2002 GLS 2.7. Locking system has been working fine. Today while trying to load groceries through the liftgate, it would not open. Unlocked if from the key entry in the liftgate and from the front door. You can hear the locks upen but when you pull the handle, the liftgate does not unlock.
View 1 Replies2013 SF Sport 2.0T ... This just started a couple of days ago. Worked fine until then. Neither the proximity key near the car and pressing the liftgate release, nor hitting the fob's "trunk open" button, NOR hitting the "unlock" button on the inside door panel will unlock the liftgate! If I hit the fob or press the outside release, the parking lights flash twice, but that's IT! No "unlock" and I can't open the lift gate. (I can't see them if I hit the inside the cabin button). All other locks work as they are supposed to.
View 3 RepliesMy daughters 02 santa fe's driver rear door will not open. The power door Can't figure out how to get it open so I can take the door panel off to find out what is wrong?
View 6 RepliesI am having problems with the rear hatch door not unlocking easily, have to lock and unlock multiple times before it releases. I have stripped and lubricated it and it works fine for a day. Also having issues with petrol cover release not working as well.
View 1 RepliesI have a 2001 santa fe. replaced the battery, alternator and I keep losing power while driving, radio goes on and off, a/c blows on and off, doors lock and unlock by themselves it holds a charge for about a week then breaks down again!
View 5 RepliesJust picked up our SFS 2.0t
does the power smart liftgate operate only when you walk away from the car. We were sitting in the car at home checking it out and my wife went out to test the smart liftgate..
Didn't work.
I have a sante fe which has problems (suspect multiple) with central locking , intermittently locking itself - very annoying - even driving down the road.
Drivers door controls for central locking unlock button does not unlock the doors - button just doesn't do anything. Lock button works fine. In addition window controls on drivers door dont work - only control that works is the one for the drivers door.
Final piece of the puzzle - the red light in the drivers door does not work either nor does the drivers door button panels light up. Starting to wonder is there a fuse or quirky power supply problem somewhere.
The power liftgate on my 2015 SF Sport will open just fine but as soon as it opens all the way, it begins to close. It doesn't always do this but recently it's happening more than not.
By the way, I do not have the liftgate set to open automatically, just power liftgate is checked on the settings.
When I use the remote to lock/unlock the doors the drivers side door won't activate . . . .unless it's really cold outside. The other 3 doors work year round.
Sounds weird but as the weather gets colder the lock on the drivers door will start to work. As winter turns to summer here in Illinois it starts to act up again. When it does work, it seems that unlocking works more consistently than locking.
Asked the dealer to have a look at it. They said it was a "weak actuator motor" and suggested to replace it. Sounds bogus to me.
I've tried to have a look down there but I'm afraid to take it all apart for fear I won't be able to get it all back together. Are there adjustments that can be made to the linkage or are lubrication points that might get this thing back working again . . . . . . all year long?
I also noticed that manually working the passenger side lock will lock the rear doors but won't lock the drivers door so it's not the remote. I never paid attention to whether manually working the driver side lock would lock the other doors but I think not since the buttons are right there on the drivers door.
I have a 2002 Ford explorer sport. The liftgate handle no longer works. I took the rear panel off thinking it was one of the rods' clips were broken off. As it turns out it is the little pivoting bolt that attaches to the handle. It wasn't broken, but just disconnected from the handle. I reconnected it and it worked for about 6 or 7 opens and then it popped out of the handle again. I reconnected it and this time it only stayed in for 2 opens. What do I do here? Is there a way to buy that little yellow clip that connects the pivot bolt to the handle? Do I have to get this from a dealer or can I get it from an autoparts store? Or, can I just fix it somehow and not have to buy anything? Also, what is it called so I can describe it without a 30 minute story and sounding like a layman?
View 1 RepliesI have a 2001 Escape XLT (3.0) and after getting some wonderful info here regarding my upper/lower intake problem, I thought I would ask about my weird liftgate problem. When I first got the Escape a few months ago, the liftgate opened fine, but it wouldn't lock at all. Then one day for no apparent reason, it stays locked no matter what I do. Some days it opens fine, other days it doesn't.
At some point I made a connection between the Window Lock button on the driver control panel being in lock/unlock mode determining if the liftgate would stay locked or not, but it doesn't always do the trick. So now I am at a loss as to what is causing this. Its very inconvenient to have to go over the back seats to load items into the trunk area, and its also a security issue if I cant get the liftgate to lock when I want it to. Is this still a liftgate actuator issue? or is it a wiring or fuse issue?
I have a 2002 Santa Fe 6cyl automatic GLS w/ 170k on it - great car - never a problem until about 20k miles ago, I started experiencing a shudder (like driving over a washboarded road) at 38-42 mph. If I accelerate quickly through this mph range (from 3rd to 4th gear), I can avoid it. Similarly, if I downshift back into 3rd, accelerate through and then upshift to 4th again at about 45mph, I can avoid it. It happens at a much lesser extent around 55-60mph. It has been to a reputable transmission shop that doesn't think its a tranny issue. Its been 4 days at a good mechanic and they can't find the problem. Its not throwing any codes and no other part of the vehicle seems to be affected. It has new tires/alignment less than 5k ago. I have suggested several things (ignition coil, torque converter, throttle control sensors) and they have checked these and more and don't find the problem.
View 9 RepliesThe best that I can describe what it feels like is at around 30 to 40 mph it shakes like your going over the side shoulder little pumps with both wheels. Only at those speeds... I all ready changed struts, tires, rack in pinion, upper and lower ball joints and tie rods. I have not change the tie rods that go up and down from struts to spindle its like 6" long or so can that be it? Or CV shaft?...
View 1 RepliesI have a 2002 Hyundai Santa Fe 2.7L FWD. The gas pedal feels sticking. I cleaned the air intake butterfly once, but it only works for 3 to 4 days. The gas pedal becomes sticking again. What's the problem it might be?
View 2 RepliesI have this weird problem where my cars blows air at all speeds but the AC and heater doesn't work, what it could be? Maybe blower motor relay?
View 1 RepliesI bought this santa fe for parts for my other identical santa. When you take it out of park into r everse drive 1st 2nd gear it will idle down 200 rpm. It had no codes till I revved it up and moved gears. Codes trans module shift selonoid b and c. It makes no noise or vibration. The torque converter does not grab what so ever if it is even moving. I want to fix it now that I see its better condition.
View 1 RepliesI did a valve job on a 2002 Santa re 2.7 after I got it done and all back together I don't have and spark at the coils all of them are dead I'm sure the coils did go bad form sitting.
View 2 RepliesMy 2002 Hyandai Sante Fee will not start up every time I put gas in it. The mechanics cannot find the problem. I had to change my starter two times in 6 months because I keep flooding the starter to start it up. What this might be?
View 12 RepliesJust bought a used but in pretty decent shape, 2002 Santa Fe, with 6 cylinder engine, 112K miles. I read the post about the vehicle that was hard to start after filling up - but this one is hard to start all the time - every time. Cranks fine, but once cranking, have to pump the gas pedal several times, and then it chugs just a second and then starts running. Slilght smell of gas if the hood is up, just after starting. Once running however, it runs perfectly on city and hwy. I have one mech that tells me "definitely the fuel pump" and another that tells me "definitely the purge valve" - this of course just from me describing the conditions, they have not actually seen it.
View 3 RepliesLast night my girlfriend and i were coming home in her Sante Fe and it was driving perfectly fine. The check engine light was on, but it occasionally comes on so i figured it was probably just a sensor.
When we got in the car this morning and i put it in drive (automatic trans) it was in sports mode (i'm assuming because a "1" popped up under the "D")
And now i cant figure out how to just put it into normal drive. We spilled a tiny amount of soda on the shifter last night, maybe 3/4 a cup at the most.
I have a 2002 Santa Fe V6 2.7 liter, FWD, 215,000+ miles. When it shifts from 2nd to 3rd the whole vehicle jerks. It does not do this on the other gears. I took it by a transmission place for a free scan and they said the transmission is fine.
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