Santa FE SM (2001-06) :: 2002 Overheating - Small Fan On The Front Of Condenser Not Running
May 7, 2015
02 v6 awd my power steering cooler had a leak and was spraying fluid all over radiator. I replaced it and did a coolant flush new thermostat and a new temp sensor. Was still getting hot gauge was touching bottom of red. Did some looking my ac wasn't working for some reason the fuse was loose. I pushed it in and the big fan instantly kicked on high along with the ac. The small fan on the front of the condenser isn't running. Could this be my problem? When is it supposed to be running? I swapped the relays around with no change. I might take it apart tomorrow and hardware fan to see if it shot craps.
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I have a strange problem with my 2001 Santa Fe GLS that I can't put a finger on.
With my AC running, whenever the condenser fan (the one on the driver side) comes on, the electrical system seems to short out briefly (1/2 sec) - all lights go dimmed, the vehicle bucks - very scary when driving. Sometimes the engine sometimes shut off if idling.
I've changed the AC compressor (twice) and changed the entire condenser fan assembly to no avail.
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I figured out what was causing my small clunking noises in the front end.. They were faint, but you could hear them at low speeds..
Front sway bar bushes and end links.. Replaced mine with auto7 bushes and moog endlinks.. They didnt "feel" loose or wobbled but replacing these parts got rid of my clunks..
Only downside was the bushes are really hard to replace, need to remove the rack, subframe, etc..
My car has about 150k miles, and the bushes were a little oval..
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My Santa Fe driving me crazy. Have a 2002 Santa Fe 4 cyl with a problem. It will start when cold and run normal about 2 minutes. Then it starts running erratically like a misfire. If you let it idle this way it will stall quickly and not restart until totally cold again the next day. If you catch it quick enough and continually pump the throttle it continues to run rough until it starts to warm up. As it warms up the engine slowly improves until it reaches operating temp. At this point the misfire is much less but still there. If you shut it off for more than 10 minutes it will not start until the next day. There are no codes at this time. I have changed the coolant temp. sensor, the cam position sensor, fuel pump and screen, spark plugs and wires. I have also verified all timing marks on the crank, cams, etc. The crank sensor was replaced about 40k ago when the timing belt was replaced. What can I look for now???
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Those are the codes I'm getting. P0340, P1166 and P1167
Here's the story. Engine running flat under load. Easy acceleration is ok, but merging onto the turnpike causes a noticeable loss of power. Replaced the cam sensor, cleared the codes, ran ok for a day. Same codes came back, same flat performance.
Returned the cam sensor with another new one to make sure it wasn't a dud out of the box. Advance Auto Parts is awesome - replaced it no questions asked.
Installed the new cam sensor, cleared the codes. Ran great for a day, then the same symptoms came back, with the same codes. I'm thinking it might be the ECU? If it is, how expensive are they? And do they have to be programmed by the dealer?
This is a 2002 Santa Fe 2.7l automatic with around 147k miles on it.
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The best that I can describe what it feels like is at around 30 to 40 mph it shakes like your going over the side shoulder little pumps with both wheels. Only at those speeds... I all ready changed struts, tires, rack in pinion, upper and lower ball joints and tie rods. I have not change the tie rods that go up and down from struts to spindle its like 6" long or so can that be it? Or CV shaft?...
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I've been told that the 2002 Santa Fe that I drive has a small leak in the head gasket and that this will be a major problem for the A/C compressor in the not-too-distant future. Supposedly the compressor is located below where the leak is and that over time (5-6 months) this can/will cause the compressor to need to be replaced. Does this seem like a credible scenario?
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I have a 2002 Nissan Pathfinder. A couple of months ago the check engine light came on and the temperature gauge quickly hit the roof. I was able to pull it into my mechanics shop before any damages was done. They looked at it and said I needed a new thermostat and housing. A few weeks later the temp gauge again went up to near the top. I live, work and shop all in a close radius so am not in my car for long periods of time but the gauge seems to measure high after about 20 minutes of driving in the city (no more than 45 mph) with the AC on.
I turned off my AC and took the car back. They then replaced the fan belt and clutch that engages the fan. Took the car home and two days later temperature was up again. Took it back and they said they had not realized my car had a second thermostat so they changed it (at no additional charge "since they didn't catch that up front") - they kept my car for 2 days. A couple of days later the scenario replayed itself. I took it back in they changed the sensor to the temp gauge (at no additional charge) tested it and still overheated so now they have now also flushed radioator 3 times for any debris. They have had my car for three additional days now.
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my 2001 Ford Explorer has started overheating but there is no steam or water running out and when I turn the heater on I get slightly warm water what can I do? the temp gauge will go to hot and after a while will drop down then go back up to hot what kind of damage am I doing to my car?
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I have a klunk/rattle in the drivers side front end when I go over a small bump at a slow speed. The dealer said it was the struts - they repleced them along with the upper support thing. Noise still there, next they said it was a worn motor mount - noise still there
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I have a 2004 Santa Fe and have recently noticed the following problem. When it is hot outside (95 degrees) and car has been idling for a while, suddenly the A/C will start blowing warm air and the temperature gauge will start creeping up above normal. It hasn't fully overheated as when this occurs, I shut off the A/C or start moving and it returns to normal temperature. The A/C will then work properly again. Also, when this happens, if I turn the car off and then try to start it again a few minutes later, it is very hard to start but eventually starts. It can easily be reproduced, but I want to try to understand possible cause before taking it to a dealer. I was thinking maybe fan going bad, or fan switch.
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I'm trying to figure out a small leak on my mothers' Santa Fe. Recently I smelled coolant after my mother had gone for a long drive. I checked the Radiator and overflow... need maybe 1 qt of coolant.
Now I'm trying to find the cause of the missing coolant ! While it's running, I see no leak. Shut it off and it starts to drip from a small plastic tube on the firewall inside the engine bay area (on the passenger side). It drips down onto a rubber boot covering some steering stuff. Is this from the heater core?
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I have a clunk/rattle in the drivers side front end when I go over a small bump at a slow speed. The dealer said it was the struts - they replaced them along with the upper support thing. Noise still there, next they said it was a worn motor mount - noise still there --
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I have a clunk/rattle in the drivers side front end when I go over a small bump at a slow speed. The dealer said it was the struts - they replaced them along with the upper support thing. Noise still there, next they said it was a worn motor mount - noise still there --
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My air-con has packed up and I have been quoted nearly a thousand pounds to fix it. The problem is a leak in the condenser, which needs to be replaced. I've tried to source one myself, but there is some confusion over whether or not the condenser and the coolant radiators are combined, there is a vast difference in online prices.
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I purchased my first truck 2 weeks ago private sale a 2001 Explorer Sport Trac 4v4 4.0L. I noticed it had small leaks coming from transmission and front differential gaskets (the diff is silicone) but the oil levels remain fine. Within days I heard a loud hum coming from the engine for 10 seconds then immediately after i was slowing down for a speed bump and my truck tried to stall and since that point it was riding very rough at low speed/idle and sometimes giving it gas seemed to just kill it. Next day a check engine light comes on and I get it checked It was Bank 1 running lean and B1155 (Output shaft speed signal) which concerned me from what I found it is located by the transmission oil filter which has the leak.
A few more days later I broke down on the side of the road, the alternator had died and killed the battery, I replaced the alternator and belt, replaced the 6 spark plugs, 3 of which i removed way to easily with my hands and all 6 had an incorrect gap. Initially the car was still rough but now with the new plugs it is drivable but still a little weird on startup and idle and a little bit of the shakes around 60-65mph and seems to be over actively shifting soon as i let off the gas even a little bit. Today I had the check engine light assessed again, now Bank 1 and Bank 2 are lean, still have the B1155 as well as a new C1676 (Battery pack voltage out of range) which light research said it could be ABS module or it could be a false code from being jumped days prior and that code wont clear on its own.
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2002 F-250 7.3 4x4 ...
I have a rattling noise coming from the front suspension (both sides) when going over small bumps. Most people point to ball joints, but I find my case odd because I just replaced
Upper/Lower ball joints
Track bar
Tie rod ends
Shocks
Front U joints
Drag link
I did not touch the leaf springs or the sway bar, except to grease the links, which otherwise looked good.
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This little engine runs very hot. To make matters worst the radiator fan comes on high on the gauge temperature reading unlike other cars I have had in the past. What else to do to run the engine cooler without affecting fuel economy? I wish there was a way to make the radiator fan come on at a lower temperature.
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Came out of my house and my 04 Sante Fe will not stay running. It worked fine on the way home form work won't stay started now. You can give it gas and everything but it just dies out after a few moments. I checked most of the basics...
-Fuel pump runs when key is on
-Added gas, over 1/4 tank
-Checked engine fuses
-removed air filters and hoses
-removed mass air intake unit
-down to throttle body and such,
-to keep running by spraying gas directly into engine?
-removed fuel pump under seat
-checked mesh filter and connections
-clean no build up no visual problems with pump or filter
-checked cut off switch, not activated
-removed gas line from injector rail getting good "squirting" from rail
I have asked everyone and most think it is some kind of sensor but I have no light on and I have put it on the OBII and no error codes are found unless I un plug one of the many sensors, which i have done to a few to check them (air mass intake).
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I have a 2002 Santa Fe V6. I'm getting the codes p1529, p0755, p0760, & p0765.
The car can start up & go, only for a short time. Engine will keep running, car won't move.
Kill the engine for 3 to 5 minutes, can start it up & go once again. Going 40mph increases the odds of the car not moving quicker.
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03 Santa Fe, 2.7 L engine. No cooling happening. Compressor not running. Jumpered both sides of the triple pressure switch. Jumpering Low/high side resulted in slight increase in engine rpm, Jumpering medium side and something turned on (didn't get a chance to investigate) but still no clutch operation on compressor. Wondering what to try next other than disconnecting and dropping compressor ?? Checked AC relay on the bench and the coil operates and contacts close, so that's good. Also10A fuse before relay contacts is OK.
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