Santa FE SM (2001-06) :: 2002 - Slight Hesitation After About 15 - 20 Minutes Of Drive
May 23, 2012
I have an '02 Santa Fe GLS V6 2WD. I am having a strange problem and do not know what it could be. When car is cold, it starts up and runs with no problems. After about 15-20 mins, there is a slight hesitation or studder. RPM's drop slightly and shutters. When i accel, engine studders, then runs fine. This only happens when at idle in drive. At highway speeds there is no problem. What can this be?
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Last night i noticed a slight hesitation during acceleration. Today i had driven around in town for awhile and did not notice any hesitation. When i got onto the interstate I pushed down the peddle to pass someone and it did nothing, I let off the gas and back on and the car bucked pretty bad. All the way home it has issues when I pressed on the gas but did fine at cruising speed. I would think a fuel filter would have been a slow progression issue so I am thinking maybe it is a sensor. I sprayed carb cleaner around vacuum hoses today and did not notice any surge so I think I eliminated a vacuum issue.
2004 Santa Fe 2.7 149k
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I've been having some trouble with engine hesitation after driving for 15-20 minutes and poor MPG on my 2004 Hyundai Santa Fe 2.7L. I've been slowly running through some tests as I learn how to diagnose car troubles. I just ran a voltage test on my 4 O2 sensors using a bluetooth scan tool and the Torque Pro app. I ran the tests at idle after warming up the engine. To me, the upstream sensors seem fine but downstream sensors are not behaving like they should. Aren't the downstream sensors supposed to be relatively flat around .45 volts while the upstream sensors fluctuate steadily between .1 and .9?
B1S1:
B1S2:
B2S1:
B2S2:
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I am having a slight hesitation problem on my 2002 gls. When the car is cold and I am shifting with low rpm there is a slight hesitation untill higher rpms then it seems to clear. I wouldn't say a "stutter" or enough to "buck" the car but definitely noticeable. The strange thing is when the car gets up to temp it seems to stop. Almost like a carb on an older engine.
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I own a 2004 Santa Fe 3.5L AWD and recently when ever I drive at a highway speed 65mph or greater the ABS and Traction lights come on as well as the AWD indicator which lights up green and blinks. When this happens I feel a slight shudder in the drive line and I no longer have AWD, ABS or Traction control functioning. This condition continues until I stop and turn off and re-start the truck at which time everything is back to normal. It does not happen around town and I have had my local garage check for stored codes in the computer and there are none listed. We have also inspected the drive line on a lift and everything looks dry and fine. Other than that this truck runs and drives great.
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I bought a 2002 santa fe last week. it was a non runner. the previous owner said he took it to the garage for a crank oil seal leak. when he went to collect the car they had removed the head saying oil was leaking from the gasket. he towed it away and i bought it. i have refitted the head. the engine runs smooth at idle. when i first start up in the morning there is a loud rattle for a second or so. it sounds like a diesel starting up. when i am driving it hesitates and seems to lose power. also at a certain position on the accelerator pedal this rattle is there. it goes away when i accelerate more.
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2002 hyundai santa fe GL2 4 Cyl Automatic ... I noticed that there is a super heavy motorcycle-ish loud noise from my engine when I put it in drive. When it's idle or in reverse or neutral the problem does not occur. but then when I switch it to drive, uber loud noise...which gets louder when I step on the gas.
What has been done so far - replaced spark plugs, ignition coils and plug wires so far...also changed the oil, no fix.
No check engine light at all.....however the battery did die due to someone leaving a light on for days So I am unable to get any code readings.
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Have an 02 Auto with the 2.7, 4wheel drive, and it doesn't shift into 5th gear. Can go through the 4 gears with the manual shift, but when just in drive, only shifts up to 4th. At 65mph, RPM's over 2500.
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I've noticed that on cold starts after work, or in the mornings in start up my Santa fe's really rough at idle.. I'd like to say even slight hesitation when I take off.. I notice a drop in RPM and lately harder shifts out of first..
My sf is the 3.5 AWD w/ nav it's a month old with 2900 Kms on it..
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248K miles. At hwy speeds, acceleration is great. But when "gas" is slightly relaxed without moving foot (e.g. downhill or level not acceleration) experience slight hesitation. Happens in and out of cruise control. What might cause this? Fuel pump?
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I purchased a 2000 F250 7.3 4x4 (auto transmission) about 8 months ago. I've noticed recently that when I accelerate there is a slight hesitation like there is slack in the drive line. This does not happen when the truck is moving and I accelerate. There is not audible clunk and the hesitation is not in the motor.
I checked the u-joints and they all feel tight. There is a little slack in transfer case that allows me to turn the drive line slightly back and forth. Is this normal? Should I be planning on a transmission or transfer case rebuild soon?
Update: I was researching the leaf spring isolator pads (mine are warn out or missing) and it sounds like these can cause something similar to what I am experiencing. I am planning on pulling a 28' travel trailer from Colorado to Wisconsin next month and would like to avoid any issues if possible...... Obviously, I know ....
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I have a 2002 1.8 Turbo VW GTI. Lately I've noticed that the car would hesitate slightly when slowing down. It would go up to at least 5000 RPM's or higher before it shifted over. The hesitation when slowing down and accelerating tend to happen when I drive. What to do, I went to the vw company they said if i want to change the transmission would cost me ~6k$ and f*ck me twice if if am paying 6k on a 2002 car.
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It work... sometimes....
Last week, first time we use the AC this year (was over 30 celcius)... blowing hot air only, even after 15min drive... tried to turn the AC off/on.. switch to outside/inside, manual/auto etc..... no changes...
Back at home, remove the fuse cover to check both fuses, both OK, all in the dash about the AC is working but still blowing only hot air (restarted the car couple of times)...........
1 week later (today).. I take it ... (24 Celsius outside)... work #1.. i made some stop (turning the car off) and it worked all the morning.. i try to switch On/off........ work every time......
After lunch i need to go get my son, so i try it again (3-4 hours between the 2)... do not work anymore.. only hot air.. try everything again... even turning the car off with AC ON (or OFF) and restart... samething!... thats really weird....
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I have a 2007 Santa Fe GLS AWD that has a rear driver side tire problem. It starts after roughly 10 minutes of driving as a slight squeal. It starts at around 20mph and will quit when I reach 40mph. The longer I drive, the louder it gets to a point where it is almost constant between 20-40mph. It stops when I apply the brakes or when I turn slightly to the left or right. Also, if I stop and turn the car off it takes 5-10 minutes for the squealing to start again. There is a smell of hot metal and sweet smell coming from the area.
I had the rear brakes and rotors replaced 12,000 miles ago, and them checked at my local Hyundai dealer when I first noticed the squeal and the mechanic said the brakes and rotors in the rear did not need replacing. What it could be?
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2003 Hyundai GLS
Starts fine, loud motorboat like noise ... then car hesitates when put in any gear for a few seconds before moving ... then drives fine. Slight shutter at low speeds 30 and under....hit the expressway and its all good. Is that the fuel pump, a relay, what? It has a brand new radiator, gasket, thermostat and cover...so its not the cooling system.
Also...the check engine light is on, the pcm code says its only issue is the cat con...I don't think this issue is related cuz it was already on when the radiator killed in the middle of the highway....the noise is new. The hesitating isn't....that's been going on since before the check engine light came on....but its getting worse.
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I have a leak somewhere in my car. There are no spots left from my parking stall, or any visible wet spots under the hood, but my car continuously looses fluid somewhere. It disappears fast enough that in a 10 minute drive it can go from full to the coolant light and alarm going off on the dash.
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I have a 2010 with about 166k miles. I am getting a slight hesitation at slight acceleration or constant speed. It does not matter if it's on highway or freeway speeds. Now I am not sure if this in junction with me changing the PCV valve, cleaning the EGR pipe, or cleaning the TB for carbon recently. It started happening a week after it though.
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It'll do okay when I am not flooring it, but when I do floor it there's a pretty noticeable lag and then VROM it'll take off like a bullet... This car has a manually operated throttle control, are there any adjustments I can make to make the truck more responsive? 2.4L 4Cyl....
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2003 Santa Fe GLS 3.5l with 170k.
Been working OK up until about 2 months ago when I would notice a brief hesitation every once in a great while when driving. It became hard to start - would crank well but just took about 5 seconds to finally start. Recently, I was on the highway and it jerked at about 65mph but did not cut off. Once when I was at a traffic light, it shut off completely but started right back up again. I was convinced that it was a crank or cam position sensor as I had dealt with a similar issue with another car years ago. It also seems to start right away when the temps are in the single digits - when they get higher than 25 or so, hard to start again.
I bought a new crankshaft position sensor because all the posts I've read point to that being the problem given the symptoms. I haven't installed it yet - still looking into this and wondering where it is! I'm thinking that it might be more fuel-related now though because after I started my car after work yesterday (it went all day without being started) it was hard to start but this time it was if I hadn't started it in 3 weeks. It kind of sputtered until I gave it the gas enough where it would settle out. Fuel pressure regulator? I hadn't thought it would be fuel-related (pump, pressure regulator) because 99% of the time, the car works just fine.
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I have an '02 Escape, XLT V6 with 4WD. Recently (within the last month) we had to have the engine replaced. They found that three of the coil packs were cracked on the old engine. They put the new engine in, hooked it all up, and it ran like a dream. The new engine came off another Escape and has about 122K miles (the old one had 175K). Today, I got gas and hit the highway to visit family Up North for the holiday weekend. I noticed about an hour into my drive that the car had a slight chugging feel, nothing extreme but it felt like small catch. I got to my mom's house, and then drove with my sister to the gas station and she noticed it too, it seems to have gotten more pronounced. I noticed again really bad on the way back from a friend's tonight. It seems to 'chug' when pushing on the gas or in Cruise, but not when its just coasting. What could it be?
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I've read a lot on hear but can't seem to find what I need. I just replaced one of the battery cells. Now when I drive for about 20 min the engine idles high and the energy read out stops charging the hybrid battery. The AC recirculation turns off on its own. I have a few codes. the O2 sensor and cat code. The p3006. I had one cell that i didn't replace that was reading 6.9 volts. I thought that it would charge back up on its own. We went of vacation for 2 weeks and the car didn't get driven. I found out that's not good for an older prius.
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