Santa FE SM (2001-06) :: 2003 - Sudden Power Drop And Cannot Rev Motor Over 3000 RPM
Jan 19, 2014
I have had the Santa Fe back and forth to the garage no power. We where driving it and all a sudden dropped power can't rev motor over 3000 rpm. Garage said they fixed it with dry gas and more gasoline b/c it was "low" between 1/4 and empty?
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My 03 (129k miles, 2.7 AWD) is up to date on all maint (this summer saw new timing belt etc., transmission service) and oil is current. Spark plugs are due at 131k. Air filter is new, tire pressure maintained at 30-32psi.
MPG has consistently been ~20, slightly more on trips. October 27 to November 26 was 19.8 mpg. Putting on brand new snows (General Altimax Arctic) knocked it down to 17.5 mpg for the next ~250 miles. However, since early December it's dropped again to 13 mpg!
Mechanic just checked for brake drag (none - rotating one wheel turns all 3 others easily); no pulling, rolls well in Neutral. No engine symptoms (missing, bucking) or CEL lights. Power seems a little diminished (for instance, it takes longer to shift during acceleration sequence).
I will add my Lucas Oil gas treatment just in case it may be injectors. My mechanic says he has seen MPG suffer from certain gas brands (and I do wonder if the tank fillup after which the MPG dropped had something to do with it).
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On my '03 Santa Fe 2.7, this has happened twice, with 500 or so uneventful miles in between. At highway speed, it just all of a sudden loses power and will only go about 50 mph with accelerator to the floor. When you stop & put in neutral, it only revs to about 3000 rpm, with pedal to the floor -yet idles fine. Then when you shut it down, wait a few minutes & start it back up, it's fine. Is this a fuel problem or what?
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I've got a couple of issues with a 2002, 2.7ltr v6 santa fe first off when taking off steady the car runs fine but taking off quickly it seems to lack power until it hits around 3000-3500rpm est then it takes off fine and all threw the upper rev range the auto seams sluggish but I'm not shore as I haven't driven another 2.7ltr as a benchmark. No error codes are present.
The second issue I brought a new keyless remote for the car and looked up a thread on how to program this they had reference to a set switch behind the fuse box behind the lower dash panel I went looking and found what I think is the remote receiver it has what is like a antenna cable plugged into it but no set-off switch at all is there any way to get this new remote programed or will it have to be done threw dealer or is there something I would be missing?
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I had my Honda Odyssey transmission replaced 2 years ago. The past few months, in the first mile that I drive the car on streets in our neighborhood, the car goes into high RPMs (about 3000) before it seems to drop into gear. It does this 2 or 3 times then works fine after that. The "Check engine" light is now on all the time. Sometimes, the car does one other weird thing--the high RPMs end with the drive/D4 light flashing on and off like a blinker (even if I change gears to D3. When this happens, if I turn the ignition off it comes back on and seems to function fine. I have had it back to the shop that did the work about 4-5 times to get it right. I like the guys but each time they return it to me, the problem remains. I took a 2000 mile trip with it and with the exception of this persistent problem, the van worked fine.
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All of a sudden my fuel consumption dropped from 28mpg as read from the computer display in the dash, to 21mpg. This was not a gradual drop, it was at 28mpg one day and 21mpg the next day. There is no service light on, do these cars produce codes that don't trigger the service light?
A few months ago the vehicle was getting stuck in various gears and lunging, this was from battery corrosion dripping down and eating away at the transaxle range sensor. I cleaned up the battery and replaced the range sensor and the vehicle was driveable again. It re-learned the shift timing and seemed to be ok, then about a month ago it seemed to be forgetting the learned shift positions after sitting over night, I replaced the battery, thinking it was in a marginal state where it would forget the program while sitting. The shifting is still hard sometimes but this seems to have worked but, now my mileage is horrible.
I thought I'd just change out the oxygen and air flow sensors but, then looked at how much they cost now, and realized this would be some costly trial and error. Is there a methodical way to troubleshoot this issue, any way to pull the sensors and measure them?
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I was driving down the road and the car was driving great. all of the sudden I heard a clunk and the car lost power and started shuddering. I made it home and cut the car off. When I start it now, the car runs rough and stalls out. I can't get it to a place to check the codes so I am trying to self diagnose. I was thinking it might be the MAF so I took it out and cleaned it well. there is still no change in the way the car runs. it seems like the fuel isn't getting to the engine as I put my foot on the gas pedal it stalls out. I'm not too excited about buying a throttle body if it's the MAF. It could possibly be something else.
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My 2009 with the 3.3 motor will rev up when cold drop to a low idle then surge up again. It will do this until it is warm even when in drive. It never did this before only in the winter it would start at fast idle for a minute then drop to normal idle. There are no codes or lights, what would cause this?
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I've read quite a few threads on this subject and came across the resistor, fuses, and relays. I have some fundamental testing procedure questions.
1. To test the resistor, it says to back probe the brown/orange wire to check for voltage. So I'm assuming I would hook up my positive lead, here?
Do I really need to hook up the black lead all the way to the negative terminal on the battery? Just with a long extension? Or is there somewhere else I can hook the black lead to? (I know, how dumb!)
2. I downloaded owners manual, but I can't seem to find a fuse or relay specifically for the blower, so what fuse and what relay is it?
3. In the Haynes manual, it says locate the blower motor relay, in the relay box under the center dash panel, where the hell is that?
4. Do I need to remove the glove box to access the resistor and blower hosting.
5. Anything else I should know?
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the wife's '01 Excursion has developed a new idling quirk. While sitting, it will briefly drop rpm's. You can hear it, and see it on the tach gauge. No other noises or problems, except for the brief drop in rpm's.
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I ran out and test drove a new to me 2001 F350 7.3L tonight. Everything seemed good, until I got back from the test drive. I pulled in and was sitting there with it idling. It seemed to idle fine, then a very small miss and very small shimmy then idle fine again; then another small miss and another shimmy. It continued like clockwork. Every time it seemed to miss and shimmy, the RPM would drop just a little, but not much. Does an ICP sensor sound like the problem, or maybe something more serious? 2001 F350 7.3L with 235,733 miles new trans, turbo replaced at 150,000 something miles. No blow by. Idled fine before driving, also drove fine. It doesn't seem to surge when idling, just kind stalls and shimmys for a split second then idles fine for a few seconds.
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Last week my wife's 2004 Santa Fe with 68k went into limp mode, when I ran the code reader it came up with throttle position sensor and pedal position sensor. After fixing both the car runs great except for a Grabby or sudden shift from 2nd to 3rd. It shifts at about the right rpm but very hard. I am wondering if there is trans codes that need to be reset that my code reader is not able to do.
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I have. 2001 excursion with a 7.3l deisel. 167100 miles
It runs great but if it sets over night when the motor is cold it will not start.
You have to plug the block heater in for about an hour or more for it to start.
To me it seems like glow plugs are not working? It had new glow plugs out in from the po.
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How to fix a speedometer reading fluctuation? When I am driving about 45 mph the speedometer will drop to zero (RPM does not change) and then will bounce. Some times the speedometer will remain at zero other times it will bounce back to indicating speed.
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I had to make a left hand turn very quickly into a gas station. I moved in 1st gear and accelerated quickly (went around 3,200 RPM). When I stopped in the parking spot, clutch disengaged, brake pedal engaged, the engine was still spinning at 3,000 RPM!!!! I waited until the engine calmed itself down to idle RPM but it was stuck at 3,000 RPM.
Something wrong with the accelerator? I put the car back in 1st gear and rocked forward a couple of inches so I can put a load on the engine. I put the gear back in neutral and the engine calmed down to idle RPM. Something was stuck? Bad computers? Bad design?
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My feed truck (2001 ext cab 4x4 7.3 198k) had a cold starting issue I fixed with new gp relay. Now I noticed when it gets down below 30 degrees it has a cylinder miss until motor warms up. I don't doubt injectors are in my future. I was wondering though if that is common for worn injectors or if maybe something else has gone haywire and how long can I run it like that before something else tears up? after about 7-10 min the miss goes away and I don't notice it. I would like to get through the winter before messing with it or having injectors put in it...
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I've noticed on first start up the RPMs go as high as 3000 for a couple of seconds and then drop to normal even at 68' degrees,is that normal? because if it is what will aspect when the temperature drops to 20 or even lower.It is a 2.5 liter 4.
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I have a 2001 santafe with a 4 cyl The code 102 was up so I replaced the mass air flow censer . I go on a test drive and the light stays off , but when I go to re start it again the light come on and stays on, with the same code. The only strange thing is the idle will raise for a min then drop down to almost a stall.
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So yesterday, I reset my trip meter when I put on gas. I did a 7 mile drive home (no highways) MPG was around 54. This morning, my husband pulls the car from the garage to the driveway to install my name plates. When I start the car, I noticed MPG was 41. What could have caused the sudden overnight shift from 54 to 41. I only drove 3 miles to work since then so it is hovering around 42. Could the cold morning start to back up from garage did something? Could he have left the power switch on (and it shut off automatically).
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Our 2012 Tiguan (FWD) has been experiencing a sudden drop in MPG for the past two weeks. We had no significant change in climate or driving habits. With mixed driving, we dropped from about 24 MPG to 20 MPG. We had our 40K service done just two weeks ago.
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I have an 08 2.0T and it just suddenly had a huge drop in gas mileage. I recently had new tires put on and an oil change (about 35k miles). getting closer to 40k miles now and wondering what could be causing this. Usually I get about 30-33 mpg easy on the highway. Now I'm getting 24-26 mpg. Already checked the tire pressures. they're to spec. no gas leaks from what i can see.
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