2003 Santa Fe - Loss of power while driving on highway. Dropped from 60 to 15 MPH in matter of seconds. Feels like a couple of cylinders (3.5 liter) are not working.
View 2 RepliesOn my '03 Santa Fe 2.7, this has happened twice, with 500 or so uneventful miles in between. At highway speed, it just all of a sudden loses power and will only go about 50 mph with accelerator to the floor. When you stop & put in neutral, it only revs to about 3000 rpm, with pedal to the floor -yet idles fine. Then when you shut it down, wait a few minutes & start it back up, it's fine. Is this a fuel problem or what?
View 6 RepliesI am using a Hyundai Santa Fe (Petrol, 2011 Model) here in Saudi Arabia. On July 17 (11:30 pm), I was driving in a highway at about 80-90 kms/hr when suddenly my vehicle lost power (steering wheel, brake, etc).
Baed on the diagnosis of our company mechanic, it was an alternator problem. He said the alternator bearing got stuck up.
Prior to this incident, on July 7, the same vehicle got stalled twice while it's parked. In the first case, I was able to use it after jumpstarting. In the second case in the same day (4 hours after the first case), jump starting didn't work so they have to replace it with a temporary used battery. I noticed that I had a hard start (the engine responds only after 3-4 key ignition). After replacing the battery with new one, I was able to drive normally from July 9 to Jul 17, and then the incident happened as I described in the first paragraph.
Question: Is there a way to detect the alternator bearing problem before it actually breaks down? If there is, what procedure or predictive test is normally followed to identify potential problems in an alternator?
My daughter was driving our 3.5L Santa Fe on the highway when it decelerated. Stepping on gas and no acceleration. She said she got a CEL and oil light. She was able to pull over to the side of highway and turned ignition off and on and she was able to drive off the highway and called me. She was about 120 miles from home. She said the cel light and check oil light were now off and I had here check the oil and it was at full.
I had her drive in the right hand lane without going over 60 and she made it home no problem. I took it out for a drive and no issues. Do you think this is a crankshaft position sensor problem?
mileage is 170k - timing belt was replaced at 130k.
I have a Santa fe 2002 crd 2.0 4x4 and recently had a lot of black smoke and a loss of power when driving, it starts fine but when revving it blows black smoke from exhaust and has no power to pull away, been told its possible turbo problem or fuel problem.
View 1 RepliesBought my Santa Fe GLS less than 2 months ago and ran fine. Last week, went to store no problems and then went out 5 minutes later, put it in reverse and it stalled. I go to the store, and it lacks MAJOR power.
Now, if I leave it alone for a while it will normally start right up. While idling, everything seems fine. Then my "ghost" takes over the vehicle making it less responsive to the gas pedal. Also, at 3000 rpm, it sounds like its skipping a cylinder. When reading the gauge, it skips between 3000rpm to abut 2800 rpm.
Today, while driving on the highway, my heater just quit working. My car is equipped with the automatic climate controls and so I switched it to manual mode to see if the heat would come back. The heat does not seem to be mixing at all with the air.
One weird thing is that if I set the temperature to 90 degrees then the A/C mode will turn off and blow pure hot air. However, if I go to 89 degrees then the heat will stop and the A/C will turn on again. Turning off the A/C manually does not bring the heat back.
What could be wrong? I might just try unplugging and reconnecting the controls since I was messing with the radio a couple of days ago.
My friend has a 2003 4 cyl auto Elantra. His problem is strange, while driving the car is normal for maybe 1 - 5 hours then out of nowhere the car will only go 15-35mph and no matter how much you press the gas pedal the car will not accelerate. It is a bogged down loss of power not like it's just stuck in a low gear. This has been happening for a while now but now it's happening all the time and very frequently. Before he could shut the car off for 5 minutes and it would be ok for another 1-5 hours. It got so bad that he can only go 20 miles before it happens and now it seems the longer he lets the car sit off the longer he can go before the problem happens. Hyundai has had the car for a week and still have no clue what the problem is but it has not happened while they have had it. There is no CEL or any stored codes which is making this really hard.
View 1 RepliesNeed to diagnose a problem with my 2001 Prius. I was driving it on the highway when suddenly the hybrid system warning light and the main battery light, along with the check engine light came on. I pulled over, turned off the car, and turned it back on. The main battery light error cleared but the Hybrid System warning light stayed on as did the check engine light.
I took my car into the dealership and they told me that the 12V battery was probably low at some point but that they didn't find any problems.
The error codes that came up were: C1215, C1241, C1259, C1521, C1522, C1558, and C1559.
We have had had our Santa Fe for a year, done 38000 km and love it. The car will start up and drive around town fine but as soon as the engine is under load at highway speeds or driving up a hill it loses all power.
In Automatic when this happens the gear will drop back to third. You can switch it over to manual mode and slowly accelerate back up to around 80-90km/hour with your foot flat to the floor but the rpm don't get above around 2000 to 3000.
If you stop and turn the engine off for a minute or so, when you start again everything will appear to back to normal but after another minute or two the problem will be back. The engine malfunction light comes on and sometime it's flashing but at other times it's constant.
The car's been in at our local Hyundai dealer for a week but at this stage they still can't quite figure out the exact cause of the problem. The code they pulled out suggested it was the exhaust particulate filter (apparently quite an expensive part) so they replaced that but it didn't fix it. They've also replaced the fuel filter and some temperature sensors that are part of the particulate filter apparently but still no joy.
I've been driving my V10 for 3 years now without a problem. The other day, while I was on the Highway in Italy driving at around 140KM/H, I suddenly had a loss of power. I could continue to drive the car, but I had no more tork... I stopped at the next gas station, turn the engine off, turned it on again, and the car drove normally again as before. About 200KM later the same happened again...
I went to check with the dealer - he hooked up the car to the computer - and told me that they had to change both turbos... What I find weird is that when I turn the car off and on again it works again. If the turbos would be defective, they wouldn't work again just by turning the car on and off. I think that it is more a problem with the turbo controller and if that's the case why change both turbo.
Ok, so I was driving normal highway speeds and all of a sudden, I realize a major drop in power. I pull over and restart it and it changes nothing. Now when I floor it, it takes 20-30 seconds to get to 90K.
I checked the air filter... Nothing. Used a code reader... Nothing. Then I decided to pressure test the cylinders... Nothing, except now the check engine light is on.
The Ol Dub is still drivable, but it is extremely slow and rough at idle. I am thinking it might be a MAF or fuel filter.
I have a 2003 Santa Fe, 2.4L. I think some snow got onto the power window switch panel, then melted and fried something. While driving, the driver side window will go down by itself. What's more, when I turn my headlights on, the window goes down as if the headlight switch is the switch for the window.
How I could fix this? Is there a way to disable the power window altogether? I'd rather do that in the meantime if it's going to require some expensive diagnosis and fix from the mechanic.
The car started rough idling and a few weeks ago while driving "lost power" momentarily. I went to take a look at it and even just idling it will randomly drop 1000 rpm, or when the gas is one in P it does the same thing. also the dash lights dim at the same time.
I pulled these codes (below). I cleared the codes and tried to replicate with no luck. The car had been sitting in a parking lot outside for a few days and it has been -15C. I asked if it seemed to only happen when it was warm (the week before it was +10C) and they said yes. It has been another week (still cold) and the codes have not returned.
Quick google of these codes suggests maybe a throttle position sensor and/or loose battery connection.
We have an '03 Santa Fe (2.4L). We are the original owners.
About 18 months ago, one of our Ignition Coils cracked and caused a misfire when then engine was under load. I replaced the coil, wires, and plugs myself at that time.
Since that time, we have experienced intermittent engine jerking while at highway speeds. There does not seem to be any pattern, and it does not happen every time we drive it.
I took it to the dealer who diagnosed a valve cover leak. They replaced the gasket, one ignition coil, wires and plugs. The problem still happened intermittently after that. I brought it back to the dealer, who diagnosed a valve guide/seat leak. Oil is getting into the cylinder and fouling the plug they say.
I could not afford the fix (and was very dissatisfied by the service I received) so the dealer recommended to change the plugs every 3 - 5K miles to get me through. I was told this on 03/31/09 (125695 miles). I replaced the plugs, wires, and BOTH coils again at that time.
Last week @ 130K miles the engine jerked again. I replaced all four plugs again Sunday morning, but the ones that I pulled were NOT look oil fouled. I showed them to a mechanic friend and the guy at the auto parts store. Both agreed that the spark plugs looked almost new. Sunday evening, while driving on the freeway, the car jerked again!
Since this happened again SO soon after changing the plugs, I really have a hard time believing the valve guide diagnosis. Some possibilities I have seen/heard:
- Crank position sensor or camshaft sensor (This was replaced at 78K miles along with the all of the belts)
- Clogged fuel filter
- Bad O2 sensor
- Vacuum leak from the hose that is between the throttle body and the engine casing
- The dealer's valve seat suggestion
My father owns a 2003 Santa Fe GLS with the 2WD 2.7L V6 engine.
Recently it has been having lots of power loss issues. It vibrates/misses when idling, if you put your foot down on the gas pedal, whether under load or not, it sometimes stalls or just sits there. We took it to Hyundai, and they had no error codes. They charged us $150 to tell us nothing is wrong with it, when clearly something is. The car has become downright dangerous to drive because it cannot make it up hills without stalling/losing power.
The most recent thing we had done to it was the wires/spark plugs changed, which I think was at 65k on the odometer?
Today I took my AWD 2.7 Santa Fe out. All seemed fine until I made a turn... I noticed I was loosing power and came to a stop, despite pressing the gas pedal fully. The car then started to vibrate extremely hard and all of the dash lights came on. The car stalled completely. I tried to start the car again, but it took a few tries. The car shook severely in park, but when put in drive immediately became much worse and then completely stalled. I did this many times trying to get out of the street. I finally got it to work good enough to get off the road - I did however notice that it would not shift out of 1st gear. It had very high rpms, but refused to shift.
I am guessing this is the crankshaft position sensor? Could this be a MAF problem? I believe I read on this forum about high humidity making Santa Fes go crazy - it has been over 95% today, and raining. I managed to get the car down the road to a shop we trust. They are going to try and read codes later.
I own a 02 fwd v6 Santa Fe that just lost power on the interstate. It will go about 20 miles an hour and basically does not change gear unless it is in manual mode. I was able to drive it to a local repair shop but they are having trouble figuring out what is wrong with it.
First, they told me the plugs and wires were bad, changed those and still no power. Next, they told me it was the fuel pump, change that and still no power. Next, they said it was the catalytic converters but the said they unhooked them to test the theory and it still had not powered. They said it may need back pressure from the cats so that may not work. They want me to buy them but they are very expensive especially on a guess. Next, they told me if that does not fix it is must be the transmission. Will the cats off keep it from running due to back pressure? Does it sound like a transmission issue or could it be something else?
Initially I used to get cutting out of the engine randomly whilst driving which everyone believes is linked to an ECU issue i believe...I added some reddex fuel cleaner and that seemed to clear the problem up for myself which is a diesel 2.2 ...
However I was beginning to have starting issues where i would need to pump the gas to get the car started...I changed the battery and the glow plugs and yet i was still having issues. I had the air intake and filter looked a diagnostic test run both showing no issues and then one day I was driving and suddenly i got a huge loss of power and black smoke out of the exhaust....Seriously i had no grunt and i was a hazard to cars behind me....!!!! It was weird how first thing in the morning it seemed fine but later in the day i was getting this problem over and over again and eventually the car wouldnt start without a jump from another vehicle..
Any how i took it to various garages but in the end i took it to Rockar Hyundai at Dartford (i cannot recommend enough) but simply all they did was look at the fuel filter and saw that one of the injectors were faulty...After changing this the problem still occurred but again only when the car was warm...They then looked at the pipes leading to the injector that was faulty and then found that there was a crack/split in it and obviously when cold it was sealed but when warm was opening and i believe letting in air.... Anyhow they have changed that and the car feels great and no issues...
2004 2.4L Hyundai Santa Fe here, died whilst travelling, lost all power and then wouldn't start. Sounds like its trying to turn over.
The fuel cut off seems to have been activated as it clicked when I pushed it but the car still wont start.
I do not have any engine management lights but when connecting the code reader I got P0320, however the code was stored but not present... and still the car will not start. I cleared the code and the code didn't re appear but the car will still not start.
As the code isn't immediately present does this mean the sensor is at fault or do I have other problems?
I just recently bought an 06 Santa Fe with a 2.7l v6. It was a rebuild. It had been hit in the left wheel. The lot put a new fender, suspension parts, axle, etc. It only has 25k actual miles.
We took it on a 100 mile trip today. I noticed if I am going up hill and it has to downshift, it feels like it looses power. The car continues to slow... Like the tranny is slipping. I stopped at Walmart and found the tranny fluid wouldn't even register on the dipstick. I bought Valvoline max life tranny fluid that matches the sp3 specs in the manual. I had to add almost 3 quarts before it was full. I think they may have forgot to add fluid back to replace what leaked out after they replaced the axle It didn't seem to work though when I continued to drive. After I stopped and let it cool about 30 minutes, it did seem a little better.
I guess my question is should I replace the tranny fluid? If so, what should I replace it with? Is there anything else what could be causing this now?