My daughter asked me to look at & listen to a horrible grinding noise coming from the upper right area of her Santa Fe's rear hatch. There was a plastic grinding noise coming from THIS:
It's the lock actuator for the rear hatch.
Sometimes it works.
Sometimes it doesn't.
Sometimes it makes that horrible plastic grinding noise.
Have a CR-V noise coming from rear tire area I think. It sounds like a growling or low pitched grinding. Noticeable at 30-40 mph up hills. I have changed trans fluid and rear diff fluid in the last 15K miles.
View 4 RepliesThis morning whilst backing out of my driveway and starting to drive down the street, I noticed the rather loud noise coming from the hatch area. Kind of like someone was crinkling some cellophane loudly.
The sound continued the entire commute to work (6.5 mi). The sound would stop only when I was stopped.
I have a 2002 Hyundai Santa Fe v6. I've had problems with the air conditioning in that it blows hot. Paid around 900 bucks to have a new compressor installed because the mechanic said that would fix it but it didn't. That was about 8 months ago. Still blowing strong but no cold air. About two weeks ago I took the car to a different mechanic who told me it needs a new compressor which would be 900 bucks. I declined that but had the guy do a little work on the breaks. He put new rotors and pads on the front brakes two weeks ago. Now within the past couple days when I start the car up it makes an extremely loud nasty grinding type of sound for a couple seconds then stops. Oil is fine and new. It happened this morning long enough for me to look under the hood and see the fans looked like they were fine, and the loud grinding noise seems to be coming from behind the glove box. It hasn't broke down on me yet, it's just really obnoxious and embarrassing with all the noise every morning.
View 8 RepliesI own a Canadian 2013 Santa Fe sport AWD 2.0l turbo. Back in June/ July 2015 I noticed a poping / grinding noise coming from the rear of the vehicle when ever I made sharp turns under moderate acceleration. I brought my car into the dealer as it was still under warranty. They diagnosed the problem to be my viscous coupler apparently it was defective.
The part was ordered and replaced about 3 weeks later. After the warranty work was completed in still noticed a noise coming from the back end. I took my car back to the dealer. They found that the rear tires were "cupped" they recommended to get a 4 wheel alignment to solve the cupping issue.
In my past experiences tire cupping is usually caused by a worn out suspension component such as bad shocks. So to avoid conflict of interest I took my car to Canadian Tire to get the alignment checked and adjusted.
Sure enough the front wheels only were slightly out of alignment and a minor adjustment was made. No adjustments made to the rear. The technician advised me that due to the minor adjustment, the alignment would not cause my rear wheels to cup. The complete suspension was checked and no problems were found.
So...would a bad viscous coupler cause wheel cupping???
My Santa Fe had 48000kms at the time of the original noise was detected.
I do not tow a trailer or haul overloaded loads.
The majority of kilometres made Is done on highway.
The rear tires have now been rotated to the front.
2008 GX 470 ... Experience noise that sounds to be coming from the back hatch/toolbox area when going over harsh bumps? If so is there a known fix for this? I was thinking of adding weather stripping in a couple of strategic locations.
View 4 RepliesI am having problems with the rear hatch door not unlocking easily, have to lock and unlock multiple times before it releases. I have stripped and lubricated it and it works fine for a day. Also having issues with petrol cover release not working as well.
View 1 RepliesThe rear door hatch on my 2002 Sante fe is not working. The Latch freezes in position to the handle and does not release or rebound back to the normal position, the door remains locked. I have taken the inner door cover apart,lubricated working controls and checked for any broken items.
View 14 RepliesSo, when I was leaving work I started my car up and heard what sounds like a low grinding noise coming from the area where the serpentine belt is. Let the car idle and it remained.
Put the car in gear and drove off and the sound was still there. the sound gets louder as I increase my speed. It went away a couple of times when I was braking, then came back.
I stopped at the gas station and could still hear it. After getting gas, fired the car back up and heard nothing. When I drove off, the sound returned.
I got home and put it in park, leaving the car on, opened the hood and could still hear the noise. Pressed and held the gas a few times and the sound did get louder.
I am pretty sure it is coming from some rotating part, but no clue what part. What this could be?
recap:
-get noise on startup
-while driving noise gets louder
-sometimes it stops when braking
-sound coming from area of serpentine belt
I'm driving a 2002 Hyundai Santa Fe with 83,000 miles on it.
Had it in the shop (dealer) a couple of weeks back for some work on the transmission. While there, I had the dealer perform the work for Recall 090 (corrosion of rear trailing arm). Since that time, there has been a clicking noise coming from what I believe to be the right rear wheel (it is definitely coming from the right [passenger] side). The noise sounds like metal rubbing up against metal, for lack of a better description. The noise is directly correlated to wheel rotation... the faster I drive the vehicle, the more frequently it occurs; the slower I drive, the less frequently it occurs.
The noise is very noticeable, and I am certain that it did not exist prior to my latest visit to the dealer. I am considering taking the vehicle to an independent mechanic this time, as the dealer repeatedly tells me that they aren't to blame, or I end up leaving the dealership with more problems than I arrived with.
I have a very slight grinding noise coming from the PS pulley area. Its possibly bearing noise although its hard to say. Is there a specific torque requirement. Any good parts...
View 1 Replies...... 2010 Corolla LE 1.8L ...... View the video I uploaded ....... The noise is seems to be getting worse. My first thought is the bearings in the water pump may have failed. I'm also thinking that there isn't adequate lubrication near the gear assembly or the belt. Could there be a problem with the tension in the belt?
View 7 RepliesI have a 97 250 LD 5.4 that suddenly has a grinding noise coming from the area where the transmission and motor meet. I took the inspection plate off the transmission and can look up inside there and see everything moving. I use a screw driver and if I flex the plate that mounts between the transmission and the motor I am able to get the noise to quiet down until I release the screwdriver and then the plate flexes back and scrapes making the noise again.
I can not see where the plate is grinding when I look up inside there. I can't figure out how to fix this.... Why it would just start doing this on its own as none of the bolts on the housing have been removed except for the two bolts that hold the starter on. (Changed it a couple of weeks ago). Thought about loosening the bolts on the tranny housing but I'm afraid that it would open me up to further problems???
For the last two days I've had a very intermittent (tck, tck, tck) sound coming from what sounds like the glove compartment area. It has a rep rate of around three times a second and is very regular. It sounds like a relay to me. It has only lasted less than 20 seconds on each occurrence so don't have time to troubleshoot. I took that area apart and I see two 12volt 25 amp what look like relays just to the right of the glove compartment. I've left that area torn apart so if it happens again I can feel the relays and get it down to one-and or eliminate them as the cause of the noise.
View 1 RepliesA month I have heard this noise.
View My Video .....
I took this video while I shake rear seat area.
I had a friend drive my car while I was in the rear hatch area trying to find a bad rattle. I discovered that it is inside a large plastic panel just where the rear window wiper motor would be. I'm sure if I could safely remove this large panel, I could find out what the rattle is and quiet it.
How to remove this panel? Are there some hidden bolts or screws? I don't want to force-pry it off if that is not the proper way to remove it. I'd sure rather do this myself than go thru the dealer rigmarole.
I have a rattle coming from the back hatch area. I sat in the back seat while someone else drove and it sounds like it's coming from under the drivers side plastic side molding in the back hatch.
View 1 RepliesI just bought a 2006 (mk2) Santa Fe 2.2 CDX manual.Overall I'm pleased with the car but I have noticed over the past week of ownership a whining noise coming from under the floor area towards the front (I think). The noise only occurs around the 20mph mark ( no other speed) and is there whether I'm in gear or just coasting.The car has done 43000 (so not high mileage) has a full service history and only one owner prior to me. It does have a tow bar (which I wanted) just I case this may be relevant.
View 4 RepliesI just drove my new 2011 IV with sunroof/sloar option and leather home yesterday and I noticed a sporadic low pitch rattle coming from the rear inside area. I will remove everything from the back today and see if it goes away.
View 8 Replies2010 SF Limited, about 46,000 KM.
Heard a grinding noise coming from the back of the truck today. First thing I thought to look at was the rotors. They looked warped/wavy and were really hot. I'm worried that the pads are used up and its metal on metal, really looks like rotor damage. I'm confused by this...
1) I get a safety inspection done every time i'm in for service (6km), no service rep has ever warned me about my pads.
2) Aren't squealers supposed to warn the driver of low pads?
3) Pads wear out faster in the front than they do in the back. How could the back pads be used up already? The front looks fine.
So if my back calipers are seized, or the e-brake line froze, then i'm driving with the back brakes engaged full time. This should not have happened to a truck so young. Do I have a warranty case here?
I have a 2007 SF Ltd. About 6 months ago I noticed a tiny grinding noise coming from the front end. I took it to the place that installed the brakes and rotors and had them look at it. The said that they didn't see anything but the cleaned up the rotors and oiled the slide pins. That didn't seem to sold the problem, so I took it to the shop that does all my inspections and such. They mentioned that they didn't see anything and that if if was only first thing in the morning, it might be some very minor rust that is building and being worn off. Lately, the grinding noise has gotten much more consistent and loud. Both places said the pads looked almost new and other than the turning of the rotors, they looked fine. If it isn't the pads or the rotors, what could be causing the grinding noise? A friend of mine had the same issue but his dealer told him that his vehicle "just had noisy brakes". That doesn't see to be an acceptable answer.
View 3 Replies