Santa FE SM (2001-06) :: 2003 Shut Off When Stopped At Traffic Light
Jun 5, 2015
Was in town stopped at a traffic light when my 2003 Santa Fe just shut off. No warning, started right back up again, no CEL, no DTCs. Scary. I'm happy it happened with me driving the car instead of my daughter driving. Also happy it didn't happen on the highway.
I've had hard starting issues for a while now. Replaced crank sensor, it's fine for a few starts, then goes back to hard starting, but I hadn't had a problem in a few weeks.
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I have a 2003 Hyundai Santa Fe. Within the last 2 months or so I have changed my timing belt, spark plugs, and all belts that needed to be changed. I notice that when I am idle at a traffic light, the car is a little rough or bumpy. Is this normal for its age, or should I be looking at something specific.
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I've been noticing an odd noise in the brake pedal in our '03 Santa Fe. I don't hear it all the time (almost never on the highway), but especially hear it in stop-and-go traffic. It's sort of a whirr, a "RRrrr". I've googled and watched YT videos and it's definitely not a hissing sound or a grinding sound, nor do I notice any difference in the brakes' responsiveness.
I'm apprehensive of taking it to the dealer for service because I only plan to have this vehicle for at most three more weeks. Have only held onto it this long because we couldn't afford to replace it until we sold our house-- which we've just done, and are about to move to a city about an hour away on 7/5. We'll trade in the car within a couple of weeks of moving.
The noise is definitely from the pedal and isn't anything like squeaking brake pads (I currently live in the DC metro area, so squeaky brakes become very familiar with all the stop-start traffic!). The videos I've found that point to a booster problem have a decided hiss, and it's not that either. Don't want to be unsafe in the time we've got left, but also don't want to throw another thousand bucks (every time something breaks in that darn thing, it always seems like it's about $800) into a car we won't have in a month's time.
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Recently with sunny days, 25-30 degrees celsius, my late 06' CRDI Santa Fe starts to shut off while in the traffic jam. After engine restart car runs fine while idling but after i put in Drive (its a 5 speed AT) it shuts off again. After 2-3 restarts i may able to pull my car aside the road and let it cool. One other thing i have noticed is the temperature gauge. The needle is sitting slightly under middle mark and my torque app shows 114-115 degrees celsius ? It is pretty high dont you think ? Sometimes its over the middle bar and then my OBD torque app shows 120 degrees. I would exclude Crankshaft position sensor, because car restarts just fine, if it was CPS then it should not start for a while?
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What is wrong with my car. It drives fine for a while every day then out of the blue starts hesitating and sounding like it wants to shut off when we're at a traffic light. It gets worse when I am making a turn, like it hesitates to pick up speed and starts like sputtering. When my car does this the muffler starts smoking really bad. The smoke is not a black color it is white. When it feels like it's going to turn off, I have to put it in Neutral then it stops. They did say the fuel pump wasn't bad so I am assuming spark plugs??? What may be causing this problem?
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I'm at 55k and over the past 2k-3k miles I have noticed my idle getting rougher and rougher when stopped at a light. I took it to my garage and they cleaned the fuel injection system/throttle body/MAF sensor. When I got the car beck it felt a little better but the idle is still pretty rough.
Compared to my wife's '09 Sienna, it is a lot more noticeable that the car is on. I'm in Florida so the AC is on. When I put the car in neutral, the idle become smooth.
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Have a 03 Kia Optima with a 2.4L engine with 120K. The car recently started overheating occasionally mainly while stopped in traffic. Both fans are running and as soon as I get rolling, the temp gauge goes down. I've noticed that it only happens while the trans is in gear. if I put it in neutral, the temp will drop to normal.
I replaced the thermostat and radiator cap thinking these may have been contributors. I also replaced the temp sensor because it controls both the gauge & the cooling fan. Both fans operate with the a/c on but the single fan will not come on with a/c off. I tried another pcm from the salvage yard but still get the same operation. My next thought is to install a separate trans cooler to the radiator which is only 2 to 3 years old.
What could be causing this overheating & how can I fix it? When it does over heat, I usually turn the heater on full blast to bring the temp down. Car is in great shape and would like to get it back to normal.
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So this morning I was driving to work - normal driving no hard accelerations. As I stopped at a trafic light the car felt going into a limp mode? - engine started to misfire - no smoke from exhaust - but felt is was going to stall. Also the idle started fluctuate from low 600 to high 1100. At low RPMs the engine felt stalling but when I drove around 3000 RPM in 4, 5th gear felt fine.
I was able to plug in the APR dongle and got 7 fault codes: 1)DTC Not Found, 2) Idle Air Control System RPM HIgher than Expected; 3) Random/Multiple Cylinder Misfire Detected and 4,5,6 and 7) Cylinder 1,3,4,2 Misfire Detected.
I am APR 1+ with VWR CAI, 20K on 93 oct.
Coil? Injector? Manifold? HPFP?
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I stopped at traffic light and my car went off and won't start again. I had it towed home, it will jump start and keep on running as long as the jump start pack stays connected. As soon as i disconnect the jumpstarter it shuts off. There are no warning lights on the dash while engine is running. My guess is alternator is bad and car ran on battery till battery was discharged and the it stopped on the road. Now if this was the case shouldn't there be a battery and/or break warning light on the dash while car is running on battery?
Also if it were a battery problem then the car should run on power from the alternator once it's jump started right? In which case there should be a battery warning light on the dash right? I know the dash lights aren't bad because when i turn the key to the on position all the lights show up, including the battery light. I will like to take out the alternator and bring it the the shop for testing but before doing this I'll like some input since I'm not very convinced it's the alternator because there's no battery signal on the dash while engine is running on battery.
Car is: 2004 Nissan Murano AWD CVT trans106K Miles
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My wife drives a 2002 civic (mostly around town). when the car is at running temp.with the heater on and she gets top a stop sign or red traffic light, the heater starts to blow out cold/colder air. We took the car to a dealer and asked them to flush/fill the radiator and fix the problem. Well they flushed/filled the radiator and said "Yup, it still does it. Would you like us to diagnose the problem more for a minimum of 1 hour labor cost?" What could be the problem with the reduction in heat?
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My traction control light comes on sporadically when I am stopped at a light. Roads are dry and I have not hit anything. What is going on?
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This weekend was a nice high 80's low 90's. My AC is usually ice cold. However now that the weather hit that high, when we are in stop-and-go traffic, the AC starts blowing warm humid air. I do see the temperature need creep a bit higher than the normal range.
Once we start driving, after a few minutes, the climbs back down and the cold AC returns. Turning the fan speed down, or turning the compressor off, then on again, seems to work.
What could be causing this? A friend said he has this issue with his car claiming the engine is the issue, not being powerful enough to keep the compressor running right, is that possible?
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Have no OD, when you press the OD button nothing happens and then the OD light flashes until she's shut down. On start up no flashing until OD button pressed. All other gears shift lovely. Haven't checked codes yet.
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Sitting in stopped traffic for about 45 minutes and AC slowly starts blowing warmer air. Temp about 95 and very humid. Felt like AC just freezing up, but no frost on anything when I looked under hood. Hoping freon problem. About to start looking at it this morning.
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My 2003 Hyundai sante fe would not shut off. I had to disconnect the battery in order to kill the engine. The one thing I did notice was the ignition assembly didn't seem to have anymore kickback to it when engaging the starter. It just turns freely. weird, I hooked the battery back up and noticed that all my dashboard lights came back on with the key in my hand. I new something in the switch must be broken. I ordered both a new key and tumbler and also the ignition starter switch. When going to install it I notice that the cam looking part is the culprit.
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2003 3.5 v6 GLS 141k Miles
So, i changed my oil recently, and at the same time changed both valve cover gaskets (front and rear were leaking). From time to time now, the oil light comes on, and goes off, flickers as i drive over bumps, but cant figure out what the problem is. Since the word "Oil" is too short of a term to search for on the forum it was hard to find many posts about it.
When i changed the valve cover gaskets, i went ahead and changed the plugs and wires as well, no Milkshake, no oil on plugs, .90 on the plugs (originals with 137k miles on them, ouch!) i had a small oil leak for a short time after i changed the oil (first time ive changed it on this vehicle) so i did not know how tight the oil filter had to be, but a slight tighten fixed that leak.
The car has the correct filter, using 10-30 (im in the desert) oil is staying right smack dab in the middle of the line, no burned smell from the oil, no milkshake on the dipstick, no oil in the coolant, Im at a loss on what to do next.
I have a tiny leak from the oil pan gasket, but nothing major, plan to replace this with my next oil change.
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Have a used 2003 Santa Fe /w 2.4 . 150.000 miles .
It shuts down at any speed . seems to cut out mostly when cornering and applying the brakes. Check engine lite stays on . code p401 cnf
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I have a Santa Fe 2001, 2.0 Crdi.
My low beam have shut down. I have checked the fuse for right and left, and as I can see, it's the same fuse as for the high beam ...
Is there any known problems regarding this faults ? Of course, the bulbs are ok ...
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As I was driving today, I flipped the fan on in my Saturn to clear the windshield. Shortly after I did that, my radio shut down, and wipers slowed down. Car still ran. After stopping for awhile, I began to head home, stopped at a red light, and all electrical shut down as soon as I turned on my turn signal. Wipers, lights, etc. Car still ran, so I went to the nearest parking lot. Engine started running rough when I opened the door, then it quit & would not re-start. We just replaced the battery (original) in December & I am thinking this might be the alternator? My car has never given me one bit of trouble (except for the dead battery) until now.
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The driver's side map light went out. I have the plastic cover off, but I can't get the bulb out. Is there a trick to this or does more than the bulb come out?
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My car has the same issue, its a 2001 santa 2.4 . Its starts and then shut off after 3 seconds. camshaft was replaced twice already. still same issue, die after 3 seconds. everything seems to be fine.
What about fuel pressure at the rails? If the pump runs for a moment when the key is turned to the on position then when cranking it stops. That would let the engine start and run for about three seconds. Could it be the ignition switch?
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