I just replaced the crankshaft angle sensor, camshaft position sensor, starter and both serpentine belts (power steering and alternator, a/c belt). She fired right up, but now it won't sustain idle, she dies unless you keep the rpm at 1000. It almost seems like a fuel issue, but it's just a guess at this point. What to check next? Computer is throwing no codes at all.
View 4 RepliesI recently purchased a used 04 3.5 liter SF. I don't think the AWD system is working. The car has a bit of an odd vibration at 45 mph but I thought this was due to the new all terrain tires on put on the car. There are no check engine lights on in the car and it otherwise drives straight and well.
It just snowed here for the first time in CT this season. I took the santa fe out and tried to start on some hills and it would just spin the front tires and slide backwards. The rear end would not kick in at all. It didnt matter if I had turned traction control on or off. When I look at the snow there are only two front tire marks that spun down into the snow. The rear tire left not skid marks.
There are no strange sounds coming from the rear differential. I know the Santa Fe 3.5 use the Borg and Werner magnetic clutch system and is usually front wheel drive. Is it possible that clutch system is worn out or is it an electrical issue with the front not sending the rear a signal to engage the rear diff?
2003 Sante Fe is suddenly having a problem at stop lights or anytime the car is stopped with brakes. It feels as if the car is going to stall - or back fire. Very evident since it pulls on the brake pedal - just had back brakes replaced.
View 1 RepliesI have a 2003 santa fe I just replaced the cat. in it because it was running so poorly. Now that I've replaced the cat it seems to be worse. The car idles real rough, and cant get it to go over 2000 rpms. No engine light. Had the codes checked and all came out fine. I pulled out the plugs and replaced with new. The car in park ran great until I put it in gear then went back to the same no power, rough idle and cant get more than 2000rpm with out a stall. Stalls but dose not die. Disconnected the pre o2 sensor no change.
View 2 RepliesI have 130K miles on my Santa Fe. I just replaced the timing belt without the water pump being replaced. Picked it up from the mechanic and the check engine light was on and it was idling very rough. Left it there for him to recheck. He said maybe he didn't plug in the Cam Sensor all the way or at all. Next day he called me and said that the cam sensor was bad and he replaced it for free. Picked up the vehicle and the idle was a little rough but got worse on the ride home.
View 1 RepliesWe are at 120K miles. The vehicle runs fine most of the time, but every once in 10-15 starts, it will rough idle or stall after a short warm up time when my wife stops at an intersection. Once she restarts it, it runs fine.
I have changed the spark plugs and wires, the fuel pump, the crankshaft position sensor (was fried) and after consulting this forum, I checked the fuel pressure regulator and the diaphragm is not leaking.
I was able to recreate the rough idle and the CEL on the dash, but my two OBDII readers said there were no codes And the bluetooth reader I am using is indicating that the following tests are not completing: Fuel System, Catalyst, Evaporative System and Oxygen Senors.
The dash CEL resets itself upon restart and does not light until the symptoms return.
After reading the Haynes Repair Manual, I am wondering about the Evaporative Emissions Control (EVAP) system? But I don't want to lead the troubleshooting.
We bought the vehicle at 60K miles and it has been mostly reliable.
I am a new buyer' bought my prius 2008 about a week ago. the is something i cant understand, when a the engine runs at idle speed, the fuel consumption monitor shows 99.9 km/liter ! ! ! and it's also calculated at the average... is it something i should worry about ?
View 6 RepliesAfter its 2.3 liter engine is warmed up, our '87 Ranger has intermittent problems of idle dropping to nearly dying altogether and then overcompensating to recover. Normally, after throttling up to 1500rpm or so, it will idle steady for 15 or 20 seconds then start the process again.
After normal tuneup part replacements (i.e. plugs, wires, cap, rotor and fuel filters=there are 2), I spent over $100 on replacing O2, throttle position and EGR sensors but symptoms still occur. Was advised to consider replacing the Mass Air Flow sensor but that part doesn't exist for the '87 model. Was told the equivalent part is "Idle Air Control Valve" at approximately $80.
Truck is an extended cab, 8' box, 4x4
This truck has begun to not start in cold weather. No click of the solenoid, no starter movement. Dash lights all work, heater, wipers, etc. I put a space heater in the cab, on the drivers side floor board, warmed it up and then it would start.
So looking for some thoughts on my truck.I'm looking at a Ford F350 up grade.What the problem is my 03 250 extra cab has 107,000 on it and all regular maintenance.If I trade it in I'm going to need a 5 gal pail of Vaseline to make a deal.The trade will reduce the sales tax on the new truck. I live in a rural area so selling out right could take a bit.It's paid for.
So your thoughts are welcome.
Thanks Mike
Usually happens after car is warmed up. Rattles only while stopped and transmission still in drive. If I shift into Neutral or Park, rattling stops.
Last time I had a problem similar to this, dealer said it was a heat shield making the noise and they said they removed the heat shield (didn't specify what the heat shield was for.
Now I'm wondering if the heat shield was removed, what else this could be now...planning on taking it in in a few days.
Just bought a 2004 3.5 v6 Santa Fe 140k miles. It's my first 21st century vehicle, the first time I've had one so computerized and all that. I'm really unfamiliar with many of the sounds it makes and what not. This runs nothing like my old Camaro or Dodge, what's normal or not.
She really seems to rev pretty hard in idle, especially when braked at a light while still in drive. Is this normal for a Santa Fe?
Not sure if it did it last summer, but I have noticed that with the AC on when I come to a stop the RPM drops to right around 500 for a second and car has a light shudder (no doubt from the RPM being too low). Since it is only with AC on and for such a short time, is this a sign of something out of whack, or is it normal?
View 1 RepliesI have a 2004 3.5 V6 that is making a rattling noise when the car is in idle and/or about 1rpm. Sometimes, for awhile now , it kind of screams when I first start it...but not all the time. I know this is a loaded question but what do you think it might be? The screaming noises don't happen all the time, like I said, and very rarely happen together but the rattling is happening a lot!
View 1 RepliesMy 2001 Santa Fe is having some major issues with rough idling, and there is a fairly significant oil leak. The check engine light is not on. In the past year it has had a new fuel pump, fuel filter, valve gasket covers, spark plugs, spark plug cables, and transmission.
View 2 RepliesWe just replaced the starter on a 2004 Hyundai Santa fe 3.5. The car now starts, but won't idle. I can keep my foot on the gas and keep it running, but as soon as I let my foot off the gas it dies. We didn't have this problem before replacing the starter. Where to start looking?
View 3 RepliesI just felt that my 2005 Santa fe shakes when idle in front of a traffic light today, later on the check engine light illuminated. Drove to a Monro shop right way and diagnosis using their professional OBD reader, it turns out that the Cylinder 3 and Cylinder 6 are misfiring according to the OBD scan result.
View 9 RepliesWhen I start it up it won't idle untill you give it gas to 2500 rpms and slowly let off the pedal to 1000 rpms to keep it running and itll stay running. When you turn it off you have to redo it all over again. The plugs and wires were replaced. It started doing it couple days after the back 3 plugs and wires were replaced. Just got the fuel pressure regulator replaced and it still wont start up without giving it gas.
View 6 Replies2004 Hyundai Santa Fe 3.5L for about a month has been sputtering/losing power when I come to a stop but keep it in gear. You can see the gauge drop when it sputter. Runs fine if I put it in park at the stop lights which I do because I feel as if may shut off (never has shut off). Replaced the crankshaft sensor and it had no effect. I so notice the same sputter when driving sometimes.
View 8 RepliesAt idle, (600 RPMs, might need to bring it up?) the motor is Real rough, but doesn't stall out, just very "wobbly" Once the car is brought up to the 900-1000 RPM range everything flattens out, and at driving speeds it drives great! Pulled up to 90 mph on the high way, and passed a few cars on some back roads and everything ran great, until I hit idle.
It threw a code for the Cam Position Sensor after I tried to restart the car, and the person who work on this car before me had zip tied the connector into the sensor because he had broken it. Low and behold, you cant buy just the replacement part of the harness.
I tried to get the wires all plugged back in, and the CEL went away, but the idle was still pretty rough. Also, at idle, the oil light flickers just a bit.
My father owns a 2003 Santa Fe GLS with the 2WD 2.7L V6 engine.
Recently it has been having lots of power loss issues. It vibrates/misses when idling, if you put your foot down on the gas pedal, whether under load or not, it sometimes stalls or just sits there. We took it to Hyundai, and they had no error codes. They charged us $150 to tell us nothing is wrong with it, when clearly something is. The car has become downright dangerous to drive because it cannot make it up hills without stalling/losing power.
The most recent thing we had done to it was the wires/spark plugs changed, which I think was at 65k on the odometer?