Santa FE SM (2001-06) :: 2003 Hyundai Won't Start In Park
Sep 4, 2014
Two times in the last month my 2003 Sante Fe would not start - the radio, air conditioning would come on but nothing from the engine - not even a click - no check engine light. Had it towed both times - as soon as it was towed it would start up. It seems to happen in 2 week intervals. Now I realize bc they had it in neutral to get on the truck that is what facilitates it start. It hasn't happened in a week but I know it will again.
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I have a 2004 Hyundai Santa Fe 2.4 L. Front wheel drive. Cranks over won't start, replaced crankshaft sensor & camshaft sensor, no spark. Where do I go from here?
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When I start it up it won't idle untill you give it gas to 2500 rpms and slowly let off the pedal to 1000 rpms to keep it running and itll stay running. When you turn it off you have to redo it all over again. The plugs and wires were replaced. It started doing it couple days after the back 3 plugs and wires were replaced. Just got the fuel pressure regulator replaced and it still wont start up without giving it gas.
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I have been getting a 2006 Santa Fe GLS A/T back on the road for friend who let it sit for almost 2 years because the bumper had gotten knocked off. I charged the battery to get the car to start and it started up OK, but the front brakes were shot completely. I then proceeded to replace the front brake pads and rotors, and when I went to start the car again I noticed something peculiar.
The car wouldn't start, or even attempt to (didn't here it cranking at all). I know the battery is good, and all the other components in the car turn on when I turn the key to A/C setting. I have the shift lever in what would seem to be Park, but the light on the console shows it is Reverse. It shows the car is in reverse when I have it in Park or Reverse, and shows Neutral when I have it in Neutral.
Before I did the brakes (which I don't believe to be related) it was being a bit fussy about switching gears and going into park, but it was definitely working.
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1614 - Powertrain Control Module (PCM) harness is open or shorted - Faulty Electronic Throttle System (ETS) unit - Faulty Powertrain Control Module (PCM)
1191 - Electronic Throttle System Limp Home Valve On
Car is a 2004 santafe 3.5l automatic. symptoms are phantom revving up to 3-4k in park without me doing anything, sometimes car is hard to start, idle is very erratic/doesn't want to stay running. other times it starts and drives perfectly. from what i can gather this is some sort of malfunction in the electronic throttle system, and from searching people say "inspect ETS system", but i'm not sure what this involves. i unplugged every sensor i can locate in relation to the throttle system, cleaned them with electronic spray cleaner and put some di-electric grease. reset the ecu through battery disconnect, and problem came right back. local shop pulled the codes and said it'll be about 1200 for a new throttle body, and that the dealer has to reset it say what.
is there anything i can do with this sans bringing it to the dealer? i'm not even sure it would make it that far, driving home from the local shop it was in limp mode and i could only drive about 30 mph, and barely made it up hills. probbaly take me three hours to drive to the nearest dealer lol.
i replaced the accelerator pedal sensor about a year ago, and it also threw a code for throttle position sensor about a year ago also.
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So I just bought a 2001 F-150. It has the 4.6 v8 it's a 4x4 automatic. Sometimes i'll go to start it in park but nothing will happen. But if I put it in neutral. It'll start right up.
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Car died at idle on park. Tried to start it back up and was only getting crank. I took it to a local mech and he said my timing belt failed. I paid for the repair and the car still wouldn't start. The shop said the ecu went out. I replaced the cam position sensor and main relay under the dash. Still not getting it to start. I also have a ecu from an 05 accent, would this be plug and play? What else can I do?
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We have a Hyundai Santa Fe 2003 2.7 V6 and sometimes it just won't start, the starter motor turns over fine and the battery is fully charged, and most other times it starts straight away. The engine purrs nicely when it's running.
I suspect it's an electrical fault, perhaps a faulty sensor? (Cam position sensor, crank position sensor, fuel position sensor?) What sensor would cause the car to start and run perfectly some times and not start at all other times?
Immobilser issue? Although I don't have a button on my key so maybe the car doesn't have one.
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Two times in the last month my 2003 Sante Fe would not start - the radio, air conditioning will come on but nothing from the engine - not even a click - no check engine light. Had it towed both times - as soon as it was towed it would start up. It seems to happen in 2 week intervals. Now I realize bc they had it in neutral to get on the truck that is what required to start. It hasn't happened in a week but I know it will again.
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The past couple weeks, my '03 Santa Fe 2.7 has begun to grind a while before starting -especially when weather is hot and has been sitting a while. Once it starts, all is normal. Most of the time it starts right up -no problem. This just happens once in a while. Slowly, it seems to be getting worse. I replaced battery -no change. ...................???
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We recently changed the timing belt & serpentine belt & new alternator. Drove great for 2 days. Then car would stall out when idling, had rough idle. We replaced the Crankshaft position sensor (got one from the dealer) & the electrical connector. The engine cranks but won't start. The only code we're getting is P0335. We've checked all the fuses. Fuel pump starts when turning on the key. We've been a week without a car and trying to come up with something.
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This has happened a few times when the car jerks, check engine light comes on and seemingly goes into limp mode. Cannot engage 4 wd either. I leave the car for while then come back and the engine light is off and the car works normally.
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I am having serious problems with my 2003 Santa Fe 2WD 2.7. First, about two months ago, I would have typical crankshaft position sensor problems whenever it would rain outside and my car would not start or if it did it would eventually stall while driving. Before stalling, the engine light would come on with code P0335 and the engine would shake. I did my best not to drive it during these moments and was always able to get it back home. The problem went away after a couple days of issues until recently.
About a week ago, the P0335 code came back with associated symptoms; however, this time it would not go away. It is worth noting however that I am in Portland Oregon and it is raining non-stop this time of the year. I am not a mechanic, but my neighbor used to be and he carefully guided me through replacing my Crankshaft Position Sensor, Camshaft Position Sensor, and several spark plugs.
After all of this work, my car turns over and starts for maybe a second, where before it would not even fully turn over in my driveway. It immediately dies after the second and then I can not get it to start up again unless I charge the battery for a bit or hook it up to another car and even then its only that initial second of start up. Additionally, there are no longer any codes or check engine light, but there is a "pending p0335" on my neighbors reader. I thought maybe my crankshaft sensor was defective, so I got a second one and it is still the same deal.
It is also worth noting that I do not see any tachometer movement during start up. When we replaced the Crankshaft sensor the old one was destroyed. The wires on it were either burnt up or the plastic coating had decayed away almost completely; thus the reason it was shorting out.
My car has all new belts done through a dealership as of 10 months ago, so I doubt it is related to the timing belt. My neighbor thinks it may be bad fuel, although I always get good fuel and I also doubt this is the case. During key-on you can hear the fuel pump start up and other components all working normally, so it is unlikely related to that.
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I have a 2003 2.4L 5 speed manual Santa Fe. I was parking my vehicle and removed my key as usual and realized that the car was still running. I put it into reverse rolled back and back into 1st to roll forward just to make sure I wasn't dreaming. I ended up pulling the fuel pump fuse and disconnecting the battery to turn it off.
When I replaced the fuse and reconnected the battery I was able to bump start the vehicle without the key in the car and drive it all the way home with no problem. I took apart all the plastic pieces around the Ignition and attempted to remove the cylinder but was unable to locate any sort of small button or pin to push on to remove it. Where is the release button?
What are my options here? Do I replace the cylinder first or get a new key, or is there something else that I should check first before I take it in.
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It seems to have difficulty starting during stop and go like on deliveries. Also has problems after refueling. Is this caused by a faulty purge valve? If so where is it located?
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I've been having trouble diagnosing a loss of throttle at seemingly random times. Sometimes while driving, especially after driving for more than 20 minutes or so, I will experience a hesitation while on the gas pedal as if I have taken my foot off the gas. It makes it impossible to drive until I pull over and unplug my TPS and then I can drive fine in manual mode. Then the next day I can plug my TPS back in, drive around fine for a bit before the hesitation happens again and then I have to unplug the TPS again and drive in manual mode. It doesn't make sense to me why it takes a bit for this hesitation to begin and why unplugging the TPS and driving in manual mode seems to fix the problem.
I've recently replaced my crankshaft position sensor, idle air control valve, purge control valve solenoid and TPS. When I recently placed the TPS, the hesitation problem and another problem I've been having recently, a high idle in park, seemed to be fixed, but then the hesitation problem popped up again. When I unplug the TPS, the hesitation disappears and I can drive fine but the high idle in park problem is back! I'm suspecting some sort of wiring problem to the TPS. I just went on a 100 mile camping trip in manual mode no problem, but I can't be driving around forever with no TPS.
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05 Santa Fe, 2.7 liter, 71,000 miles
Prior to today it had revved high, up to 3000 RPM, once or twice upon start-up but then settled down once I started driving it with no issues at stop lights.
Today, however, no issues upon start-up but within 1 mile it started acting badly. Pulls strong under load, i.e, accelerating. Once cruising speed is achieved and the right foot is relaxed, it loses power, slows and bucks.
At stop lights revs are down to below 800 while in drive and is slow out of the gate. When put in neutral at stop lights, it revs to 3000 then falls to 2000 then back up to 3000. It does not stall.
Replaced the IAC and it ran fine in park for exactly 2 minutes then began revving again.
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My 2001 Hyundai Santa Fe has recently started idling very high when put in park or neutral. While in drive the engine idles above 1K and you need to keep your foot on the brake to keep from moving forward. If you shut down the vehicle while idling high, the car will not start right away. It needs to cool down for 10 -15 minutes before restarting. It will run fine for awhile but will go back to revving up again.
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Earlier this week, noticed that my car was surging on its own; basically, if I came to a stop, I could still feel the engine, like it wanted to just take off. And if I would have taken my foot off the pedal, it would have done just that. Also, I knew the car had gas, but sometimes, when starting the car it would not start at all. I would have to wait about 5 minutes or so and add major gas to it with the pedal and then finally it would engage. And then the last thing was that when I would get to my destination and put it in Park, the RPMs would go up to about 1500 or so, maybe a bit higher and then stay there and go back down to about 1000, without me pressing on the gas pedal at all. So anyway, thought it was the throttle position sensor, so I had my Dad install a new one on the car. It was a pretty easy process and thought that took care of the problem.
The surging part basically stopped, so the new TPS took care of that, but then it still had problems with starting. Took it to a car repair place the next day and they changed out the spark plugs, said that they were causing a misfire in the engine. Also changed ignition wires and a new gasket. So after they were done, drove away and all seemed to be fine, but then went to the dentist and Parked and then the RPMs went up again. Tried to start it immediately afterwards and it wouldn't start again. Tried a few minutes later, added gas with the pedal and it did start. Took it back to the car repair place, they drove it around, inspected everything and everything checked out fine. (Yeah, of course!) Ok, so just thought maybe the repairs were taking a bit to take effect. But later in the day, wouldn't start again.
So next morning, took it to the Hyundai dealer. They looked at everything for about 2 hrs, and said that there was a vacuum hose that was leaking, so they put on a new clamp but everything else checked out okay. Ok, so now it starts fine every time, but today it did that high RPM thing again when I put it into Park. It doesn't do it every time, but the RPM will just go up randomly then go back down and go back to normal. Should I clean the IAC with some type of carb cleaner to get out any carbon deposits? Or could it be a bad MAF sensor? Not sure what the symptoms are of that. Everything else seems to be okay now except for the random high RPMs when in Park and sometimes at startup too.
It's a 2 WD, V6 engine.
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I'm having trouble diagnosing a high RPM in park and neutral on my 2004 Santa FE 4WD 2.7L. Idle's great in drive and reverse. Occasionally when I start the car up it will shoot up to 3000 RPM until I shift into drive or reverse with a heavy thunk. Then it drives fine. When I shift back into park when I'm done driving, it will shoot back up. To avoid this, I just shut the car off in drive and then shift to park.The weird thing is, sometimes it doesn't happen at all. Sometimes it starts right up and shuts down with perfect idle. However, once I give it some throttle in park in these instances, the idle will jump back and forth between 1500 and 2000 and won't die back down to 800 where it should be until I shift into drive or reverse. Not sure what's going on.
I've replaced the idle air control valve, purge valve solenoid, and camshaft position sensor, but to no avail. I also replaced the throttle position sensor a few weeks ago, but that didn't seem to do anything, so I took it back. I'm wondering if I maybe didn't do the correct installation procedure. I still have the old grey TPS for what it's worth. Should I change this? I've also played with the tension in the throttle cable, but I don't really know how to get it exactly within specifications. I definitely removed some slack. I just checked for vacuum leaks using the cigar method with a hose from the PCV valve with the throttle body sealed with saran wrap, but I couldn't find anything. My method was shoddy, and I don't really know what I'm doing, so I wouldn't rule out a vacuum leak by any means.
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Isn't the park gear selector indicators suppose to me illuminated when you turn on the lights, mine aren't. Why?? stick shift between seats on floor.
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