Santa FE SM (2001-06) :: 2002 - Brake Pedal Has Bad Judder On It When Braking
Sep 30, 2011
I have a santa fe 2002 diesel the abs lights stop on all the time the brake pedal has a bad judder on it when braking. I have taken the fuses out and it will still judder. The only thing that is when i disconnect each sensor the red brake light stops on but not with the osf front sensor. All the rings look ok but when i had a problem with 1 of them the abs light would go out then return on...
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Here's the short of it. 3rd time in a year the brakes on my 2005 SF (177K miles, 2.7L) have gone out.
The brake pedal is very soft and goes to the floor before braking occurs. Typical signs of a bad master cylinder.
The first time was a year ago. I bought a re-manufactured master cylinder, change it and bled the brakes. Worked like a champ and lasted 10 months.
To months ago same exact symptoms. I assume it was a bad re-man part. It's under warranty, not big deal. I do warranty exchange, bleed system, brakes return. All is good.
Less then 3 weeks later, brakes gone, same symptoms! This time I spend the difference and get a brand new OEM cylinder with reservoir. Replace, bleed, problem fixed. Brakes go out in less than a week.
I'm not leaking anywhere. Reservoir is to corect level. ABS light is NOT on. No chattering in brakes. Braking is smooth both when power brakes work and when not. No visible damage to calipers. I'm 99% sure there is no air in the system, but I'm going to try bleeding again. I have not put it up on a lift to yet to check all the lines.
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Occasionally, when braking at lower speeds (i.e. coming to junction) I get feedback through the pedal almost as if the ABS has kicked in....braking is not very effective when it happens. I can also hear a pump type noise going. If I lift my foot and re-apply it clears and normal braking returns. In fact, sometimes I can hear the pump noise going even before I brake....always at low speed (sub 15-20 mph) doesn't happen when driving at higher speeds.
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My brake pedal goes almost to the floor when I'm braking.I replaced the rotors, pads, shoes, power booster and the master cylinder 3 times.Had it bled twice and I still have a soft pedal, but now it firms up a bit as I pump the brakes.
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I have a 2003 Prius that I have had about 4 years. It has under 80,000 miles on it and I have the Ecrostech Scanner which I have had for about 3 years. For the time I have had the Ecrostech I have noticed times when the regenerative braking was not working when I would depress the brake pedal. I understand the regen does not work from about 7 mph and below but my system often does not work even when it is above that speed. I have not been able to force it into regen. It seems to have a mind of its own as in perhaps a faulty ecu.
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I have a 2002 Hyundai Santa Fe 2.7L FWD. The gas pedal feels sticking. I cleaned the air intake butterfly once, but it only works for 3 to 4 days. The gas pedal becomes sticking again. What's the problem it might be?
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I have a 2005 Santa Fe 2.7 V6.
For over a month I have had a soft brake pedal. For those that may not know what that is, I push my brake pedal down 3/4 of the way, and I'll finally feel the brakes catch; however, I cannot stop quickly. I have had to use the Sports Mode to slow down my car many times.
I brought it to my local mechanic and he has done the following:
1) he thought it might have been the master cylinder, so he replaced it. he checked the old master cylinder and found nothing wrong.
2) bled the brake system a couple of times, but it still came back
3) brought my car to the local dealer to drain the ABS system. The problem still came back.
I waited over an hour as the dealership's service department checked out the car. Someone finally came to me and said they checked the lines and they are not leaking, so it has to be the master cylinder. I told the guy that it's a brand new cylinder, and when the mechanic looked at the old one, he said there was nothing wrong with it. All he could say was it's not the lines, it's the cylinder. If I had the problem before & after the master cylinder was replaced, & nothing was wrong with the original master cylinder, how is it the master cylinder?
I called my local mechanic on my way home from the dealership and told him what happened. He said he was going to do some research, mentioned something about replacing something with the ABS and he would call me today.
I searched the forums for brake issues and saw something about cracked ABS rings. Could that be an issue? Could it be something else?
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Soft Pedal. 2004 Santa Fe, front wheel drive 4cyl, 2.4l
When I first owned this Santa Fe the brake pedal was high and had lots of stopping power, over the last few years I noticed the pedal was getting lower. I have replaced everything needed thus far including pads, rotors and everything has recently been serviced front/rear/emergency brake/ calipers and still a soft pedal. Had the guys in our recon shop replace master cylinder and bleed the lines a few times with a full week in between bleeding to ensure there was no air in the lines. The mechanics are stumped but I'm wondering if we missed something...... I still can stop no problem but there is no grab in brakes until pedal is half way down to the floor or worse.
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I've been noticing an odd noise in the brake pedal in our '03 Santa Fe. I don't hear it all the time (almost never on the highway), but especially hear it in stop-and-go traffic. It's sort of a whirr, a "RRrrr". I've googled and watched YT videos and it's definitely not a hissing sound or a grinding sound, nor do I notice any difference in the brakes' responsiveness.
I'm apprehensive of taking it to the dealer for service because I only plan to have this vehicle for at most three more weeks. Have only held onto it this long because we couldn't afford to replace it until we sold our house-- which we've just done, and are about to move to a city about an hour away on 7/5. We'll trade in the car within a couple of weeks of moving.
The noise is definitely from the pedal and isn't anything like squeaking brake pads (I currently live in the DC metro area, so squeaky brakes become very familiar with all the stop-start traffic!). The videos I've found that point to a booster problem have a decided hiss, and it's not that either. Don't want to be unsafe in the time we've got left, but also don't want to throw another thousand bucks (every time something breaks in that darn thing, it always seems like it's about $800) into a car we won't have in a month's time.
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I have a 2004 Santa Fe 3.5L 4WD. It's been running rough on occasion for quite a while now, but it's only been an occasional thing. I replaced the front passenger side axle and went for a test drive and the vehicle was barely running. I put the throttle to the floor and it does nothing more than idle. I barely made it home and am afraid to pull it out of the drive. I started it up this morning and it seemed to be idling just fine. I pushed the brake to put it in gear and it started stumbling. When I put it in gear, same thing, pedal not doing hardly anything.
The check engine light did come on and I had a buddy bring down a scanner to check it. I don't know if these are Hyundai specific codes or not, but here's what he pulled: P1110, P2127, P1173, and P1192. I'm thinking throttle position sensor, but am unsure. I've put a lot of time and money into this vehicle lately. I've spent some money and a lot of time trying to figure out why it was showing abs and traction control lights. Turned out to be the exciter ring on the axle was broke.
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When I brake slow to stop or go slow round corner brake pedal judders with a brake judder noise I have read it could be cv axle or the ring tone or sensor cable.
I have replaced front discs and pads because I thought it was that but not then abs light came on and went back off and and one time stayed for awhile.
Santa Fe 05 Diesel 48000 on clock
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I have a 2000 Mitsubishi Mirage. I've been having issues with judder. I first mentioned it to a mechanic late last spring, but they said the rotors and pads were fine, so I let it be, and the judder got gradually worse, until I brought it in again a couple weeks ago and got new front rotors (the rotors were warped at that point, and barely within spec). But as I left the mechanic's, I realized that the judder had not gone away, it had just changed, and become more pronounced. (Yes, I should have gone right back in to the mechanic, but I was peeved that the problem was still there, and sleep deprived from working 3rd shift.)
The judder is most noticeable when I am stopping in town. The car behaves as if I'm stomping on the brake repeatedly; the brakes are grabbing and releasing, grabbing and releasing. Until the past week, this has meant that my head bobs front and back a bit as I stop. In the past week though, it feels like there is a tiny bit of side-to-side movement developing, too. The steering wheel does not shake, and I can't feel anything unusual in the pedal.(Also, if it matters, the tires were rotated about a week before the rotors were replaced.)
What could the issue be here? Should I take it back to the shop and ask them to undo and redo the lug nuts by hand, since I've read that overtightening, or tightening in the wrong order, could be an issue? Should I ask them if they test run-out when they install rotors? Should I go to a different mechanic? The mechanic I went to is a local large operation with a decent reputation, but... I've gotten some conflicting information from them, depending on who I talk to. Also, should the pads have been replaced along with the rotors? They're at around 70%.
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A friend brought me a car with the issue that the brake pedal sinks to the floor when braking. She said it was never low on fluid so I replaced the master cylinder and bled all of the lines with a friend pumping the pedal. The pedal would still sink to the floor. I tried vacuum bleeding the brakes and found that the front left consistently had large bubbles.
I Teflon taped the fitting on the calliper and the bleed screw which improved the problem but didn't fix it. I then replaced the calliper. The front left calliper still won't bleed and the brake pedal still goes to the floor. When I bleed it the regular way, the fluid comes out of the bleeder like it bled nicely. Neither of the rubber hoses that connect to the calliper have any visible damage. I had a friend pump the brakes while looking at the hoses and their is no bulge or swelling in them. Could the ABS need to be bled?
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Ever since I took my 18" wheels off for the winter and put the stock VW 16's with snow tires I have on multiple occasions almost rear ended the car in front of me when I experienced what seemed like a loss of brake pressure. The brake pedal did not feel spongy or anything but often in this situation the abs brakes seem to kick in for no reason. I feel a slight pulsation in the brake pedal which I can only assume is an activation of abs. I'm wondering if this slight pulsation (1 second duration ) is causing my brakes to be less effective. The pavement has been completely dry and I was not traveling fast enough, nor pressing the brakes hard enough to cause the tires to lock and trip the abs.
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Just bought this van used last fall. Had an occasion, a few months ago, to brake quite hard (to avoid hitting a bird in the road--yeah, I know...) and felt a clattering vibration/noise in my brake pedal. It's happened a few times since then. Is this a problem that needs to be looked at or a normal reaction to quick, hard braking? (Braking noise in 2008 Dodge Grand Caravan)
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I just got my car back from discount tire. Every time I accelerate above about 45 mph the traction light goes off Also, There is a shimmy in the brake pedal under braking.
NOW: there is ONE tire that is SMALLER than the rest that they put on or something. It is a different tire, same company, but obviously a bit smaller. Now, they told me it would be fine, despite my better judgement that It would preform weird as well as look slightly gimp. the tire went from driver rear to passenger front, and I'm willing to bet that is the cause of both problems. What should I do?
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I have a 2.2 CRDI Manual - new 2010 model - bought from new approx 16 months ago. Live in UK. Quite a few problems, which is a shame as I love the car. Tonight's question is about the clutch. Became increasingly difficult/impossible to get into 1st when cold, and wasn't clearing so car would slightly jolt forwards. Dealer had it in and replaced ?Slave cylinder. No better. Went in yet again for a week. This time ?replaced Clutch ?wheel (staff not that communicative, or apologetic, and ps had to also replace both front drive shafts too as clicking ++). Now at least the car is easier to get into gear, but pedal rather sponge like and significant "judder" when setting off in 1st at lowish revs, and worse when reverses. Surely this can't be normal - it's a new car after all. Back to the dealer later in the week, but what do I do if I become unhappy with the dealer?
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I have a 2001 Ford Ranger 4x4 that developed an odd problem almost two years ago that no mechanic I've taken it to has been able to find and fix, and I and my more car-savvy friends haven't had any luck with either.
About maybe 50% of the time when I sharply turn left (only left, never right) the brake pedal goes "soft" and the vehicle's braking power drops dramatically (but not entirely). Because of the sharp angle required to make this happen, and the low speeds I have to be moving at to even handle that sharp of a turn with this vehicle, this has only ever happened when I pull into a parking spot, and the vehicle still manages to come to a complete stop safely before being in danger of hitting anything. It never ever happens at any other time, and brakes like a champ normally.
I've had numerous other issues with the brakes in this vehicle in the last two years, all of which I've fixed. This one eludes me and every mechanic I've taken it to, though. I've replaced both calipers, both rotors, the brake pads, bled all four brake lines, and had the ABS control unit and ABS motor replaced.
At the time the issue first appeared, I had two damaged calipers caused by shoddy brake pads disintegrating on me (almost new, barely worn, but covered in pockmarks, looked like a Michigan road) and clogging up the calipers. That caused the vehicle to lurch to a halt with screeching tires if I so much as barely tapped the brake pedal. Replacing the calipers and brake pads fixed that issue, but did not fix the soft pedal issue when turning left. I ended up with the same screeching sudden stop problem recently when the ABS module went bad, replacing it fixed that, the brake pads and calipers are still in good condition, and replacing the ABS did not fix the soft pedal issue.
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My 2002 2.4lt Santa Fe started shuddering under braking just after I brought it, so I got the front disc's skimmed, fixed it but 6 months later it come back, so on went a new OEM set, fixed it but 6 months later it's back again...
I'm about to skim this new set and see what happens.
Part number 81230-26000 and 81230A from partmaster
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I have a '99 E350 van that I am feeling a light anti-lock brake pulse in the pedal when I am rolling to a slow stop under light braking. Braking doesn't seem to be affected, but it doesn't feel right. I tried locking up the brakes and didn't feel any anti-lock pulse...seems backwards.
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I have a 2005 Auto Santa Fe and every now and again the ABS light keeps coming on and also the ABS kicks in during normal braking.
The car was serviced and all brakes changed last Aug. What may be causing the problem.
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