Santa FE SM (2001-06) :: 2002 Shutdown When Driving - Code P0340
May 2, 2012
So my wife was driving our 2002 santa fe 2.7L and it shutdown. I went with the scanner and saw one code, P0340. I towed it home, changed the Crank Position sensor, which really sucked. I put it all back together and still no start. Same code.
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2002 Santa Fe 2.4L Automatic. Driving on the freeway when it lost power. Couldn't go over 65 even with the accelerator all the way down, even slower on uphill climbs. The engine wouldn't rev higher than around 3000rpms.
I figured it sounded like a loss of power due to weak fuel pump. I replaced it as well as the fuel filter, and verified it was pumping. Put the car together, and still the same loss of power. Drove home and parked it, but next morning it won't run at all. It cranks all day long but doesn't fire.
So far, I have made the following repairs and checks:
-Verified catalytic converter was clear and not plugged
-Verified fuel pressure
-Checked spark plugs - all are good and gaped properly
-Replaced crank position sensor (With the code, I thought this would solve it)
-Verified timing belt and cam belt in time - both have also been changed recently
-Checked all relays and fuses
-Battery and alternator are good - both are new
I still have a crank no start issue, and I'm going crazy taking things apart and putting them back together only to have this car not fire.
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I have a 2005 crdi diesel santa fe that i have a strange problem with it starts up first time no problem in the mornings and can drive all day long. However if i switch it off and leave it sit for about a half hour no way will it start again until it cools off. It will start though with a push start instantly!
I got only one fault code P0340 cam shaft sensor fault, i replaces sensor and made no difference. Is this a common fault???
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I recently took my car to the Hyundai dealer who told me that my engine light was from a bad cam sensor (Fault Code = P0340). I bought the sensor from the Hyundai parts dealer and replaced it myself. After having the code erased, the check engine light comes back on (with the same code) when I turn the car off and turn it back on, after driving it for a while (30 minutes or more).
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02 Santa Fe 2.4L/ automatic/2 WD. I replaced the fuel filter (only) and have had a nightmare ever since. It takes multiple tries to start, running a little longer each time. When it will finally stay running, only the most delicate of throttle feathering will allow any RPM's to be built up. Any attempt to do otherwise will result is sputtering, bucking and other unhealthy behaviors until the throttle is closed. It also gives off the smell of running rich.
I borrowed a scan tool and got P0136 and P0141, which I expect since the O2 sensor wiring was cut in two by the heat shield shortly after my daughter bout the vehicle. It also is giving me the P0340 Camshaft Position Sensor Circuit code. I had replaced the CMPS and its connector a couple of month ago. I replaced the sensor again to no avail. I have checked the Orange/Black wire from the connector to the ECM and it reads 0 ohms. I get battery voltage at the connector on the Blue supply wire but only get 1.86 to 2.0V when I check the signal with the engine running.
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My CEL is on and according to Auto Zones code checker read a P0340 on my 2002 KIA Sedona with 160400 miles. It said Camshaft position sensor A circuit malfunction 1 or single sensor.
So what should I do now? Van is running as smooth as ever so not sure what I should do.
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I recently acquired my dad's old truck. Its a 2002 Explorer EB 4.6L 4x4. Great truck, family owned since new. Recently it has had the service engine soon like pop up and its throwing code P0340. The mysterious cam sensor code.
May I ad that the sensor itself is new, OEM ford. I have just replaced the alternator (which is usually a common problem for this code), and still no luck. The car starts up, still runs great, and has had no hesitation or stalling.
My mechanic friend checked it out and said that it is getting some voltage, but not as much as it should? the wiring to the PCM looked good too. The Ohms on the CMP checked out good too.
I really hope its not the PCM on this car. I may have to just take it into the ford dealer to see if they can diagnose the car. I do work as a tech at a small indy shop, but currently dont have the time since i'm trying to finish my schooling this year.
I just want my car to be in tip-top shape...
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Left my 2002 SF 2.4 with someone to replace clutch. Calls me after the job to say it doesn't run!
Codes P0100 and P0340.
Maf is new. I had a Cam sensor in stock. Nil fix.
Have changed out recently;
Fuel Pump
Coil packs
CPS
MAF
and just now, the Cam sensor.
It starts right up then shuts off, does not slowly sputter and die.
I asked him to go over the wires and connectors. He could have stressed a cable while pulling the tranny. I do have the old MAF that I could try, but doubtful it would fail at the same time as a clutch job. Now wishing I had done the clutch myself!
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I have a 2002 f150 4.2 code p0340, ran rough, replaced cam sensor. drove after replacing and it runs fine now, code and service engine light comes on after restarting. from what i have read could this be a wiring problem?
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I have a 2005 hyandai elantra with 176k miles. ck eng light came on with P0340 cam shaft positioning sensor. I replaced it and cleared code and ck eng light came back with same code. So as last resort took it to dealership who replaced the wire from sensor to ecu and told me i had a bad ecu. I replaced it with a used one from a semi-reputable salvage yard (i mean i have used them several times with no issues). The code came back almost instantly. Symptoms of the car starts good cold within a few minutes it is very slow to accelerate and i have noticed a severe loss of MPG. I have also checked timing because i changed the belt in this process.
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So I go on vacation, and as we're driving down, the CEL comes on with p1166 pd1166. Get home the code still pops up. A month later small oil leak is detected. Clean the throttle body intake, fuel and exhaust systems. Oil leak gets worse, turns out the crank shaft seal has failed. Shop cleans out the oil, and replaces the timing belt. Clears the code and the CEL stays off for 5 days. I clear the code and Its good for days. Get it up over 50 and the CEL pops on. So today go for a trip mostly highway driving. I go over 125 miles with out the CEL coming on. Check it and the reader reports pd1166. Clear it. Driving back 4 miles and the CEL comes on. 2 codes p1166 and pd1166.
What are the time parameters for logging a pd1166 and the p1166. No engine issues, no performance issues. Gas mileage is 17-19mpg.
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Looking for a picture/location etc of where the crank position sensor is in the engine compartment? It seems to be a common issue where the engine stalls during driving and you pull over and are able to restart the vehicle and go on about your business.
My 02 has over 160k in miles and so am believing this part is going out according to what I've read here. My problem before was somehow the 2wire plug to the alternator worked it's way off and got that taken care of and so now while my wife is driving, it'll occasionally stall. Did a load test on the battery and it's good. Didn't check the charging system but not sure it needs to be tested.
By the way, have ran the diagnostics with the actron pocket obdII and no error codes came up and all looked good scrolling through everything.
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My brother and father just finished with all of the small issues after throwing in both a "new" engine into the vehicle and a transmission..both have around 80K miles (chassis has around 180K). There were some issues with codes after both were installed, but then everything was diagnosed and fixed, vehicles codes were gone and vehicle was able to be registered, afterall.
Anyways, now the car threw a P0715 code and has issues with shifting. It appears that the Santa Fe is stuck in a single gear (appears to be a higher gear). The car won't shift properly, especially noticed at higher speeds in a main road. Using tiptronic does not seem to make a difference. After the car sits and is taken around the neighborhood, it seems to drive fine, until it is taken out into a main road...I'm guessing once it heats up?
So, what should be looked into? A sensor? Is it maybe because this "new" used trans was swapped in and all of the trans fluid was replaced with new fluid? What could the issue be? I guesss the car's been a headache but they're trying to get it finished to avoid any further codes/issues.
02' Santa Fe 2.7 FWD
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My 2002 v6 is throwing a cel that reads p0018. What the code description is? the general ob2 scanner mentions a coolant sensor issue but I did some research and i saw where it is a timing sensor for the newer hyundais.
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I have a 2002 Santa Fe 4 cyl that is giving me a problem that I could use some advice on tracking down & fixing . First & most important is a code P0302 # 2 Cyl misfire. How to check the ignition coil pack , injector ,& wire for this cylinder in home garage with normal tools & meter . Is there a you tube displaying how to do this step by step ?
The other problem which I don't have the code for at this time is that some part of the exhaust is not getting warm enough & this also put's the check engine light on . Will get back on this one when I solve the main problem Misfire.
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Well i was driving the other night home and all of the sudden my 02 2.7 Awd Santa Fe dies and wont start back up. Of all places it dies on a hill around a big turn in front of a grave yard. I mean it didn't make and funny sounds or anything just died. What the problem could be. I just replaced the cam sensor last week, I have read that it could be the crankshaft sensor or even timing belt. It does have higher miles 189k.
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Got an issues with my 02 Santa Fe. Shaky steering wheel at all speeds during straight driving more than in turns. 130k miles on the vehicle.
The tires are worn, and need replacing. No missing wheel weights that I saw. No issues with braking.
At slow speeds it feels like the front end is swaying back and forth. I am planning to have the tires replaced, but I feel that this is more than just the tires.
I suspect ball joints / tie rods are the culprit. Is there a good way to check these components from home verses going to a shop and having them diagnose the issue.
With ball joints / tie rods, I am confident that I can change them on my own.
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My mother has a 1999 Camry 4cyl. that has code P0340. She says that she was driving down the road and felt like a misfire, saw the MIL turn on. When she let off the gas, she said the car stalled. It is a crank no start issue now. I was able to pull the code, but really am not familiar with Toyotas in General. I am mechanically inclined but do not have access to media such as All Data or a Service manual. Do this is most likely the sensor itself or more of an ECU issue?
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I am having an engine issue with my 1995 Ranger with a 2.3L. I have been having a P0340 code that kept appearing after several attempts at resetting the PCM. I gave up and took it to a Ford dealer for diagnostics and they called the CPS bad. They changed it, but the CEL light immediately came on with the code still kept coming up. The service rep. showed me the old sensor, it had a spot on the head of it where it looked like something was rubbing it. I'm assuming it's slightly rubbing on the gear it points to, which is the oil pump gear, correct? The truck runs fine, no performance issues whatsoever. Is it possible my oil pump shaft has developed play in it's shaft, causing this?
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The p0340 code is the cam position right? Ready says bank 1.. Is there 2? Where the bank one is? And do I need to get on tdc on cyl one first or not?
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P0340 code appeared on my camry 07 said cam shaft position sensor was bad what other things can be the problem ? Also I just replaced alternator because car wouldn't start with out getting jumped once I replaced alternator it started up good for a couple of days then when I wanted to start it up it would crank then stop and crank again till it would turn on also car stereo would turn off while running and dashboard gauges would go off and would make the gauges go Dow to zero then it would go back to normal while still driving.
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