Santa FE SM (2001-06) :: 2002 - Engine Stalling While Driving
Jan 5, 2011
Looking for a picture/location etc of where the crank position sensor is in the engine compartment? It seems to be a common issue where the engine stalls during driving and you pull over and are able to restart the vehicle and go on about your business.
My 02 has over 160k in miles and so am believing this part is going out according to what I've read here. My problem before was somehow the 2wire plug to the alternator worked it's way off and got that taken care of and so now while my wife is driving, it'll occasionally stall. Did a load test on the battery and it's good. Didn't check the charging system but not sure it needs to be tested.
By the way, have ran the diagnostics with the actron pocket obdII and no error codes came up and all looked good scrolling through everything.
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I have a 2005 2.0 litre petrol Santa Fe. I recently had it serviced and after this I started to have problems with it suddenly cutting out or stalling momentarily while driving. This happens randomly, sometimes at slow and other times at high speeds, often when accelerating but a couple of times in cruise. It only lasts a second or two and picks up immediately but can sometimes happen a few times in succession. It never happened before the service. The orange check light with the exhaust icon (Malfunction indicator Light?) comes on sometimes but I haven't noticed it all the time. This problem is getting worse, more frequent. I pushed the car a bit today in 4th gear up to about 3500 rpm and it happened quite badly, a few jerks in quick succession with the light coming on then back to normal for the rest of the trip.
I brought it back to the garage who did the service (not a main dealer, nor my usual mechanic) and they ran full diagnostics on it a couple of times. Nothing showed up, no error codes and nothing logged on the car's computer. They tested the emissions and found them to be perfect. They didn't change the fuel filter because it seems to be built into the petrol pump but did put something in the system that is supposed to clear out any deposits or whatever. Not sure what it's called but some sort of fuel additive. That was why I drove it hard today. They suggested doing that to try and clear out the system. Doesn't seem to have worked.
The bottom line is they don't know what's causing this so I'll have to take it to my own mechanic or else the main dealer. I'm wondering what could be the problem. From searching the forum it looks like the symptoms could be consistent with a failing CPS, an oxygen or throttle position sensor or a faulty ignition relay. I also think it could be to do with a clogged fuel filter, dirty petrol or perhaps water in the fuel tank; we've had tons of rain lately and the car is kept outside! Given it started happening after the service I wonder if they could have fitted something wrongly, used a faulty part, maybe a plug, or left something loose/disconnected. They have however gone through it thoroughly to try and find the fault so I imagine they would have turned up something like that.
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Trying to get my daughters Santa Fe going. Engine stalling. Idles very slow. 2001 model with 2.4 engine, auto trans.
Code P0102 is active. Cleared with scan tool and it comes right back.
Replaced the MAF and no change.
Checked the intake for leaks / vacuum leaks and none found.
Checked for debris up-stream from MAF and all is clear.
Air filter is clean and dry.
Checked harness plug and found the pin 5 has 4.6 volts on it from PCM. This is the signal wire from MAF to PCM. 4.6 volts is KOEO.
IS THIS NORMAL OR IS PCM BAD ??? All other pins / voltages on harness plug are normal.
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Well i was driving the other night home and all of the sudden my 02 2.7 Awd Santa Fe dies and wont start back up. Of all places it dies on a hill around a big turn in front of a grave yard. I mean it didn't make and funny sounds or anything just died. What the problem could be. I just replaced the cam sensor last week, I have read that it could be the crankshaft sensor or even timing belt. It does have higher miles 189k.
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So my wife was driving our 2002 santa fe 2.7L and it shutdown. I went with the scanner and saw one code, P0340. I towed it home, changed the Crank Position sensor, which really sucked. I put it all back together and still no start. Same code.
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Got an issues with my 02 Santa Fe. Shaky steering wheel at all speeds during straight driving more than in turns. 130k miles on the vehicle.
The tires are worn, and need replacing. No missing wheel weights that I saw. No issues with braking.
At slow speeds it feels like the front end is swaying back and forth. I am planning to have the tires replaced, but I feel that this is more than just the tires.
I suspect ball joints / tie rods are the culprit. Is there a good way to check these components from home verses going to a shop and having them diagnose the issue.
With ball joints / tie rods, I am confident that I can change them on my own.
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3.5L v6 173k. Engine shut down twice while driving. Started right up each time. From what I have seen in the forum it could be the Crankshaft Position Sensor. If it is the CPS, should I have the timing belt done at the same time?
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I drive a 2005 2.00 diesel Santa Fe which has developed problem when driving. The engine stops suddenly with no reason no Management info light appears i have the car checked and there are no fault codes present. Some time the burglar alarm lights comes on after the car stops it can take up to 15 mins to restart. This fault can happen 3 times a day and happens more often when driving at low speeds.
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2002 2.7L. Engine seized. Bought a replacement also from a 2002. Tried to start today and no spark. I just replaced the physically broken crank position sensor. That seemed like it would be an obvious and easy fix, but still no spark. The broken sensor had frayed/shorted wires. Could that have damaged the PCM /ECU? There is a 2003 Santa Fe at U-Pull-It that was running when it came in. Will the PCM from that work? I am running out of time. I have to have this running before I leave on a flight tomorrow night. I do have a code reader (if I can find it) but I can't imaging it would have any codes if it hasn't started since I had the battery out. Not sure how that works.
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I am struggling to find out any information regarding a droning noise coming from my engine. It generally does it when its just ticking over and disappears when accelerating.
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2002 hyundai santa fe GL2 4 Cyl Automatic ... I noticed that there is a super heavy motorcycle-ish loud noise from my engine when I put it in drive. When it's idle or in reverse or neutral the problem does not occur. but then when I switch it to drive, uber loud noise...which gets louder when I step on the gas.
What has been done so far - replaced spark plugs, ignition coils and plug wires so far...also changed the oil, no fix.
No check engine light at all.....however the battery did die due to someone leaving a light on for days So I am unable to get any code readings.
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Those are the codes I'm getting. P0340, P1166 and P1167
Here's the story. Engine running flat under load. Easy acceleration is ok, but merging onto the turnpike causes a noticeable loss of power. Replaced the cam sensor, cleared the codes, ran ok for a day. Same codes came back, same flat performance.
Returned the cam sensor with another new one to make sure it wasn't a dud out of the box. Advance Auto Parts is awesome - replaced it no questions asked.
Installed the new cam sensor, cleared the codes. Ran great for a day, then the same symptoms came back, with the same codes. I'm thinking it might be the ECU? If it is, how expensive are they? And do they have to be programmed by the dealer?
This is a 2002 Santa Fe 2.7l automatic with around 147k miles on it.
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Its a 2002 Santa Fe 2.0 turbo diesel. When driving the engine will suddenly cut out. Its as though the ignition has been turned off, there is no hesitation or warning, it just shuts down.
This is what has been done so far: New high pressure fuel pump fitted by main dealer in June. My mechanic has fitted a new high pressure fuel sensor, new low pressure fuel pump (at rear by fuel tank), changed relays around, checked all fuel injectors (found in good condition) and checked various connection plugs and wiring. At motorway speeds the engine will not cut, its only at lower speeds. When it cuts the EML comes on with a 'Fuel Pressure Fault' code. Sometimes the light doesn't come on. Sometimes the light comes on but will go out the next day. When the engine cuts out you have to wait 20 seconds before it will re-start. If you try to start before this the engine will only turn over without firing. The car has only done 79000 miles. The main dealer gave up and said they don't know where the fault is because the code is not specific enough.
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My 2002 Hyundai Santa Fe 2.7L V6 AWD failed to start a week ago. After towing to my neighborhood repair shop, it was diagnosed as a faulty ECM based on code P560 (System Voltage Problem). They replaced the ECM (along with relay) with a used one with the exact same part#. After that, the car was started and run OK but Check Engine Light stays on all the time. The codes displayed are:
P1529 TCU MIL Request Signal
P0501 VSS Range Performance
I was told that this is caused by the fact that each ECM is VIN/PIN locked. The replacing ECM was used in another car before and was locked with a different VIN thus cannot communicate with some components of the current car.
My questions are:
Can this used ECM be unlocked and relocked with a new VIN/PIN? If so, does it require the previous VIN/PIN to unlock? Most likely the previous VIN/PIN is no longer available.
Does this service require the presence of the car or can it be done with the ECM alone? Do keys need to be re-registered? The car starts fine currently.
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I've been having some trouble with engine hesitation after driving for 15-20 minutes and poor MPG on my 2004 Hyundai Santa Fe 2.7L. I've been slowly running through some tests as I learn how to diagnose car troubles. I just ran a voltage test on my 4 O2 sensors using a bluetooth scan tool and the Torque Pro app. I ran the tests at idle after warming up the engine. To me, the upstream sensors seem fine but downstream sensors are not behaving like they should. Aren't the downstream sensors supposed to be relatively flat around .45 volts while the upstream sensors fluctuate steadily between .1 and .9?
B1S1:
B1S2:
B2S1:
B2S2:
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Our santa fe 2008 diesel randomly stalls. Most of the time the stall happens after at least 15mins of driving but I am not sure if its just a coincidence. It only happens when the car is stopped. When it happens, i put the car in park, turn off AC, then turn the car back on. It starts right up but is a bit rumbling like it will stall again. When i press the accelerator there is no response.
If I turn on the AC or turn the wheels, it dies. If i put it in drive or reverse it also dies. That happens around 3-5 times, then after that, everything is good again. Accelerator responds normally, car doesn't stall. Its driving me crazy! Whats worse is sometimes it doesn't occur for 1month! Then all of a sudden it stalls again. Bought the car 2nd hand and since january it died around 8-10 times.
I brought it to a reputable mechanic and they checked the fuel system. Replaced the fuel filter, fuel sensor. They even tried a different pump and sanction valve and it still didn't fix it. They kinda concluded that its not in the fuel system already, but they are at a loss. Its very hard to trigger since we don't know what really causes the stalling. All we know is that it only occurred when the car is stopped.
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My wife's car is throwing at p0306 code. I have changed the park plugs and the check engine lights comes on after 5-10 minute of driving and gives the same code. Can I move the spark plug wire to another ignition coil bank to test the coil? The picture shows the current plug locations on the ignition pack. Is there any certain order they need to be in or can I just swap 6 and 5 since they are the closest together?
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I have a 2002 Jeep Grand Cherokee with 207,000 miles that has recently begun stalling while driving. Typically stalls at rest or when coming to a stop, and for a time it would re-start without issue. More recently it won't start readily after stalling, but will eventually start with enough key-turning persistsence. The check engine light comes on only after stalling and not restarting (but was not on previously), and often shuts off after a few miles of smooth running. I took it to my local mechanic who ran the computer codes and reported a malfunctioning cam shaft position sensor (i question if this was the casuality of other problem), which they thought was the source of the stalling, but after replacement it is stalling more than ever. It seems like the local mechanic group won't diagnose anything in this high mile Jeep without a computer code and I am reluctant to bring it back.
What is the cause of the stalling / starting issue? I may be way off but was concerned about a clogged fuel filter or fuel injection problems.
Vehicle Details : 2002 Jeep Grand Cherokee Laredo 4.0L inline 6 207,000 miles. Regular maintenance, most miles highway (2 owners) All parts stock
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I drive a 2004 Hyundai Santa Fe V6 2.7L with a whopping 274,3xx miles on it. I've had it for about 6 years and it has been a great car for the most part. The water pump was replaced a couple years ago and the battery was replaced a year ago.
It started having issues a few months ago. It started out having difficulty starting, and shortly after it would start it would rev up as if you were accelerating even if my foot was on the brake. I took it to the shop and they checked the head gaskets, battery, transmission, alternator (I think?). Came up with the idea that it may be the air intake valve. It's the thing that controls how much the blade opens when you press on the accelerator. Well they took it out and said it was the dirtiest one they had ever seen. They cleaned it, because no one in our area had a replacement, and my car seemed to be acting better. It would still rev occasionally and would have trouble starting but not nearly as often as before.
Fast forward to now (a month later) and my car is revving higher and for longer than it ever has and has started stalling, and not starting more frequently. It usually stalls after it has been revving when it cant release or go forward (ex. when applying the brake or while in park.)
What the heck is wrong with this thing?? No one seems to be able to figure it out and it it so frustrating, not to mention dangerous! It stalled in the middle of me making a turn today so I was literally sitting in the middle of oncoming traffic with a dead car.
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Had the following problems with my 2009 Santa Fe: Audio system would randomly reset when playing MP3 from USB drive, Headlights would dim/flicker when bakes depressed, LED lights on dash would flicker, random stalling while driving. Finally just died and would not start. The Hazard lights would not work only a bit of buzzing from the relay. Checked Battery, connectors, etc. All looked good. Measured voltage at fusebox (inside) and found it dropped from 12v to 4v when I put the hazard switch on. Showed there was a connection problem of some kind.
Finally used a jumper cable from the battery negative terminal to an ground point inside the cabin. Bingo that fixed all the problems, car started, lights were good, hazards worked. As a permanent fix I ran a wire from where the negative terminal of the battery connects to the frame, then drilled a hole in the firewall and ran the wire into the cabin. Connected the wire to a ground point in the cabin. Used a heavy gauge stranded wire. you can try this out with lamp cord as a temporary fix, but I'd use something heavier for a permanent fix. All problems have gone. No flickering, no stalling... This may be a problem on other models from what I've read in some forums (unexplained stalling - check the grounding in the cabin..).
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Bought a 2006 2.4L Sante Fe a few months ago. Had a couple incidents of it jerking after descending the same hill in our neighbourhood. Have a 6 month warranty so brought it to mechanic. All their "scans" were showing everything working so they guessed at replacing the fuel pump and filter. A week later did the same thing but this time it stalled out and I had to jump start to get it back to garage. My wife scanned the internet and noticed other similar complaints. The crankshaft position sensor seemed to come up as being replaced in these incidences, and apparently the "scan" will not show it as failed if it is still somewhat operable. Based on that, we told the garage to replace it as they literally could not figure out what was wrong with the car, having driven it over several days for it to repeat the jerking and stalling we had experienced. It has only been a few days so here's hoping that was the answer.......
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