Santa FE SM (2001-06) :: 2002 - Continuous Knocking Noise When Accelerate
Mar 2, 2012
I have a 2002 Santa Fe, 2.4, 2WD, stick shift with 125,000 miles on it. The problem started 9 months ago, when I was driving up-hill above 45 or 50 mph that continuous knocking noise came up from the rear-underneath the car, in order to stop it I had to reduce the speed, the problem has been there since then, but now is getting worse due to the noise comes up even driving on the street, when I'm gunning the car and shift to the next gear the noise comes up for 1 second, meanwhile I'm pressing the clutch pedal and then disappears, It's really weird because looks like it is related to the engine but the noise is in the rear.
I forgot to tell that the noise is not metallic, sounds like plastic or rubber, besides I already replaced the rear shock absorbers, inspected the exhaust to see any sign like touching the body of the car and checked all around the tires to see any sign of wear out and nothing, everything looks good.
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I have a 2002 v6 petrol Santa Fe which developed a rather loud knocking from the bottom end over the weekend.
To cut a long storey short I have had the best use from this car for a long time and she has served me well so rather than patching her up I have decided to replace her with something new and less guzzley :-)
The reason I have got in touch is because I'm not sure whether to break her or sell as is. I have the space and room to break the car up but understand it will take an age to sell the parts and don't know if this is more likely to raise more cash than just selling the car as is with the fault.
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2004 Santa Fe, 2.7 L V6. The oil was changed approx 5-7k miles ago (not really sure as I bought it from someone else) and I just changed it today. There's a new knocking noise in the engine. I used normal castrol GTX oil, 5w-30.
I drove it about 20 miles and the noise is still being made, so it's not a circulation problem.
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Ok I changed the 2 front struts on my Santa Fe. And the strut mounts. Rides alot better and no shimmy in the wheel but I noticed a knocking noise when turning the wheel sharp. What I have come to find out the top of the spring it turning the whole cup or top hat it sits in. I put the cup in the right spot because there is a flat spot on the thread of the the strut.
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I'm using the 2011 Santa Fe.Got few question to ask.
1.When start to move there is a thump noise and sometimes it feel like going over something from the rear area.Happen only when start to move.
2.Using the keyless remote. Sometimes push the rear trunk button to lock and arm the car there but will be a beep sound continuously. Sometimes the rear trunk button are unable to open or arm the alarm system.
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About 3 weeks after an oil change, my 01 Ford Ranger started knocking and smoking when I accelerated up hills. I checked the oil levels to find that it was completely empty. Refilled the oil, but the problem persisted. Tried gas additive--nothing. Finally limped into the Ford dealership where they kept my car for 6 weeks trying to figure out what the problem was. After new plugs, wires, MAF sensor, coil, and PCM the problem seemed to be fixed...mostly. Knocking and smoking eventually stopped until I checked the oil levels again and it was empty. Added oil which started the symptoms all over again. Mechanic ruled out blown gasket. Claims knocking and smoking are unrelated (even though they happen at the same time 100% of the time). Smoke is white. Knocking (at its worst) sounds like a bolt rattling around in engine. Car does not lose power, and when I gun the engine it seems to go away. Only happens going up hills (of which Tennessee has plenty of).
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This started recently and it's definitely out of the norm... When I activate my signal and it switches off, i still hear the ticking but no lights are flashing. it'll go on for about a few sec then shut off, sometimes comes on even when i didn't activate my blinkers. Also when i start my car i feel a vibration from under my feet. Sounds like a knocking noise when i accelerate/turn. But then goes away after about 20 seconds of driving.
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I am struggling to find out any information regarding a droning noise coming from my engine. It generally does it when its just ticking over and disappears when accelerating.
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2002 hyundai santa fe GL2 4 Cyl Automatic ... I noticed that there is a super heavy motorcycle-ish loud noise from my engine when I put it in drive. When it's idle or in reverse or neutral the problem does not occur. but then when I switch it to drive, uber loud noise...which gets louder when I step on the gas.
What has been done so far - replaced spark plugs, ignition coils and plug wires so far...also changed the oil, no fix.
No check engine light at all.....however the battery did die due to someone leaving a light on for days So I am unable to get any code readings.
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This has begun in the last few weeks on my '02 SF (which only has a couple of months left until it is retired )....
If I'm going anywhere between about 90-110 KM, I'll hear an odd high pitched whine. It sounds almost like microphone feedback, and I'm having a really hard time trying to find out where the sound is coming from. It is very subtle and comes and goes.
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I just installed a new timing belt, balance belt, idler, and both tensioner pulleys but am getting a little whine. I adjusted the balance belt but the noise does not change. No other belts or items are hooked up yet this was a dry run. Car seems to run fine and idles well. The hydraulic unit seems to be working fine and it's a OEM Hyundai piece.
Anything common I can look for that should stand out? 2002 Santa Fe 2.4L
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My Dads 92 Volvo's engine is making a knocking noise and I'm wondering what the possible causes are. He doesn't take that great care of it but it didn't over heat or anything. It sounds like it is making a loud knocking or clicking noise directly from the engine when you accelerate. It still runs but definitely has a lack of power.
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I'm driving a 2002 Hyundai Santa Fe with 83,000 miles on it.
Had it in the shop (dealer) a couple of weeks back for some work on the transmission. While there, I had the dealer perform the work for Recall 090 (corrosion of rear trailing arm). Since that time, there has been a clicking noise coming from what I believe to be the right rear wheel (it is definitely coming from the right [passenger] side). The noise sounds like metal rubbing up against metal, for lack of a better description. The noise is directly correlated to wheel rotation... the faster I drive the vehicle, the more frequently it occurs; the slower I drive, the less frequently it occurs.
The noise is very noticeable, and I am certain that it did not exist prior to my latest visit to the dealer. I am considering taking the vehicle to an independent mechanic this time, as the dealer repeatedly tells me that they aren't to blame, or I end up leaving the dealership with more problems than I arrived with.
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Engine light (amber color) came on but went off a few days ago. Today I made a short trip and the light came on and then the car suddenly stalled. It did not die totally, but rather it seemed to be in a high idle and wouldn't rev up when I pushed on the gas. Letting off the brake the car would go about 20 mph but no acceleration, more like I'm coasting along oh so slowly.
Now I'm stuck at work with a 20 mile trip ahead of me. Is there some kind of trick to reset something to get it running again or am I stuck? What this could be? Won't be able to get the codes read until I can get it home, which hopefully won't involve a long tow.
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Started getting a knocking in the front end when you hit small pot holes. I was wondering would it be strut mounts or something else ?
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My daughter asked me to look at & listen to a horrible grinding noise coming from the upper right area of her Santa Fe's rear hatch. There was a plastic grinding noise coming from THIS:
It's the lock actuator for the rear hatch.
Sometimes it works.
Sometimes it doesn't.
Sometimes it makes that horrible plastic grinding noise.
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This has happened a few times when the car jerks, check engine light comes on and seemingly goes into limp mode. Cannot engage 4 wd either. I leave the car for while then come back and the engine light is off and the car works normally.
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My 2004 Santy 3.5L (I am the original owner) just turned 91.4K miles and all of a sudden a VERY LOUD Engine Knocking sound came from the top of the engine. I have been changing my own oil since new with synthetic Mobil 1 and a new filter every time, and I never had any issues. I changed it last week at 90K prior a Spring Break trip (1350 miles).
Then yesterday after I let her rest for 1 day, I took the kids to school and within 10 miles of my house the ticking HARD loud noise started happening. I pulled over near a shop (within 1 block of where the noise started) and they said...don't drive it it sounds like a lifter collapsed, or a rod bearing or something big...
I had her towed to the dealer and the first thing they told me is to gather all the oil change receipts and a "manifesto" and they asked me how often I change the oil... I said every 5K miles. I change my own oil and have done since day 1.
BTW, Timing Belt, Water Pump, tensioners, belts, coolant, spark plugs and coils were changed last year at 77K miles.
The car should still be covered under the 10year/100K Powertrain and I believe they are trying to build a case so Hyundai can cover this or not...
They still need to tell me what's wrong... I change my own oil so I don't have receipts for "oil changes" and I have a log of when oil was changed...
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I have a 2009 AWD Santa Fe with a little over 43K miles. Over the past few months it's developed a knocking noise that is most audible from the front drivers side area. The knocking speeds up or slows according to the car's speed, and appears somewhat louder when the steering wheel is turned. My initial suspicion from my surfing here is either a CV joint or wheel bearing.
I took it to the dealer that sold it to me and am getting increasingly frustrated with their work. The first irritation was yesterday when the service advisor called to say the problem was corroded rear rotors and brake pads; both wear items not covered under warranty. Though skeptical (since I was hearing the noise coming from up front, not from the back) I authorized the $300+ for turning the rotors, replacing brake pads and flushing the brake system.
When I showed up to retrieve the car I was told it'd been test driven and the problem was fixed. I asked the tech specifically whether he'd checked the CV joints and he assured me he had and they were fine. Upon driving away it was immediately obvious the knock was still there. Back to the dealer. I had the tech drive it with me in the passenger seat. He acknowledged he could now heard the knocking, but claimed he previously couldn't hear it over the horrible loud squealing from my rusted rotors; nor had he heard it on his alleged post-fix test drive. The problem with that is I've never heard this claimed horrible loud squealing, nor has my girlfriend, nor have any other regular passengers.
Back at the dealership the situation escalated when the service advisor, in defense of his tech, also claimed the horrible squealing rotors had drowned out any other noises. The problem with that is he admitted he'd not come along on any of the previous claimed test rides, and claimed to have heard the horrible squealing rotors only while the car was in the shop and/or up on the lift while the tech was turning a rear wheel by hand. Err, if the car was not driven any for distance or speed, of course you wouldn't have heard any knocking up front.
Yesterday evening I got a call from the shop advising the problem had now been diagnosed as a bad wheel bearing, front driver's side. I was assured it'd be fixed and ready this afternoon. All well and good. I showed up this afternoon and the service advisor stated the car was just getting buttoned up and we're going to test drive it. Fine, I'd like to come along on the test drive I said. He agreed, asked me to sit in the waiting room. In a few short minutes though - not long enough IMO - he came back out to advise the tech had just test driven the car (without me?!) and the knock is still there.
As of this writing I have no info from them as to what it might be. I left the car with them and asked the service advisor to have the tech(s) double check the CV joints. He got huffy with me and declared that if if the tech said he'd check them, there's no need to do so again. At this point I'm not sure whether I can trust this dealers' service department. I don't think the service advisor is being honest with me - I think he's been caught in a minor fib re: test riding and is compounding the situation by sticking with it.
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This evening, after not driving my car for a couple of days, I tried to start it and got the check engine light, triangle with exclamation point, and car symbol with exclamation point. It seemed to start, then shuddered and stalled. I was able to get it going by immediately putting it in drive and driving before it had a chance to stall. Then while driving, stepping on the accelerator did nothing- like no gas was getting through yet the car was still moving ahead. I quickly returned home and checked Prius Chat for advice.
I checked the throttle body, which was not stuck, but did see a tiny pool of oil in the bottom. I then started it in the driveway and the tiny pool of oil disappeared and it stayed running. I then took it out for another drive and it ran fine and accelerated normally.
All the warning lights are still on though, and I will try and get the codes read tomorrow or the next day.
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2009 Santa Fe only 40500 miles ... Should I Be concerned about the noise it has done this since I bought it in 2010 ...
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