I just replaced the motor in a 2002 Sante Fe 2.7 due to timing belt breaking, this motor will not start, it turns over, but I am getting no fire to the coils. Crank sensor replaced waiting on the cam sensor, anything else it could be?
View 2 RepliesI have 2 spark plugs not firing. one of the three ignition coils does not fire, the other two do, is the most likely culprit be the ignition control module? car has the 3.8 motor.
View 4 RepliesI did a valve job on a 2002 Santa re 2.7 after I got it done and all back together I don't have and spark at the coils all of them are dead I'm sure the coils did go bad form sitting.
View 2 RepliesMy 2001 Accent GS (1.6L DOHC) wouldn't restart after a short 2 mile trip to a local store. The engine cranks fine but doesn't fire.
It has had a CEL issue for awhile and after it wouldn't start I checked the codes and got:
303
335
722
I replaced the Crank Position Sensor and Fuel Filter but it still just turns over.
I hear the fuel pump run when I turn the key on and I broke the fuel line and it is Pressurized, so I doubt it is a fuel issue.
The 722 code indicates the output speed sensor has an issue. Need to know definitively if that sensor is completely shot could this prevent the ECU from firing the engine?
I have had this car since it was brand new and I'd like to keep it going a little longer.
Just replaced the spark plugs and coils yesterday, today it gives P0113 code, Intake air temperature (IAT) sensor - high input Wiring open circuit/short to positive, ground wire defective, IAT sensor, ECM...
View 3 RepliesMy wife owns a 2004 hyundai santa fe, and recently i replaced the belt and idle pulley, I've worked on a few cars in my life and understand the basics and some on how to work on a car.But this has me baffled, the other day i decided to take her car to work. She warned me it had a a slow turn over sometimes i told her okay and headed off to work, drove fine to work no start up issue, but then i went to lunch and it had a slow start like she said. Then in the afternoon started just fine for the drive home to work. I stopped at a gas station to put a little fuel in and the car wouldn't start, it would just release a small cloud of smoke from where the the starter was, so i said ah loose starter wire. That however isn't the case, pulled the plastic shield from the bottom off abd the heat shield off the starter just to find nothing was wrong with either instead its the wire above that running from the wiring harness to the motor, how to fix this issue? Ive attached a few photos
View 1 RepliesHere is what happened. Pulled into gas station and car just died. Tried to restart and no fire. Cranks but no fire. Flat bed trip home and started to diagnose. Thought it was a bad fuel pump so I pulled and tested with a direct power and functions fine. Checked all fuses and relays, all seemed fine. checked for power at pump and nothing. Reset cut off switch and still nothing. Thought maybe ECM relay in the under hood fuse box was bad I borrowed the one out of a friends car. Nothing. Thinking ECM was bad put theirs in my car and got power to pump. So I put their car back together thinking mine was the ECM, then theirs won't start. The ECM relay i took from there car and put in mine blew when i tried to start my car. Got another ECM for my car and put in. Still no power at the pump. Here is the info about the car. 2001 Santa fe 2.4L auto. 80,000 miles. Timing belt, tensioner and all Idler wheels changed along with water pump at 71,000 miles. This car has been very reliable up till this point. No check engine light came on at any time..
View 8 RepliesHaving an issue with my 2007 Santa Fe 3.3L. When the engine is cold, been sitting for a few hours not when the temp outside is cold, it takes about 5 to 8 cranks before the engine will fire. I can then shut it off immediately and start it again and it will fire right up.
I currently have the P0464, P0463 and P2068 check engine error codes for the fuel level sensor units. I don't really know if these are directly related as I've had them for about 6 months and the starting issue has just shown up the last month or so. Plus, I would assume these should only be related to sending fuel level information to the fuel gauge. Either way, I'm still leaning toward a fuel delivery issue since it only has a hard time starting when the car has been sitting for a few hours. I don't know if maybe it's the fuel pump or a electrical component. If it's the fuel pump, I'd like to do that when I take care of the sending units so I don't have to go back in. I've tried turning the car to the 'on" position for about 10 seconds without starting it to see if I could get the pump to load the line, if that's the issue, but it doesn't seem to make a difference.
The battery is good. It tested 12.5v after sitting over night.
My '08 2.7 has difficulty starting in the morning. It makes the normal cranking noises but won't fire up immediately. I typically let it try to catch for 5-10 seconds, pause, and try again. Then I wait a minute, try again, and everything starts fine. Then it'll start normally the rest of the day.
Pardon my ignorance, but isn't there some sort of compartment that holds fuel into the engine with a check valve that keeps it from releasing back into the tank? Could it be that this valve is leaking?
Or does it sound like I need a whole new fuel pump? I tried to find schematics, but had no luck. I tired hmaservice.com, but I'm not willing to install the Adobe SVG app (obsolete and security risk) to view the documents.
I have a 02 ex 118,000 on it, not a every day driver, mostly weekend and camper towing. The truck was running great, stopped at a light and the engine started hesitating, the od light was flashing, and then it died.. started right back up no od light, but was still hesitating/missing took it to a local shop, they hooked up a scanner and said that several coils were misfiring. My question, replace all coils? go with oem coils, or aftermakert?
View 6 RepliesI have a 2001 mustang convertible in good cond. A 6cly that I have had very little trouble with over the past year. I put in a new battery then, just after I bought it from a dealer. The dealer had gone over it with fluids etc. and I had a friend look it over when I bought it. He said it was very clean and a good buy. So, last week I started having trouble starting it in the morning. It would crank but would not fire. I turned the key off, and then tried again, Same result, cranks but doesn't start. I turned it off again and being worried about draining the battery, I turned everything off, radio, heat and fan, lights. Then I tried to start it again and, it started. I'm thinking I need new plugs, but I ignored the problem and went to work.
A couple days later I was leaving the grocery store, turned the key and same thing again, cranks but doesn't fire. I knew what to do. Turned off everything and tried it again, it started. Ok, so now some repair, possible plugs, is on my priority list. I need to get this fixed before the bad winter weather comes. Yesterday, after a long day at work, I was ready to go home and I it happened again. This time it's terminal. No matter what I did I couldn't get it to fire. This morning it's sitting in the office parking lot and I need to deal with this today.
Could be plugs, could be the fuel pump. Before I call the dealer and pay 4x what I should for this, what do you think it could be? 3.8 6cly. The car is sitting on a slight incline, in the parking lot. Gravity pulls fuel from the engine to the gas tank, if a fuel pump is going bad this could be why I can't get it to start. I'm going to roll it to a level area and hit it with starting fluid to determine if the pump is bad. I'll also pull a couple plugs.
We recently changed the timing belt & serpentine belt & new alternator. Drove great for 2 days. Then car would stall out when idling, had rough idle. We replaced the Crankshaft position sensor (got one from the dealer) & the electrical connector. The engine cranks but won't start. The only code we're getting is P0335. We've checked all the fuses. Fuel pump starts when turning on the key. We've been a week without a car and trying to come up with something.
View 6 Replies2002 2.7L. Engine seized. Bought a replacement also from a 2002. Tried to start today and no spark. I just replaced the physically broken crank position sensor. That seemed like it would be an obvious and easy fix, but still no spark. The broken sensor had frayed/shorted wires. Could that have damaged the PCM /ECU? There is a 2003 Santa Fe at U-Pull-It that was running when it came in. Will the PCM from that work? I am running out of time. I have to have this running before I leave on a flight tomorrow night. I do have a code reader (if I can find it) but I can't imaging it would have any codes if it hasn't started since I had the battery out. Not sure how that works.
View 4 RepliesI'm having an issue ( happened about 6 times now) where engine is taking 5 to 10 attempts to start after, and only after, I put fuel in! Engine turns over but 3 seconds later dies. I have had the starter, battery and alternator checked and they are all fine. , it only happens after I fuel and I have tried a bunch of different gas stations so I know its not bad fuel. In between fuel ups engine runs fine and never a starting issue.
View 1 Replies02 Santa Fe was recently in a minor accident that popped the airbags. Engine won't start now. Where do i find the reset for the fuel pump?
View 3 RepliesI jump started my santafe becouse the battery was weak. After it started the check engine light on the dashboard came on and it stays on. What could the problem be.
View 1 RepliesI have an issue with my 2004 2.7 Santa Fe. I keep getting fault codes P0335 and P1372, the engine then goes into limp mode and is very hard to start.
So far I have replaced the crankshaft position sensor, the MAF sensor, the spark plugs, new ignition coils and leads.
I have traced the wiring and found no shorts, the only thing which does not match the service manual is that I get 5v on the CKPS sensor wire when the ignition is on, it said it should be 0V.
The car can sometimes run for 50+miles with no issues - then stalls with codes P0335 and P1372. I have a feeling its worse when the aircon is on but cant be 100% certain/
Every time i stop for gas..my 01 santa fe is hard to start..it would take 4 to 5 start before she goes, then i have to keep the rpm up, bring her to idle..after that shes ok, till the next fill up.. the only way around this is to keep her running while gassing up..while filling up she run rough idle, some time engine shuts off..then its hard to start..
View 5 RepliesI have a 2001 ford escape V6 3.0l. Dropped a new motor in it, got everything running fine. Surprisingly the most frustrating part was when we mixed up the order of the front 3 coils but we got it!
It drove "ok" for a week and a half. Then it started to shudder at 45-55 mph. Got it home that afternoon and started to diagnose why it would shudder. Suspect its not shifting right.We started to diagnose what was wrong, made some adjustments to IAC, MAF and checked a few other things. We then went to test drive, started up fine, drove up the driveway 50' and it died. It didnt sputter and die, it just lost all power and died.
Got it back in the garage and tried to get it started again. Turned Key... nothing. Dash lit up but starter and fuel pump didnt fire. Odometer reads ------. I can jump the starter by pulling the starter relay. Same for the fuel pump. I use a jumper wire between two pins and I can get the starter to crank and the fuel pump runs when I jumper wire the relay too. So I know its not a bad starter nor a bad fuel pump.
Odd part of everything is that It drove just fine that day (other than shuddering). Then started just fine, then died. When it died we were making a sharp left turn in the driveway. We've messed with the steering wheel because it was "accidentally" put upside down when we dropped in the new engine. Could something have grounded out in the steering wheel? Air Bag? Maybe a problem in the clock spring? What would stop it from The fuel, starter and spark all at the same time? Bad PCM? Grounding issues?
This concerns a 2003 Hyundai Santa Fe 2.7L engine.
Bad rain, combined with a puddle splash caused a short (someplace). Vehicle ran poorly on way home and then eventually failed to start. Replaced the Cam Position Sensor and the Crankshaft Position Sensor. Checked all wiring and connections. Cleared codes and the vehicle started. Ran for about 15/20 minutes and a P0340 code popped with the engine light on. Car still runs fine. Researched code and learned that this code is a Camshaft Position Sensor A - Circuit Malfunction.
1. Bad ground in Circuit.
2. Open Circuit that fails to close.
3. PCM malfunction.
Questions:
1. Where in this vehicles is the PCM located? Is it within the main ECU in one of the other ECU fuses or an independent fuse?
2. Other than the 3 issues listed above, could I be overlooking anything else?
Well zipping along the highway tonight, sitting on 100KM/h, and all of a sudden the engine loses all power. As luck would have it a fuel station was just closing (the only one for half an hour either side) and kept the lights on so I could have a look. The starter is nice and lively, and the engine is trying to fire, but just wouldn't. I asked a mate of mine in town to come out and give me a hand troubleshooting.
As it turns out, when the ignition switch is set to the "ON" position, normally the fuel pump primes the lines. It's only doing it intermittently for some strange reason, and not making it past the fuel filter (despite the filter being new). The temporary buzzing in the engine bay when the car is switched off is gone now too.
Now my question is - does this sound like fuel pump? I'm only used to the older fuel pumps in carburetor vehicles, not these fingle fangle electric things!