Saab - 9-3 :: Engine Suddenly Shut Down When Going 65 - 70 MPH On Highway
Jul 27, 2013
I was going 65-70MPH on the highway and the engine suddenly shut down. I pulled over on the shoulder and tried to restart but the engine would start for a second then dies again. I tried several times but it would not start. Waited 10 min and tried again with no luck. I called a towing service and a friend to pick me up. The towing guy called me 40 min later and said the car starts fine. I have driven it for couple days since and tried to recreate the problem (warming the engine, accelerating hard to 5000 RPM, stop and go situation) but the car runs great. No problem whatsoever with power or jittering or unstable idle or starting the car.I talked to 2 mechanics and they both think it is the fuel pump failing. But I am not convinced since I could smell gasoline when I was trying to start it.I have no check engine light on and I checked for recorded codes with my BT OBDII tool – nothing.
Do you think it might be CPS? Wouldn’t I get check engine light on if it is CPS?
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Cruising down the highway, my 2001 Santa Fe engine suddenly cut out. Would crank, but not fire. Not hearing a sound from the back when I flipped on the key, suspected the fuel pump, which I replaced. No go.
I'd pressed the fuel pump reset switch under the hood - checked it again. Should the switch, when it's pressed, stay in a locked position, like when you do a reset on a GFCI electrical outlet? Or is it normal for it to have the up/down 'play' in it?
Also noticed a strange buzzing on the other side of the engine compartment -- was the unit (don't know what it's called) that the throttle cable feeds into - hooks onto a pulley. The buzzing was intermittent and inconsistent, but it was happening with just the power switch on.
Oh, and did replace the fuel pump fuse, too. While it's at 280.000 miles, not quite ready to give up on 'er yet!
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I was sitting at the light waiting for it to turn green and all of a sudden the engine shut of with all of the check engine lights come on, it stop fast and hard like someone just turned the ignition off. What can cause this? I turned the key to the off position and it started right up agin and has been no problem all week, but I am worried about driving it right now.
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I purchased a new 2015 last month and have less than 700 miles on it. Thus far I love the vehicle. However, last night, I had just left my driveway and was proceeding at about 30 mph when I was forced to brake suddenly but not enough to come to a complete stop. The engine shut off, so I put the vehicle in park and restarted.
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The battery light (but not the ! warning light) suddenly started flashing a week ago, and then a day later the car wouldn't start so I took it in for repair. Was told the battery needed to be replaced, but that it was drained because the alternator was defective. So both replaced. Within one day of driving it home, the battery and various other lights started flashing anew (which had happened last after it was jumped and while I was driving it into the mechanic the first time). Car then went dead again after turning off ignition. Wouldn't start.What's wrong with the car? BTW, mechanic has car (which we towed in) and now can't get problem to recur despite his having driven it around several times, for shorter and longer trips! My sixth sense tells me as soon as I pick the car up and drive home, I'll get the loss of battery/power experience and it going dead yet again! He says he checked for short wires and belt issues.
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So the gas engine shut off (I filled up the tank yesterday) when I was on the highway and the engine light came on, the triangle ! light came on and the hybrid system light came on on the GPS screen. I pulled over and turned it off, check the oil, which was a little low, but there is some in there and eventually the gas engine started up again, but it didn't sound very healthy. I need to get to work tomorrow morning...it's at the mechanics and I trust him, but if it's something stupid and silly, maybe I can just do it myself and not get charged for any diagnostics.
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I recently had the following work done or replaced on my 2005 Saab 9-2 X -
Timing belt kit and water pump replacedA/C BeltALT/P/S BeltFront Camshaft seal KitFront Camshaft seal
Everything was fine for a couple of weeks. A few days ago my car started shuddering on the highway and the check engine light came on. I was out of town at the time and took my car to a different service garage. They found that "Cylinder #3 was miss firing and had very low compression, only 20 psi" They suggested I may need to find a used motor to have installed...
I arranged to have the car transported home and dropped of at the shop that performed the original work.
Is it possible that the current problem could have been caused by the previous work being done incorrectly?Or should this possibility of this problem been noticed when the previous work had been done?
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Shifted accidentally from third to second on highway, revved way up and engine shut off, turns over almost started an hour later but didnt want to try to completely start it. still under warranty so how do I get around the OBD reports and get it covered or am I screwed.
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So have a 1991 Saab 900 about a 3 month's ago I bought it and each time I would fill up the tank the gas light would always be on well after awhile of driving it for about a month it broke down. I would just be driving and all of a sudden it would shut off, and won't start for a few hours and now it won't start at all just crank I've replaced the fuel pump and it's pumping though the line but I took the injectors out to see if it would spray when cranking and it's not.
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I have 2000 S10 SFI 2.2L 4Cy...It was running fine, and my wife was on her way home from work and it shut off on her going down the road. No sputtering or anything, it just shut off. I got a tester on it, and I'm getting no codes. I asked a couple of people, and several suggested it was the ICM, but no go after replacing. My next thought is the coil packs or even the fuel pump relay considering I don't hear the pump kick on now.
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I have a 2006 Ford Expedition that runs perfectly with one exception, It will shut off all of a sudden. I can be driving down the highway or in town and all of a sudden it will just stop running. This has happened twice in the past six months. So far I have been able to get to the side of the road safely.the vehicle will immediately start and run perfectly as if nothing has happened. No error codes.
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I own a 2003 Chrysler town and country. I was driving home and all of a sudden the car just shut off. I coasted to the side of the road and tried to restart and nothing. The warning signals( i.e., seat belt etc.) came on normal but when I turned the key nothing no sound. I have no clue as to what is wrong with it. Had it towed home and here it sits.
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On Monday, I was driving my 03 Ford Taurus. I had my cruise set at 57mph, all the sudden I started slowing down. I pushed the gas to the floor to try speeding up, but I kept slowing down. The car never shut off. I still had all of the electronics and the motor was still running, had my power steering as well. I pulled over and shut the car off. I started it back up and continued down the road and it happened again. Same thing, slowed down and pressing the gas and no speed. This happened 5 times within 65 miles. I got to my destination and was there for about 15 minutes, when I made the return trip. On my way home, I didn't experience this issue at all. What the cause may be?
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I have a 2011 Subaru Outback with 40000 miles. For the third time since I've had it (6 months), the engine suddenly gets very loud at highway speeds while I am on cruise control. The RPMs go up about 500 and this lasts for a few minutes before going away. What is going on?
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Okay, So this has happened to me about five times now over the past year or so. I will be driving and my car will literally shut off. yesterday, I was driving on the freeway and was just cruising at 75mph when all of a sudden out of no where my car makes a big jolt and then the rpm's go from around 3k to 0. I have had this in the shop for this problem many times and no one can really seem to figure out what is wrong. when my car shuts off while im driving, the oil light comes on, traction control light comes on, as well as the battery light. What's even more weird about this problem is once the car stops, if i try to start it right away it wont fire up... It will just roll over. But. if I wait for a while the car starts and drives normal with all the lights off. This is not only annoying but very dangerous.
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Two weeks ago, my '05 Malibu suddenly shut off as I started up from a light. I was low on gas and assumed that was the problem. I went straight to a gas station & filled up, and it seemed like everything was ok. However, twice in the last 3 days, it has happened again (with plenty of gas in the tank)--once going uphill on a highway and once rolling along at 30 mph on a city street. The engine and traction control lights come on and the message center says "Engine disabled" or "engine power reduced". I tried driving slowly with "power reduced" but it immediately switched to "disabled" and shut off. So far, if I pull over, shut everything off, and wait for a minute, I can start it again and drive on with no problem.
My dad has an '04 Impala with a somewhat similar problem, but instead of shutting off, it won't start. Nothing happens when you turn the key. If you wait about 20 minutes, it will often start and run fine. He had the engine computer replaced and it was great for a few months, but now the problem is back. He can often tell when it's going to have an 'episode' because either the security or traction control message will come up. Is this the same issue my Malibu has? What issue does my Malibu have?
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98 Ford Escort (150k miles) died suddenly when I was going in reverse (parking) after a 100minute trip between 7 and 9 am. The entire electrical shut down after going about 30 ft in reverse.I checked all the fuses and they look OK. The alternator has about 2 years on it. The battery is used up but still works in warm climates.
Now, when i turn the ignition, no diagnostic lights turn on inside. I can only get it to do a warning audio beep on the first section turn of the ignition (warning that door is open). Electrical door locking makes a trying sound but no action. The headlights turn on when i flash the high beams.
This is a very tough problem because it's electrical. This car has had no mechanical issues and I take care of it, even driving no more than 65mph and avoiding day driving (due to heat). What could it possibly be? I have never even imagined a problem like this.
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1997 F150 4x4 4.6. Truck was running fine ...suddenly shut down & now no spark, no fuel pump run, no start
1. Shot ether -no start
2. pulled plug - no spark
3. Checked crank sensor - reading .5 - .6
4. Checked fuel inertia switch - seems good
5. Switched fuel relays - no change
Thinking ECM/PCM. Also.. ?? will the "no spark" condition create a "no fuel pump run" condition ? or visa versa? I'm not positive about the reading from the crank sensor... it stays solid at .5... should it move up & down or remain constant ?
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I am using a Hyundai Santa Fe (Petrol, 2011 Model) here in Saudi Arabia. On July 17 (11:30 pm), I was driving in a highway at about 80-90 kms/hr when suddenly my vehicle lost power (steering wheel, brake, etc).
Baed on the diagnosis of our company mechanic, it was an alternator problem. He said the alternator bearing got stuck up.
Prior to this incident, on July 7, the same vehicle got stalled twice while it's parked. In the first case, I was able to use it after jumpstarting. In the second case in the same day (4 hours after the first case), jump starting didn't work so they have to replace it with a temporary used battery. I noticed that I had a hard start (the engine responds only after 3-4 key ignition). After replacing the battery with new one, I was able to drive normally from July 9 to Jul 17, and then the incident happened as I described in the first paragraph.
Question: Is there a way to detect the alternator bearing problem before it actually breaks down? If there is, what procedure or predictive test is normally followed to identify potential problems in an alternator?
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2003 Toyota Matrix w/126,000 miles on it. Manual transmission just died suddenly while on the highway. I hear that this is common. This is not my first manual tranny, and car has been treated well. Web check & call to Toyota toll-free number reveal no recall. Toyota denies any knowledge of such a problem. They foisted me off, "Contact a local dealer for assistance." I await an estimate from a transmission shop. No longer trust Toyota. Will a rebuild solve this? Or should I seek new tranny? Are replacements any better? Or do they still use same lousy bearings/parts that made the original fail? Besides a new clutch, is there anything else one should repair/replace while car is taken apart? About how much should this cost, at most? Car is otherwise OK, do I repair & hope for another 75k miles, or do I junk the car? A friend suggests a 6-speed tranny.
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2 years ago I had the transmission and clutch replaced on my 2002 Echo. it has driven fine since then but three days ago we were on the highway and the clutch suddenly disengaged..I don't know if that's the right terminology but it was as if I had pushed the clutch in (I hadn't) and the engine was just revving but not accelerating...I tried all the gears with the same result...eventually my car slowed to a stop.
A day later I had it towed to the mechanic...when he drove it it was fine, and did not exhibit the problem at all. He checked out the clutch and said it looked fine, and said my description of the problem made it sound as if the clutch had overheated....but he said that usually happens with city driving, not on the highway. So he is stumped..the car seems to be fine now, though I haven't had it out on the highway yet.
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