I am looking for a honest, (if there is any such thing) mechanic to keep my 2002 Saab 9-3 running. I am currently experiencing a loud noise while the car is idling. This is my only means of transportation and I cannot afford a car payment at this.
View 19 RepliesI recently bought a manual 92 saab, and in the past few days I have been having trouble with the 5th gear. The fluids are all fine and I have not put any real strain on the trans since I've had the car. It worked fine when I bought it but now when I try to put it in 5th there is a loud grinding noise as I let the clutch out. The shifter then pops back into neutral. I tried holding the shifter in 5th to see if that would work, and as I release the clutch the grinding noise gets louder and the gear does not engage at all. I am really hoping it is just a worn down part, and doesn't need a complete transmission overhaul.
View 6 RepliesI have a 2006 Saab 9-3 Aero that I bought back in August. Two weeks ago, I brought car into the dealership for a 90k road service. It had some idling issues (sometimes, upon starting it up (cold or not), the car would idle and sputter, but never actually die. During the tune up, they said there was a frayed cable, which they replaced.
Fast forward 1.5 weeks later. The check engine light has come on. And the car is now sometimes idling funny just as it was before, only now it actually sputters and actually dies sometimes upon start up. After it initially dies, if I start it up again, it runs fine up on the second start.
Took into the dealership this morning and after 2 hours of diagnosis, they say the check engine read-out is indicating the fuel pump pressure sensor is going out, and that's what's causing it to idle and stall. Is this diagnosis legit?
2005 Saab 9-5 ARC 2.3T67,000 Miles
Noticed a problem 2 weeks ago with my little Swedish meatball while at a red light on the way home. While idling, the car just shut off. I'm assuming it was a stall, but the car did not sputter and it was idling at around 900-1k RPMs but then just cut out. I put the car in park, and it started right up without issue and I drove the rest of the way home with it running fine. A couple days later, the same exact thing happened.
I took it in to my local Saab shop for a radiator hose replacement and an oil change. I told him about the stall/cut out problem, so he hooked up the Tech II but could not find any trouble codes. So he did a software update to the computer and told me to monitor it and call him if it happens again.
After getting my car back, it ran fine for a few days. I tried to get it to stall again by just letting it run in idle for 10-15 minutes but it wouldn't cut out. One night, I went to the gym for about an hour and came out and my car started right up and I drove about 5 minutes and came to a light. Car cut out again. However this time, it did not start up again. The engine would crank, the computer would go through the checks and give me the Check OK but it just wouldn't turn over. I tried to start it 5 or 6 times but no luck. I got out and pushed it to the side of the road. After about 2 minutes for sitting there, I tried it again and it turned over. Started right up like nothing ever happened.
The car drove again fine for a few days and then yesterday it cut out again. Same thing. Car would crank but not turn over. I let it sit there for 2 minutes (as traffic was going around me at a red light ) and then tried it again. The engine turned over but it did not start up fine. It definitely stuttered as it was trying to start and I had to give it some gas to get it running smoothly.
Couple of observations: This has only happened while idling (in Park or Drive)This has only happened when the car was warm. I've never had an issue starting in the morning or before the car warms upThis appears to only occur when it has been warm outside. (We've had a few days in the 60s here in PA)The Check Engine Light has never come on. So no trouble codes have ever been logged.
I've been searching the forums and most people seem to recommend replacing the Crank Position Sensor (my mechanic wants to do this as well). However from what I understand, if it was the CPS the car wouldn't stutter like it did when starting after a stall and wouldn't the CPS cut off the engine while driving as well?
Car was idling and driving real rough and dying at stops. Turns out that the transmission mount was torn so I replaced it and verified that the other two motor mounts were good. Car was still running rough but on a drive with some jerky shifts (automatic) after about 20 miles all is well and I'm running as smooth as a baby's bottom with great turbo action. Cars just don't fix themselves. What could have been wrong? By the way there were no codes from the Tech ll. Using a pc of tubing I can't hear any vacuum leaks nor when spraying brake cleaner on the hose ends does the engine race.
View 3 RepliesI am having a problem with my 2006 Saab 9-3 Aero Combi Wagon w/130k miles. When idling, driving up hills, and accelerating to pass, the engine seems to miss multiple cylinders. I've had all spark plugs replaced within the last year, and all the cylinder coils were checked after bringing the car in for this problem (one was replaced). I took the car in yesterday to address this problem and the mechanic stated that he didn't know what to do. The check engine light is on, and the mechanic told me that the readout states that their might have been a problem with the gas cap, but they checked it out and it looked sound. Could this be a fuel pressure problem? spark plug wires?
View 5 RepliesWhen I leave my car running, i hear that it has extremely loud engine noise. Nothing dangerous or weird but just Loud idling. It's at 900 RMP. What causes it and how can I achieve a nice pleasant sound ..
View 3 RepliesSo my wife's Tig has been acting a little goofy lately since it got cold out. The RPM's are almost always around 1,000 & the dealer says that it's set for 920 from the factory. In warmer weather, it idles at 800 RPM (like on my Tig).
Which is odd right there, but something they can't change they say. Anyways....so when it's idling high, when it's cold outside, there is a loud moaning/howling noise from the passenger side engine/dash area.
It only happens with your foot on the brake & in drive while idling. If you drop it to neutral, it doesn't do it. Only in Drive. So needless to say, you hear it at every stop light.
It's pretty intrusive and can't be missed. Even my wife, who is oblivious to such things, mentioned it to me. So I took it to the dealer and they clearly heard the noise too. A week later and no updates until yesterday.....He says that all their FWD Tiguans (auto trans) make the same noise. Only the 4motion doesn't. So they're just saying "they all do it," so it's normal.
I have a 2002 Saab 9-5 sedan with a manual 5-speed transmission. It runs like a champ until recently. I've been having a lot of difficulty shifting into reverse. I've taken off the gaitor and looked down into the shifter to make sure everything is ok - looking for broken plastic, etc. Nothing out of the ordinary. Clutch fluid is full. It all of a sudden started doing this. The car shifts through all 5 forward gears with no issues. I can eventually get it into reverse if I'm patient enought and other times it goes right in with out issue. Any clues? A saab dealer says its the transmission, but I'm not so sure.
View 4 RepliesI Have a 2002 Trailblazer and when i turn on the rear A/C there is a loud clicking sound coming from the back of the truck. It is on the passenger side up by the interior light in the third row. If i turn off the Rear A/C or turn the knob and have both the overhead and the feet blow out it does not click.
View 3 RepliesIrritating lifter noise that is pretty loud when I cold start there engine in the morning. Have had the roadster for about 6 months and it has 122,000 miles.
I did not use the car for 2 months while I was away.
I recently purchased new tires and rims for my Mazda 626 thinking it would get rid ot the loud tire noise (2 rims were bent). However, the noise still exists. I cannot seem top pin point the source of the noise but, it increases with speed.
View 5 RepliesI have a 2002 Passat Auto 1.8T, and everytime I slow down I have this loud creaking, or popping noise. It usually happens when the car is slowing down, or when I'm first starting off from a red light, stop sign, etc. It's annoying as hell! I searched the forums, and no one had this exact problem.
View 4 Replies2002 hyundai santa fe GL2 4 Cyl Automatic ... I noticed that there is a super heavy motorcycle-ish loud noise from my engine when I put it in drive. When it's idle or in reverse or neutral the problem does not occur. but then when I switch it to drive, uber loud noise...which gets louder when I step on the gas.
What has been done so far - replaced spark plugs, ignition coils and plug wires so far...also changed the oil, no fix.
No check engine light at all.....however the battery did die due to someone leaving a light on for days So I am unable to get any code readings.
So the last week and a half my car has been making a loud noise that sounds like a loud POK when my car accelerates or slows down. I am worried that there is a loose bolt somewhere and that the noise is caused by something shifting under the forces being applied to the wheels.
View 9 RepliesI bought an 02 Elantra last August with 128,000 miles on it. The front tires make a noise at almost any speed that reminds me of a 4X4 with mud tires going down a highway. I have replaced the axles, front struts, outer tie rod ends and one irregular rim, and I will replace the rear struts this weekend. Varying the tire inflation has no effect on the noise. When I got it aligned, the mechanic told me they had to swap the front tires to get the alignment within spec, and the uneven wear should cancel out. That was 3,000 miles ago and the noise level hasn't changed. The front tires still have 5/16 of tread on them. Should I keep waiting it out, get new tires, look for some other cause, see if there's a hole in the firewall I can soundproof, or what?
View 2 RepliesMy son has a 2002 Honda Civic, 4 cyl, manual trans, front wheel drive, 110K mi. There is a random extremely loud thud-like noise coming from under the hood that sounds like someone hitting the car with a sledge hammer and can be felt in the steering wheel and in the gear shift knob. The thudding happens occasionally when first starting up the car but mostly starts happening after driving it after 10 minutes or so. The thudding occurs both while driving and when stopped (at stop lights for example.) The thudding doesn't increase in frequency with an increase in speed. The noise is so loud that it sounds like everything under the hood will fall out. On rare occasions it can be driven for 30 minutes or so around town without making any noise, most times however it will eventually start making noise. I've replaced the struts which were leaking but the noise still occurs. What could be the problem?
View 1 Replies2002 ford explorer 4x4 150k miles when i put it in reverse a loud clunk noise but when put in drive no clunk noise. But on highway when its shifts a very loud clunk and like a real hard shift !!!!!o/d light is flashing also .transmission shift solenoid ? rear ?
View 8 RepliesThere's a very loud jerky noise in my car whenever I turn the wheel. This happens when I turn it right or left and the noise gets louder and jerks more when I turn the wheel more. So, if I make just a small left hand turn the noise isn't too bad but it's there, but if I make a U-turn and have to really turn the wheel the car makes the noise and jerks. The noise is like a loud "ga-ga-ga" sound ..
View 5 RepliesI have a 2002 Volvo S40. I have recently noticed a very loud screeching noise while driving. It sounds like metal on metal, and it stops when I push the brakes. Any thoughts on what this might be? It sounds like it is coming from the front right tire. I also have heard rattling up there for a while (sounds like something is loose) but my mechanic was not able to find anything with this. I also have issues with my head lights. They go out about every other month and need to be replaced.
View 1 RepliesI am a Honda/Acura nerd. Decided to buy my friends 02 Celica that had piston slap from the famous oil consumption issue i learned about. Did a bunch of research and swapped in a Corolla motor. Everything seemed to go as normal, its in and running just fine. Only problem is now the power steering pump is making a very loud whining noise like its low on fluid.
Now first i must say the car ran, drove and turned just fine before the swap. No noises or issues aside from the piston slap. On the 1zzfe engine there is 2 bolts to remove the power steering pump and move it out of the way, easy enough.
My question is how did the power steering pump manage to get damaged? I've inspected under the car a bunch of times, inspected the top of the power steering pump, inspected everything i could looking for a problem. I just don't see any...no smashed hardlines, no leaks, has plenty of fluid, sensor is firmly plugged in. I notice when it is making the whining sound, the hardline that connects to the top of the pump is vibrating, which is what is making the sound i guess...if i crank the wheel all the way to the right or left it doesn't make the noise at all...