My son called me yesterday saying my 2005 Santa Fe 2.7 engine, 150,000 is having a problem.....car runs fine but when you put it into reverse it dies immediately. No check engine lights and I haven't checked for codes. I'll be getting home this afternoon.
2005 Santa FE
Well i was driving the other night home and all of the sudden my 02 2.7 Awd Santa Fe dies and wont start back up. Of all places it dies on a hill around a big turn in front of a grave yard. I mean it didn't make and funny sounds or anything just died. What the problem could be. I just replaced the cam sensor last week, I have read that it could be the crankshaft sensor or even timing belt. It does have higher miles 189k.
View 3 Replies My 1998 Ford Explorer XLT v6 with about 233,000 miles on it has a bit of a problem. Infrequently, when I shift into reverse from park or neutral the engine dies. It restarts without issue. There are no strange noises or smells when this happens.
The transmission was rebuilt 10,000 miles ago by a reputable mechanic. Almost all of the 230k+ miles are highway miles. Each trip around 40 miles.
High mileage santa fe 190K+ miles. Will only start while cranking. Dies when key is in "on" position. Fuel pump runs/cycles normally when turned to "on" position. No obvious vacuum leaks. No intake obstructions. Vehicle will cont to run using starting fluid. Vehicle starts, idles and runs (somewhat poorly) with MAF unplugged. Fuses appear ok (although the fuse cover/fuse index is lost). Stranded at rural property with limited tools and average abilities.
View 3 RepliesMy 2003 V6 3.6L has decided to not go into reverse today. My driveway is on a slope and the car is a few feet from the door so it is hard to tell if it goes into drive.
Obvious thought is that the tranny is gone. I would have thought that this would show signs before doing this as everything seemed fine last night.
Anything else that you can think of that I can look at? And if you are in the Reno/Sparks area, who do you take your car to for repair.
I bought my 2007 Santa Fe with 112,000 miles in April. It ran fine until about a month ago. When I turned the key to aux, the radio and lights came on but when I tried to start it I lost all power. Turning the key off and back on had no effect, it acted like the battery was dead. I opened the hood and noticed the pos cable was loose on the terminal. As soon as I touched it I heard a click, the security light started blinking and it started fine.
A week later as I was driving on the highway the electricity started blinking in and out and the car would shutter as it lost and regained power, then eventually died completely but the radio was still on. I got to the shoulder and tried to turn it back on but even though the radio and lights worked, nothing happened when I tried to start it. I lodged a matchstick between the pos terminal and the cable to make sure the connection was tight and it started. Driving home the power would occasionally stutter when I hit a bump but it never died completely.
I used a battery and alternator tester that plugs into the cigarette lighter and both registered as fine. I've driven it to work, about 2 miles, several times since and the power sometimes cuts out at bumpy parts of the road and it has died completely twice while sitting still at a light. The clock doesn't reset when it dies so, knowing nothing about electrical systems, I would guess that the electricity isn't being entirely lost. Every time it dies the radio and lights still come on but I have to get out and jiggle the pos cable to get it to restart. While driving the battery and seat belt lights flash randomly. A friend told me to try removing the pos cable while it's running and that if it died, it was probably the alternator. Tried it and the engine died immediately. Don't know what this means since the alternator tested fine.
We have a 2001 Santa Fe. Very recently it began hesitating when put in gear going forward or reverse. Once the gas pedal is pressed, there's a delay of up to 2 seconds as RPM climbs, then the vehicle jerks into gear. It seems to run fine otherwise. Mileage is approx 128 k. Maintained very well by the same mechanic until very recently. Internet searches have gotten answers of use fuel additive, install some computer patch, fix an oxygen sensor, change tranny fluid and flush tranny, rebuild tranny.
View 2 RepliesI just did a motor swap on a 2003 with 3.5 auto tranny and awd. engine runs great and every thing is running fine. Only problem is that the trans will not create any power. With no drive shafts on it still wont move the splines. With that said the trans was driving/running great b4 the swap.
View 2 RepliesMy 2003 Santa Fe makes a grumbling noise when first started, and put into drive or reverse. The noise seems to be coming from the passenger side of the engine compartment. The noise disappears when the drive train has warmed up.
View 4 Replies2004 Santa Fe, clunking noise in drive or reverse. checked brakes and cv joints, replaced drivers front and still making the noise. Transfer case was a little low on fluid but not much. Put up on stands and turn wheels with no noise. Put in drive or reverse while in the air and rear wheels sit still. It is a 4wd so I would think that all 4 tires would be turning. While in the air the front both turn and no noise is made.
View 18 RepliesI recently bought a 2001 Sante Fe 4X4, (my first Hyundai), that has transmission issues. It has about 135,000 miles on it. It will start easily, and go into Reverse just fine, but would not move in any forward gears. It would occasionally shudder a bit when put in 'drive', but only move forward a few inches. Recently, my mechanic backed it around, then decided to try it in forward again. This time it went forward a couple hundred feet, then quit moving forward. Do I need a new transmission, and if so, what vehicles use this same transmission? Or is there a sensor or valve that could be defective?
View 5 RepliesRecently my 2004 Santa Fe 2.7 AWD (~86k miles) has started to give a sort of hard thump when shifting from reverse into drive. It's fine going into any other gears and it shifts up and down normally. If I shift from reverse to neutral and then to drive it's fine.
I changed the transmission fluid when we first got the car at 40K miles with Hyundai Liquid Unobtanium SPiii fluid and again at 80k miles with Valvoline's SPiii offering. I just checked the transmission fluid level and it's within the normal range.
I can't tell if this is just drive-line slop or something else inside the tranny.
2001 Santa Fe 2.7L 4wd ... In December I bought this vehicle it only has 95K on it. When I drove the car home I noticed it needed brakes so I put brand new pads and rotors on the whole way around. I changed the oil, air filter, wiper blades, and made sure all fluids were good. I had the front spring recall done and also put some new sway bar end links on the front. The car runs fine and I am rather impressed with it. It does have some rust but I'm not to worried about that. This isn't my everyday car just a winter/extra car. Recently I have been getting some clunking only when going from reverse to drive and going slow. You get a clunk..clunk pause clunk..clunk almost like you have a flat but once I get the car up to speed it is fine and you never hear it again until the car sits a day or so and then it will do it again. I don't know if I have a differential problem or a u joint or maybe something with the e brake or rear brakes? but it is -3 right now outside and I would rather know where to start so that when I can take a look at it I know some things to check or what it might be.
View 3 RepliesI have a 2002 santa fe 2.7. I just had the transmission rebuilt and since then have noticed a clunking sound when I shift into drive or reverse. It seems to be the lower motor mount is making noise from the motor moving the mount. I look at the mount and it appears to look good, but was wondering how I can really tell if a motor mount needs replacing or not.
View 3 RepliesI was driving my santa fe at 80 k's per hour when the revs started to climb towards 3500 thousand revs. I pulled of the road and stopped, I had noticed the engine light stuck on. then i lost drive and reverse, let it idle for 4 min and they come back. What's gone wrong with the car?
View 3 Replies2001 Celica, battery dead after seeming to crank more slowly each time it was started during the day (wife was driving). I disconnected the battery to charge/test it, after reconnecting it started immediately but after 1-2 seconds engine dies. RPMs can be coaxed up to 3,000 in that time, but even though it seems to be running fine it shuts completely off, no coughing or sputtering. Won't start at all unless key is turned off and then back on, then it will do the same as described above.
It's giving a P1300 Igniter Circuit Malfunction No. 1 error code. Possible causes listed are:
- Ignition Coil No. 1 harness is open or shorted
- Ignition Coil No. 1 circuit poor electrical connection
- Faulty Ignition Coil No. 1
- Faulty Engine Control Module (ECM)
Seems to me a lot like the last, the ECM.
I have a 2001 Ford Excursion Limited 7.3l with 199,980 miles on it.
It has a TS-6. My first problem is that when I come to a stop or slow down to a crawl then press the accelerator the engine stalls and dies. I have looked and looked at threads and can not find this example anywhere. There is no pressing the pedal and it remains at idle. It dies, shuts off, quiets. I have thought icp, tps, ivs
Second problem is that a/c is blowing hot. Other than being out of Freon, what could be other things to check. It does sometime go to default, but has done so in awhile. It does not blow cold in rear and hot in front. They both blow hot. I have replaced the pvh sensor.
So this morning, I started the car and quickly shifted into "R". Midway out the drive, ~20 yards, the engine stopped and triangle "!". Turn off and restart, no problem and alarm light remains. At a stop light, the Graham miniscanner found P3101; cleared the code, and; it is time for the Spring oil change the throttle body cleaning.
View 2 RepliesTonight I got into my sonata and started it and went to put it in reverse and it just died. I put it back in park and went to start it and it wouldn't start, like the battery was dead. I found someone to jump me and when I had enough juice, I got it started again and immediately died and at the same time it died I heard a pop, I thought my belt had broke or something but it was fine. It won't crank at all now, just light dim and a click. The time before this incident it sounded really rough when I started it but it went away. The car has been idling rough right after start up then is fine and this has only been recently, just today it has sounded really rough during quick acceleration (I don't know if this has anything to do with it). I think it is the starter but I am not sure. The fuel pump was replaced several months ago so I am pretty confident it is not the fuel pump.
View 1 RepliesI have a 1990 chevy lumina 2.5 L 4 cyl. 100,000 miles....The car recently started chugging while in drive and will not accelerate correctly, when I do get it to 55 mph there's still chugging, Ive replaced the fuel filter, spark plug and wires, fuel system clean, new battery, there is a inch crack in the exhaust manifold on the front of the engine, not sure if that would make me lose power to accelerate, the car idles fine, but chugs when put in drive, and will occasionally die when put in reverse....
View 3 RepliesVery strange problem for me especially since it's not my car, belongs to my sister. Only code that was set last month indicated the MAF so I cleaned it and the car ran fine. Started to hesitate up hills (steep uphill driveway) so I replaced the fuel filter yesterday and my sister said it drove just fine uphill. Now it stalls whenever put into drive, no codes set and none pending. It will idle in reverse but not in drive.
View 1 Replies