Santa FE SM (2001-06) :: 2002 2.7 4wd Acts Like It Is In Neutral
Jan 26, 2015
I bought this santa fe for parts for my other identical santa. When you take it out of park into r everse drive 1st 2nd gear it will idle down 200 rpm. It had no codes till I revved it up and moved gears. Codes trans module shift selonoid b and c. It makes no noise or vibration. The torque converter does not grab what so ever if it is even moving. I want to fix it now that I see its better condition.
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My daughter just gave me her 2003 TB, about 180,000 miles. She never serviced the tranny but changed the motor oil religiously. She went to take it out one day and it wouldn't shift out of 1st. There was no warning, such as, sluggish shifting, hard shifting, slipping.
I dropped the pan, (no metal shavings just some grey slimy gunk) changed the 2 shift solenoids, filter and fluid. Now the TB has first and second but acts like it goes to neutral in third (no third). Before I give up on this tranny I was wondering if there is anything else I should look at: vacuum leak, known electrical issues with the tranny, PCM. It does not set any codes.
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My car was acting like it was in neutral. After cooling down for 20 minutes, it would drive about a block. Then it would not drive.
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I have a 2007 F150 FX4 with 105K on it. When it goes from 2nd into 3rd, it acts like it's in neutral. There's nothing there. This is in "D" with "OD" on. If i turn OD off, it will wind up and grab 2nd again and will coast if I let off the gas. Also, if I manually shift into 2nd, it will engage 2nd and I'll have engine braking if I let off the gas.
The trans fluid was full and bright red as is should be with no burnt smell to it.
I dropped the pan and the magnet was a little fuzzy with some metal filings but there was no metal laying in the pan. I also dropped the valve body and there were no broken snap rings and the e-clip on the OD servo was intact. The valve body was also clear of anything that shouldn't be there. I'm hoping that I can replace the shift solenoid and that will solve my issues.
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My car stalled one day like I was in a high gear at too low of a speed when i was in neutral. It now acts as if it is in a high gear all the time when I am in neutral. When I press the clutch it will idle like it is supposed to but when i let off it pushes forward slightly then stalls exactly like it would if i was in 4th or 5th gear. When I shift into 1st 2nd 3rd or reverse it dies as if it is in gear but will not move even slightly, when I shift into 4th or 5th it again dies but it but is acting just as I would expect 4th or 5t to at a complete stop i feel slightly more power in 4th which is expected being a lower gear but I also feel 5th pull just like its supposed to. I cannot get it to come out of the high gear it is in even though i can move the stick into the neutral position. It is difficult to get the shifter into 4th or 5th but it will move into the other positions like it should with the same no power result. My clutch is fairly new and i have tried inspecting my sift linkage wit no obvious problems. (1991 honda accord lx 5 spd, 2.2 sohc)
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I had a strange problem tonight, my car wouldn't start in park as it normally does, but did start in neutral? I certainly don't want it NOT to start! is there some sort of sensor that tells the car its in park and therefore allows it to start, which may have slipped/become faulty telling the car its safe to start, even though its in neutral and not park?
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So I put in new clutch yesterday. Reverse works, granny works, 3,4,5 work. ZF6 manual. But when I try to go 1st or 2nd. Its as if the truck is in neutral....what should I be looking for. I bought the truck having only knowing the clutch was completely shot, was not told about this 1&2 gear issue....
Do I need to pull the trans out again... or is there something I can see or adjust, because from what i can see where the shifter connects there is no adjustments. Is it probably a gear selector fork...or connection that took a crap. when moving in granny gear i did not hear any irregular noises....
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My 2001 Hyundai Santa Fe has recently started idling very high when put in park or neutral. While in drive the engine idles above 1K and you need to keep your foot on the brake to keep from moving forward. If you shut down the vehicle while idling high, the car will not start right away. It needs to cool down for 10 -15 minutes before restarting. It will run fine for awhile but will go back to revving up again.
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I'm having trouble diagnosing a high RPM in park and neutral on my 2004 Santa FE 4WD 2.7L. Idle's great in drive and reverse. Occasionally when I start the car up it will shoot up to 3000 RPM until I shift into drive or reverse with a heavy thunk. Then it drives fine. When I shift back into park when I'm done driving, it will shoot back up. To avoid this, I just shut the car off in drive and then shift to park.The weird thing is, sometimes it doesn't happen at all. Sometimes it starts right up and shuts down with perfect idle. However, once I give it some throttle in park in these instances, the idle will jump back and forth between 1500 and 2000 and won't die back down to 800 where it should be until I shift into drive or reverse. Not sure what's going on.
I've replaced the idle air control valve, purge valve solenoid, and camshaft position sensor, but to no avail. I also replaced the throttle position sensor a few weeks ago, but that didn't seem to do anything, so I took it back. I'm wondering if I maybe didn't do the correct installation procedure. I still have the old grey TPS for what it's worth. Should I change this? I've also played with the tension in the throttle cable, but I don't really know how to get it exactly within specifications. I definitely removed some slack. I just checked for vacuum leaks using the cigar method with a hose from the PCV valve with the throttle body sealed with saran wrap, but I couldn't find anything. My method was shoddy, and I don't really know what I'm doing, so I wouldn't rule out a vacuum leak by any means.
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While driving the other day the automatic transmission in my 2003 Santa Fe slipped into neutral. I pushed the car home wherre it currently sits. I checked for error codes and found none. There is a grinding noise when I shift from any gear into park.
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06 F550 w/5r110w. Truck and trans runs great then trans acts like it was shifted into neutral, rpm's flare up and if you don't get your foot out of it the trans will re engage aggressively. Changed the speed sensor on the rear axle, there are no codes, had a trans shop change the filters and fluids then change out all of the solenoids. They tell me its not a trans problem.
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I have a '05 santa fe, auto, 2.7L, 4WD...sometimes I have to jiggle the shifter to get the engine to crank...would this be the neutral safety switch? or is there something in the shifter housing that could be causing this?
Maybe a minor adjustment... Just a slight movement of the shifter and it fires right up... If it is the neutral safety switch..where is it located? on the trans?
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So I am getting really sick of my 02 Prius...it only has 124k miles on it. So what is happening now is that I'll be driving when all of a sudden the car slips into a neutral mode. The engine revs when I hit the accelerator but produces no power. So I pull over, throw it in Park, turn the car off, and when I restart, it is back to normal.
These are the codes I'm getting...I know this slippage is only one of my problems..
p1437
p3191
p3006
p3011
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New battery installed a few weeks ago - 120k on 2001 Silverado. When it is rainy out, the gauge acts erratically (yesterday the needle was between 14 and 19, today it is between 9 and 14 and the battery light is on. What can I check to figure out what might be happening?
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I have a 2002 Santa Fe 6cyl automatic GLS w/ 170k on it - great car - never a problem until about 20k miles ago, I started experiencing a shudder (like driving over a washboarded road) at 38-42 mph. If I accelerate quickly through this mph range (from 3rd to 4th gear), I can avoid it. Similarly, if I downshift back into 3rd, accelerate through and then upshift to 4th again at about 45mph, I can avoid it. It happens at a much lesser extent around 55-60mph. It has been to a reputable transmission shop that doesn't think its a tranny issue. Its been 4 days at a good mechanic and they can't find the problem. Its not throwing any codes and no other part of the vehicle seems to be affected. It has new tires/alignment less than 5k ago. I have suggested several things (ignition coil, torque converter, throttle control sensors) and they have checked these and more and don't find the problem.
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My 2001 Intrepid ran good before I removed the intake air plenum. I removed the plenum to replace the air coolant bleeder. When the plenum was removed, I left the throttle body connected and just unhooked the wires from the idle air controller (IAC) and throttle position sensor (TPS). After reassembling the intake, the car was idling up around 4000-4500 RPM. The idle is really rough as though it is hitting a rev limiter.
When I unhook the TPS, the car idles around 1500-2000 RPM but still acts like it is hitting a rev limiter. What might be causing this? I don't know why lifting the plenum and throttle body would wreck either of the two sensors. I also can't figure out why the car idles so much lower when the TPS is unhooked. Would that suggest the TPS needs to be replaced? The throttle is operating freely and is fully closed when I'm attempting to start the car.
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The best that I can describe what it feels like is at around 30 to 40 mph it shakes like your going over the side shoulder little pumps with both wheels. Only at those speeds... I all ready changed struts, tires, rack in pinion, upper and lower ball joints and tie rods. I have not change the tie rods that go up and down from struts to spindle its like 6" long or so can that be it? Or CV shaft?...
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I have a 2002 Hyundai Santa Fe 2.7L FWD. The gas pedal feels sticking. I cleaned the air intake butterfly once, but it only works for 3 to 4 days. The gas pedal becomes sticking again. What's the problem it might be?
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I have this weird problem where my cars blows air at all speeds but the AC and heater doesn't work, what it could be? Maybe blower motor relay?
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2002 GLS 2.7. Locking system has been working fine. Today while trying to load groceries through the liftgate, it would not open. Unlocked if from the key entry in the liftgate and from the front door. You can hear the locks upen but when you pull the handle, the liftgate does not unlock.
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I did a valve job on a 2002 Santa re 2.7 after I got it done and all back together I don't have and spark at the coils all of them are dead I'm sure the coils did go bad form sitting.
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