A few weeks ago my 2003, 2.7 cdx (150,000miles) i noticed what sounded like 2 marbles knocking together, so where the timing belt pulleys are i sprayed some wd40 and the noise went, BUT, since that the noise has got worse and now sounds like a whole bag of marbles jiggling around. really really loud.
View 4 RepliesI have been getting noise that sounds like marbles in the front wheel area. It doesn't happen right away, but after about 20-30 minutes of continuous driving you can hear it. It is louder the faster the car goes, and when you stop it the sound slows down and stops. There is no difference in the way she drives / handles with or without the noise, but I know she hasn't made that noise in the past.
View 8 RepliesThis problem has been with the car since I bought it in 2004 and lived up north in Yellowknife, NT. Whenever the outside temp got down to minus 20 or so the car would not start. Turn the ignition switch on and all the idiot lights are on, turn the key to engage the starter and nothing. I found out by trial and error that if I let the key turn back to the ignition setting ever so slowly it will come to a point where the starter engages. It takes some trial and error but usually that works. However, if it got to minus 30 even that would not work. I would then have to place an electric heater in the driver's foot well for half an hour or so and then the car would start perfect.
Now I've moved south where it does not get that cold however now the problem is happening even at zero degrees. Yesterday was minus 1 or 2 and car would not start without jiggling the ignition switch around. Today plus 11 and starts as it should. To me it sounds like a mechanical problem with the ignition switch however I don't know.
2003 V6 GLS 4-motion....
So.... here's my issue. I have a 2001 supercrew 5.4 and runs great all day long, no problem starting or anything. After I have driven it for a while and turn the AC on it cools off very good then after about a 1/2hr. the truck tries to stall. It almost sounds like a vacuum leak and really bogs down. I can wait about 2hrs and then with the AC off the truck starts and drives like it should. I am steering to the IAC valve but would like to know if this is it.
View 9 RepliesI put a ts6 on my 2001 7.3. I love it shift points are better and truck has a lot more power. But I've noticed when I shift truck shifts into 3 (especially going uphill) I get a really weird turbo sound where it acts like its gasping for air (I have 6637 air filter) and then it shifts kinda rough into third. If I put chip on stock setting it doesn't do either of the things I described. Do I have loose turbo boots somewhere or possible bad turbo bearings?
View 4 RepliesI was replacing my front driver's side marker and had the wheel turned all the way inboard to gain access to the splash guard screws (which have to be removed on a golf to gain access to the marker lamp)
Turned the car off not thinking much about it, but now I can't get the key to turn... the typical jiggling of the wheel won't work because it was locked over (no movement) when I turned the car off. Now after trying to jiggle the wheel and turn the key, the key is now stuck in the ignition.
I'm not sure what gear is associated with the speed, but lately I've noticed that whenever I hit the 30-45mph speeds I'll start to feel a whole bunch of jigglin' going on with the steering wheel and even through the gas pedal. Once I break out of 45+ it goes away and usually only returns when I'm approaching 80mph or so.
This is coming from a 2007 2.0T.
Could it be something as simple as needing the tires rotated/balanced/aligned? I'm hoping thats all it is. Not really that bothersome but it certainly doesn't make for a smooth ride. I could really tell yesterday when I had about half a case of Sam Adams in the back seat and when I hit 40mph man I could hear those bottles bouncing all over the place.
We have a Hyundai Santa Fe 2003 2.7 V6 and sometimes it just won't start, the starter motor turns over fine and the battery is fully charged, and most other times it starts straight away. The engine purrs nicely when it's running.
I suspect it's an electrical fault, perhaps a faulty sensor? (Cam position sensor, crank position sensor, fuel position sensor?) What sensor would cause the car to start and run perfectly some times and not start at all other times?
Immobilser issue? Although I don't have a button on my key so maybe the car doesn't have one.
I have an 03 santa fe 2.7L 170,000 miles (wifes car). Yesterday morning the ac was working fine and by the afternoon was not, only blowing hot air. I figured it was low on freon so bought some to recharge. Checked the low side pressure and it was high( off the gauge. >100). I also noticed clutch on compressor not engaged. I relieved some pressure and was only able to put in about half can of freon. Pressure went up to really high again. Still no clutch engaging. I thought maybe bad compressor, so i tried jumping it straight to battery, still not engaging. So my thoughts are either bad compressor or maybe not enough juice in battery to engage clutch (older battery).
View 5 RepliesTwo times in the last month my 2003 Sante Fe would not start - the radio, air conditioning will come on but nothing from the engine - not even a click - no check engine light. Had it towed both times - as soon as it was towed it would start up. It seems to happen in 2 week intervals. Now I realize bc they had it in neutral to get on the truck that is what required to start. It hasn't happened in a week but I know it will again.
View 3 RepliesI just replaced the crankshaft angle sensor, camshaft position sensor, starter and both serpentine belts (power steering and alternator, a/c belt). She fired right up, but now it won't sustain idle, she dies unless you keep the rpm at 1000. It almost seems like a fuel issue, but it's just a guess at this point. What to check next? Computer is throwing no codes at all.
View 4 RepliesThe past couple weeks, my '03 Santa Fe 2.7 has begun to grind a while before starting -especially when weather is hot and has been sitting a while. Once it starts, all is normal. Most of the time it starts right up -no problem. This just happens once in a while. Slowly, it seems to be getting worse. I replaced battery -no change. ...................???
View 28 RepliesI made a mistake, detached TPS from throttle, thought it was purge valve, then I put it back and today my car won't change gears, I messed something up, never had problems with my transmission. Santa fe 2003 3.5 ....
View 2 RepliesWe recently changed the timing belt & serpentine belt & new alternator. Drove great for 2 days. Then car would stall out when idling, had rough idle. We replaced the Crankshaft position sensor (got one from the dealer) & the electrical connector. The engine cranks but won't start. The only code we're getting is P0335. We've checked all the fuses. Fuel pump starts when turning on the key. We've been a week without a car and trying to come up with something.
View 6 Repliesmy 2003 santa fe speedometer stopped working it started to go up and down then quit...
View 1 Replies2003 santa fe, automatic, front wheel drive, 4 cylinder.
I had problems with the starter not cranking. took it off to the auto parts store and tested bad. I bought a new one there from called a tough one brand name. put it in, and it grinds the flywheel and sounds like it does not engage the flywheel enough. to it back to the auto parts store, and tested it, and it seemed like the gear did not shoot out like it should. they replaced it with a second starter now that tested good before i left the store, put it in and it does the same thing.
1. Can this type of starter not throw the gear far enough into the flywheel ?
2. Can a voltage drop to the starter cause the same thing. Basically is it possible my wires are bad not throwing enough juice to throw the gear all the way forward.
I pulled the starter out and jumped it with the battery and it seemed to work fine, but on the car it just grinds.
2003 3.5 v6 GLS 141k Miles
So, i changed my oil recently, and at the same time changed both valve cover gaskets (front and rear were leaking). From time to time now, the oil light comes on, and goes off, flickers as i drive over bumps, but cant figure out what the problem is. Since the word "Oil" is too short of a term to search for on the forum it was hard to find many posts about it.
When i changed the valve cover gaskets, i went ahead and changed the plugs and wires as well, no Milkshake, no oil on plugs, .90 on the plugs (originals with 137k miles on them, ouch!) i had a small oil leak for a short time after i changed the oil (first time ive changed it on this vehicle) so i did not know how tight the oil filter had to be, but a slight tighten fixed that leak.
The car has the correct filter, using 10-30 (im in the desert) oil is staying right smack dab in the middle of the line, no burned smell from the oil, no milkshake on the dipstick, no oil in the coolant, Im at a loss on what to do next.
I have a tiny leak from the oil pan gasket, but nothing major, plan to replace this with my next oil change.
2003 2.7 ... Started and was running and the brake light and battery flickered and AR died. Now key does nothing. Tried new battery and nothing. If you put key in it chimes and does nothing else. Things that don't need a key work like hazards and horn and parking lights come on but turning the key has no effect. It's seems to not have power in the on or start position of the key. What does this point to? Ignition switch? Short somewhere?
View 7 RepliesI have a 2003 Santa Fe with 187,000KM on the clock. The mechanic noted on it's service that there is a heavy oil leak and suggested it might be the valve cover gaskets or the timing cover. I had the valve cover gaskets replaced by a friend, but unfortunately the car is still leaking oil - presumably from the timing cover. The driveway is covered in oil, the car smells while being driven and needs topping up with oil. I have kept the car going for a while like this, but am uncomfortable with it.
The mechanic suggested there is a possibility it could be a water pump causing the leak and the repair on this would be super expensive, but they can't tell until they're inside.
2012 Golf 2.5 5 speed.
To keep it short: car has been making this noise since day one. Only happens once things have warmed up (20-30 minute drive). Push the clutch in and the noise goes away. This video was taken with the phone placed on the driver side front wheel.
Trans makes a "marbles in a can" noise with clutch out in neutral and when pushed in everything gets quiet. It's driving me nuts and I just have to know if its normal. The dealer told me its "play in the bearings of the trans because they aren't engineered with the tightest tolerances"
Here's the link to the video.....
Two times in the last month my 2003 Sante Fe would not start - the radio, air conditioning would come on but nothing from the engine - not even a click - no check engine light. Had it towed both times - as soon as it was towed it would start up. It seems to happen in 2 week intervals. Now I realize bc they had it in neutral to get on the truck that is what facilitates it start. It hasn't happened in a week but I know it will again.
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