Santa FE SM (2001-06) :: 2.4 Starts Then Shut Off After 3 Seconds
Oct 1, 2016
My car has the same issue, its a 2001 santa 2.4 . Its starts and then shut off after 3 seconds. camshaft was replaced twice already. still same issue, die after 3 seconds. everything seems to be fine.
What about fuel pressure at the rails? If the pump runs for a moment when the key is turned to the on position then when cranking it stops. That would let the engine start and run for about three seconds. Could it be the ignition switch?
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My beloved Hyundai Santa Fe,2006 model's engine light came up. The engine starts and than about 10 seconds after cuts out straight away. What to do. I have always taken care of this car and being serviced well.
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New sfs 2.0t with tech pkg. There's one spot In my town when I drove through, just a normal empty street, and the radio dies and a loud 4 tone alarm starts for about 5 seconds. Same road, does it about 25 ℅ of the time, real stumper. No indications on dash or radio.
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I have a 2003 Elantra 2.0 with no spark, no codes... anymore. The car was driven about 6 miles, shut off, went back out to start it, it ran for 10 seconds then shut down. Now it will not restart.
What I did: As per some of the advice of others I replaced the crank sensor, cam sensor, ignition coil, check compression, pulled codes from the ecu with one being a crank sensor. I have power at the fuel pump during crank, i can smell gas during crank, plugs are dry just no spark. Timing belt and timing are fine, engine sounds as it should during crank but no spark. There is power at the coils, crank and cam sensors. MIL is on when key is turned and goes off during crank.
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I'll provide as much info as possible concerning an all too common problem with these cars. The radiator (passenger side) fan will run for a few seconds when the AC is turned on, then it will shut off. It does not come on when the car is up to temperature. The AC condenser (driver's side) fan runs normally. Steps I have taken so far are as follows:
A. Replaced the radiator fan -- no joy.
B. Replaced the coolant temperature sensor -- no joy.
C. Replaced the thermostat -- no joy.
Coolant level is normal and there are no leaks in the system. The temperature gauge however, never rises above cold.
My questions are:
1. What are the next step(s) to solving the radiator fan problem?
2. Is there a separate sensor for the temp gauge, other than the one in the thermostat housing and if so, where is it located?
3. Since I live in AZ where it never gets very cold, I'd be perfectly fine with having the radiator fan run whenever the engine is running. Is there a way to wire it so it's always on with the ignition?
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My 2001 Prius (230,000 miles) is unusable. I can clear the codes. The engine will start up fine. After a few seconds it starts bucking and jerking as if the engine is trying to engage something that won't turn and finally stalls. It is similar to a manual transmission car's action if you fail to push the clutch in when you stop the car. What the engine is trying to engage? I don't have any scanner to read the codes.
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Our check engine light came on earlier this summer. A local mechanic who supposedly specializes in German autos said there was a vapor lock leak in the fuel system. He replace our gas cap and reset the warning light. A few weeks later the light came back on. This time he replaced fuel pump and reset the warning light. This created a new problem: when you turn on the ignition it now takes 20-30 seconds before the car ignites/starts. The engine turns over but takes that long to start. If you turn the ignition on and then quickly turn if off and then on again it starts immediately.
A few weeks went by and the check engine light came on again. I took it to a new mechanic. He said the fuel pump appeared to be fine and replaced a fuel line sensor. This didn't work at all as far as I can tell.
Now the check engine light is back on and we still have the prolonged starting problem. Now that the temps are cold the starting issue does seem a little better.
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I read the forums and found nothing quite like mine.
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I've developed a problem, usually when starting, that the truck will crank over, start and idle for a few seconds and then shut off. The few seconds it idles it doesn't get any throttle input. I'll crank it back over taking a little more than usual to get it started. When it does start it seems slightly sluggish but that quickly, like almost immediately goes away and the throttle is working again.
Oh, 2001, 7.3 stock w/200k
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My 2003 Hyundai sante fe would not shut off. I had to disconnect the battery in order to kill the engine. The one thing I did notice was the ignition assembly didn't seem to have anymore kickback to it when engaging the starter. It just turns freely. weird, I hooked the battery back up and noticed that all my dashboard lights came back on with the key in my hand. I new something in the switch must be broken. I ordered both a new key and tumbler and also the ignition starter switch. When going to install it I notice that the cam looking part is the culprit.
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Have a used 2003 Santa Fe /w 2.4 . 150.000 miles .
It shuts down at any speed . seems to cut out mostly when cornering and applying the brakes. Check engine lite stays on . code p401 cnf
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I have a Santa Fe 2001, 2.0 Crdi.
My low beam have shut down. I have checked the fuse for right and left, and as I can see, it's the same fuse as for the high beam ...
Is there any known problems regarding this faults ? Of course, the bulbs are ok ...
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I had a strange problem tonight, my car wouldn't start in park as it normally does, but did start in neutral? I certainly don't want it NOT to start! is there some sort of sensor that tells the car its in park and therefore allows it to start, which may have slipped/become faulty telling the car its safe to start, even though its in neutral and not park?
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I have an Air Conditioning issue on my 2004 Santa Fe, 2.4L 5-speed manual with 208,000km on it. I've never had any work done on my AC since I bought it new. Never had a problem with it and even as I write this is works just fine and blows ice cold air.
The problem started a couple of weeks ago when I noticed this very brief "higher pitched burping sound" coming from under the hood that lasts for just a second, and only when the AC is on and only if the RPM's are above idle. It sounds like a "bloop" for lack of a better description. When it happens, the RPM's drop one mark on the RMP gauge for a moment and there is obvious strain on the compressor. Air remains ice cold, everything still works, but this occurs every 30 seconds or so while driving.
While stopped I can rev the motor to just above idle, say 2000rpm and engage one of the defrost settings and get the "bloop" sound to occur almost every time. The top thicker AC pipe leading into the firewall from under the hood (the one that gets cold to the touch) seems to be part of the problem. At least if I am touching this pipe when it makes this "blooop" sound I can feel the vibration from the "bloop" in this pipe.
I've already had a garage replace my AC belt which I just had replaced a month ago, and checked the pullies and tension and all is okay. So it's definitely coming from the AC system and I can feel a vibration during the "blooop" sound on that pipe that gets cold and goes through the firewall. The sound does not occur when the AC is not on.
Also, when I am driving and it occurs every 30 seconds I do feel a slight decrease in the smoothness of the ride and like I said when it does this the RPM's will drop one mark on the gauge, which I'm assuming is the strain on the motor trying to engage the compressor when it's probably already up to pressure.
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This all started out when I wanted to change my original plugs that had 200k miles on them. I have that part done now and new wires. Then it wouldn't start without me starting it while holding the gas pedal down. Then I would have to press the pedal down or it would die.
I may need to clean the throttle body. I bought some Valvoline Throttle Body Cleaner and cleaned the throttle body it was black inside and now it's nice and clean. After that the car starts up fine except on the first try. It starts up and idles at around 2,000 rpms. When I press the brake it drops to 1,000, then back up to 2,000. The strangest part is I have no acceleration power now. I can press the pedal to the floor and it will only go to 3,000 rpms. It will slowly get faster as I drive but there's no immediate response when I press the pedal down.
Why would cleaning the throttle body do this? It throws a code when I first start it and it dies the P1110 code but I think that is because the rpms are at 600 when it catches it. No misfire codes or anything, so I think the plugs and wires are working. Just the faster than normal idle now and no power when I press the pedal down.
Would the throttle body cleaner hurt the throttle position sensor?
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We just replaced the starter on a 2004 Hyundai Santa fe 3.5. The car now starts, but won't idle. I can keep my foot on the gas and keep it running, but as soon as I let my foot off the gas it dies. We didn't have this problem before replacing the starter. Where to start looking?
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Left my 2002 SF 2.4 with someone to replace clutch. Calls me after the job to say it doesn't run!
Codes P0100 and P0340.
Maf is new. I had a Cam sensor in stock. Nil fix.
Have changed out recently;
Fuel Pump
Coil packs
CPS
MAF
and just now, the Cam sensor.
It starts right up then shuts off, does not slowly sputter and die.
I asked him to go over the wires and connectors. He could have stressed a cable while pulling the tranny. I do have the old MAF that I could try, but doubtful it would fail at the same time as a clutch job. Now wishing I had done the clutch myself!
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I'm having this cold start issue with my 2001 SF, but it doesn't seem to be fuel related like as the car starts fine but after about literally 1-2seconds the RPMs drop below 1k and the car will stall if I don't put my foot on the accelerator and keep it around 1000-2000 RPMs. But if I happen to make the revs go too high and let them drop again it seems like it wants to stall even easier. After about 30 seconds it smoothens out and drives almost perfectly except for a slight lack of power than normal going uphill (A.T drops to 2nd gear, sometimes 1st depending on the incline). We have had the coolant temp sensor and the fuel pressure sensor replaced. Could it be the MAF? We did clean it one time but it didn't seem to work much at all. Recently out of curiosity, I disconnected the MAF sensor and started the car it being started for a few days. No issue with idling whatsoever!.. ??
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2002 Sante Fe, 2.7L Belt squeals for about 10 seconds when the vehicle is first started up (engine cold) in the morning. Doesn't do it any other time until next morning. I had this problem 6 months ago and replaced the belt (OEM) and Dayco Tensioner. Now I have same issue again! What gives?
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Was in town stopped at a traffic light when my 2003 Santa Fe just shut off. No warning, started right back up again, no CEL, no DTCs. Scary. I'm happy it happened with me driving the car instead of my daughter driving. Also happy it didn't happen on the highway.
I've had hard starting issues for a while now. Replaced crank sensor, it's fine for a few starts, then goes back to hard starting, but I hadn't had a problem in a few weeks.
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New post for a better problem. It was a hot day today in vegas, but my santa fe was running at normal temp (I double checked with my analyzer), running great. When I got home I turned the key off and took it out of the ignition, all the electrics went out (lights, gauges, etc.) yet the car was still running. It took about 5 seconds or so for it to wind down and stop.
2001 Santa Fe, 2.7ltr, 120,000 mi., 2 wheel drive, great shape, no codes.
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