Saab - 9-3 :: 2008 - Knocking In Steering Wheel
Dec 12, 2015
Recently purchased this SAAB with 50,000 miles. Can feel a knocking in the steering wheel. The knocks transmitted through the steering column do not seem to be related to the suspension nor conditions of the road surface (irregularities, pot holes, etc.). The dealer (Volvo and SAAB) -- highly recommended -- replaced the left and right front stabilizer links/bushings and the right hydraulic transmission mount. This has reduced the incidence of the knocking, but not eliminated it completely. Have yet to raise with the shop the knocking still continues. What was fixed to eliminate the knocking.
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Just recently purchased a used Toyota Camry , i love it. So far everything is great about it, only negative part is that i feel when i turn the steering wheel like a knocking sensation and you can also hear it. Its not the normal grinding sound other people are experiencing. It feels like theres something loose in the steering column. Also while I am driving i can hear like a thump on the right front suspension. normally this sound when i am going over bumbs. Is this like the shocks or something?
Just in case i have a 2008 Toyota Camry SE.
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I have a 2004 Saab 9-3. Currently the Battery Warning Light has come on. It came on while the car was being driven. The car's performance seemed to suffer and it was hard to turn the steering wheel. We were about two miles away from home and we somehow managed to get home but we simply couldn't get the car to turn on to our driveway because of loss of power for steering.
We checked the Saab manual and it reads : Warning Charging - This light comes on together with 'triangle/exclamation' light if the battery is not charging. If it comes on while you are driving, stop the car as soon as possible and switch off the engine.Check the alternator drive belt. If the belt has broken, the engine may overheat (cooling system will not function properly), the battery will not be charged, the A/C compressor will not run and power assistance for steering will be lost.
Our observation:- We experienced the a/c not working too well- We had problem with steering - It was almost as if the steering wheel was locked. It was extremely hard to turn. Is this an alternator belt or a battery issue? If so, how do we figure out?
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I've got a 2008 Saab 93 TurboX AWD, 6sp manual. It's got about 40k miles and I just had my front right wheel bearing replaced in November. The clunking sound started probably 2 months ago and it started off very subtle but has now progressed to being audible even over the radio. It occurs typically at any speed and is independent of RPM and/or braking. I can feel it slightly in the steering wheel but nothing significant. It sounds like a low clunking/flapping and occurs during deceleration as well. I hear it particularly in the front center to front right of the car. It kind of sounds like a golf ball rolling around in a cardboard box if you can imagine that.
I've had a Saab specialist look at it and they've tightened the suspension and inspected for loose parts in the engine compartment as well as the wheel wells and springs were all in good condition.
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Recently on my gen 6 with about 68k miles I have noticed a very pronounce noise when turning the steering wheel whether the car is stationary or in motion. It makes a loud creaking/popping noise and it cant be heard from outside the car. The noise happens no matter which way I turn the steering wheel. I know Toyota has had problems with their intermediate steering shafts.
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I have a 2009 Nissan Murano. I have owned the car for two years now and have been plagued by this issue since I have aquired the car. When I am driving along, anytime I encounter an uneven part of the road at 40-50mph I feel a clunking/knocking in the steering wheel and the gas pedal. This knocking is felt even if the road is smooth. Anytime the front end is responding to the road ( I.E. sunken catch basin) I feel this knock/clunking. This issue gets much worse in cold weather and is much better when it warms up. Since finding this issue, I have had the tires rotated, balanced, I have had a 4 wheel alignment done as well. I have also had the shocks and bushings checked from the dealer. I drive almost 100 miles a day for work and this has me at my wits end with this car.
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Vehicle: 2013 Hyundai GLS @ 36k miles.
When my vehicle is stopped or in motion at low speed, if I turn the steering wheel, I hear a knocking out at the sound towards the front of the vehicle. How concern should I be?
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I have a 2002 Ranger 2.3L 5spd w/ 16,000 miles. Have noticed this problem for 6 months, been to dealer 3 times now. They say nothing is wrong. What I am "feeling" more than hearing, is a slight knock in the steering wheel, particularly when driving over dips and mild to moderate bumps. This is usually when moving in a fairly straight line, not much tension on the wheel.
It reminds me of problems I had on much older cars/trucks when there was a loose shock/strut or play in a ball joint or tie rod. It is annoying because it feels like something is wrong. Dealer can't find anything. Perhaps something not installed properly that loosens and bumps/knocks into other components thereby transferring vibrations through the steering column?
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I have a '97 Saab 900 SE turbo. When it made a new rhythmic knocking noise under the hood I brought it to a few mechanics and here's what they found: the alternator's bearings are loose (that was likely the source of the noise) and it also needs the tensioner assembly (it's vibrating visibly) and idler pulley replaced. The battery was also bad, with a 17.6 meter reading (handheld meter). The battery was still under full warranty and my mechanic said it probably had one, maybe two dead cells. Never had a problem starting or running.
My question is this: how likely is it that the bad battery caused the alternator/tensioner/idler problems?
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Car is in for knocking sound made when you are stopped and you turn the wheel quick from left to right. Also does the same thing when you hit a bump. Dealer is saying it was always that way I say bs. 2008 prius.
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I notice that when I jerk the steering wheel left and right fast (1-2 inches) I hear small knocking sound. Seems to have narrowed it down to the right side steering rack inside the booth.
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I have a 2007 elantra. I drove it for a while, then my ma needed a car (her tercel was a little unsafe) so I traded her. She loves the car, but as sometimes is the case, her dealer is not very nice. She has a severe side to side knocking noise in the steering- can be easily duplicated by sitting with the car idling and turning the wheel back and forth, even a little. Doesn't correspond with driving over bumps unless the wheel is inadvertently turned by the bump. If the suspension is unloaded (front wheels off the ground), noise disappears. No EPS lights, no codes in any system.
Listened with a stethoscope inside the car- not that loud through column within car. Inner and outer tie rods are tight, noise is not heard loudly with stethoscope through struts, upper mounts, lower arms. Under the car with loaded suspension (rhino ramps), noise is deafening in the rack, with a stethoscope. Dealer told her it needs a steering rack, I definitely understand why they would say that as the noise is clearly audible through the aluminum housing directly below the entrance of the column shaft into the rack. Only TSB I found was for a worm shaft flexible coupling, but the TSB says this is bump related.
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I have a 2010 Santa Fe V6 2WD. When I rock my steering wheel back and forth, I hear a knocking sound when engine is off. Sounds like maybe the steering gear box has play in it.
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I have a 04 stx f-150 4x4, had the front springs changed, shocks and struts! now when I am driving at either 43mph or 53 mph, I get vibration in steering wheel.....
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I have had some play in the steering wheel of my '04 F150 screw 4x4 for a long time. Today, I replaced the outer tie rod ends in order to get rid of a squeak. While I was down there, I tried to move the inner tie rods in and out and didn't detected any movement so I figured they were still good.
Now that the new outer tie rods are in place, my squeak is much better but I am still noticing play in the steering wheel. Assuming that I checked the inner tie rods correctly and that they are indeed ok, and assuming my new outer tie rod ends are good, why would I have any play at all in the steering wheel?
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I just bought my first car, a 2000 saab 9-3 convertible (base model) a month or so ago. The car had been neglected for the last year or so and I have been spending the last few weeks fixing all its issues. This last weekend I replaced the rear shocks, font struts and the rotors and brake pads on all four wheels. After driving about 20 miles or so I started to notice a squeak coming from the front right wheel well and since has become more and more noticeable/pronounced.
Squeak description:-cyclically increases and decreases in volume with each rotation of the wheel
-the squeak is constant: squeak that gets louder at a certain point in each wheel rotation but is always a certain baseline volume as long as the wheel is turning
-the volume of the squeak is NOT AT ALL effected by braking (EXACT same noise driving as while braking) which leads me to think its has nothing to do with the pads or rotors
-HERE IS THE WEIRD ONE: the squeak disappears completely when driving in reverse!
-the squeak is about the pitch and sound of a cricket, only constant and Ii guess louder.
-the noise is unaffected by turning sharply to the right and left.
Additional details:- I had to use a gear puller to press the axle out of the wheel bearing (was stuck from rust). I hooked to the back of the wheel bearing ( what the lug nuts screw into ) and pressed on the center of the axle. Maybe this could have damaged it or the cv joint?-while I was switching that wheel's strut insert out, the carrier bearing leaked 1 (maybe 1 and a half) teaspoons of grey oil from the larger end of its boot and stretched out an inch or so from the weight of the hanging axle.
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I have a weird question about the nice gti steering wheel. I noticed it some times ago on my old 2008 rabbit too and didnt really cared much when I saw that on the steering wheel of the 2010 gti. Did you noticed that the SW angle isnt good from a top view, I means, when u look at it carefully, did you noticed that the SW is more prononced to the right side, it easier to notice it when u look from a top perspective view of the SW. When u use 2-hands on the SW, u can notice that your left-hand is closer of you that the right-hand. Why Volks designed it like that way?
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Is there a button, function etc that will allow me to disable the telescopic steering wheel tilt-away feature ? I would rather not have the steering wheel move every time I insert/remove the key. LX570 2014 ..
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I just bought a 2008 Sonata GLS 2.4L, 4-cyl., automatic, 74000 miles.
I found that the steering wheel, sometimes the seat, vibrates at idle in "D" and "R". And the vibration reduces a lot in "N".
Is this common for this model? If it's not common, how to repair this problem?
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I have the below multi-function steering wheel installed on my 2008 Passat. The steering wheel came out of a 2010 CC and the buttons do not currently work.
Which steering wheel control module would I need and what is the price on that?
Besides the steering wheel control module and programming via VCDS/VAGCOM, do I need anything else for this to work?
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So my wife's '08 Passat (2.0T Sedan) started making this weird clunking type of sound when you move the steering wheel. It can be parked or moving and it sounds. It is not speed related it sounds like the steering is crapping out. I'm dropping the car at the dealer on saturday ....
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