I have a 2002 Hyundai Santa Fe 2.7L FWD. The gas pedal feels sticking. I cleaned the air intake butterfly once, but it only works for 3 to 4 days. The gas pedal becomes sticking again. What's the problem it might be?
View 2 Replies2001 Camry 4 cylinder 86000 miles. I lubricated the springs, mechanism, and cables under the hood and under the dashboard.Gas pedal is only sticky sometimes, usually when pulling away from a red light where the engine speed drops to idle for a couple minutes. Idle is smooth, no check engine light.Any tricks or tips to fix it? Problem started maybe 2 weeks ago. We have had nice warm weather so I don't think it's weather related. All parts are clean and rust-free.
View 11 RepliesI'm working at summer camp with limited access to my mechanic and information on what i can do. I went to move my car today and when I put the car into reverse the shift was very stiff it went, and moved in reverse the same happened when putting it into drive. The vehicle drove fine the few feet i needed to go but then was sticky shifting into park. I thought I had it in gear all the way but i couldn't turn the vehicle off. I finally got it to turn off (I'm honestly not sure how) and so i tried to start it again to see if it was just a fluke thing... it wasn't. my car would not start. the radio a/c and basic lights came on but the engine did not. there was no clicking noises of anything. a friend and i tried opening up the hood to see if anything looked out of place of did something wrong when trying to start it but we didn't see anything.
View 1 RepliesI have a santa fe 2002 diesel the abs lights stop on all the time the brake pedal has a bad judder on it when braking. I have taken the fuses out and it will still judder. The only thing that is when i disconnect each sensor the red brake light stops on but not with the osf front sensor. All the rings look ok but when i had a problem with 1 of them the abs light would go out then return on...
View 1 Replies2003 Santa Fe, about 142,500 miles, 2.4L, 5-Speed Manual. It appears that oil consumption is 1 quart per 2500 miles.
No leaks present that I can see, no smell, no visible "smoke" from exhaust. I change my oil every 3K, so this doesn't seem too bad for the age and mileage.
Other issue: Throttle seems "sticky", especially when accelerating from lower RPM (under about 1700). I notice this especially when accelerating out of a corner in 2nd gear: If I'm attempting to climb a hill, she'll begin to hesitate as if the throttle isn't responding properly. I'm thinking it's more me, as I've recently gone from driving a 2000 VW Passat V6 to this Santa Fe with less horsepower moving a heavier vehicle. If I keep the RPMs above 2000 or just give the throttle a good press, she'll (usually) not "buck" or hesitate. Is there something I can check for? I've never really experienced this on other 4-cylinders, but those I4's have always been small cars.
I recently had the clutch replaced on my 2001 Subaru, now the clutch pedal is sticking, could this be related to the clutch replacement or is this something else? I didn't have such a great experience with the mechanic that did the work so I don't trust him to tell me truthfully whether it's possibly a warranty issue or not. The problem happens intermittently. I'll push down on the pedal and when I release it it will only come back up half way. If you tap it with you toe it pops right up. Doesn't seem to impact the functioning on the vehicle.
View 3 RepliesMy car is a 2011 BMW 328i Coupe, currently at 24K mi. Recently i found my cars brake pedal get sticky after Ive applied the brakes from time to time. But nothing server. My routine schedule maintenance will be coming up soon, so i am just wondering what could be the probable cause. Could it be the brake fluid?
View 6 RepliesI just bought a 2013 Passat SE 2.5 about a month ago. Since driving it home I have noticed that the brake pedal sort of sticks when I let my foot up off it. It doesn't happen during hard braking, just normal to light, especially when I'm riding the brake in heavy traffic. When I lightly press the pedal in, it feels like something is sticking and again when I let off it has the same feeling and it will sometimes not come up with my foot, but it rather slaps/taps the bottom of my foot while returning to position.
I took the car back to the dealer to check out and of course the service tech didn't feel what I felt. So the let me drive a loaner Passat, same model, and I felt the SAME sensation in its brake pedal. At the time I just chalked it up to "that just must be how these are", but it's kind of annoying and I don't totally feel it's right. What is causing this?
Ok so I had this creaking noise at first when I press n depress the gas pedal (how normal driving should be) and I sprayed some WD40 and now the noise is gone, but it becomes kind of sticky when pressing and depressing.
It's like when u rub ur finger on a glass window back and forth, there is time when it catches ur finger (sticks) before u can move it the opposite way, it's not smooth as it used to be (my other camrys are smooth).
When pressing a little, then a little more, it has that sticky feel, same thing when depressing the pedal. That's the best I can explain it and it is really noticeable when I'm stuck in traffic.
Do u think I have a bad pedal or some white lithium grease will take care of this?
2014 SEL V6. My mother bought a Passat last year at my urging and has just told me about an issue she's had since she brought it home. Her throttle is sticky in the very beginning of its travel. Meaning that whenever she starts off, she has to give it a decent shove to get into the 98% of pedal travel that people usually use. Usually this means that she's chirping he tires every time she makes a turn from a stoplight, and gets her head thrown back taking off in a straight line.
View 3 RepliesI have the regular Prius 2012, The brake pedal is attached to a rod that goes into a flex boot and then into the ABS module in the Engine compartment. The Boot is leaking sticky greasy/oily fluid. It not a constant leak. Its like it leaked on a Hot day and then stopped leaking.
Its not the one from my car, but its what I'm calling the ABS Mod Is this not just the lubricant for the Pedal or is this real brake fluid from the ABS module leaking into the Car? took it to Toyota and they said they had never seen this before and they are recommending to replace the entire ABS Module and Brake Fluid at a cost of $3346 + Tax. (roughly $2700 in parts)
1988 Acura Legend, 2.7L 6 cyl., 181,000 miles only do 6,500 miles a year to train station, parked inside, runs great. Last week parked out in hot sun, '90s, for 8 hours. At first, no problem. When did errand and returned to car, pushed clutch pedal and it would not return or allow gear to engage. "Jammed" into 1st, then could not shift, shifted slightly by pulling up on clutch pedal with my foot. Parked overnight, cool, next morning seemed to be fine and crept to mechanic. Mechanic road tested and found no problem and now seems to be working okay. Would parking in sun, high heat cause "clutch cylinder" to "seize" or "freeze"? Is there a "fix"? Also, increasingly hard to get parts for this car.
View 6 RepliesI have a Hyundai Santa Fe 2005 2.7L 4WD ABS.
The problem is that the Brakes pedal is so soft, that it goes to the floor, and doesn't brake at all in first pedaling. I am able to apply brakes after pumping the pedal thrice in continuation and then when it builds up some pressure, then it brakes and I'm able to stop the car. Once, I take the foot out of the pedal, it goes bad again. Once, again if I have to apply brakes, I have to do 3-4 times pedaling.
The brakes are stopping the car fine when they get applied in 3rd or 4th pedaling and when pressure is built up. Its the pressure not getting built up or maintained in the first go.
What has been done by the mechanics to solve this:
1. Master Cylinder has been replaced with a new one. (This has been done twice)
2. Brake Pads have been changed.
3. Brake fluid has been replaced and is upto the brim in cylinder reservoir.
I have a 2005 Santa Fe 2.7 V6.
For over a month I have had a soft brake pedal. For those that may not know what that is, I push my brake pedal down 3/4 of the way, and I'll finally feel the brakes catch; however, I cannot stop quickly. I have had to use the Sports Mode to slow down my car many times.
I brought it to my local mechanic and he has done the following:
1) he thought it might have been the master cylinder, so he replaced it. he checked the old master cylinder and found nothing wrong.
2) bled the brake system a couple of times, but it still came back
3) brought my car to the local dealer to drain the ABS system. The problem still came back.
I waited over an hour as the dealership's service department checked out the car. Someone finally came to me and said they checked the lines and they are not leaking, so it has to be the master cylinder. I told the guy that it's a brand new cylinder, and when the mechanic looked at the old one, he said there was nothing wrong with it. All he could say was it's not the lines, it's the cylinder. If I had the problem before & after the master cylinder was replaced, & nothing was wrong with the original master cylinder, how is it the master cylinder?
I called my local mechanic on my way home from the dealership and told him what happened. He said he was going to do some research, mentioned something about replacing something with the ABS and he would call me today.
I searched the forums for brake issues and saw something about cracked ABS rings. Could that be an issue? Could it be something else?
Soft Pedal. 2004 Santa Fe, front wheel drive 4cyl, 2.4l
When I first owned this Santa Fe the brake pedal was high and had lots of stopping power, over the last few years I noticed the pedal was getting lower. I have replaced everything needed thus far including pads, rotors and everything has recently been serviced front/rear/emergency brake/ calipers and still a soft pedal. Had the guys in our recon shop replace master cylinder and bleed the lines a few times with a full week in between bleeding to ensure there was no air in the lines. The mechanics are stumped but I'm wondering if we missed something...... I still can stop no problem but there is no grab in brakes until pedal is half way down to the floor or worse.
So for the last month when I hit the brake pedal I've been getting a creaking noise in the pedal and the brakes don't seem as good. Within the last 6 months I've replaced the rotors, calipers and pads on the front and back. Starting last week when driving between 0-40 mph the ABS has started to engage on its own without even touching the brake pedal. So I've pulled the 2 ABS fuses and I no longer have the creaking noise when hitting the pedal and of course without the ABS its no longer engaging on its own. I've checked both the tone rings in the front and both of them are fine. I also now have a cel with code 0501 and I'm guessing that is because the ABS is currently disconnected. Is it safe to assume that the ABS Pump also known as the hydraulic electronic control unit has gone bad and needs to be replaced?
View 2 RepliesHere's the short of it. 3rd time in a year the brakes on my 2005 SF (177K miles, 2.7L) have gone out.
The brake pedal is very soft and goes to the floor before braking occurs. Typical signs of a bad master cylinder.
The first time was a year ago. I bought a re-manufactured master cylinder, change it and bled the brakes. Worked like a champ and lasted 10 months.
To months ago same exact symptoms. I assume it was a bad re-man part. It's under warranty, not big deal. I do warranty exchange, bleed system, brakes return. All is good.
Less then 3 weeks later, brakes gone, same symptoms! This time I spend the difference and get a brand new OEM cylinder with reservoir. Replace, bleed, problem fixed. Brakes go out in less than a week.
I'm not leaking anywhere. Reservoir is to corect level. ABS light is NOT on. No chattering in brakes. Braking is smooth both when power brakes work and when not. No visible damage to calipers. I'm 99% sure there is no air in the system, but I'm going to try bleeding again. I have not put it up on a lift to yet to check all the lines.
I've been noticing an odd noise in the brake pedal in our '03 Santa Fe. I don't hear it all the time (almost never on the highway), but especially hear it in stop-and-go traffic. It's sort of a whirr, a "RRrrr". I've googled and watched YT videos and it's definitely not a hissing sound or a grinding sound, nor do I notice any difference in the brakes' responsiveness.
I'm apprehensive of taking it to the dealer for service because I only plan to have this vehicle for at most three more weeks. Have only held onto it this long because we couldn't afford to replace it until we sold our house-- which we've just done, and are about to move to a city about an hour away on 7/5. We'll trade in the car within a couple of weeks of moving.
The noise is definitely from the pedal and isn't anything like squeaking brake pads (I currently live in the DC metro area, so squeaky brakes become very familiar with all the stop-start traffic!). The videos I've found that point to a booster problem have a decided hiss, and it's not that either. Don't want to be unsafe in the time we've got left, but also don't want to throw another thousand bucks (every time something breaks in that darn thing, it always seems like it's about $800) into a car we won't have in a month's time.
I have a 2004 Santa Fe 3.5L 4WD. It's been running rough on occasion for quite a while now, but it's only been an occasional thing. I replaced the front passenger side axle and went for a test drive and the vehicle was barely running. I put the throttle to the floor and it does nothing more than idle. I barely made it home and am afraid to pull it out of the drive. I started it up this morning and it seemed to be idling just fine. I pushed the brake to put it in gear and it started stumbling. When I put it in gear, same thing, pedal not doing hardly anything.
The check engine light did come on and I had a buddy bring down a scanner to check it. I don't know if these are Hyundai specific codes or not, but here's what he pulled: P1110, P2127, P1173, and P1192. I'm thinking throttle position sensor, but am unsure. I've put a lot of time and money into this vehicle lately. I've spent some money and a lot of time trying to figure out why it was showing abs and traction control lights. Turned out to be the exciter ring on the axle was broke.
When I brake slow to stop or go slow round corner brake pedal judders with a brake judder noise I have read it could be cv axle or the ring tone or sensor cable.
I have replaced front discs and pads because I thought it was that but not then abs light came on and went back off and and one time stayed for awhile.
Santa Fe 05 Diesel 48000 on clock
My 18 year old daughter has a 2005 Hyundai Santa Fe that I owned for 8 years before passing down to her. Just recently she was driving when all 4 brakes locked up and the brakes began to smoke when she attempted to drive it to a location where she could pull over. The pedal went all the way to the floor. ABS light is on. Had a tow truck bring it to my brother's house. The tow truck guy was able to back it off his truck and it stopped fine. Later when my brother test drove it, the same problem occurred. My brother replaced the Master Cylinder but it didn't work.
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