Santa FE SM (2001-06) :: 2003 2.7L Engine P0113 Error Code
Apr 9, 2016
So the check engine sign came up on my car and using the OBD it tells me the error is P0113. After googling the information, it looks like I have an issue with IAT sensor.
I opened the air filter and what I believe what could be the sensor and there was nothing clogging up, so I'm assuming the sensor needs to be replaced
Question is where is the IAT sensor located and how do I dis-assemble it so I can replace it. Is it the piece that is located just before the air filter?
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I have a 2003 Elantra GLS. I am intermittently Check Engine light and error code is P0113 - Air Intake sensor issue. I can't locate where the sensor is. I don't see any wire coming of the tubing that connects the air filter to the engine.
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My 2003 Mk 4 Golf have had a lot of error codes and I have cleared most (O2 sensors, thermostat, and Mass Air Sensor) I now have an error P0113 which is the Intake Air temp Sensor.
So I need to clean the sensor first then maybe replace it, but I can't find the sensor on the intake manifold.
I have looked all through the U-Tube info, but nothing matches my 2003 Golf 2.0L ....
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Just replaced the spark plugs and coils yesterday, today it gives P0113 code, Intake air temperature (IAT) sensor - high input Wiring open circuit/short to positive, ground wire defective, IAT sensor, ECM...
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It seems that i'm most likely going to have to replace the entire plenum .
P1159 here are some details. [URL]..................
I've checked all connecting wires and none appear to be loose. When the issue started to occur and prior to discovering the P1159 code, I also replaced all coils. I replaced the coils because one was arching over to the metal of the engine. I assumed this may be my problem. The issue still persisted obviously. The check engine light never came on so I assumed I wouldn't get a code. I took it over to a friends house with a code reader and that's when I discovered that it was actually giving the P1159 code.
Are there any other model cars that utilize the same engine that I could use the plenum from? Getting this in working condition is going to be the difference in what I can get for it.
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I have a 2003 diesel GS Santa Fe, every now and then when driving the ABS light comes on, not very often but it does, if I switch the ignition off and restart it goes out, I had it on a fault finder computer and it showed code c1274, I think its something to do with the G sensor and the way it breaks (ABS) is it an easy fault to fix? What are the costs involved and will it affect the driving of the car, like I say it rarely comes on and I don't notice any change in how it drives.
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So my mom recently bought a 2003 Elantra (75K miles, auto trans) and within a few days the CEL came on. She took it in to PepBoys and had them hook it to their scanner to get the codes out of it. The only code that came up was P0113 Intake Air Temp (IAT) Sensor high input. I've done a little research on the net but there is a lot of random info for this code out there. Is the IAT a separate sensor or is it combined in with the Mass Air Flow (MAF) sensor(if this car even has a MAF) or combined in with the MAP sensor? I've read on the net that it could be any of these 3, I think it's combined into the MAP.
I've also read that this code could be caused by a bad IAT, bad O2 sensor, an exhaust leak, bad wiring/ground(I checked the wiring/grounds visually and everything seems ok) or many other things. If it's as simple as replacing one of the sensors I can do that myself, I just don't want to go randomly buying things and either it be the wrong part or have it be the right part but not fix the problem. The car runs great, even with the CEL on. Yesterday when she stopped by my house I disconnected the battery for a couple minutes and reconnected it, started the car & no CEL. She drove the car for about 125-150 miles before the light came back on.
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I just joined the forum mainly to care of my dads 2001 Hyundai Santa Fe but also I got a check engine light on my way home from work last night.
From last night I saw that oil was all over the timing belt. Today I inspected it with a Coworker and his OBD II reader.
Error Code was P0455, EVAP - Evaporative Emission Control System Leak Detected (gross leak).
Now the oil leak is stronger since the oil spills is on hood (inside hood). I will make a picture tonight when I get home.
I personal think it's leaking from a tube/ valve on top of the timing belt (picture will show more tonight). Thinking of cleaning the timing belt area, then drive a little around or leave it in idle to spot where the leak is from.
Common issue? I googled around but since P0455 is a common issue (on my 9-2x as well) I couldn't find anything about this I am also limited from my search since I am currently at my work PC incl. strong firewall.
I will see if google let me find a picture...
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Engine light come on and everything is running great, this morning got this error code U0d00. Went to advanced auto and had them run a scan.
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I got an Error Code of U0D00. What this is or means. The scan tool says to refer to your manual but I don't have one.
What the vehicle is doing is that it will work fine for a while then when you stop (in park) the engine will rev really high and back down all by it self for example. It will go up to 3.5 and back to 1 rpm repeated. Then when you start moving the car it will continue to idle higher like you are pressing the gas. During all of this the check engine light will appear?
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My 2003 Mk 4 Golf have had a lot of error codes and I have cleared most (O2 sensors, thermostat, and Mass Air Sensor) I now have an error P0113 which is the Intake Air temp Sensor.
So I need to clean the sensor first then maybe replace it, but I can't find the sensor on the intake manifold.
I have looked all through the U-Tube info, but nothing matches my 2003 Golf 2.0L ...
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I've checked the lines from the Purge Valve on the Passenger side of the Intake Manifold, Check OK
I've Checked that Valve OK
I've Replaced the Canister Close Valve
I've got the Gas Cap tight.
I've removed the rubber bushing holding the CCV to the Evap Canister, hoping to isolate the Filter and point the blame on it, no luck there!!
I'm thinking next is to drop the Tank and check over all the Goodies on top.... as much as I hate the thought of that, the two access holes under the seats, just don't allow access to enough of the tank!
any thing there that I could suspect, I see there's a check valve!
There's also the Fuel Tank Pressure Sensor, which may be at fault.
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Have a 2006 ford escape, at idle the engine will run around 1000 rpm's and then regularly dip down 500 rpm's. Through the intake i can here a distinct "thwap" when the RPM's dip.
Only codes are
P0113 and P2196
Problems accelerating sometimes, Took it too a shop they said bad exhaust valve on the backside of the engine either 1-2-3. They said needed engine work, but said they didn't know where the bad valve was so i don't even know how the made the determination. Vac gauge at idle also indicates bad valve.
However, when i give it even the smallest amount of gas possible the engine smooths out and vac gauge reads totally normal and steady.
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My Hyundai Santa Fe 2006 V6 3.5L shows error code P2100. I cannot for the life of me find the ETS relay. Ive scoured the net but just found vague drawings and pics that didn't show ETS relay. I would also like to know is the ETS relay also known as the fail safe relay or is that a separate relay. Ive seen pics of the fail safe relay but none for the ETS relay. If there is such a relay, exactly where it is located?
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I have a 03 GLI 24v VR6 thats throwing a P0113 code, which is for the intake air temperature sensor. The sensor is part of the MAF sensor, ive tried 2 brand new BOSCH MAF sensors yet the same check engine continues to reoccur. Is there anything else that oculd be triggering it to come on? Is there anyway to bypass/disable it through vagcom?
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I'm getting an error code 2-7 (flashes two times, pauses, then flashes seven times) when my truck starts up. It does this cycle twice then stays on permanently. It has only started doing this since last night when I replaced my factory tape deck with a factory Cd player from a 2002 F-150.
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Mystery issue with my 2001 Accent GSI (5-speed manual, 1.6 L). I'm getting a P0300 error code and the Check Engine light (the light is like an old friend, I miss it when it's not on). This happened four months ago and I replaced the ignition coil - seemed to fix things - but now the light and the error is back with a vengeance. Car stumbles and runs rough. Changed the plugs and plug wires, but no difference.
BTW, there's a small pin hole in the upper part of the gas tank (just enough to give it a gassy smell when the tank is full) but I don't think the hole would be big enough at this stage to cause the check engine light to come on in the same way it does if you leave the gas cap off or loose.
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I was driving along today and my Check Engine light came on. I stopped at the nearest Advance Auto to have them pull the code and it came up with the P0420, Catalyst Efficiency Below Threshold (Bank 1). I asked what could cause this and they mentioned that the fuel that was put in could be causing it. They didn't mention any other possible causes. Any others? I'm thinking it could be the fuel because the last gas station that I stopped at and filled up at is one that I never go to, and maybe just got a bad batch of fuel.
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I am having serious problems with my 2003 Santa Fe 2WD 2.7. First, about two months ago, I would have typical crankshaft position sensor problems whenever it would rain outside and my car would not start or if it did it would eventually stall while driving. Before stalling, the engine light would come on with code P0335 and the engine would shake. I did my best not to drive it during these moments and was always able to get it back home. The problem went away after a couple days of issues until recently.
About a week ago, the P0335 code came back with associated symptoms; however, this time it would not go away. It is worth noting however that I am in Portland Oregon and it is raining non-stop this time of the year. I am not a mechanic, but my neighbor used to be and he carefully guided me through replacing my Crankshaft Position Sensor, Camshaft Position Sensor, and several spark plugs.
After all of this work, my car turns over and starts for maybe a second, where before it would not even fully turn over in my driveway. It immediately dies after the second and then I can not get it to start up again unless I charge the battery for a bit or hook it up to another car and even then its only that initial second of start up. Additionally, there are no longer any codes or check engine light, but there is a "pending p0335" on my neighbors reader. I thought maybe my crankshaft sensor was defective, so I got a second one and it is still the same deal.
It is also worth noting that I do not see any tachometer movement during start up. When we replaced the Crankshaft sensor the old one was destroyed. The wires on it were either burnt up or the plastic coating had decayed away almost completely; thus the reason it was shorting out.
My car has all new belts done through a dealership as of 10 months ago, so I doubt it is related to the timing belt. My neighbor thinks it may be bad fuel, although I always get good fuel and I also doubt this is the case. During key-on you can hear the fuel pump start up and other components all working normally, so it is unlikely related to that.
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I have an 2004 Santa Fe and im having some Mass Air Flow Sensor problems but I dont know what's wrong. My engine light came on for the second time after awhile. And I got it checked for the code and of course it was my sensor again. The first time I just giggled it around and the light went off. I did the same thing today with giggling it again went off. So I feel like it might be a loose connection but I really hope it isn't failing because im pretty sure that's uber expensive to fix.
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Check engine light came on and stayed on today. Engine lost almost all power so I guess I was in "limp home mode". CEL ODB-II code was P2138 according to AutoZone.
Accelerator position sensor malfunction
Probable causes:
1. Open or short circuit condition
2. Poor electrical connection
3. Failed APS.
After turning off the vehicle, it seems fine at least in town but the check engine light is still on. This is the first "problem" with the vehicle and it's at about 98K.
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