My 2001 Saab 9-5 wagon has ignition problems. The key will not turn the ignition. It fits in but will not turn. It's a manual, so I can't get out of reverse. It will not move and I'm a long way from a Saab dealer. The key will activate the locks, etc., and the radio will come on.
View 6 RepliesWe have a 2004 2.4L 4 cyl Santa Fe. Turn ignition key get a click and engine will not turn over. Push key in harder and engine may start fine. If it is the key ignition switch or something else. is there somewhere I can look to see how to remove the ignition switch?
View 4 RepliesI have a 2002 Saab 9-3. I tried starting it this morning but the key won't move from the locked position at all! What should I do? The steering wheel doesn't seem to be locked and I had the battery changed not to long ago.
View 5 RepliesGot a 2001 Alero 4 cyl. Couple. Almost a month ago that car wouldn't turn over. Did the 10 min passlock procedure and it started. Been OK til today. So now the key won't turn in the ignition. Won't turn at all. Steering wheel is not locked, car is locked in park. Tried to turn it while moving wheel, shifter, etc. to no avail.
Is this a bad ignition lock cylinder? If so, I've read some procedures on how to replace this thing. It looks horrible. And it seems that one needs to turn the key to get the cylinder out. Is this correct? Remember, my key won't turn at all. Also, is there any way to key it to match the existing keys without taking it to a stealer/dealer? I saw a part on Rock Auto that comes with 2 keys. But I guess then the ignition keys would be different from door/trunk.
2001 Honda CRV. Key will not turn. Lights work, steering wheel is not locked up, clutch in but key will not respond.Interior light goes on when key removed. Key will simply not turn.
View 6 RepliesI have a 2006 Santa Fe with 137K miles on it. Has been best car I ever owned, but have recently experienced a strange issue where it won't start, meaning I put the key in the ignition, turn it to the right and nothing, not even a click on the starter. I have found if I move the shifter around from P to R to D, etc. and then try it again it will start. Is there a safety interlock switch in the shifter that could be going bad and is therefore not satisfied/happy when I try to start the car? Or could the ignition hardware where I insert the key be the issue.
View 1 RepliesI have a 2003 Santa Fe with AWD, automatic, and 3.5L engine. Saturday I went to get in and key wouldn't turn. Tried to mess with shifter and steering wheel but no go, Wife got it to turn after I went to work. Won't start. Waited for a new ignition lock cylinder then replaced today. Still won't start. There is no chip in the key as far as I know and the kill switch thing is still plugged in. Jumping does nothing. Doesn't even try to start or do anything when I turn the key all the way. What am I missing here?
View 5 RepliesToday I was unable to turn the ignition key to start the car. It is not the steering interlock, and no amount of wiggling while turning will get the ignition to turn. I tried both the keys I have (1 master and one valet key). Both keys are quite worn, but it seems unlikely that a new key from Toyota will be the answer.
View 18 Replies2001 Buick regal started and ran left town for 10 days came back cranks but wont start I don't here fuel pump engage when I turn on ignition...
View 1 RepliesI've just bought a 2.0D Santa Fe (I am UK based) and when I turn on the ignition the warning lights light up and then go off - which I believe is the light check.
However, the transmission warning light does not come on during this check period. Is there an easy way to test this? I'd like to know when the 4WD kicks in or there is a problem but don't know if there's a bulb fault or not.
It's a 2001 Chevy cavalier. The key is stuck and won't turn the car off. Already have tried shaking the wheel and wd-40. The wipers won't work and the gauges won't turn on until I jiggle the key.
View 4 RepliesI have a 2001 BMW 330i. The car has been a dream since the beginning but lately issues have risen to the surface. Today, when I turned off the ignition all the dashboard lights remained on. The keys in hand, lights off, nothing else on, but the dashboard was lit up light a christmas party. I recently recharged my battery, a problem, I think, caused by the cold temperatures.
View 1 RepliesHaving a problem with the fuel pump engaging. Warm or cold same problem. When I turn the ignition on I can hear the fuel pump engage and the car runs fine on start. Other times I turn the ignition on and don't hear the pump engage, thus no start. But repeatedly turning the ignition on an off I get the fuel pump to engage and I have start, will run until I shut it down. been doing this for a couple of weeks now. Is this an ignition thing or fuel pump? No wiring diagram. Replaced all relays, battery good. Never did anything with the fuel system.
View 3 RepliesOur check engine light came on earlier this summer. A local mechanic who supposedly specializes in German autos said there was a vapor lock leak in the fuel system. He replace our gas cap and reset the warning light. A few weeks later the light came back on. This time he replaced fuel pump and reset the warning light. This created a new problem: when you turn on the ignition it now takes 20-30 seconds before the car ignites/starts. The engine turns over but takes that long to start. If you turn the ignition on and then quickly turn if off and then on again it starts immediately.
A few weeks went by and the check engine light came on again. I took it to a new mechanic. He said the fuel pump appeared to be fine and replaced a fuel line sensor. This didn't work at all as far as I can tell.
Now the check engine light is back on and we still have the prolonged starting problem. Now that the temps are cold the starting issue does seem a little better.
I have a 01 f250, I've only had it a couple of months. It has 300k miles on it and has its share of problems. I knew that going in and I just bought it for a work truck around the farm and honestly I don't expect it to work perfectly. But since I have had it there are times where it will not crank, it will only click under the dash and then a second click under the hood. It will do that in the mornings a lot and by the afternoon it will crank. I found that jumping the 2 larger wires on the starter solenoid bypasses the problem and it will turn over and crank. So I replaced the solenoid thinking that was the problem, but it still does the same thing. I know the batteries are good.
View 5 RepliesI have a 1999 Saab 9-5. For the past 4 years I have only used the key to lock/unlock the doors. (I never liked using the fob.)
Lately, once a week I am unable to turn the key in the lock. It does not budge. Sprayed some lubricant, but no effect. It stays stuck -either locked or unlocked a few days, and then goes back to normal.
When it sticks locked, I've unlocked the hatch and crawled inside. I can unlock the doors then from the center console, but once I exit the car, I can't get the key to turn to lock it again.
Ok...starter replaced and battery..car won't turn over...sometimes...power there and a click but nothing...then nothing then nothing again and then starts...starts sometimes ok...doesn't matter what temperature it is...
View 4 RepliesMy mechanic wants to use an engine cleaner to add to oil, then blow it all out!! It's a 2001 Saab 9-5 with 110k miles and is starting to burn its semi-syn at the rate of 1 qt. per 1400 miles.He says there's no discernable leaks.Should I let him add anything? Just keep adding the oil?
View 17 RepliesI have a 2004 Saab 9-3. Currently the Battery Warning Light has come on. It came on while the car was being driven. The car's performance seemed to suffer and it was hard to turn the steering wheel. We were about two miles away from home and we somehow managed to get home but we simply couldn't get the car to turn on to our driveway because of loss of power for steering.
We checked the Saab manual and it reads : Warning Charging - This light comes on together with 'triangle/exclamation' light if the battery is not charging. If it comes on while you are driving, stop the car as soon as possible and switch off the engine.Check the alternator drive belt. If the belt has broken, the engine may overheat (cooling system will not function properly), the battery will not be charged, the A/C compressor will not run and power assistance for steering will be lost.
Our observation:- We experienced the a/c not working too well- We had problem with steering - It was almost as if the steering wheel was locked. It was extremely hard to turn. Is this an alternator belt or a battery issue? If so, how do we figure out?
I'm having trouble with my saab wagon blowing hot and cold at the same time. It generally occurs when the outside temp is within 10 degrees of the temp setting on the car. Now during the summer the drivers side will blow cold and the passenger side hot. I'm thinking it may be the solar sensor on the dash. Driving in this condition is not only uncomfortable but also highly embarrassing when I have a passenger.
View 6 RepliesI have a 93 subaru impreza manual that when I turn the key on and push in the clutch it wont turn over. The coolant fans kick on and stay on and so i retrieved the codes and the coolant temp sensor was the dtc so I replaced the sensor and cleared the code but the fans still come on and the engine still does nothing. Also I can gear clicking noises throughout the engine compartment and dont know where its coming from.
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