Santa FE SM (2001-06) :: 2003 V6 Shudder When Press The Brakes
May 30, 2014
I have a 2003 Hyundai Sante Fe 2.7 v6. About 2 months ago I started the car and it was kind of a rough start. It usually starts right up. I was driving in the rain and when I would press the brakes the car would shudder like it wanted to turn off but the head lights and dash lights did not flicker. I had it towed to my mechanic. He found a broken vacum hose and replaced it. The car seemed fine.
Today it started up kinda rough and then would shudder and not accelerate no matter how hard I pressed on the gas pedal. It was also idling roughly.
I bought the car from a friend who was the first and only owner. She has ALL of the service records and took good care of it. It has about 120k miles on it. The spark plugs and battery are only about a year old. It has a half tank of gas. I checked all fluids, pulled a few plugs and they look fine too. Air filter is clean too.
I asked the previous owner if she had ever changed the fuel filter and she said she didn't think so. I reviewed the service records (assuming I have them all) and it doesn't look like it was ever done. I have run seafoam through it 3 times since I bought it last August. I change the oil regularly and rarely let the gas get below 1/4 tank.
View 10 Replies
Advertisement
I bought a 2011 Santa Fe in September and now that winter has set in up here, I find that when approaching a stop sign and there is black ice, I noticed that when you press on the brakes, it shudders. Almost jumps if you know what I mean. I've never had this experience and scared the crap out of me the first time. Is it normal? The only time it does this is when the wheels lock and slide on the ice. The brakes? I think then shudder. This is the first Hyundai I've ever owned and love it so far.
View 9 Replies
2003 Santa Fe 3.6 V6 with ABS
The car sat virtually driven for a year before it was given to me. After 2 weeks of normal driving this past December, the power brakes completely went out. Had to drive the pedal to the floor to stop at even slow speeds. Took the mechanic and they replaced the Master Cylinder and both brake lines.
Shortly thereafter had an unrelated issue with a coilpack gone bad. Replaced coilpack and at that time replaced both sets of brake pads on the rear.
In January, started noticing grinding metal on metal from both front brakes. Took the mechanic and they replaced both calipers, rotors, and pads.
2 weeks or so later, after 10 minutes of driving the front brakes started dragging. The pedal would become extremely hard, and I could notice thew smell of the pads burning. Would have to pull over, put the car in park and pump the brakes to get the calipers to release. This would occur intermittently every few days. Pumping the brakes would always solve the problem.
Over time, the issue became worse, ocurring far more frequently. Around this time I noticed leaving the engine on in park while pumping the brakes would no longer solve the issue. I would have to completely turn the car off and pump the brakes to get them to release.
Started noticing around this same time that the left rear started grinding. The brake pads completely wore down in 3 months time. Too to the mechanic. Replaced caliper, rotor and pads.
Still having the same issue with the brakes dragging. One mechanic thought it could be ABS related and advised me to pull the fuse and the two breakers to diagnose. Still had the same issue, so put the fuse and breakers back in.
No mechanic seems to know what is going on with it, and I'd hate to have to replace all the brakes again as the problem goes untreated. Is it possible that the master cylinder or brake booster could be the issue? It's a brand new master but that doesn't necessarily mean anything, I'm told. Again, I can only get the brakes to release the pressure by pumping the pedal with the engine off.
View 1 Replies
2003 Sante Fe is suddenly having a problem at stop lights or anytime the car is stopped with brakes. It feels as if the car is going to stall - or back fire. Very evident since it pulls on the brake pedal - just had back brakes replaced.
View 1 Replies
My 2005 Santa fe has a single knock when you press the accelerator, then between 60 and 70mph there is now a shake in the steering wheel. I have been told it is probably the CV joint and just wanted more input.
View 2 Replies
I have a 2002 Santa Fe 6cyl automatic GLS w/ 170k on it - great car - never a problem until about 20k miles ago, I started experiencing a shudder (like driving over a washboarded road) at 38-42 mph. If I accelerate quickly through this mph range (from 3rd to 4th gear), I can avoid it. Similarly, if I downshift back into 3rd, accelerate through and then upshift to 4th again at about 45mph, I can avoid it. It happens at a much lesser extent around 55-60mph. It has been to a reputable transmission shop that doesn't think its a tranny issue. Its been 4 days at a good mechanic and they can't find the problem. Its not throwing any codes and no other part of the vehicle seems to be affected. It has new tires/alignment less than 5k ago. I have suggested several things (ignition coil, torque converter, throttle control sensors) and they have checked these and more and don't find the problem.
View 9 Replies
My cruise control has been acting very funny lately. The light comes on normal all the time when I press on/off. However about half the time the cruise does not set when I press set. By this I mean, on Monday this week my cruise refused to set on my way to work, but on my way home it worked just fine. On Tuesday, the cruise worked perfect all day. Today, it did not work going to work or coming home.
View 6 Replies
Had a shudder/shaking sometimes on my 01 Superduty. Found left front caliper was sticking. Took it to a shop and he replaced both calipers and pads. Picking it up after he was done and he asked if I had the ABS light on before the work was done and I said NO. He tried and tried to get the light off but it is still on. Codes are C1155 and C1158. I got home and checked the abs connector it seemed ok. Looked at the master cylinder and it was a little low but also noticed he did not put the cap back on(it was just sitting aside). I kinda thought if he got air in the system....it would be a hard pedal but all works ok except for the ABS light. Will not go into how it shudders a little when stopping because he did not resurface the rotors like I asked. Maybe I should go back thru and bleed the brakes again?? The abs sensor on the hug is approx. 3 years old. and have never had the abs light on.
View 2 Replies
My '04 Santa Fe (135K miles) has been doing this for a little while.
Between 65 - 75 MPH on the highway, under acceleration, I experience what I can only describe as a "shudder".
I don't believe it's a wheel balance issue, because if I'm coasting or maintaining that speed everything is stable.
View 4 Replies
Ok here's the situation. 2004 Santa Fe 2.7 AWD 170,000 miles.
I recently had to replace the front passenger side Drive axle. That was a piece of cake. However, since then the car has developed a shudder when it comes to stop (felt like the shudder on acceleration that was fixed by the dealer with a reflash). Suddenly it got so bad that it stalls when put into gear with the brake on. It feels like it is not coming out of converter lockup.
When I drained the fluid I replaced it with Valvoline Import multi-vehicle full synthetic (it says it is spiII). I latter added another half quart of Castrol transmax import multi-vehicle (also spIII). Did I screw up my trans? Will a flush work? Or do I just need to replace the trans and torque converter?
View 4 Replies
I own a 2004 Santa Fe 3.5L AWD and recently when ever I drive at a highway speed 65mph or greater the ABS and Traction lights come on as well as the AWD indicator which lights up green and blinks. When this happens I feel a slight shudder in the drive line and I no longer have AWD, ABS or Traction control functioning. This condition continues until I stop and turn off and re-start the truck at which time everything is back to normal. It does not happen around town and I have had my local garage check for stored codes in the computer and there are none listed. We have also inspected the drive line on a lift and everything looks dry and fine. Other than that this truck runs and drives great.
View 3 Replies
I just bought my first truck and it is a 1999 (Made in late 1998) F250 7.3 Super Duty it is 2WD with rear ABS and has 290k miles on it.
It has what seems to be the common brake shudder while stopping. I know the only solution is to replace the rotors and I have been looking all over the forums and internet and just don't know what to go with.
I'll be using the truck to do light farm work, pickup lumber, get a bed load of dirt and maybe pull a normal car trailer every now and then.
I'm wanting to get something that will prove to be trouble free long term and be good enough for what I need with out over paying for something that I will never fully utilize. I have looked at
R1 Concepts
Frozen Rotor
EBC - which doesn't have 2wd front rotors
View 3 Replies
I got a problem with my 03 elantra, recently the car had a problem of stalling. I replaced the crank shaft sensor and that fix the problem, but the car always when idle and then press the gas to go feels like it has no power at all then all the sudden all power kicks in it only does that for a second when i press the gas. What I did was to replace the fuel filter that actually was extremely dirty,but no change i guess it could be the fuel pressure regulator.
View 10 Replies
When I first bought my 2001 f150 a few mos ago there were no problems but I did notice once in a while it would give one little shudder when id accelerate. now all the sudden it shudders after around 20 mph all the way up to whatever the speed limit is. Then it smooths right out until I have to accelerate again. if I punch the gas and kick it down it will clear up but then it feels more like a surging going on.
I had the cruise set at 70 the other day and I had to slow down to merge to around 50 and when I hit resume it really started shaking bad and the service engine soon light flashed on and off for a few minutes then went off and hasn't came back on again. I took it to advance auto and no codes showed up. they said its probably the torque converter but after reading multiple forums I am not so sure now.
View 10 Replies
2001 f250 7.3L, 289,000 miles, changed the IPR and ICP, noticed the EBP tube was in two pieces. Would this cause the rough idle and shaking? IT started running rough and would die after a mile or two. Would have to wait 30 minutes before it would start again. That is when a buddy told me to change the IPR and ICP the ICP plug was covered in oil as well as the top of the ICP. So I changed the wiring plug as well. I originally cleaned and changed O-rings on IPR but then it wouldn't start, bought a new IPR and started but runs rough. I just started it with EBP tube removed and sensor unplugged. Idling rough when I press accelerator and RPM go above 2K it levels off pouring black smoke everywhere.
View 3 Replies
My rear brakes keep wearing out extremely prematurely (2,000-7,000 mile intervals) and have been for 60,000+ miles. (No joke my mechanic has warrantied the rotors and pads over and over literally like 10 times) its the insides pads of the back that wear down while the outsides and front are fine...is the proportioning valve causing this problem or is it something else? We've changed the calipers and brake hosed
View 17 Replies
I have a 2001 Ford Excursion Limited 7.3l with 199,980 miles on it.
It has a TS-6. My first problem is that when I come to a stop or slow down to a crawl then press the accelerator the engine stalls and dies. I have looked and looked at threads and can not find this example anywhere. There is no pressing the pedal and it remains at idle. It dies, shuts off, quiets. I have thought icp, tps, ivs
Second problem is that a/c is blowing hot. Other than being out of Freon, what could be other things to check. It does sometime go to default, but has done so in awhile. It does not blow cold in rear and hot in front. They both blow hot. I have replaced the pvh sensor.
View 1 Replies
I have a Hyundai Santa Fe 2005 2.7L 4WD ABS.
The problem is that the Brakes pedal is so soft, that it goes to the floor, and doesn't brake at all in first pedaling. I am able to apply brakes after pumping the pedal thrice in continuation and then when it builds up some pressure, then it brakes and I'm able to stop the car. Once, I take the foot out of the pedal, it goes bad again. Once, again if I have to apply brakes, I have to do 3-4 times pedaling.
The brakes are stopping the car fine when they get applied in 3rd or 4th pedaling and when pressure is built up. Its the pressure not getting built up or maintained in the first go.
What has been done by the mechanics to solve this:
1. Master Cylinder has been replaced with a new one. (This has been done twice)
2. Brake Pads have been changed.
3. Brake fluid has been replaced and is upto the brim in cylinder reservoir.
View 7 Replies
When i press the brake pedal the brakes seem to start working ,but they dont apply enough pressure to actually stop the car from speed , it's just happened car was fine yesterday , also i've noticed when i start the car , and press pedal with my hand there is a air leak noise behind the pedal , and a faint low pitched tone noise as well , its as if the servo isnt working fully.
View 2 Replies
I have a 2007 Santa Fe, I have been having issues with the power. I tap the brakes and the lights go dim and come back on. Then when the truck is turned off then back on I have nothing like the truck is dead. I replaced the battery and still same issue. I then replaced the alternator and I thought it was good. Just today I decided the use the keyless remote to lock the truck and it locked but not horn sound. I tried to unlock the truck with the remote and nothing. I opened the door and no lights. Turn the key and nothing. The battery still has power to hit. What it could be?
View 6 Replies
2002 Santa Fe has Shimmy when applying brakes. Had tire balanced and rotated-no change. New brakes with life time pads one year ago. Rotors were turned. Should I replace the rotors and pads or just rotors? Am I on the right track for repairs?
View 2 Replies
