and no issues. Do you think this is a crankshaft position sensor problem?
mileage is 170k - timing belt was replaced at 130k.
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My wife and I own an 2003 2.7L Santa Fe 2WD with ~176K miles, for the past couple months we have been having several problems with this car, the biggest problem being that it will buck and jump while driving, and is now beginning to stall out. The stalling issue happens while driving at low speeds, while stopped in traffic, or while idling. The engine will rev slightly higher then stall out but will usually start right up afterwards. Only once that I know of, my wife has told me that it would not start right away.
I have read that the cause could be the CPS or fuel pressure regulator. Is there anyway, other than just swapping parts, to narrow down the culprit to the correct fix? The other problem we are having is the hard start after fueling up. I tested the Purge Valve by blowing into the hose, and determined it to be bad and will replacing it soon.
A little history on the car: I replaced the fuel pump and strainer last year, and a couple years we had 2 of the 3 catalytic converters fall apart and clogged the exhaust, so I knocked them out and have been driving with only one intact converter (rear exhaust manifold) since then. I know that isn't good for the O2 sensors, but we cannot afford to replace them at $300+ a piece.
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Since my warranty has expired, I have had a problem with my alarm regularly firing after ~10 mins of the car being locked, regardless of whether I engage the alarm or just simply lock the car. I have brought the car to a dealer to troubleshoot multiple times and they can't figure out the issue. Is there a way to disable the alarm so I can still lock the car? Currently, my only workaround is to leave the car unlocked all the time.
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Driving along, suddenly lost gears, engine revved a slight bit then lost power and stalled, the engine turns over but will not start but when it turns its in a lower key sound, the timing belt is in place but has recently been changed, would you think it has slipped? Seems a total lack of combustion in the top of the engine, would a slipped timing belt cause this?
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Today, while driving on the highway, my heater just quit working. My car is equipped with the automatic climate controls and so I switched it to manual mode to see if the heat would come back. The heat does not seem to be mixing at all with the air.
One weird thing is that if I set the temperature to 90 degrees then the A/C mode will turn off and blow pure hot air. However, if I go to 89 degrees then the heat will stop and the A/C will turn on again. Turning off the A/C manually does not bring the heat back.
What could be wrong? I might just try unplugging and reconnecting the controls since I was messing with the radio a couple of days ago.
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My SO has a Hyundai Santa Fe - 03 2.4L with the 4 speed auto with 130500 miles.
While driving tonight, the interior lights started blinking. Which was kind of odd. Apparently when this happens, the tail lights (but not headlights) go out.
I did a quick bit of research on it and apparently there is a "bus" that goes bad and causes this. What is a "bus"? And how do I replace it? Is it something like a fuse that is getting corroded?
Also ... I think there may be something up with the a/c. When I turn on the A/C or defroster (any setting that activates the compressor), I smell a burning rubber smell in the dash. I'm not seeing the belt slip on the compressor and not hearing any slippage but there is a definite burning rubber smell. When the HVAC is on something that does not activate the AC Compressor (top vent) we do not get the smell.
Lastly, there are some transmission issues it seems. There is a shift flare between the 2-3 shift and the 3-OD shift sometimes is very firm/abrupt ... it appears to be locking the torque converter during a very hard shift.
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I have a Santa fe 2002 crd 2.0 4x4 and recently had a lot of black smoke and a loss of power when driving, it starts fine but when revving it blows black smoke from exhaust and has no power to pull away, been told its possible turbo problem or fuel problem.
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Bought my Santa Fe GLS less than 2 months ago and ran fine. Last week, went to store no problems and then went out 5 minutes later, put it in reverse and it stalled. I go to the store, and it lacks MAJOR power.
Now, if I leave it alone for a while it will normally start right up. While idling, everything seems fine. Then my "ghost" takes over the vehicle making it less responsive to the gas pedal. Also, at 3000 rpm, it sounds like its skipping a cylinder. When reading the gauge, it skips between 3000rpm to abut 2800 rpm.
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My problem is my 2001 Santa Fe petrol 2.7 L its done over 300,000 km one day it sounded like a click when driving, then when I started it cold in the morning it was missing [not running right] and had no power until it warmed up the spark leads are not that old anyway I put new spark plugs in it it seem to run a lot better but seems to be down on power on hills I think coils are ok? the motor not smokey but burn little bit of oil.
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I have been experiencing an intermittent problem with the power steering on my 2002 Santa Fe. It seems to happen in the rain or when driving through puddles...the power steering seems to lock up for a short period, usually lasting only seconds. It has only been a nuisance so far, but it could be a major safety issue if it happens at the wrong time.
- 112K miles
- PS Fluid looks full
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I have a 2001 santa fe. replaced the battery, alternator and I keep losing power while driving, radio goes on and off, a/c blows on and off, doors lock and unlock by themselves it holds a charge for about a week then breaks down again!
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My daughter's 2004 Santa Fe (2.4L standard transmission) is making strange noises on start up which I think is due to a power steering issue as the noise is greater when she turns the wheel while stationary or when driving for the first 5 minutes or so until it warms up.
She came over tonight I she is about an 1 to 1.5" below the MINIMUM line on the Power Steering Reservoir.
Is there any special or proprietary Power Steering Fluid I need to be buying or what should I be buying to top this up?
I know there has been much discussion on using only Hyundai automatic transmission fluid over the years, but in this case it's for the power steering?
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2001 Ranger 4 liter 4 door My driver side window goes up and the electric motor does not stop running when the window reaches its normal upper position. Instead it goes bang-bang-bang until I take my finger off of the switch. I'm guessing there is a limit switch that should disconnect the motor but has failed. The bang-bang (again I'm guessing) probably is some sort of a spring loaded torque limiter to protect the motor. Other than that, the window goes up & down as it normally should. I have no problem digging into the door, except with the window, door lock and outside mirror switches, I don't have a clue regarding how to get the inside door panel off. I know to disconnect the battery 1st.
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My 2010 Santa Fe has an intermittent all window condensation problem, regardless whether the car has been idle overnight or whilst driving it has occurred on numerous occasions. In one case in the morning I had to use a towel to dry the inside windows. I have tried leaving the heater / AC on various settings but it still occurs. I have noticed that the door windows when I open / close them the seals do not touch the glass. In the short term the AC and fast windscreen/rear window buttons do clear the moisture but it does re-occur especially whilst driving...
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2003 2.7 ... Started and was running and the brake light and battery flickered and AR died. Now key does nothing. Tried new battery and nothing. If you put key in it chimes and does nothing else. Things that don't need a key work like hazards and horn and parking lights come on but turning the key has no effect. It's seems to not have power in the on or start position of the key. What does this point to? Ignition switch? Short somewhere?
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I have had the Santa Fe back and forth to the garage no power. We where driving it and all a sudden dropped power can't rev motor over 3000 rpm. Garage said they fixed it with dry gas and more gasoline b/c it was "low" between 1/4 and empty?
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On my '03 Santa Fe 2.7, this has happened twice, with 500 or so uneventful miles in between. At highway speed, it just all of a sudden loses power and will only go about 50 mph with accelerator to the floor. When you stop & put in neutral, it only revs to about 3000 rpm, with pedal to the floor -yet idles fine. Then when you shut it down, wait a few minutes & start it back up, it's fine. Is this a fuel problem or what?
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My friend has a 2003 4 cyl auto Elantra. His problem is strange, while driving the car is normal for maybe 1 - 5 hours then out of nowhere the car will only go 15-35mph and no matter how much you press the gas pedal the car will not accelerate. It is a bogged down loss of power not like it's just stuck in a low gear. This has been happening for a while now but now it's happening all the time and very frequently. Before he could shut the car off for 5 minutes and it would be ok for another 1-5 hours. It got so bad that he can only go 20 miles before it happens and now it seems the longer he lets the car sit off the longer he can go before the problem happens. Hyundai has had the car for a week and still have no clue what the problem is but it has not happened while they have had it. There is no CEL or any stored codes which is making this really hard.
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