My mechanic wants to use an engine cleaner to add to oil, then blow it all out!! It's a 2001 Saab 9-5 with 110k miles and is starting to burn its semi-syn at the rate of 1 qt. per 1400 miles.He says there's no discernable leaks.Should I let him add anything? Just keep adding the oil?
View 17 RepliesI too had this problem and tried different gas, gas additives, meticulously inspecting the cooling system to make sure overheating was impossible, found the jumper that allows me to back off timing 2 degrees, checked the computer for error codes, and cleaning the MAF sensor. Nothing really worked.
The solution is to decarbon the engine. It is all described in TSB 01-19-7, dated OCT 01. I did this and END of the problem. Pay attention to the part about not ingesting the PM-3 cleaner too fast to make sure you don't liquid lock your engine. The only important step they forgot was that you will need to replace spark plugs when you're done. You may also want to lay some newspaper under your tailpipe too, as the crud is gonna flow.
The TSB notes that the driver should have "periods of daily operation over 3500RPM to break carbon from cyl heads". They also note that you should NOT use mid-grade or super duper unleaded, as these increase the probability of carbon buildup.
This repair will cost about $30 if you do it yourself; if you can change a flat tire you can do this.
On most of the newer cars there is no transmission dipstick and therefore there is no way for the consumer to check the condition or the level of the automatic transmission fluid and also there is no way for the consumer to add fluid or transmission additives. Is there a way to taking the vehicle to a dealer or a mechanic?
View 19 RepliesMy 2001 Saab 9-5 wagon has ignition problems. The key will not turn the ignition. It fits in but will not turn. It's a manual, so I can't get out of reverse. It will not move and I'm a long way from a Saab dealer. The key will activate the locks, etc., and the radio will come on.
View 6 RepliesI'm having trouble with my saab wagon blowing hot and cold at the same time. It generally occurs when the outside temp is within 10 degrees of the temp setting on the car. Now during the summer the drivers side will blow cold and the passenger side hot. I'm thinking it may be the solar sensor on the dash. Driving in this condition is not only uncomfortable but also highly embarrassing when I have a passenger.
View 6 RepliesI'm planning on doing the regular scheduled coolant flush but not sure if it can be done without any special equipment.
One dealer said they don't do many diesels but have a machine to do the refill and quoted ~200$. The other does more diesels but hasn't done a flush in a while and quoted ~500$ and said he does it old school by draining everything out and then water flush followed by refilling the systems.
Which one is right? Can it be done in the driveway? Which is the correct coolant for the refill and are any additives required after filling?
The car started fine...upon pulling out of the parking lot, the check engine light came on. After a couple seconds, the engine slow cut out and then wouldn't restart. After 20 minutes, I tried again and it started. When I pressed the gas it would only creep. I then had to floor the engine to get it to move. I'm not sure but I don't think I felt or heard the car shift, it's an automatic.
View 1 RepliesI was going 65-70MPH on the highway and the engine suddenly shut down. I pulled over on the shoulder and tried to restart but the engine would start for a second then dies again. I tried several times but it would not start. Waited 10 min and tried again with no luck. I called a towing service and a friend to pick me up. The towing guy called me 40 min later and said the car starts fine. I have driven it for couple days since and tried to recreate the problem (warming the engine, accelerating hard to 5000 RPM, stop and go situation) but the car runs great. No problem whatsoever with power or jittering or unstable idle or starting the car.I talked to 2 mechanics and they both think it is the fuel pump failing. But I am not convinced since I could smell gasoline when I was trying to start it.I have no check engine light on and I checked for recorded codes with my BT OBDII tool – nothing.
Do you think it might be CPS? Wouldn’t I get check engine light on if it is CPS?
Key batts are good. Car batt charged. Key remote function good.
Do I need to reprogram keys. If so, HOW?
I don't have car book. Could Lock smith fix?
My 1985 Saab 900 turbo has been dying while being driven. Suddenly, and usually while the car is relatively hot and in traffic, the engine will die while driving. Usually it will die when at a light stopped but not always. This has never happened before the last week or so, but the car has always had trouble with cold starts and will die while idling when the ignition is first turned. This hasn't been diagnosed. At times a lot of smoke will come from the exhaust, and this has not had a trigger (too much oil, hard driving, etc) but the car did pass smog in California (the strictest state!). Just now, a light I've never seen (and I've had 2 80's Saabs) came on the dash which said EXH, which I read could be regarding the o2 sensor?
View 3 RepliesI own a 2002 Saab 9-3 with 248,000. When I start the engine there is a rattling sound as if something is loose and quiet down when the engine warms up. Sometime when I stop and accelerate there is rattling and then a lot of smoke from the exhaust. I am looking for a mechanic that specialize in Saab to get a honest assessment. How to keep this vehicle running.
View 13 RepliesI have a 2000 Saab 9-3, the 'Viggen' model, and it almost always runs just fine. But once in a while, maybe every couple of thousand miles, the engine just stops, in the middle of cruising along. The power steering goes dead immediately. So far, it has only happened in city driving, not going fast or accelerating hard. I can restart immediately by just depressing the clutch and running the starter. From other reading, I wonder whether it's the Direct Ignition Casset? The engine is the 2.3 L turbo.
View 6 RepliesMy 2001 Saab 95's engine periodically downshifts. Usually the downshift happens after some highway acceleration. The ABS light turns on at the same time as the downshift. The road conditions are always dry. The downshifting started last summer and has continued during the winter months. The alternator was recently replaced but the downshifting periodically continues. MY Saab repair shop cannot figure out what the issue is.
View 4 RepliesI am having a problem with my 2006 Saab 9-3 Aero Combi Wagon w/130k miles. When idling, driving up hills, and accelerating to pass, the engine seems to miss multiple cylinders. I've had all spark plugs replaced within the last year, and all the cylinder coils were checked after bringing the car in for this problem (one was replaced). I took the car in yesterday to address this problem and the mechanic stated that he didn't know what to do. The check engine light is on, and the mechanic told me that the readout states that their might have been a problem with the gas cap, but they checked it out and it looked sound. Could this be a fuel pressure problem? spark plug wires?
View 5 RepliesAt 202,000 miles, my 2002 Saab 95 engine went out -- the motor clanks and spews clouds of smoke. I want to replace the motor with a CarFax verified low mileage engine because I plan to keep the car for a few more years and give it to my son. My mechanic will charge around $900. But the engine prices vary on miles, of course. The lower mileage has higher prices, etc.
View 7 RepliesMy 2001 Saab 9-5 has 156,000 miles and is generally in fine working condition. An irregularity in starting began about two months ago which will happen say once every twenty times the car is driven for more than twenty minutes or so.
The car always starts when the engine is cold, first time each day. After driving for awhile then stopping for a quick errand, more than 90% of the time the car will restart, less then 10 % of the time it does not. The engine does not crank at all, only a faint click noise. I can try starting again a number of times with the same noise and result.
However, after 20-25 minutes have passed the car will start as it normally should. Seems to me somehow the problem relates to the cooling off period. Does this make sense?
Is it a switch, a loose wire on the starter, internal wear on the starter motor? Is it a clue that it takes about the same amount of time before it will restart?
I have a 2006 SAAB 9-2X, that I just bough used with 116k. The car rides great and I am really enjoying it. The one problem is that there is an intermittent smell of burning. Some days its strong, some days there is no smell at all. It is really weird. I took it to my mechanic for its inspection and he passed it and said that the care looked great. I havent seen a leak, the check engine light is not on and there is no smoke.
View 15 RepliesI have been having some engine/electrical issues with my 2003 saab 9-3 convertible. It started with the check engine light coming on I had it diagnosed as a map 2 sensor and transmission output sensor. The light went off and the car ran fine. Now the light is back on and the engine stalls out at random times (while accelerating, at idol, and now loses power during full throttle. It bucks on the highway).
Today while losing power blue smoke comes out of the tail pipe, but only during the power loss bucking. I also notice when there is a power loss or skip/bucking the turbo needle goes into the yellow/high mark. I am going to take it to a repair shop soon but what this might be? Also sometimes while driving when the bucking/skipping/power loss happens the gear indicator light on the dash goes from drive to neutral to reverse and park intermittently.
I have a 1999 Saab 9-5. For the past 4 years I have only used the key to lock/unlock the doors. (I never liked using the fob.)
Lately, once a week I am unable to turn the key in the lock. It does not budge. Sprayed some lubricant, but no effect. It stays stuck -either locked or unlocked a few days, and then goes back to normal.
When it sticks locked, I've unlocked the hatch and crawled inside. I can unlock the doors then from the center console, but once I exit the car, I can't get the key to turn to lock it again.
Our 98 Saab's A/C seems to have a slow leak. Do-it-yourself, stop-leak, A/C recharges available at stores like Advance and NAPA Auto?
View 1 RepliesMy 2001 Saab 9-3 (manual) won't start. It chugs and chugs and chugs but it won't catch. We've figured out that it isn't the fuel pump, but nobody can figure out why it won't start.
View 4 Replies