2002 Santa Fe has been misfiring for about a month...yesterday it got worse...When it's running hot and stopped at intersection it lurches forward.. It stalled when backing up after being parked. Mechanic did diagnostic test and it showed zero...He changed 2 wires to spark plugs..Spark plugs have only 20,000 miles and SUV has 68,000 miles.
View 6 RepliesOn the way into town, leaving a intersection lost all forward movement coasted to a parking lot. second gear would hold, drove home about six miles. When home put into reverse hear it go into gear , but slip. All other forward gears same, hear go into gear but slip, except second would hold. I think low fluid, or mechanical problem about 155000 miles. 2002 Mercury Mountaineer.
View 5 RepliesMy 2002 Buick Lesabre has about 160,000 miles on it I keep up with maintenance regular oil changes and what not. Today when I am driving to work and right as I get on the freeway my car starts lurching forward and slowing down repeatedly so I pull over turn the car off look under the hood everything looks normal to me. I wait a bit start the car up and the lights on my panel go from the dimmest they can be to blinding bright and I could not adjust the brightness at all. Any way the car drove fine the rest of the way but the lights were bright as can be the whole way there. What could be causing this? Bad battery?
View 5 RepliesThis is an issue when I brake over a small bump or pothole. It lurches forward and I feel like I have lost control of the brakes and we are about to crash into the car in front of me. Seems like this is an issue with other Prius years but I thought this was fixed with the v.
View 5 RepliesI have a 2007 Passat 2.0T wagon. I got gas this am, and on my 30 minute drive to work all was fine until I got into traffic or came to a stop sign. While at the stop sign the car started to lurch forward or even seemed to be up and down. The idle was fine, completely constant. It was like the car was hopping or wanting to push forward. It did not happen in reverse or neutral and the car was fine while driving. What this could be?
View 4 RepliesMy 2013 goes 7mph with the foot off the gas. Why is it doing this and is there any way to correct this?
Is this normal? I have to keep my foot jammed on the brake to stop the car from lurching forward.
My wife was driving her 2008 Gen II Prius and stopped at an intersection. The car died. She had it towed back home, and I have been able to do all of the following:
1) Checked 12v battery voltage. Battery was bad - approx. 10.4 volts.
2) Switched battery with my other Prius (checked voltage first, and that battery was 12.4v and other Prius starts fine).
Car won't start.
3) Pressed brake "very hard" and pushed Start button. --- Car won't start. No lights on dashboard.
4) Checked voltage of battery again with digital volt meter -- 12.4v
5) Checked headlights -- Very bright.
6) Checked dome light -- Very bright.
7) Checked door locks -- Locks & unlocks rapidly.
8) Checked emergency flashers -- All lights blink/flash brightly.
9) Made sure all features listed above are off, pressed brake pedal, pushed Start button again -- Car won't start. No lights on dashboard.
10 Checked voltage of battery again -- 12.4v
11) Tried other key FOB -- Car won't start. No lights on dashboard.
12) Replaced battery on key FOB -- Car won't start. No lights on dashboard.
13) Pushed Start button without depressing brake (to try to initiate accessory mode) -- No accessory mode. No lights on dashboard.
14) Checked voltage of battery again -- 12.4v
I've been told by my dealer that the 6-speed transmission in our rigs is known to shift roughly. They have therefore pronounced my truck healthy. However, I don't think I believe it. I've never seen a vehicle that lurched forward on upshifts under moderate acceleration. It behaves if I punch it. It behaves if I accelerate like my granny. Anything in between and I get a fairly violent jump at each shift point. At times, in stop-and-go traffice, I have thought the truck would jump into the car ahead of me. This behavior seems to be unrelated to which transmission mode I'm in. D, S, and Tip all do it. I love the motor in this thing, but I'm starting to hate the tranny. What should I tell the dealer to look for on the truck that might be causing this? The truck is going in next week to replace a fog light with condensation, so I'm hoping to get them to look at it then.
View 1 RepliesI recently inherited this car from a relative, I had it and two other vehicles she owned towed to my house about a week ago. The Sonata has under 1000 miles on it and I found a stack of repair orders from the dealer where she complained that the car wouldn't move or where it had been towed after getting stuck at an intersection while driving.
What is happening is that when I get in the car, with the engine cold, it starts up and drives fine. Then with no pattern or warning, when I stop at an intersection, the transmission acts as if its in neutral. It won't go into any gear, regardless of where I put the shifter. Its got the 2.4L GDI motor. and an automatic trans.
I had to tow it 5 times now. I took it to the local dealer and they found nothing wrong, no codes, and couldn't reproduce the problem. Yet when I went to pic it up, it did it a block from the dealer, I had to push the car to the shoulder at the light. I walked to the dealer, they had a tech come out to the car and by the time he got there the problem was gone. I took it home, and when I got home, I shut it off, then tried starting it and moving it again and nothing, it wouldn't move at all, no forward, no reverse. I find that if I cycle the key, on and off, sometimes the issue will go away instantly. I also never does it cold, only after driving it a bit. It has never done anything wrong while driving at speed, only when coming to a stop and trying to move again.
When it happens, the shifter moves fine, the engine revs and there are no warning lights on the dash, it just acts like its in neutral regardless of what gear the shifter is in. It doesn't creep or pull at all, there's no movement at all when it acts up and I have to drive it to get it to do it, it can idle in the driveway all day and won't do it till I take it down the road and come to a stop and try to start moving again.
Out of frustration I bought a scan tool to see what's up but as long as the scan tool is plugged in, it doesn't act up. I've been driving it for two days without it doing it. Thinking it may be just coincidence, I unplugged the scan tool, took a ride and it did it at the first intersection, I had to shut the car off, plug in the scanner to get the car back home. I called the dealer and was told that this was impossible.
I'm starting to feel like I'm on my own with this one since the dealer seems to not be able to find the issue. I am really having a hard time believing that the dealer can't make it act up but if they're plugging a scan tool in, and driving it, maybe that's why?
My '05 Dodge Neon's engine just quit when I was stopped at an intersection. All the lights, etc worked. When I turned the key the engine would sound like it started for a brief moment, but it always died a second later and didn't respond to pressure on the gas pedal. I took it to a shop that replaced the alternator, throttle sensor, and "idle air control mtr". A few days later, the car died the exact same way when I was driving down the road. I took it to a second mechanic who looked it over the next day, and it was running. He couldn't find the issue, and it didn't die when he drove it. I don't know if these symptoms are related, but a few minutes before it broke down the first time it jerked and the gauges went crazy. I had a check engine light for "not reading fuel level" or something like that after the first repair but before the second break down, which my first mechanic dismissed as not really important when I asked him about it. My lights also flicker a lot. Battery was replaced last year.
View 4 RepliesI am having a problem with my 2003 Santa Fe I have taken it to have the check engine light codes read and I have a code for the crankshaft position sensor, random misfires, something with gear 2 and 3 (not sure what it was exactly) it makes a loud noise when in 1st and 2nd gear when I shift out of 2nd the noise gets less and less until its gone and then does not come back until the car sits for a little while and cools down. Its running rough and does not have any power when accelerating. I had the timing belt changed a few weeks ago and it started running funny shortly after. I don't think the guy that did the timing belt knew what he was doing because I had to have someone go behind him and tighten the pulley.
View 3 RepliesWe have a 2001 Santa Fe. Very recently it began hesitating when put in gear going forward or reverse. Once the gas pedal is pressed, there's a delay of up to 2 seconds as RPM climbs, then the vehicle jerks into gear. It seems to run fine otherwise. Mileage is approx 128 k. Maintained very well by the same mechanic until very recently. Internet searches have gotten answers of use fuel additive, install some computer patch, fix an oxygen sensor, change tranny fluid and flush tranny, rebuild tranny.
View 2 RepliesWhile driving at between 20-45 MPH in warm weather only IDEAL SPEED IS 38-42 .. At times the car jerks forward and downward like, even slowing down at red light: Seems like the whole problem is coming from transmission! (Sensors)? The car is cursed. Example:
1- The symptom seems like your driving in drive position then all of sudden it shifts to low gear
2- When driving normal then it seems like the car shifts to neutral and the RPMs shoot up to 3-4
3- Sometimes when stopped the steering wheel shakes bad.
The car runs normal in winter time? Doesn't do it everyday.
I recently bought a 2001 Sante Fe 4X4, (my first Hyundai), that has transmission issues. It has about 135,000 miles on it. It will start easily, and go into Reverse just fine, but would not move in any forward gears. It would occasionally shudder a bit when put in 'drive', but only move forward a few inches. Recently, my mechanic backed it around, then decided to try it in forward again. This time it went forward a couple hundred feet, then quit moving forward. Do I need a new transmission, and if so, what vehicles use this same transmission? Or is there a sensor or valve that could be defective?
View 5 RepliesWhen driving if you ease off the accelerator at an intersection and go again the car hesitates badly and then slowly picks up it has had new plugs etc., very worried nearly got wiped out this morning...
View 1 RepliesHave a problem with my Santa Fe. 2004 2.4l.
My wife drove the car when the problem first appeared. She had been driving for 30 min, roughly 30km, and the car looses power and stops. Won't start when she tries. It cranks but won't fire up. When she waits for a minute it fires up but stalls.
We took it to a workshop. No code. They changed the fuel filter, which hadn't been changed for a long time.
They took it for a drive and it worked fine. I picked it up and it was working. Then it died when I exited the highway. It had lost some power during a second while still on the highway. I had driven it for roughly 30km and the engine was hot. Again, was able to start it it up for a couple of seconds if I let it cool for a couple of minutes. Got a lift home and returned in the evening and it started on the first try.
Took it to work the next morning. Wouldn't start in the afternoon when it had been standing in the sun and was gazing hot. Opened the fuel cap to release any vacuum. No change. Again started when I returned this morning and it wasn't very hot.
The engine warning lamp hasn't light up. Will try to see if there is a fault code tomorrow. Will try to measure the fuel pressure eventually.
The valve position sensor and timing belt was changed a year ago.
I have a 2001 Hyundai Santa Fe LX with 214,000 miles on it. In general, I am having two problems which are most likely related. I would like to get opinions on what is causing the problems, how to fix the problems, and what the cost might be for the fix. This is an older car and I don't want to bring it to a mechanic to just do searching.
1. RPMs fluctuate quickly at slower speeds in town stop and go traffic and while parking in Drive or Reverse. Fluctuation can be between 1000 to 2000 and 3000 RPMs back and forth.
2. Car stalls while sitting at stops when in Drive. When car stalls, RPMs have suddenly decreased to 0 (zero).
3. RPMs fluctuating and car stalling typically occur after I have made my first stop and have turned off the car.
There is also a Check Engine Light Code: P0304, Cylinder 4 Misfire Detected. I changed the vehicle speed sensor a few months ago.
Here are the details of what has been happening, when it happens, and what I have tried.
- When RPMs fluctuate, the car slowly accelerates and slows down and I can hear revving high and low. This happens when the RPMS fluctuate just a few RPMs around 1000 and when the RPMs are fluctuating up to higher RPMs.
- After the car has been driven for about 45 minutes and car is at slower speeds, RPMs will fall to zero while at stop and in Drive, and the RPM fluctuation will begin.
- RPMs jump to 2000 or 3000 and stay there but do not fluctuate when car is put in Park and Neutral.
- When car is in Park and at 2000 or 3000 RPMs, car takes a few extra seconds to turn off.
- Car accelerates without pressing gas pedal and will accelerate up to 40 mph.
- Car will sometimes lurch at slower speeds of 15, 25, and 35 mph when RPMs are fluctuating or when the gas pedal is pressed.
- When RPMs are fluctuating and at 1000 or higher and I am pressing the brake to slow down, the car fights in Drive and in Reverse.
- RPM fluctuation does not occur at interstate speeds.
- A couple days ago, when I was at interstate speeds of 60 to 75 mph and pressed the gas pedal, the car would stutter and jerk.
- RPM fluctuation and stalling primarily do not occur when the car is started at the beginning of the day or when the car has been off for several hours.
- Twice In the last week the RPM fluctuation and stalling occurred even after car was not started for several hours and after only about 5 to 10 minutes of driving in town stop and go traffic.
- Sometimes car stalls when I'm at a stop and slightly press the gas pedal to start driving.
- There are times in town traffic when the car is operating normally and is at 750 RPMs at stop, then the RPMs suddenly decreased from 750 to 0 (zero) and the car stalls.
- From Neutral, sometimes when I simultaneously put the car in Drive and press the gas pedal either by feathering or forcefully pressing pedal 3/4 to the floor, the car would have a delayed reaction to accelerate but would not shut off.
- After car has stalled, if I try to start it right away, the car cranks but does not start for about 5 minutes.
- The time between stalling and being able to get the car to turn back on has increased over time from starting up at first crank to not starting for 5 minutes.
- If I let the car sit for 3 to 5 minutes after it has stalled, the car starts up but takes a couple seconds to start while pumping the gas pedal.
- Issues have been happening since November but are getting more frequent.
- Stalling is happening more frequently and within minutes of each other.
My wife and I own an 2003 2.7L Santa Fe 2WD with ~176K miles, for the past couple months we have been having several problems with this car, the biggest problem being that it will buck and jump while driving, and is now beginning to stall out. The stalling issue happens while driving at low speeds, while stopped in traffic, or while idling. The engine will rev slightly higher then stall out but will usually start right up afterwards. Only once that I know of, my wife has told me that it would not start right away.
I have read that the cause could be the CPS or fuel pressure regulator. Is there anyway, other than just swapping parts, to narrow down the culprit to the correct fix? The other problem we are having is the hard start after fueling up. I tested the Purge Valve by blowing into the hose, and determined it to be bad and will replacing it soon.
A little history on the car: I replaced the fuel pump and strainer last year, and a couple years we had 2 of the 3 catalytic converters fall apart and clogged the exhaust, so I knocked them out and have been driving with only one intact converter (rear exhaust manifold) since then. I know that isn't good for the O2 sensors, but we cannot afford to replace them at $300+ a piece.
I have a manual transmission, 2003 Chevy Cavalier with 197,000 miles. Car has been great up until 6 months ago. My husband is great with keeping up with oil changes/ routine car maintenance. The reason for my post is, I am having two main problems with my car
1.) Significant drops in RPMs while stopped.
2.) lurching while on the accelerator.
The significant drops in RPMs occur while at a complete stop and do not occur at every stop, it seems completely random. This first started roughly 5-6 months ago, my husband replaced the spark plugs and it was running fine until last week. Same symptoms- while at a stop it fluctuates between an idle of 1000rpms down to almost 0 (car has never died, but sounds like it comes close). The second set of symptoms have been fairly consistent the past 2-3 months. At first I thought I had some bad fuel so I applied fuel treatment- seemed to solve the problem until I filled up again. Same problem- again treated with fuel treatment, and issue resolved.
The same tank of fuel got down to 1/4 tank, and symptoms started a third time. Again- fuel treatment. The car is now down to 1/2 a tank and the lurching has started once again. There is no way I continue to get this unlucky with bad fuel. The car lurches forward more when I maintain a higher speed (50-60mph) but on occassion can occur while going much slower. It typically jerks for 5ish miles, it doesnt occur my entire drive to/from work (22miles). My check engine light is on, but has been for years. This is my daily driver, I depend on this car and am nervous if I dont find out what is wrong- ill end up stranded.
I have an issue of fuel pressure I believe on my 2003 3.5 Santa fe...It would start then stall...I'm at my wits end with this thing...I checked the relay and its good...checked all fuses and they are good...I don't hear the 2-3 second whine of the pump when I turn the ignition to the on position, so I suspected a bad pump...but before I bought a new pump I took out the back seat, removed the access cover and checked the connector to see if the pump is getting power...its not...I'm at a loss as to where to look next...
View 35 RepliesI have a 2003 santa fe I just replaced the cat. in it because it was running so poorly. Now that I've replaced the cat it seems to be worse. The car idles real rough, and cant get it to go over 2000 rpms. No engine light. Had the codes checked and all came out fine. I pulled out the plugs and replaced with new. The car in park ran great until I put it in gear then went back to the same no power, rough idle and cant get more than 2000rpm with out a stall. Stalls but dose not die. Disconnected the pre o2 sensor no change.
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