Santa FE SM (2001-06) :: 2002 - Leak At The Bottom Of The Line Coming Out Of Reservoir
Dec 11, 2007
Notice a leak at the bottom of the Line coming out of the reservoir and turning under at the bottom of the radiator... Not sure at this point whether this is the suction return or supply , probably return, from the looks of the spring clamps used.
It appears that some steel line is used to make a 2 ft or so loop under the radiator before it goes back to the rack.... Cooling??
This line app. 3/8 " in diamater is supported by some rubber isolators, and no doubt there is some rust which has formed in there where the line passes through the rubber, small pinhole maybe??
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I've just (a couple of weeks ago) purchased an 03 Santa Fe. I noticed some trans fluid on my driveway a week later, and not a small amount. I took the lower cover off of the engine, and the leak is coming from the transmission oil cooler area. I had hopes that it would be something fairly straightforward to repair, so I got a replacement oil cooler and some spare hose, just in case it was just a hose. After getting the front bumper off, I found that the bottom of the oil cooler is clean and dry-- not the issue. It looks as though the leak is coming from what they're calling the Trans oil cooler "tube assembly", as illustrated on the Hyundai Parts Department trans cooler page as item number 5, part number 2547126011. Am I correct in assuming that I'm going to have to remove the entire radiator to get to this thing to replace it? It appears to be fixed in place, but I can't see any hardware to remove it.
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I have a 2002 v6 petrol Santa Fe which developed a rather loud knocking from the bottom end over the weekend.
To cut a long storey short I have had the best use from this car for a long time and she has served me well so rather than patching her up I have decided to replace her with something new and less guzzley :-)
The reason I have got in touch is because I'm not sure whether to break her or sell as is. I have the space and room to break the car up but understand it will take an age to sell the parts and don't know if this is more likely to raise more cash than just selling the car as is with the fault.
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I was just curious is there a fuel line replacement that's pre-molded? Or do I need to get a roll of a certain diameter line and mold it my self? It's leaking right under the drivers door and it used to be pretty small but has gotten bigger. I can take a picture of the location if needed?
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2005 Santa Fe (88K, 2.7 V6).
For a month or two, after the car got warmed up, I'd hear a whine/hum noise when I slowed to turn or reduced speed. The noise was much more noticeable when the car had been running at least 15-20 minutes, but I did occasionally hear it when the car was somewhat cool still. Never had a problem steering during this time, even with the noise... but I eventually figured out that slowing down and/or turning brought it on. So I took it to a mechanic.
They showed me bubbles coming from the power steering reservoir, and said I needed a new PS pump and pressure hose, along with a flush/new fluid. I paid for all of that.
Next day: The car would become hard to turn when I made a tight turn into a parking spot... again, not a constant thing, but only when turning to park and going slow. The noise APPEARED to be gone, but this new issue worried me so I took it back. They put a different pump on (no charge), thinking the other may have been defective.
Next Day: I hear the whine again on my way home from work. When I get home, I park, leave it running, and pop the hood. There's a fast drip bubbling from beneath the reservoir cap and running down to the pavement. First thing the next morning I return to mechanic. He says the first two pumps were the same brand and both "remanufactured" so he switches to a different brand -- this one brand new, not "remanufactured" -- and installs that one.
A half hour later, I get home. Hearing that same whine/hum, I lift the hood. Fluid is pouring out from beneath the cap in a steady, unbroken stream (not a drip, but a stream). So I took it back to the mechanic (who to his credit, has charged me nothing since the initial new pump installation). What could cause the power steering fluid to gush out from the reservoir cap when the car gets hot? I have a brand new pump and pressure hose. What could cause this condition..
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I am currently on the highway in a remote area and have an oil leak at bottom of engine. There is a small hole where two housings come together, see photo.
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I was teaching my kid how to drive in a parking lot and noticed white smoke coming from the front when parked. There seems to be a leak on the top side of the radiator, where the plastic top connects to the aluminum body. I also noticed that radiator fan does not come up at all. Outside temp was around 40F but I would think it should have come on when driving at 5-15 mph in a parking lot for 1+ hours. Temp gauge is on the left side of the middle indicator so technically the engine is not overheated, unless the temp probe is bad. What's the best way to troubleshoot this? I have a 2005 Santa Fe 3.5L GLS FWD.
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I have a relatively decent standard of DIY mechanics, but I have never worked on a Hyundai before.
I have a leak coming down the drivers side rear shock absorber (the bit that bolts onto the swing arm) this has obviously resulted the the rear of the car riding low, but, is there something I can take apart and replace or do you have to replace the whole thing.
it seems likely that it could just be a seal broken somewhere.
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I was driving my 2008 Santa Fe last week (before I went on vacation) and noticed the the A/C wasn't coming through quite a cool as usual (almost felt like the vent was on w/ no AC). Then after about 10 minutes of driving I noticed the thermostat on the car get to about the 3/4 line pretty close to the red lines.
Luckily I was home so turned the car off and popped open the hood. I noticed the reservoir tank was empty and there was some coolant that dripped down on the fans & a small pool of coolant on the engine block right under where the oil is poured. (nothing has been dripping under the car)
I added a little coolant to the reservoir tank and the next time I turned it on and let it run for ~10 minutes, it was the same thing.
Anyway, I came back from vacation and opened the hood to try and identify exactly where the leak was, and ran the car for ~30 minutes, with A/C on full blast and the car didn't overheat or leak anywhere. Coolant tank was still full from when I filled it the first time.
What could have caused the leak/overheating in the first place?
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I was surprised by a leak and identified where the water was coming from, the bottom of my vehicle. It's from a gasket or seal on the front of the pan near the flywheel. 1994 Ford Explorer 4X4.
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Trying to get the a/c working on the EX. Tried to pull a vacuum and heard a leak coming from near the firewall. After a closer look I could see the larger line was rubbing against the rear head stud. That line is a hard to remove and replace. So if you have a studded 6.0, take time to look at your lines to make sure they have proper clearance.
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I have 2002 1.8T Wagon GLS with a manual climatic (with 3 big dial buttons). The weather is now getting cold and yesterday I started to realize there is no air coming from the bottom vents (both passenger and driver side) when the air flow dial button is set to bottom vents. All other positions (windshield and front vents) are all working. The air flow dial button appears to be mechanically controlled.
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My 2001 Civic sedan coolant reservoir was full after a long drive - with coolant blown out from the top. I am trying to isolate the problem.
1) I Did not notice if temperature gauge rose above the mid-point on the gauge.
2) I Discovered issue after 120+ drive on a hot day (90 degrees plus).
3) The car has almost 230,000 miles.
4) About 1,500 miles prior to this incident I removed my drive belt and replaced it with the shorter drive belt to circumvent the A/C compressor as it or the compressor clutch crapped out on me.
5) The morning after this occurred the coolant reservoir was still ful.
6) I removed the radiator cap and ran the engine for about 15-20 minutes. During this time I noticed the coolant in the radiator begin to rise into the fill neck area of the radiator - no bubbles or movement other than up into the neck area. The top hose was warm and then got hot but it seemed the bottom hose remained cold. I then throttled the gas briefly and nothing happened to include the radiator remaining off. The temperature gauge read just below the mi-point. I then throttled up to about 3,000 RPMs and coolant blew out of the radiator – about 1/2 to 1 liter of coolant came out. At that point, I shut everything down, installed the radiator cap, and cleaned up the coolant. I noticed the bottom hose appeared to now be much warmer than before the coolant blew out. The next morning the coolant reservoir was empty.
7) Today, about one week later, I applied power at both fans and both worked. I checked the relays and both registered no continuity across terminals 1 and 2 - as they should. I checked the radiator fan switch for continuity when cold and there was NO continuity across the contacts - as it should. I ran the engine for about 20 minutes with the radiator cap installed. The temperature reading rose to just below midpoint (normal) and stayed there. Radiator fan had not come on yet. I throttled up and nothing. Idled for several minutes and the temperature gauge rose to about ¾ of the way to “H.” I throttled the engine to look for smoke from the tailpipe – there was none (there is no history of any kind of smoke coming from the exhaust of my civic). I throttled up again, the temperature gauge dropped quickly below the mid-point, and the radiator fan came on for the first time. After the fan kicked off the temperature gauge again rose to ¾. I hit the gas, the temperature gauge dropped quickly to below mid-point, and then the fan came on again.
I was thinking this could be a blown head gasket but now I am questioning my initial thoughts. As of right now there is no coolant in the reservoir. One would think if the head gasket was blown that I would continue to get fluid in the reservoir even with the lost ~1 liter from my earlier test. I checked my engine oil dipstick and it looks clean - just oil. Nothing unusual visible when oil fill cap removed. Wy my coolant reservoir would have filled, blown over, not empty when cooled, only to empty out by the next morning after blowing 1/2 to 1 liter. This has been a loyal car (other than the recent loss of A/C) and I would like to see if I can get 250,000+ miles out of her with no serious maintenance.
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I have bubbles in the ps reservoir, I changed the Power steering pump, the ps hose, the ps fluid... I dont know what else to do. when the power steering become hot, it begin to do a noise and to do bubbles in the reservoir. The car is a Hyundai santa fe 2003 v6 2.7l
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So I go into my garage last night and see a puddle under the rear of my car. Looks like H20 so I look under and the leak appears to be coming from the right muffler along the seam line. No dents so doesn't appear something hit it unless of course when my wife took it the other day she ran over a curb or something! I rush over to the dealer and head tech says looks like the muffler seam looks to be pulling apart? He says condensation may have eroded metal and caused seam to go.18k miles 15 months old I cannot imagine this happening. Any ways got a NX F-sport as a loaner - already miss the LS! I guess this may take some time as he said they have to get Lexus involved. I will just pack the miles on the NX!
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Strange problem. I've cleaned the reservoir as best I could but it continues to back up. I can find replacement parts everywhere for any amount of money. However, the reservoir is labeled 2001 to 2006. Mine is 2006 and I believe it's a GLS (don't know for sure). OK so far, however when I put my Santa Fe in and note that it has a 3.5 V6, all of them say that it is not compatible with this car! It looks like the one that is in there, but nowhere can I find a reservoir for the 3.5! Am I missing something really silly and stupid?
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The steering fluid pump reservoir has a leak ive been told by my trusted mechanic. The first bout of cold below freezing weather, the steering fluid drains out and I have to refill it. After refilling, I'll have to fill it again in a few days sometimes lasts a few weeks. Might not have the car for much longer. How to cope with this rather than get a (expensive I was told) new steering pump.
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My daughter asked me to look at & listen to a horrible grinding noise coming from the upper right area of her Santa Fe's rear hatch. There was a plastic grinding noise coming from THIS:
It's the lock actuator for the rear hatch.
Sometimes it works.
Sometimes it doesn't.
Sometimes it makes that horrible plastic grinding noise.
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Had a small leak on show up in my transmission cooler line at the radiator connection. After replacing the o-ring, which was pinched, I had lost some fluid up to about 3-4 oz. I had stopped by the local VW dealer and picked up a liter of ATF fluid and noticed the colors of the fluid differed from what drained out from the cooler line. Fluid that drained out was a cloudy darker green/grey and the new ATF fluid had a clear yellowish tint. Is this vehicle equipped with a closed loop cooling system or does it use the actual ATF fluid as the cooling medium?
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So a few days ago, I decided to check the anti-freeze for adequacy. It was just replaced with the timing belt / water pump job; but I'm a pilot, and I'm accustomed to checking things for myself. Lo and behold, the hydrometer didn't even register. I thought it was stuck, but then I noticed the oily film, and got scared. And then as I investigated further, I got puzzled.
The car had been driven maybe 500 miles since the timing belt / water pump job, had not overheated, and had not lost any coolant. The level in the radiator was up to the cap. Also, there was no oil at all in the radiator (at least that I could detect), and the concentration tested fine. But there was oil in the reservoir -- but it didn't look like crankcase oil. It was clear -- like water -- and felt a bit thinner than crankcase oil. Also, the outlet at the bottom of the reservoir was clogged.
There also was some sealant in the reservoir (it looked like the BarsLeak tablets), but none that I could detect in the radiator. That in itself doesn't bother me because a lot of people (including me) routinely toss a few tablets in the coolant -- Saturn used to do it from the factory -- but it does suggest at least the possibility of a previous coolant leak that someone treated with BarsLeak.
At the moment, there's no evidence of coolant loss, no water in the exhaust, no water in the oil, and no oil in the radiator. I haven't done a compression test. I did change the plugs, and there were no obvious coolant deposits on them. They were carbon-fouled, but considering that the PCV valve was clogged and the mileage on the plugs, that didn't surprise me.
So what I'm postulating is that the previous owner's son (who was the primary driver of the car) mistakenly poured some sort of engine oil additive, power steering additive, or something else intended for use elsewhere, into the reservoir; and the mechanic who did the timing belt and water pump didn't notice it (which also kind of bothers me).
The fact that the power steering pump had a bit of chatter would tend to reinforce that hypothesis. I've been doing a gradual replacement of the power steering fluid, which seems to have quieted things down. It was black as tar when I started, so I probably should completely replace it. I may do that this coming weekend. In any case, I removed, cleaned, and unclogged the coolant reservoir, replaced it, refilled it, and everything seems fine. It's kind of baffling, though.
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I have a 2006 3.5L Sante Fe. and i noticed there were coolant drips under the car and that my coolant reservoir was empty. In the engine bay below what i assume is the water pump i noticed the coolant pooling (See Photos). I am not sure if the seal is bad where the top radiator house connects to the water pump (circled in red, or if the thin metal line (circled in Blue) sitting in the coolant pool would have anything to do with it, since it seems to trace back to the radiator.
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