Santa FE SM (2001-06) :: 2002 - Erratic Shifting And Poor Gas Millage
Jan 22, 2014
2002 Santa fe 2.7l v6 trouble code p1529 p0121 p0129 p0740...
I'm having erratic shifting problems and poor gas millage. The issue began approx 2 weeks ago and is always present. The issue is hard shifting between all the gears, jerking, high tac revving , difficulty shifting from 3rd to 4th gear and throttle at times unresponsive, and like i stated earlier poor gas mileage.
This past weekend I replaced the TPS, but the TPS codes are still present. One concern I have with the replacement is that I din't detach the negative cable, which I've recently learned should be done. So I'm not sure if by neglecting to remove the battery cable I may have damaged the new TPS.
Is it true that the negative battery cable should be removed with TPS replacement?
I've also read that a faulty TCM can cause these types of symptoms as well and one resolution may be to reset the TCM by removing both battery cables.
Any information on resetting the TCM? Also, in case I decide to replace the TCM, where the module is located ?
View 10 Replies
Advertisement
I have a 2004 Hyundai Santa Fe with a 2.7 4wd. It has started fluctuating the rpm's and is shifting erratically. I have seen on here that it is possibly the TPS. Does the same in manual or auto.
View 3 Replies
I have a 2001 Elantra GLS. The tranny shifts smooth. At around 40mph, it wants to shift into what I guess is overdrive. At that speed it is like it can't figure out where it wants to be and will down and upshift. Aside from that the tranny has no other problems.
View 5 Replies
I swapped my old 4.3 for one out of a 86 chevy blazer. the motor ran great in the blazer but after getting everything hooked up I get erratic idling and poor response from the car. throttle body is new as well, where to start?
View 3 Replies
Daughter's 2001 Santa Fe Delta V-6 2.5 engine, needed lower ball joints. Replaced the entire lower arms as more cost effective & actually a bit less work, for me anyway.
So While under it, see oil dripping down back of engine. Decided to replace valve cover gaskets. So I start to disconnect all the involved connectors, brackets etc to pull the Upper air intake to get to the rear cover.
While moving around, find most of the hoses & vac lines baked brittle and dried out and loose even tho clamped, so I replace all of those, plus the PCV valve., & the upper & lower radiator hoses as well. I only removed the upper 1/2 of the intake. I change out the cover gaskets, reassemble every thing, reconnect all the connectors. I noticed that some of the connectors could apparently be switched to other sensors, but since all the lines seemed so backed solid, they actually retained their positions to go back onto the proper sensors.(at least I hoped so & it seemed that way).
Anyway, every thing back together & tightened up, so I start it up & the idle is at about 3000 to 3400 RPMs. WTF? So I pop the throttle a couple of times by hand and finally it drops down to normal, then just as suddenly, it begins SEARCHING for lack of a better word, and starts racing upto 2600 rpm then drops to 1200 then up again then down again.
No check engine light or other idiot lights on. So I shut it down & check all the connections and hoses, nothing disconnected or left off or loose. I start it again, and it immediately begins running high & low searching for the idle again.
I shut it down again, and put the MacPro scanner on it and NO codes either set or pending. I next check the Haynes Manual I have for it, & the closest thing I can find to my problem says: Engine Lopes while idling or idles erratically 1) Vac leak 2) Leaking EGR 3)Air filt clogged 4) Fuel pump not delivering enough fuel 5) Leaking head gasket 6) Timing belt/sprockets worn 7) Camshaft lobes worn
By process of elimination, not #'s 2) According to service manual, there is no EGR valve on the 2.7, and I couldn't find one either, #3) Air Filter is new & clean, #4) ran fine before I worked on it & with the engine revving up to 34 or 3600 rpms, getting plenty of fuel, #5) Have had many head gasket problems over the years on many vehicles, never anything like this, and again, it ran fine until I worked on it #6 & 7) Doesn't seem to me to be a belt sprocket or cam shaft problem, as none of that was touched & again, it ran fine until I worked on it. This kind of narrows it down to #1, for me, but this is not like any vacuum leak I have ever come across in 45 years of auto repair. I have found & fixed many stumbling idles due to minor leaks but never had anything like this.
I next called a friend who owned an automotive machine shop & who I used to do work for, and now runs a highway dept garage for a municipality who has been a certified mechanic for many years, told him all the above & the only thing he could come up with was a MAJOR vacuum leak, like possibly the upper plenum gasket rolled up or got torn some how when I replaced the plenum and he suggested that I try a smoke test.
Scratching my head, I go back to the car, & break out my home made smoke machine that I use to successfully pinpoint leaks in emissions systems. I ran it for quite awhile, and found some light smoke leaking from somewhere down around the head, but due to the construction of the engine & no way to get the light to shine under the plenum, could only guess that he may have been right & that there may be a large leak down at the lower intake manifold to head gasket. Needless to say, I removed the upper plenum again, & this time also the manifold to heads, and the gaskets looked like they may possibly have leaked slightly between the ports, & quite possibly somewhere around the number 6 cylinder. So I cleaned the surfaces & am putting on the new gaskets that came in the set with the upper plenum to manifold gasket set.
My questions after relating all of this:
1) The 2 gaskets between the manifold & the cylinder heads have a blue stripe around all 3 cylinder port holes (appears to be some kind of sealant or factory applied silicone bead) & there are no markings of any kind anywhere on the gaskets, so do the blue stripes face DOWN to the heads or UP to the bottom of the intake manifold ?
2) Regardless of which way these stripes face, should I use any kind of high temp sealant around the port holes in addition to the gaskets, or just install them dry ?
3) Can the Idle Air Control on the Throttle Body Fail & affect the idle like the problem I am having, but NOT set a computer code ?
4) Can the Throttle Position Sensor affect the idle like this and NOT set a computer code?
5) I also found an electronic valve between the Air Intake & firewall, it is labeled PCV and has an OEM part number after that, I believe this to be the Purge Control Valve, which connects the TB to a plastic line which I believe runs down to the emissions canister under the vehicles front seats. Am I correct in thinking that even if this part had failed, it would have NOTHING to do with my erratic Idle problem, but would throw an emissions computer code?
View 1 Replies
My 2004 Santa fe speedometer is acting erratic almost all of the time , sometimes it works right. I have replaced on sensor that is easy to get too, right below the air filter and the other is below the cable, but the hard part is that in order to remove the 2 bolts holding the cable in place part of the frame or steering apparatus is partially blocking the bolt where a socket will not fit over...
View 2 Replies
I just picked up an 02 Hyundai elantra manual trans that needed a transmission. ran fine before I replaced transmission but after putting it all back together the car now how has an erratic idle. it will rev from 2-4000 rpms. I tried spraying for vacuum leaks idle didn't pick up any higher. replaced tps and iac and didn't make a difference. the only thing that did make any difference is unplugging map sensor. dropped idle to about 1200 rpm but ran rough. could this affect the idle.
View 1 Replies
I've been having some trouble with engine hesitation after driving for 15-20 minutes and poor MPG on my 2004 Hyundai Santa Fe 2.7L. I've been slowly running through some tests as I learn how to diagnose car troubles. I just ran a voltage test on my 4 O2 sensors using a bluetooth scan tool and the Torque Pro app. I ran the tests at idle after warming up the engine. To me, the upstream sensors seem fine but downstream sensors are not behaving like they should. Aren't the downstream sensors supposed to be relatively flat around .45 volts while the upstream sensors fluctuate steadily between .1 and .9?
B1S1:
B1S2:
B2S1:
B2S2:
View 13 Replies
My speedometer is erratic, not reading correctly, and the trans is not shifting right. It gets up to 3000 RPM and I have to back off the throttle to make it shift to 2nd. Then after driving a while everything starts working right. Next time I drive the truck it does the same thing.
View 2 Replies
I have a 2003 Ford Ranger, recently I had the heater core fail. One thing that happened during the heater core starting to leak is the "THEFT" light came on brighter than normal and no longer flashes when the truck is off. Also when the theft light started acting up the O/D OFF light came on and would not shut off. If I pushed the O/D off button the Theft light will go out and then come back on after the button is released.
After the heater core was replaced the lights stayed on as described above. Every once in a while the O/D off light would stay off but then come on later. No really problem besides the lights and O/D off button not working. Now today the O/D off light started flashing and the truck kept shifting in and out of O/D.
I'm leaning towards a speed sensor issue. I'm going to check and see if there is any codes tonight and will post my results. One other thing that happen with the heater core leaking is the "CHECK ENGINE" light came on because the O2 sensor was shorted out. Have the O2 sensor now and plan on replacing it while I trouble shoot the erratic shifting in and out of O/D.
View 14 Replies
My 2005 Santa Fe just started "slamming" while up shifting. It seems to be happening between 2nd and 3rd. The fluid is at the correct level and it isn't bad looking or smelling. I've seen postings that say to disconnect the battery to make the controller relearn...that didn't resolve the problem. I just don't want to put a bunch of money into a car that isn't worth it.
View 14 Replies
I've been having an issue with my Elantra GT where the car appears to be shifting poorly. The issue is very intermittent and usually only occurs just after starting to drive for about 4 to 5 minutes. But it never occurs consistently during every time I start driving the car. It is an Auto transmission but it feels as if a poor downshift is being back (car hesitates, then surges forward). From my research the transmission in the GT appears to be fairly reliable.
Background
2013 Elantra GT
KMs: 98500 km (high mileage commuter to work and back)
Note: Installed K&N Typhoon around 95,000 km, issue persisted before and after.
Initially started to feel the issue around 80,000 km. At this point I took it to the dealer and had the transmission flushed. The issue went away until about the 87,000 to 90,000 km mark and then started to return. Went back to the dealer and they said they performed an updated and couldn't replicate the issue during test drives. Currently my car is at 98,500 and this morning when driving to work the issue was particularly severe and the check engine light came on.
View 4 Replies
Wife's Santa Fe has an issue with it's shift points. Its a 2002 with 148K on it, never has had a CEL, fluid is changed every 60K. Over the past few months the time it takes to shift through the gears is getting longer. What I am describing is not an actual delay between the gears, but rather how long it is starting to take to get the tranny to even shift. Sort of like how a vehicle shifts through its gears when your at a stop, and put the pedal to the floor and just hold it. it makes no difference if your barely on the gas or half way down, still takes a way longer time that it should to shift. It is slightly worse when cold, but still does it when warm. Is there some kind of temp sensor or vacuum line or whatnot that would cause something like this? When it does finally shift, its normal, tight, no slippage or delay. truck runs great other than this.
View 7 Replies
Last summer my 04 SantaFe (140,000 mi, automatic) would feel like it was sticking and bumping when backing out of a parking space, then after shifting into Drive it would jerk and then make a huge thunking noise when applying the gas pedal. However, this would only happen sometimes, not all the time, and was not dependent upon the weather, surface, whether it had just been driven or not, etc. It would just happen when it happened. I brought it to the Hyundai garage and they replaced an axle and sensor. I continued having the same problem, brought it back to the garage and they replaced the viscous coupler.
I continued to experience the same problem after that, brought it back to the garage and they had the car for 10 days. I was told they had to get a mechanic in who was familiar working on 04 Santa Fe's and they determined the axle they replaced was bad, so they put in a new one. Everything ran great until I brought the car in early February for an "off balance ceiling fan" noise when accelerating. I brought the car to the Hyundai garage again and had the transfer case replaced.
Now the "clunking/grinding" is back when moving from R to D!!! So I brought it back to the garage again Monday and they said they cannot find anything wrong, and they are convinced it's just a symptom of the age and mileage of the car. However, it happened again today, but worse than ever before. This time it felt like it might not even move from R to D, and then it continued the grinding and bumping after accelerating and then the car felt "sluggish". I am convinced something is really wrong, although they assured me at the garage that the transmission is good, the axle, sensor and boot are all good etc. What else could it be?
View 1 Replies
I'm working at summer camp with limited access to my mechanic and information on what i can do. I went to move my car today and when I put the car into reverse the shift was very stiff it went, and moved in reverse the same happened when putting it into drive. The vehicle drove fine the few feet i needed to go but then was sticky shifting into park. I thought I had it in gear all the way but i couldn't turn the vehicle off. I finally got it to turn off (I'm honestly not sure how) and so i tried to start it again to see if it was just a fluke thing... it wasn't. my car would not start. the radio a/c and basic lights came on but the engine did not. there was no clicking noises of anything. a friend and i tried opening up the hood to see if anything looked out of place of did something wrong when trying to start it but we didn't see anything.
View 1 Replies
I am hearing a slight squeal along with a slight pause between first and second gear. It only happens if I accelerate harder than usual. The tranny fluid was flushed and filled about 10k ago and fluid level and is still good. It's a 2002 2.7l fwd with 223,256 miles.
View 3 Replies
I just got a 2004 hyundai santa fe 2.7l 2wd model with only 92k miles that I just bought off of Craigslist anyways when im on flat ground and cruising through town the transmission shifts perfectly. However when i went up an incline to get on the freeway it shifted hard around 40 mph but after i got back on flat ground again I got caught up in bumper to bumper traffic and once it cleared it shifted perfectly all the way to freeway speeds of approximately 70mph. Then after getting off the freeway and picking my friend up when i went to get back on the freeway (another incline) it shifted hard again around 40mph.
View 15 Replies
I have an '03 AWD, automatic Santa Fe and it started shifting really hard into 2nd gear when going uphill recently. It also seems to take a while to shift into 2nd from 1st, but it doesn't bang like it does when downshifting.
In other threads on this site is seems like either the throttle position sensor or shift solenoids may be responsible for this. What's causing it, and how to go about fixing it?
View 4 Replies
A few weeks ago, my transmission (automatic) started rumbling while shifting from 3rd to 4th and 4th to 5th gear. Shakes the whole car, like you're driving over a rumble strip. Only when the engine is hot. I read online that I should get my transmission flushed and replace the fluid, but should I be expecting the thing to go or is this a normal hiccup for the Santa Fe?
View 5 Replies
I hear a knock once in a while when starting my 2004 2.7 V6 Santa Fe and sometimes when shifting gears. I also hear it when going over rough rough, bumps, tracks etc... I'm thinking motor mounts 152k on the car.
My question would be how many mounts are there, exactly? I've seen three, but maybe another two for the transmission.
The front mount has some separation, but can't tell the others, as I haven't gone under the car with a flashlight just yet.
The majority of the knock seems to come from the driver's side. not sure if that narrows it down at all.
View 5 Replies
Recently my 2004 Santa Fe 2.7 AWD (~86k miles) has started to give a sort of hard thump when shifting from reverse into drive. It's fine going into any other gears and it shifts up and down normally. If I shift from reverse to neutral and then to drive it's fine.
I changed the transmission fluid when we first got the car at 40K miles with Hyundai Liquid Unobtanium SPiii fluid and again at 80k miles with Valvoline's SPiii offering. I just checked the transmission fluid level and it's within the normal range.
I can't tell if this is just drive-line slop or something else inside the tranny.
View 2 Replies
