Santa FE SM (2001-06) :: 2002 - Misfiring / Codes P0171 And P0300 Came Up
Jan 16, 2014
My car is misfiring, codes p0171 and p0300 come up on the code reader. It idles rough and has very little power. I have checked my exhaust , it is not plugged. When I unplug coil #2 while idling there is no change as to the engine performance so I switched the coils around with no difference when coil is unplugged on cylinder #2. I have changed the plugs, there is power to the coil, all plugs are firing and when removed plugs 2 and 3 are wet with fuel indicating I am getting fuel and fire. I have replaced the cam sensor with no change.
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i have a 01 passat with a v6 in it on 4 motion and im having an issue with soem mis-firing
i pulled the codes. P0300 P0301 P0302 and P0303 which are all saying that there are missfires in cylander 1,2 and 3 and random miss fires.
im also getting a P0340 which is cam sensor A or the right hand bank. problem is i just replaced the cam sensor and when the motor got warm, the code came back. I was told by the previous owner that the car needed a Coolant Temp Sensor....can this be the cause of my mis-fire issue? hear me out.... it only happens when the car is warm so im thinking that the car is warm but the ecu thinks its cold cause its not getting a good signal from the CTS. thus its either advancing the timing as if the motor is cold and cuasing a miss fire or something along those lines. any thoughts?
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Still having problems with my 2.4l 2002 santa fe. At stand still the MAF readings are within range. At 2000rpm it reads 9.3 gm/s. the info I have says it should be between 7.89-9.83.
When driving along at 50mph, 5th gear, engine speed 2000rpm it reads approx. 25.0 gm/s. at 3000rpm it reads 48 gm/s. Is the MAF sensor faulty?
It is now not running very well with fault codes P0171(fuel system to lean) That code comes up whilst driving at speed. I also get P0172(fuel system to rich). I got that one whilst driving slowly in a car park.
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I have a 2005 F-150 5.4L 2WD 90K miles. I started getting a misfire and hard jerk when going uphill. No codes for a few days but misfire got a little worse and more jerking at full throttle acceleration or level throttle up a hill got codes p0300 and p0171. I replaced the fuel filter cleaned MAF and changed plugs Motorcraft plugs (none of them broke during replacement). Miss got worse. Missing at idle and no power 3K rmp to get to 40. Only code pulled was p0171. Replaced upstream O2 sensors and COPs. Will barely idle now. Dies when put in gear. Full throttle barely moves forward a few feet just sputters. Checked vacuum lines cannot find anything. Only code I get is P0171. Fuel injectors next? Or shop?
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My girlfriends 2007 accent as thrown codes p0300 and p0302.
After reading everything I could find, I had coil pack on my list of possible problem items.
The car sat in the driveway yesterday and when she went to start it today, she couldn't get it to.
I got it to start when I got home by giving it some gas while turning the key, but I don't want to drive it anywhere.
The hard start is leading me to believe it's the coil pack.
I was going to start with changing the pcv, spark plugs, and run fuel injector cleaner through it because those are the cheap possibilities...but now may add in a new coil pack.
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My 07 3.3 SF is throwing P0154 and P0300 codes. Autozone said the P0154 is Bank 2 pre-cat O2 sensor. But exactly which one? The P0300 is random misfire. Could they be related?
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Saturn 2002 SL1 5-speed. My SES light has been on constantly for about a year (was intermittent before that) with the codes P0172, P0300 and P0507. The car also idle high (2500+) occasionally at stops. My mechanic said it is likely an intake gasket but would need a full diagnostic to determine and that is not a safety hazard to drive but that I am getting less mph. I can't afford to fix it now but I have an emission test due. Is there a way to turn to light in the mean time?
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My wifes 2007 Santa Fe Limited 3.3 has had a check engine light going on a year now. Car has about 122k on it now. Scanned codes about 6 months ago and had a fuel system lean code. Did some reading and ended up replacing the purge valve. The CEL stayed off til the end of the drive cycle and came right back. I have noticed when you fill the car up there is a real strong smell of gas but the car always starts right up. It now has a P0171 Fuel system too lean (b1) and P2187 Fuel system too lean at idle. Where to start. Don't have much background with hyundai. Also the ESC off light comes on randomly and goes off. Doesn't happen real frequently though.
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2002 F150 - 5.4 ... So just bought this truck about a month an a half ago. No problems but the other day the SES came on. It is showing P0171 and P0174. And P0000 (almost forgot that one) was told that's generic though. Haven't really noticed a difference in the way it's running. Has been extremely cold here in WV but the only thing I can notice (or think I notice) is the gas mileage has gone down a little. After reading some on this forum I'm looking for a vacuum leak correct?
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Working on my son's 2001 sport trac. 200K miles but it has always been a great running truck.
I have two CEL codes:
P0171 System too Lean (Bank 1)
P0174 System too Lean (Bank 2)
I have found several issues so far, but have yet to get rid of these pesky codes.
So far I have changed:
- Intake Gasket - I had coolant loss which replacing this gasket fixed.
- PCV Valve and Hose - valve was damaged and the hose leaked.
- EGR Valve - Valve was leaking
- Fuel Filter
- Mass Airflow Sensor
The engine does appear to be running much smoother now, but the lean codes remain.
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Actually I bought a used Corolla 2002 with 120K which seemed fine and the driving is fine. After I bought it, I just found out that the seller has removed the check engine light. When I read the ODB codes, It shows three codes of 0171, 0420, 0441. Also I have recently found out that the engine burns excessive amount of oil. (about a quarter per 200 miles). Actually the driving of the car is fine and as long as I add oil engine it seems fine.I think all of these errors might be just due to a small problem like a broken valve (since it's not high mileage). It seems that there is no vacuum leak from hoses as well.
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I have a 2004 Hyundai Santa Fe 3.5L V6 when i was driving a couple of days ago the check engine light flashed and after a while it stayed on the codes are P0300 which is a random misfire as well as a misfire in cylinder 2, 4 and 6
I replaced all 6 spark plugs and the 3 spark plug wires still the same issue. The car hesitates when accelerating when i accelerate it looks like it wants to stop the rpm goes to almost zero and then it moves and so on. the rpm goes up and down like crazy.
Sometimes it won't move past 1000 rpm I'm moving 60mph and still on 1000rpm and sometimes it works just fine like there is no issue at all. When idle the car is fine and everything seems normal it stays on 900rpm. The car has 158K miles on it.
I uploaded a video to show you what's happening to the tachometer when I accelerate [URL] ....
I'm on a limited budget I'm thinking of changing the ignition coils but i want to make sure that's what is causing the problem first because i spent 200$ to change spark plugs and wires and the mechanic didn't fix the issue.
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I got a 2001 Escape XLT (V6) a couple of months ago. Its in great condition, only 82k miles on it too. It had the notorious door handle issues which I have had fixed. It also had the wet weather stuttering problem, which I had fixed by having all 6 spark plugs replaced (Motorcraft OEM plugs), the back 3 coils replaced, upper intake gaskets replaced, Valve cover gasket replaced, PCV valve replaced (motorcraft).
It runs great when its warm, the problem I am having is when its cold outside and the engine is cold, it starts up fine but idles like crap and if its really cold outside, it starts and dies 3 or 4 times before it can even get to the crappy, stuttering idle. I have to intermittently feed it gas to keep the cold idle going long enough (3 or 4 minutes) before I can drive it. Once the engine is warm it drives like a champ. The only warm engine issue, is occasionally after driving it and putting it in park, the engine will rev up to 2000, 3000+ rpms, and just keep going up until I shut the engine off.
The codes read P0171 and P0174, which are lean on bank 1 and bank 2. It had also thrown a misfire on cyl 6 but once I cleared that it hasn't come back, just the lean codes are still present.
From what Ive been reading, this can be a number of issues, ranging from the IAC valve, EGR valve, MAF or the lower intake gaskets. I'm very much a rookie when it comes to car mechanics, but I think I can handle changing the IAC, EGR and MAF since they are all on top of the engine. However I don't know if I could handle the lower intake gaskets. Ironically, the gaskets are the cheapest part, but the most labor if I paid someone else to do it.
If I replace the EGR, do I also need to replace the EGR Modulator as well? Looking for brand names that are best bang for the buck when it comes to these other parts I have mentioned?
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I have an 02 ranger xlt 3.0, it started having a rough idle, codes say cylinder #2&3 misfiring, changed plugs, wires, coil pack, didn't work, still same code, checked injectors on right side, all 3 had ohm reading of 15.8-16.5, the injectors were clicking like they are supposed to, sprayed carb cleaner around the intake ports, didn't change the idle at all,what else can I check or do? with out tearing the engine apart, unless of course I have to, the truck has been very good to me, it's got 205,000 miles on it, I need it to last at least another year...
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I have a 2011 GTI (purchased new in 2010) with a stage 1 APR tune and a carbonio stage 1 intake. 71K miles on the car, tune has been on it from nearly the beginning, no issues. I have religiously filled with 93 octane gas -- like, always. The other day I was filling up an empty tank in NJ -- land of mandatory attendants -- and I accidentally said "premium" instead of "super." (I normally self-serve in PA). Before I realized what had happened, I had a full tank of 91 in the car.
I run the 93 octane program on my APR, and I couldn't remember how to switch, so I've been running around the last few days that way, seemingly with no issues. I'm not even sure what's supposed to happen if you burn 91 while in the 93 program.
Anyway, yesterday I happened to go full-throttle in 1st or 2nd gear, and I ran into a little stumble. Strange, but I figured maybe this was the result of my refueling mistake. So, I got out my APR manual and figured out how to switch programs down to the 91 program, which I then did. Took the car out again, and was still able to get it to stumble, eventually with a blinking, then solid CEL. A quick VCDS check showed a "Random/Multiple Cylinder Misfire Detected" -- P0300 and "Cylinder 2 Misfire Detected - MIL" -- P0302.
Now at 71K miles, I've never replaced the coils or the plugs, although I have had 2 intake manifolds replaced under warranty. I'm kind of figuring the octane and tune are not really causing this and it's probably just in need of some coils/plugs. what is "supposed" to happen if you run 91 octane on the 93 program? I haven't tired backing down to stock yet, but I could certainly do that and see what happens.
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I got a 1997 sonoma which has a p0300 code. I changed the plugs and wires, cap and rotor and the pcv value, and it still misses. what could this be?
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Went to do a few things this morning, started the car and it ran like crap. It was an obvious multi cylinder misfire. I checked to make sure all the coil connections and all other visible connectors were tight. Went back around and noticed the mil was flashing, so I shut it down and took the girl's car. I returned later in the afternoon and swapped out my intake in anticipation of it going to the dealer. Started up the car afterward and it ran fine without the mil lit. I had the codes pulled:
p0300 p0303 p0306 Its kind of weird that 2 coils would go at the same time. Do these cylinders share a coil or fuel injector driver off the ecm?
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In the last year and a half I have developed a problem with my truck missing under a very specific condition. It only happens when the humidity is 100%, either right before, during, or after rain. When it's at 100% humidity outside, the first time I start the car for the day it starts missing. This continues until the truck comes up to full temperature, usually a about three or four miles, then it clears up. By the way, snow doesn't cause this unless its mixed with rain.
My mechanics are at a loss, say there is no info on the diagnostics. Since this started, I have had an inclusive tune up, they replace all plugs and wires, I've had all belts and the pulley replaced, and I've changed the intake air filter twice.
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In my 2003 3.5 awd I successfully got my used transmission in and running great. I made the mistake of washing the engine. Now, it runs like Cr@p. It pops and sputters. At one point the CEL came on with 7 codes mostly misfires. It ran ok prior to the bath but I am getting ready to do the timing belt and wp and plug wires. In the meantime, whats the most likely cause of misfires after a hosing down on these engines? I'm leaning towards plug wires or coils...
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My engine doesn't run smoothly (like a misfire) when accelerating at hwy speeds, especially when the outside temp is above 20 degrees... the warmer the temps are, the worse it is.
I have a code P0431 - "warm up cat efficiency below threshold (Bank 2)"
Is it an O2 sensor problem, and if so, which one is it and what is the Hyundai p/n for the sensor? Bank 2 is in the front, correct?
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Recently replaced plugs/wires on soon-to-be 10 year old '04 SF 3.5L (157K mi.) for the first time.
Plugs were OE Champion Platinum and all 6 looked identical except for excessive gap of .010 +/- due to all the miles. Replaced plugs with same as OE. Old plug wires looked good, but replaced them with aftermarket wires ( fit was as good as OE). Also replaced plenum gasket.
Problem is: engine runs rough at idle and high rpm and appears to be mis-firing. CEL is off and code reader shows no Trouble Codes stored.
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